Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

With a pretty significant build on the horizon now steering towards higher end equipment, i still am not ready to part with my factory head unit unless it becomes an absolute must. I prefer the OE look and like the fact that my navi and bluetooth are integrated in the setup now, although i know that with a little tweaking i could likely make them work with something different, if needs be. On the G35 w/ the Bose system, all the processing is done at the actual factory amp. The leads running from the factory receiver are low level already and many people prefer the results with the RCA cables spliced/soldered into those leads over using an LOC. I myself initially had used…

just sold my jl audio hd amps. right now i am running some old school soundstream stuff untill i settle on some new amps. should i go with the old school linear power or the new zed audio? looking for the ""SQL"" set up i run 12w7's,jl audio c5 comps up front and and jl audio c2 comps for rear fill. should i stay with old school stuff or go with the new class d stuff again.

we jsut picked up a coustic h/u at the shop..it's double din, has a built in 5" touch screen, dvd player, top load....has anyone here used or seen used coustic h/u? scott is hinting around at me putting it in place of my eclipse. it retails around $600 (which i won't be paying,lol), but that's kinda what scares me....you know, you get what you pay for? let me know if anyone knows anything, i'm going to talk to him about it later today. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Hi all, I'm in the market for a new amplifier, I'd like to see something that will do 2-2500 rms and prefer something that will run @ .5 ohm. I've ran American bass VFL's in the past and have had good luck with them. Does anyone have any suggestions otherwise? I'd like to keep it around the 4-500 dollar mark.

Has anyone used the TRYSTAR Flexible Welding Cable in any of your installs? If so is it a good wire?

This was all caused by a loose connection. I had a shunt in between the battery and the amp so I could watch the current draw at all times. The connection on the amp side of the shunt got a little loose, and well it pretty much melted the wire into one big strand. I didn't shoot a picture of the connection, but you could tell it got hot. I know that the piece looks like Solder, but I assure you 110% it was CCA KNU wire. This time I'll tighten it up a little more And I cut another 3/4 inch further, I don't know what temperature it got to, but it made it to whatever temperature turns a copper ring terminal black with green and white corrosion.

i plan on buying a sundown 2000D mono amplifier .. they will be powering 2 12 inch FI BLs and at 1 ohm. i have a stock alternator and battery and i wanna know how i should go about this. i know caps are bogus ive read the forums so i was thinking about replacing the stock battery with a kinetic one. would this be enough or would i need more ? i strained the alternator on my last car to the point were i cudnt start the car anymore i deffinitly dont want that happening again. all help is apreciated

Just wondering if anybody knows anything about the Rockford Fosgate RF-BLD. it says install it as close to the source unit as possible, why is that? Why can't it go in the trunk by the amp?

Pulled the power from my previous car to re-use in my new car. Noticed a little bit of discoloration from where it was ran through the fender. Does this look ok to use? Untitled by riored4v, on Flickr

so i am going to get this out the way right now, if you don't have anything constructive to add please don't post. looking for serious feedback here. i am just curious and have an itch to know, so i am sorry if this seems like a stupid question to you guys. ok so i have a pretty decent handle on car audio, been in and around the scene for years, but most of my expertise in in other forms of electronics, now my room mate and i just got done installing a killer system in a friends cadillac, and we only have 1 possibly 2 depends on how messed up the other one is of the bass knobs we need. they are for 3 older series RF bd1000's. any way my question is what stops me from usin…

Hey, i just got this amp. What are your feelings ? I am going to use it to power my subs. I already have a RF P400 powering my PG rsd 6.5 comps.

Hey All, I was just wondering what electrical necessities I would need. I have a 99 Honda Accord Sedan. Right now I have stock alt, Kinetik HC1800 up front and 0/1 guage wiring for my sundown 100.4. That is all currently hooked up. I was planning on hooking up my next amplifier which would be the Sundown 1500d with either a 12 or 15 FI BL. I think I am leaning towards a 12 because of space issues in the trunk. Anyways what other electrical upgrades do I need? Would I need a second battery in the rear? Would i need a new high output alternator? Or is this even necessary? Thanks for all the help

So I've been looking online for answers to my dull sense of fully understanding these questions. I have an alpine cde149bt, that I am just not fully comprehending. I have read up and down and searched forums to some avail, but not fully. Im hoping you gurus can help to clarify some things. Now, I have xover settings, with f/r hpf, lpf, frequency and slope. Now I understand these all fairly well, but on this, where I have gotten confused is: does the front hpf control highs, and rear hpf control mids? Or is it as it sounds, front does front, rear does rears? Next is, by setting frequency, slope and levels on xover, how much of an affect does it cause within bands of parame…

