Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

My headunit is the alpine cde-102 and I got the alpine kce-433iv (full speed connection cable made specifically for my hu). Hooked the cable up to the rear pigtail connection, flipped through all the sources on HU and it shows nothing. If I set it to Aux, I can play music from the ipod but can't control ipod from headunit. So it's acting as a normal 3.5mm jack aux cable... I tried switching settings from Aux input ON to OFF and that only enabled/disabled the music from ipod, but still no headunit controls. My ipod is a touch 2g, I've also tried a ipod nano 2g, and no avail. Anyone have a similar problem or solution? Perhaps my cable is crap, but it seems odd for a new cab…

So is there any way i could hook up something so it would be like running 2 4 ohm subs at 2 ohms? I have a single 4 ohm sub and i was wondering if you could put something with it to be able to change the resistance.. Like idek what a resistor really is but it kinda sounds about right... This is probably impossible but i wanted to ask before i recone my sub to single 2 ohm for a third of what i bought it for.. Thanks for any help. This post is really just my imagination at work... So dont criticize too hard... Just a thought

i read what i could find on what makes an amp what class but nothing on how each performs. why i'm wondering is i'm considering using an ab amp bridged for my sub. i'm trying for what i would imagine is described as LSQ.

I'm wanting a kenwood or pioneer head unit for my truck (currently all stock), its a 2004 chevy ext. cab. I want bluetooth, am/fm, hd is a bonus, cd player, and other nice creature comforts. I really like the double din units, but I don't like the price, and I'm not opposed to singles. I'm willing to spend up to $350 (not if its a single), but I just don't know what is best option at that price...and yes I know it is personal preference. I would prefer to buy new so their is a warranty, but not totally against refurbished/used. Has anyone used refurbished HU's, what brand, where did you get it, how did it function? Also, can anyone direct me to a good site that does…

was installing my new to me sundown sae1200v1 i waned to set the gains with a dmm ..went to tighten down the screws and the dam bit fell out and arched the terminals it sparked everything shut off ..then came back on speakers make a weird hissing sound sub did work so i swapped the speaker amp for another hissing stopped but now the sub works then it dont not getting any reading with a dmm on the rca's

Ok here is the deal, I have a 08zx750.1 mono kicker amp & unfortunately I sent it out to kicker because I was having problems with my amp cutting off and on, when I turned up my music @ high volume. so kicker repair center diagnosed it and told me that the pcb board was cracked so he gave me a deal of 2010 ZX 750.1 Brand New with 2 year manufacturer warranty for the price of $209.00 or to return my original amp back to me. I was wanting your in-put whether I should get that deal for that brand new 2010 Amp for $209.00 or should I just invest my money on another amp? The set up I have is a 12' inch L7 Kicker dvc 4ohm & I will not be upgrading to add more subwoofers…

why was i told that the 4 gauge wire that i am using for my sub is not only overkill but bad for it due to too much resistance? I have not heard of this theory before, is there something that would support this train of thought? thanks chop

Looking for an amp that is at least 750watts rms for a kicker L7. What brand is better Hifonics or Soundstream? The amps that i am looking at from the 2 company's SOUNDSTREAM PCA2.760 2 CHANNEL 760 WATT AMPLIFIER NEW AND HIFONICS TXi7506 750W MONO AMPLIFIER AMP TITAN TXi 7506

Have mb quart component speakers (front stage) w/ external crossovers. My head unit powered these front speakers. Standard install, the speaker wire from my crossovers were spliced into my harness. i clipped the speaker wire. For testing purposes only i spliced more speaker wire to run back to my amp. I put the right speaker in the right channel and the left etc. Pulled out my head unit, and setup my rca's and ran them to the amp. Tested both sets of rca's in teh back of my head unit and no workie. Power and ground was simple, I already had a distro block and T connector for my ground. I daisey chained the remote turn on from my sub amp to the eclipse 2 channel. …

HU = Alpine 9885 Amp1 (top) = Soundstream 2 Ch 550 Watt Amplifier TRX 2.550 Amp2 (bottom) = Soundstream 1500 Watt Monoblock Class D Amplifier TRX1500D Speakers (front) = CDT Components 6.5 Speakers (rear) = CDT coaxial 6x9 This is weird, last year I had the same problem but I didn't have the extra battery in the trunk and grounded directly to the sheetmetal. I figured the amp was to blame after some troubleshooting, I RMA'd it. This year I added the battery, using the replacement amp which is the same one and the speakers STILL pop during shutdown. Top amp. Picture of setup. http://b34tbox.googlepages.com/IMG_2964.jpg Here's a video of the problem. The speakers pop when t…

okay i had my mind set on getting these amps 2 of them. after hearing my friends 2010d powering 2 15" ssd's it sounds really really good. every "expert" i've talked to said those are the best amps for the buck right now and HIGHLY recommend them. and i've seen a 2010d power 8 12" AQ's for a long time (5 months) before it overheated/blew. i've always heard (a few years ago) that they have overheating problems. but then again i heard the 2010 models have a different circutiy. i'm really confused on this i do not have the money to spend on "testing" amps anymore and i'm tired of blowing money on low end equipment. so anyways i had my mind set on 2 bxi2610's for about a…

I would like to know about all the different RCA cables like 2 channel, 4 channel, and 6 channel What goes best with a Sundown Audio Monoblock Amp and one sub? I plan on buying a 2 gauge Tsunami Wiring kit and it only has the power, ground, and remote so I have to buy a RCA seperate and I want to make sure I don't buy the wrong one. Thanks!

