Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I want to run a t2500 or a saz2500 in my truck...what kind of electrical would i need to run either of these amps?

I'll be running a sundown 1200D and a sundown 100.4D to a Fi BL 12'' and a set of hertz HSK 165's Going in a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500. Big 3 will be done The battery that I have now is a Autocraft Silver.. It says on the top something like crank amps at 32 degrees is 935 The alternator that's on there is this: Think I'll be good, or should I get a yellowtop to put under the hood?

Hello I have an 86 Crown Vic with a currently fried stock 65 amp alt. I replaced the stock one with a stock replacement junkyard alt about three weeks ago. And it went out again yesterday. I plan on upgrading in the future but for now i plan on doing the big three when i have the chance, Im hoping that will help my alt last a little longer. Im running a kicker 300.1 now to 1 sub. In the future i want to upgrade my system. I was looking at this alt:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCI-N7755-11HO/ and was wondering if that alternator would be enough to support maybe 1000-1500 wrms? Thanks for the help.

I've never bought all the wires and stuff separately, I've only used those amp install kits. Im trying to figure out how much it will cost to wire up my amp and stuff. Orion 2500D. I'm going to need an alternator, I was thinkin a universal alternator... I can make brackets for it, we have welders and stuff and I can weld. Reason why is I have an engine coming sooner or later for the truck, and its a different engine than what is in it. So I'll just make a new bracket for the other engine. I want to run the secondary alt seperate than the existing charging system, and have it dedicated to 1-2 batteries and the amp will run off those batteries.. Not sure what batteries eit…

So I just purchased the Audioque AQ3500D amp and an Optima Yellow top for the front. I will be doing 2 runs of 1/0AWG wiring, a 300A Iraggi alt, and a second battery in the rear. I only want ONE battery for the trunk, and right now im torn between the Kinetik HC2400 and the XS Power D3100 (which im kinda leaning towards). Which of these batteries do you guys think I should run on this setup? Also, Im looking at the XS Power VCM. Will this electrical setup be sufficient? I want to be able to run this amp full tilt daily with little to no voltage drop. Thanx.

Well, my friend has recently been having issues with his electrical system. He currently has a red top and yellow top in the back. He reads around 14 volts up front but his battery in the rear (not isolated) reads at 12.5 volts?! The battery in the front and rear both read at 12.5 with car off. Any clue what could be causing this issue?

I was wondering if it was possible to wire my 4 ohm subwoofer to a bridged 4 ohm - just need a diagram on how to wire it. thanks in advance. I have a alpine type-r 12" 4 ohm (SWR-1242D) and a rockford fosgate P8002 amp - 800W @bridged 4 ohm -John

let me break it down for u what im currently running n what i want to. Pioneer hu 6950ub 1 15' kicker L7 in a 3.83 cft box tuned to 33 hz 1 Solid audio f2000 giving around 900rms to the sub a pair of 6*9 pioneer D series powered by Solid audio Ms42 auxil rca's Stinger 1/0 ground n power wires Stinger Distribution block n fuses 110 amp single 12.5v batt 80 amp alt (stock) In Honda civic 05 Big3 Daily driver. music preference: hip hop Now im planning to upgrade my system to a single Fi 18 BTL. i can manage 7 cft with ease. i also hav a brand new DDz1 amp to power it .. ill probably buy 2 stinger spv44s but the main question is that do i have to change my stock alterna…

Does this make sense? Am I looking at this right? What I would like to do it setup my starter battery to an aux battery... I can connect the 2 negative terminals from both batteries okay, is it safe? Also, would I then still have to ground the aux battery to chassis? is it just good to have an extra ground off the aux battery? Could the amps be connected to the negative terminals of the aux battery if I have both terminals from the 2 batteries connected? Help me make sense of this or tell me how to do this better... Didn't think this was advanced so I made a generic post... thanks guys or does this work better?

What upgrades are needed to run a Sundown 2k? Some people say HO alt and some don't. What do you all think? Going in a 2005 Cavalier. Not trying to buy a HO alt if I don't need to. Thanks

Hey guys, I finally found 2 amps that I'm trying to choose between for my 4 SA-10s. I am either going to purchase a used saz 2000 or the saz 3000. I was wondering what kind of electrical is needed to run power one of these 2 beasts. I currently have a DC HO Alt that Is 110/170 idle/max and a kinetik 1400 under the hood with a kinetik 600 in the rear. ( I will also have 0 awg ran from front to back and 0 awg big 3 ). I'm not sure what is needed to keep voltage up with the 2k or 3k? Should this be enough? I'm not sure what most people have these on, I saw a few people say they had stock 90 amp Alts with just 2 large batts so I wasnt sure! Thanks guys!

My truck currently has a stock 160amp alternator, and a yellow top under the hood...I'm doubting this will be enough to power a saz-3500d @ 1.33ohm and a sax-125.2. I'm not planning on running the system with the engine off for long periods of time... Any advice as far as what kind of performance I could expect (if any), or if my stock alternator would even work for this application?

So as of yesterday I now have a small amount of noise creeping in . Nothings changed . I have two batteries under the hood , both are grounded to the frame with 0 gauge. The alt body is grounded to one of the batteries. All the amps are grounded to a distribution block which is grounded to the frame ,and body . I'm going to check all the connections , but am I doing something wrong. I never had any noise before yesterday.