As with being located in Australia it's not that easy to get a big alternator cause most of the auto sparkys are f*#%wits... I asked him would I be able to run a SK-1500.1 and a SK-85.4 of my car and he said "yeah mate.. You could run them off the stock batt" I face palmed it so I put it to you people.... My car came from factory with a 100 amp alternator and it has I think 2 awg wire to the batt... I've already put an xs power d3400 in Would I be able to run these 2 amps how it is now and if not let me know what mods I need to do so I can have a piece of mind and not constantly worried ill be on low voltage Cheers mate

when tuning an amp without the bass boost on you tune it right before the amp starts to clip ... so if you increase the bass boost wont it make the amp clip or am i missing something?

Can someone please help me with my radio. I put my sundown amp to it, and my radio started to fry!! now theirs no output from my speaker wires from behind radio. (I disconnected amp, and rewired back regular). I tested all wires, and it seems that one speaker output does in fact give a little static. Im guessing I fired the outputs in the radio. Can anyone help me fix this problemo

Fi Q 15 Cadence zrs 7000d at 1 ohm, specs below: 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 500 Watts @ 13.8 Volts 2 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 900 Watts @ 13.8 Volts 1 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 1300 Watts @ 13.8 Volts IHF-2002 Peak Power: 1 x 2600 Watts Max @ 1 ohm Two Z7000D bridged together - 1x 2600 Watts RMS @ 2 ohm Frequency Response: 10Hz - 400Hz S/N Ratio: >100 db Damping Factor: 100 @ 100Hz Minimum THD: <0.03% Input Voltage: 200 mV - 8 Volts Dimensions: 12.6" x 9.4" x 2.4" Stock alternator (150amp) and battery I had this system setup with no big-3 and stock alt and battery for about a month before the battery started showing white corrosion on the terminals as if it were over heating…

I am buying 2 of either amp and I wanted to know whether anybody has had a positive experience with either of these amps.

i just ordered the new fosgate t1500x1 and was wondering if anyone could tell me what the birth sheet says for the total output?

ive seen people around here with them. where did you get yours and could you estimate a price? i have found some for $370 and $380. just wondering if there were any cheapers ones out there withought sacrificing quality. Thank you, Matt Cusack

Whats a good amp that puts out about 1000RMS on 2 ohm for a cheap price thnx for the help! stupid budget

I am going to start installing my system next week and I am going to add a 2400 amp kinetik battery in the cab of my truck. I have seen some people say that all I need to do to hook up the 2 batteries is run 0 gauge wire with a fuse connecting them. But I have also seen people say when you run 2 batteries you need to wire in a relay or isolator between the 2 batteries. What do most of you run? Specs: Stock Alt. Optima Red Top for the started battery 2400 amp kinetik battery 0 gauge wire Audioque 2200 watt amp 2 Fi Q15's Kenwood 140 4ch. amp -Alex

ok so i finally get my SeXXX in the mail, haha so i got me alil box ready so i hook it up, want to hear it better so i take a drive and crank it up a bit, as i'm increasing the power click, it cuts off, so i go check it out and all 3 fuses are blown...so i check my connections it's all good, i go back to my amp open it up, and the piece that holds the fuses in parallel i believe one of the pieces was off so it was all running through one piece instead of being regulated between 2 pieces... I paid 120 bux for the car audio people to fix this and now what it breaks a month later, and i haven'ty even had any subs to play it with for a while anyways...i would go back up ther…

I just came across this company- Titanium Power They manufacturer amps that seem pretty intense but nobody sells them... Odd isn't it... Anyways, i'm trying to find out if i ever found a company that sells them... if they are any good... I ask because i like the TM8800.1D 8,800w @ 1ohm.

So in my next build I'm going to be running around 3500 watts probably a bc3500. For my current electrical setup i have a dc 270xp alt the big 3 and a d5100r in the front. Voltage @ idle is 15.2v. If i run 2 runs of ofc 0ga to a deka 9a31 in the back then one 2ft run of 0ga from the batt to amp is it going to be enough to to keep me above 13v for the most part or will i need a second 9a31 in the back. I plan on getting a second one later on anyway but would it be necessary? Thanks.