Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

anyone know of a place that can fix an internal amp on a HU for less than 120 bux.. the place here says 40bux but there labor charge is 80 bux off top <_< .... i talked to david from RE a while ago about it and he said he had a friend that could do it for like 70 + shipp, but he hasn't been on aim lately..

I'm starting a new build with tax returns and was wondering what kind of electrical upgrades I'll be needing. Q1-4500 and a Q4-90. Subs will be (2) HDC4 12s (if I can fit a 5cu ft box in my Cavalier and have room for the batteries) or (2) HDC3 10s. Was thinking HO alt obviously, I think 270amp is the biggest I've seen for my car. 2 runs of power and ground, big 3 obviously and 3 batteries in the back. Will that be enough?

Well a few days ago I got a FI Q powered by a Sundown SAE-1000D. So far I'm loving it and everything seems to be working right. I previously had a different amp with a pair of sundown SD-1's and I used all of the same connections. The only thing I really changed was the ground. As ghetto as it may seem, I had a 4awg power cable with 8awg ground. Since I just bought a new to me amp, I didn't want to run it this way anymore and replaced the ground with 4awg. So today I was heading out to the store and I happened to glance into the trunk. I have a Bmw 325i sedan with folding seats and I had a clear view of where the fuse holder is. I kind of noticed something but wa…

Hi- I've needed a new alternator for a while and I'm finally starting to get my money up to purchase some upgrades. My 2000 Volvo S40 has a small alternator in a cramped engine compartment so most companies don't make alternators for it. DC Power and Ohio generator will make something for me, but I'm not sure which is the best scenario. I have an IA 40.1 (3600+ rms) and RF T4004 elite (~100x4). DC power quoted me ~$800-900 for a 270XP alternator. ~200 amps at idle, 270 max. This would be fine for my current system, but it's quite pricy and I could not buy new batteries this summer. Ohio generator quoted me ~$350-450 for a ~120A at idle (my stock max), and 200A max. Since …

http://www.cardomain.com/item/ULTDD11300SB

i have a orion 2500d and it has an intelli W with HPF on it what is it and is it important

i was just wondering how much the EXILE XI1500.1 cost?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Clarion-Pro-Audio-DRZ9...1QQcmdZViewItem

why was i told that the 4 gauge wire that i am using for my sub is not only overkill but bad for it due to too much resistance? I have not heard of this theory before, is there something that would support this train of thought? thanks chop

Soon i should be running 2 saz1000d's strapped for 1800 at 2ohms in my isuzu rodeo(60 amp alt) big 3 done in 1/0. I have both amps already and i also have one stinger spv44. I will be buying another batt soon, probably a deka intimidator 9a31. Now my question is, which one should i use as the starting batt and which as the batt in the back? im not sure what i should do. I wont have a h/o alt for another couple months also. I know thats probably not enough to run the amps at full power, but i will keep the gains low until i get a h/o alt. thanks for any input! -Max

Ok so I got 2 major questions. Lets start off with the first one... So I have been doing some reading and trying to understand batteries, amp hours, CCAs, and such. And I am lost.... I even watched that youtube video someone posted explaining it and I just was overwelmed with all the math/info. So here is one question for ya. 1st vehicle is a 1999 mustang GT. It has 1 4awg positive run to the rear and split in a distro block to a jl 300/2 amp and a phoenix gold zx350 amp. Ground in the trunk is also 4 awg as well. The problem is the lights dim. But when I hooked up a DMM to the battery in the front it read 14.4 volts and would drop to 14.1 at the lowest with the sub hitti…

My dad got a used 05 Mustang back in the summer, and it came with a Eclipse CD4000 deck in it. I got him a pair of Alpine Type R Componant Speakers for Christmas. I was planning on installing it for him, but he insisted on haveing the car audio shop I got it from to install it (yeah, he don't trust me tearing apart his car). Anyway, I also had a Pioneer 2x60 Watts laying around to power the componants, and a Massive 1000 Watt amp and a 12" Adire Brahma. I took the Pioneer and Massive amp along to have the shop install those too and feed the wires for me, so I have the sub amp ready for the Brahma. So, yesterday, I stuck the Brahma into one of my old boxes (a sealed…

Just ordered up my HO Alt from www.mechman.com =). This guy was referred to me by scottiej from powermaster and he has like every alt ya need and they are darn good prices. Got a 250 amp alt btw =). I guess they aren't like regular HO Alts that just get the windings replaced... they are actually like larger alts that fit into the stock locations and don't sag at low rpms like most HO's do. Great guy and I would recommend him to anyone =) THANKS SCOTTIE!