Ok so im anticipating the arrival of my SP4 18" and i figured i get everything sorted out for when it arrives... My car is currently running the big 3 with 0gauge wire, 2 1000ca batteries, and factory 120amp alt. The amp im using is a hifonics zeus 3216 (3200@1ohm) and will be temporary until i can get a better amp. Will my electrical be good enough? Do i need to upgrade alt for 3k watts? Or can i just upgrade to 2 xs d3100s? Also what amps would u suggest that could give the sp4 the power it needs to do its job? Ive looked into the crescendo 3.5, dc audio 3.5,and soundqubed 4.5, any other suggestions and recommendations? ?

I have a 110amp alternator and I hope to get a sundown 2500d amp. If I were to get http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/XS-Power-D6500-Battery.html would I get by? Im willing to get two of them if necessary. I have a 2011 Chevy Cruze and idk if there is any alternators on the market for this car. So would simply upgrading battery's allow me to run this amp fine?

Hello everyone I have a little problem. I just installed another kinetik hc 2400 in my 03 yukon. I am currently running 1 red top under the hood and 2 kinetik hc 1400 and 2 kinetik hc 2400. I'm pushing 2 18's tc sound ultra lms and a ia40. I am waiting for my second one to come. I charged the 5 month old 2400 and one of the 1400. After installing all the batteries and driving for 20 minutes my engine light came on. What's the problem. I tryed removing the connections for 5 mins to reset the computer, but that didn't work. Anyone know what I can do to fix this problem?

i added a yellow top in the rear today and did the big three. i wired the second batt in parallel + to + and - to - then ran my power to the amp off the rear positive. after i hooked everything up i noticed the the red batt light on the dash below the check engine like was glowing red and the emergency brake light stays on even when its off and these didn't do it before i installed everything... and on top of that my power steering when out (i know it doesnt have anything to do with the batts but just wanted to add that too...lol) any suggestions why the light would still be on?? Oh and my check engine light is on too but that was already on before i installed everyt…

I have a 99 3 door Z71. I've upgraded the big 3 to 1/0 ga. I've put 200 amp Iraggi alt. in. I've got 2 Kinetik 1800's in the back. My amps are a RF T600-4, T1000-1. My volt meter still jumps alot and my lights still dimm a little. I just bought the 2 kinetik's new about 3 weeks ago. I put those 2 back there because I was planning on upgrading sub amp and 2-12's. But if it can't keep up with what I have there's no need. Is there something I'm missing to do or what? I don't listen to stereo very often with truck off. I just don't understand what's going on.

Hey guys, i've been getting an anoying screeching coming from my component speakers and a deep rumble coming from my sub when ever the car is running, the noise gets louder as the RPM increases. Also when ever you change songs or turn the deck on/off there is a poping sound. I've had my system in for about 3 months now and this JUST started a few days ago. I didn't have this problem at all until now. I have My RCA's run away from the power wires, I also have both amps grounded to the same location. I tryed grounding the RCA's using some spare speaker wire, this gets rid of about 80% of the noise. My deck is a Kenwood KDC-X991 and my amps are a Sundown SAE-1000D and a Sund…

Am running 2 FI 15 inch Q's with BP power on an AQ 2000 watt amp in a 2000 dodge dakota. I upgraded to a high output alternator (230 max output, i had it tested), and i have already completed the big 3 with 1/0 gauge wire. I am presently using a 850 CCA battery in the hood and have no space for a battery inside the truck. I am currently experiencing diming and since am not interested in using a Cap, i was woundering if i took out that battery and replace it with a kinetik 2000 or 2400 watts battery, would that solve the problem? Thanks

ok so i have a 1997 cavalier and in it is 2 12 inch sundown audio sa-12's, 1 saz-1500D on 1 ohm, a box that is tuned to 28ish and has about 4.5 cubes including my port. I also have a kinetik hc800 hooked up to this system. I am using a Kenwood eXcelon kdc-x395 head unit with 4 gauge wire all around and no big 3 atm. My problem is that when i have this system turned up past 30 (max is 35) on certain songs my deck will shut off and it turns my subs off too, and seems to reboot it self and then resumes playing, and i have no idea why. i dont have the volume maxed either i never go above 33 unless the songs arent very bassy, like with eminem and some other rappers with light …

i noticed that when i turn my system up (1 kicker oldschool zr240 and 1 solo x 10) that the amp will give the sub a good amout of power for about 10 seconds then will lose id say a quarter of the power it had and stay that way. could this be becasue my alternator is not giving the amp a steady voltage??? i have all stock electrical right now with 4 gauge wire and the big 3 done. what do you all think?

I have a 1998 s10 ext. I have a small amp in the back that goes to my mids, but for some reason after I listen to the radio for five minutes or less it completly kills my battery down to the point where my truck will not start so I have to get a jump. It only happens when I turn on my stereo. I had the battery and alternator tested and their fine. Any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Ok guys, I'm befuddled, so I'm hoping someone here can enlighten me. (without flaming me too much) I am in the market for a simple headunit. I am currently rebuilding my system and have plenty understanding of what I need and how to install it. What I am looking for, is a couple of technical fill-ins, to add the WHY to my WHAT & HOW. My system now has god-awful alt noise. I inherited it, so I just learned to turn the HU volume waaay down, and my aux input volume waaaay up, which sorta solved the problem lol. I refuse to go through a painstaking install to encounter this same problem, so I'm investing in an EQ to boost my input signal voltage (I think? I could look lik…

I will be running a memphis 16-2000d on a old style 18" btl. I also will be running a 400 watt kicker amp for 2 CDT component systems. I have a 200 amp alternator and i just ran into a deal for two D34 red top optima batteries. Will one red top in the front and one in the back be enough to support my system? All will be going in a 1996 gmc suburban. I know yellow tops or kinetiks will probably be better, if the red tops wont be good enough anybody know were i can get a deal on something better?