Hey guys... It's me again... This time wondering if I should pick this one up... Can get the JL Audio 300/2 for about $175.. I would be using it for my front stage... I would also like to get some recommendations for the front stage.... I will be removing the rear deck speakers to make subwoofer sound easier to travel into the cabin... Should I pull the trigger or are there other options out there? I have 4 amps that interest me and are within a reasonable price range... I don't think I want to be that close to the $300 mark... So help me out again guys... I just threw a reference Soundstream in there, although I know its over my apparent budget...lol

The post jumps around a bit but I try to provide as much information as possible. The main issue I have is it seems as though my voltage drops more then it should. The alternator charges at 13.3 at idle and only kicks up to around 14.1 when I am going 30-35+mph. I do have a Singer 370 which is being shipped on Friday, not sure if its gonna fit yet but we will see haha. My voltage full tilt usually drops down slowly to 12.2 after about 20seconds of play and sits there, never seen it go under 12.1 which is good but I still think it should be higher. Even when on the highway going 70mph the voltage will drop from 14.1 to 12.3. Im running a Zed leviathan which is running a…

I have seen linked amplifiers, when connected both 1ohm by 1ohm make 2ohm. But is it possible to connect it parallel so both make 1x1=0.5ohm load at the end? Thanks.

Alright so i was fooling around with the options in my headunit and i found something thats called BBE. I looked it up and its a type of processor i think, anyways, i turned it on and everything sounded WAY better, not only louder, but crisper and the midbass also sounded alot better. The ONLY downside i see to this setting so far is that it shuts off at 22/35. Im speachless.

I love this amp, but there are two questions i have about it. I have it hooked up to a 15in dayton audio reference series RF 15", and this sub is 500w rms mind you, it is hooked up 4 ohms briged, for 2100w rms, and it just seems like it should have more power than it does. It gets really loud, and gets the sub warm if i let it, (only takes about 20-40secs full power, then it smells a little), but it just seems like that if it was doing rated power, the sub would just bottom out and blow in a matter of seconds, it is in too small of a box(about 2-3 cu ft, it needs 8-10 per sub, might be why it dont bottom out) do you guys think im getting full power out of this amp?? and i…

Does anyone have any experience with these amps? Are they reliable? I just bought the little 500.1 to try out in the sq oriented install. I bought it because its so versitile with its wiring options and I got it dirt cheap but I havent heard anything about its relliablity.

Hy, I want to upgrade my midbass amplifier (focal 165k2p) and I don`t know wich one is better for my set up (alpine 9835, focal k2p mid, hybrid L1 Pro tw). The Hybrids are moved by a small Zapco Z50S2. So: 1.JL 300/4V2 ~200+$ 2.Zapco Z150S2 My link My link2 ~150$ 3.Zapco 350 Driving Force: Stereo, 4 ohms: 2x100 Watts Stereo, 2 ohms: 2x175 Watts Bridged, 4 ohms: 1x350 Watts T.H.D. + Noise: <0.015% S/N Ratio: >95dB Slew Rate: >29V/uS Optically isolated MOSFET power supply Surface mount technology w/1% resistors, precision caps, and massive ground planes ~ 320$

Hi, I want to uppgrade my stock system. I need a pair of 6.5" component in front and 2 12" woofers in the rear. My ride is Renault Trafic van. Can someone advise what and which model of the RF family to buy. I believe I also need some amplifiers, capacitor and accessories to go with. Thank you very much

im gonna run dual alts, my stock one on the redtop for the starter battery, and then a 250a one im buying from kickinaudio for the system...i have 2 15" mt's and 2 orion d5000s. should i run stinger batts or svr? or what else is there? i was thinking the svr80-12's(maybe 2 of them?) or a stinger 2150? i want to get the most out of these amps. they will be running at 1 ohm for sure, possibly .5 ohm...idk yet. thanks, VJ.

Hi guys! Its been awhile since I have last been on here. So after many tests of swapping speakers/ crossovers, checking RCAs it comes down to my amp has an issue with the speaker outputs on the left side of the outputs only. The right side works completely fine after swapping speaker wires from left to right. There is sound, but its very fuzzy/dull and almost sounds blown. Can this easily be fixed maybe? Maybe from a member on here? The amp is an Orion 600 watt 2 Channel amp. The amp was maybe purchased in 2007/2008 brand new. Maybe just the age and daily wear and tear its time for a new one? Thanks guys!!

im so confused! so is a bass remote bad to use if you want ur subwoofer to be "quiet?" i know i know Who would ever want their sub to be quiet but im just wondering. ive heard it can hurt the amp/sub or it cant, i neeed answers!!

is there such technology? i had an idea hmmm... wouldnt it be great to watch digital broadcasted tv in the truck. so what im basically asking, is there a headunit out there that can pickup digital tv broadcast? give me a link & or reason why they dont exist

Currently i have a some JBL components (608C's) in my truck but, but i am currently thinking about purchasing a RF 3sixty.3. My main question is since i am already using components does it even make since to make the purchase unless i change my front stage speakers? I know it is kind of a vague question with many different variables but to keep in context if you are currently using a passive cross-over would going active give you any benefits as far as sound quality?