I've been trying to trouble shoot my hissing noise for a while now and don't know where else to look. When the sub amp is hooked up, the subs have a slight crackle, and the tweeters hiss. But when I unhook the remote to the sub amp the highs are fine. I've moved all of the grounds in the back around to a few different places. I've also tried grounding the head unit, and checked the rcas and tried a different set of rcas.Also added a relay. Grounding the hu kinda lessened the hissing in the highs, but not too much. I don't really know where else to check. I was thinking about just getting a new hu to see if mine is taking a shit...Any advice?

I have a new kenwood head unit I'm trying to install. I bought the scosche wiring harness for my toyota tercel at walmart. I ran into a problem, none of the connections on the wiring harness fit into the back of my kenwood cd player. I'm a noob when it comes to this so help me out? Here are some pictures showing the backs of both head units and the factory wires and the scosche wiring harness. The wires that went into the back of the stock head unit The back of the stock one, see the place to insert the plug? My kenwood doesn't have that There is only one place that looks like a harness would go there, but none of them fit Here is the wiring harness IDK WHAT IM DOINGG…

is there such technology? i had an idea hmmm... wouldnt it be great to watch digital broadcasted tv in the truck. so what im basically asking, is there a headunit out there that can pickup digital tv broadcast? give me a link & or reason why they dont exist

Ok guys i drive an 02 chevy cavalier and i had a weak xplod amp with 2 old RF H 12's or whatever and i sold them and bought a RF BD1500. I'm about to buy a Fi BL 12 and i have a pro working on my box but what should i do electrical wise?? i've been told like a 40 farad cap on the stock system would be good and ive also been told i need a second battery and better wiring. Which do i need? Can someone please help me??

when i have the motor running, & i turn off the system the Planet Audio TT850d makes a pop through the subs !!! ??? i sent it in to get it fixxed and they said they swapped out the board and sent it back so i hook it up and it lasted for about 1 day befor it started the POP thing agine.... so iv tried different amps and NONE of them POP when i turn off the system i.e. ( PPi / JL Audio / Mtx / Hifonics ) !!! any one have a clue as to why the PA Amp pops @ shut down ??? iv tried different ground locations, re-ran the remote w/ new wire, re-grounded the Kenwood & Kove, cant seem to get the amp to quit making a pop when i turn it off.... oh ya it does NOT pop if th…

hello i have two JBL GT4-12 sub woofers which mono amp would be best to power them up. Subwoofer Specifications Subwoofer Size 12" Voice Coil(s) Single Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms Peak Power Handling 1000 watts RMS Power Handling 250 watts Woofer Composition Polypropylene Woofer Surround Rubber Sensitivity 93 dB Frequency Response 23 - 450 Hz Xmax (millimeters) N/A Top Mount Depth 6.25" Cutout Diameter 11.14" my budget is 300$ please kindly reply regards simmer

i had a t20001bd on my btl for a loooong time but finally sold the amp and the whole charging system but still have the sub im trying to sell, but i bought this kenwood 9102d from a buddy so i could thump while im trying to sell my sub... when i have all the wires connected (and yes it is hooked up perfect this isnt my first time) the power light does NOT come on, but the remote wire has enough voltage and the power wire is good (checked with volt meter)....BUT when i pull out BOTH 30a fuses the red power light comes on for like 3-5 seconds then fades away, but voltage and everything stays the same on the amp...the 4 channel amp i have hooked up next to it off the same ba…

Okay so maybe this is a stupid question just because the amount of power should be fairly close to one another. But I have 2, 15in zcon d2. And im going to buy a new amp,next week. I was thinking of cresendo 5500 and running it at .5 ohms like i am now. But somebody local to me is selling 2 svc 3000. If i strap them ill be doing 6k at 2 ohms. Or my origin plan of crezenxo amp which is rated for 5850 @1ohm. Since im running that at .5ohms not,sure how much ill actually be getting theres no spec on .5 ohm. So my question is which way would be better or does it not matter since theyll be pretty,close? Is this just going to be what brand i choose to run or is there more pro…

I know Lanzar is nothing close to sundown audio..... and I would definitely love to buy a 100.4 to add to my small collection, but this is going into an old mud riding truck.... and will likely be in less than optimal environments. Basically.... don't want to spend a ton of money to see my sundown amp go up in smoke. I've only seen 1 lanzar amp in person, powering 2 kicker comps. It ran them fairly well and therefore I'm considering this http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=208112791&listingid=24319010. Please confirm my suspicions by telling me that they are definitely over rated and that it will at least put out 100 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms. I will have to purchase…

what do i need to get for two 18 inch fi btl subs im kinda new at this

Hey guys, right know i currently have a jl w6v2, its being run by an ancient rf amp thats putting out around 500 watts or so. First question... Would i be safe to run this amp at 2 ohms for the w6. Second Question... Honest opinion on the amp and overall quality...

Just wondered if anyone has used one before on an AGM type batt ? (regular or Jr version)