Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I love this amp, but there are two questions i have about it. I have it hooked up to a 15in dayton audio reference series RF 15", and this sub is 500w rms mind you, it is hooked up 4 ohms briged, for 2100w rms, and it just seems like it should have more power than it does. It gets really loud, and gets the sub warm if i let it, (only takes about 20-40secs full power, then it smells a little), but it just seems like that if it was doing rated power, the sub would just bottom out and blow in a matter of seconds, it is in too small of a box(about 2-3 cu ft, it needs 8-10 per sub, might be why it dont bottom out) do you guys think im getting full power out of this amp?? and i…

Seems a little pricey.... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016L37V6

okay i had my mind set on getting these amps 2 of them. after hearing my friends 2010d powering 2 15" ssd's it sounds really really good. every "expert" i've talked to said those are the best amps for the buck right now and HIGHLY recommend them. and i've seen a 2010d power 8 12" AQ's for a long time (5 months) before it overheated/blew. i've always heard (a few years ago) that they have overheating problems. but then again i heard the 2010 models have a different circutiy. i'm really confused on this i do not have the money to spend on "testing" amps anymore and i'm tired of blowing money on low end equipment. so anyways i had my mind set on 2 bxi2610's for about a…

Ok i'll start with the part, its broken, i don't know the proper name for it or where to find a replacement, clue me in. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/vladd...-10-06_1852.jpg I know its hard to tell but basically is an 8pin ribbon connector, a couple of the wires are broken, i could solder them if i had superman vision and nerves of steel, but i don't now for anyone else that may be having this problem...the rear screen on my pioneer 960 went out, thats it, i got pissed, figured what the hell, take it apart and fix it mr mullins, or make a nice paperweight

Hey everyone so here's the deal I don't wanna spend $200 on a bezel to fit a double din... Although double dins look sick! So I'm sticking with a single din that has a flip out touchscreen. I've been looking everywhere for one the suits me. I have OCD and all the buttons need to be red along with a display that can be made red or something that won't stand out. My car is red and black. Also I need 3 preamp outputs. Subs, rear and front. Along with all this I need to be able to charge my iPhone and use it with the unit. I keep all my music in my phone, and I enjoy making calls through Bluetooth. Now I would like the USB port to be on the rear but the worlds not perfect hah…

I am wondering if these amps will run on a 16 volt setup and what kind of power can be expected out of them at this voltage at .5ohm burps. I am wanting to run 4 duel 1ohm XS15's with 4 of the 3000.1's in my CRX.

I was just installing my pioneer avh 4200 and while i was pushing the headunit in my yellow wire came undone and must have grounded because the unit shut off. When I connected the yellows back together the unit would not turn on. But once I touch the yellow with a constant 12v connection it turns on. Is there a way i can fix my yellow wire or would i have to tap into another wire? Everytime I turn off the unit it will reset because the yellow wire isn't working. BTW it is an explorer 2003. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

hey guys, its been a while since i last was on here. Broke down and decided to get 4 skar vvx10's for my truck. Its a 2001 ford f250. The woofers are d4's so ive been trying to figure out which was the bes route to go with amps. I wont lie, I picked up a Soundstream rub1.1600d initally and was going two run two of them (2 woofers per 1600). Electrcial wont be an issue as i already have a 270 amp alt and an xs power 3000 secondary battery. Deka batt in the front. I'm just stretched on amp choice. I've looked at everythng and just cant decide. I trust the soundstream, but if there is better out there, i wanna try them. any suggestions? if i could keep it under $800 id be st…

Ive got a class D Mono amp that keeps shutting off while playing music. before It used to do it if there was a weak signal but now its starting to do it no matter what. I have to turn off the HU then turn it back on to get the amp working again. In the last vehicle it was in the remote wire was connected to a fuse under the dash and the wire's insulation rubbed off somewhere. the wire touched metal on the vehicle and burned out the wire. for a while the amp wouldnt even play any music but then started workign again. btw, that happened almost exactly a year ago... had the amp for 1 1/2 years & i bass it everyday

I need any assistance finding a manufacturer to make a dual alt bracket for my 2011 4runner SR5 4.0L V6 engine. I am in the process of purchasing components for an audio upgrade and would like ti run the truck off the original alt and the sound system off the beefed up(350 amp+) second alt. If anyone has a kit available please please contact me through this post or message. Thank you in advance.

Does anyone know of where i could send my amp to get fixed and or beefed up a little bit? just curious. i burn a cap in my 3k and i was looking to maybe send it out and get that fixed but also beef it up and have them make it one Ohm stable. Its an Audiopipe Ap 3000.1d.

So i went to my local shop and had them do the big 3 for me, yeah i know i should of done it myself lol. Used that Knuconceptz 0 gauge wire. A buddy of mine told me that I will need to add an additional fuse to put between the alternator and the battery, but the shop said that it wasnt needed. I think my alt is like a 130amp on my scion tc, and the extra fuse i bought says 300A. Big 3 helped the voltage a bit, but it still drops right away if im giving a demo or just bumping it loud to the upper 11's. Check the pics here, ImageShack Album - 7 images All i see is the alt to the battery, then the battery to the ground. Is it done right or do i need to add that fuse that i…

Long story short, my system has been under construction for quite some time. I decided to throw some speakers in the doors via the factory speaker wires just to have something to listen to, but there was no sound. My first thought was a short somewhere in the wires, so I wired one speaker directly to the HU's harness (literally at the back of the HU, not through harness adapter) and it still produced absolutely nothing. I played around with the settings and couldn't find anything that could cause this. Am I missing something stupid, or is this HU fried?

My friend keeps on telling me his ma audio 802sx pushes out all this true power at less than 14 volts. I told him his amp was rated at 17 volts and he doesn't believe me. How does the sundown saz-3000d stack up to the ma wattage wise at 14 volts. He says his amps are the better deal because they are a little more than half of the price of the sundown. I told him you get what you pay for and sundown was a better quality amp. I just need some opinions and facts to back up my logic. Any help would be grateful.

hello i have two JBL GT4-12 sub woofers which mono amp would be best to power them up. Subwoofer Specifications Subwoofer Size 12" Voice Coil(s) Single Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms Peak Power Handling 1000 watts RMS Power Handling 250 watts Woofer Composition Polypropylene Woofer Surround Rubber Sensitivity 93 dB Frequency Response 23 - 450 Hz Xmax (millimeters) N/A Top Mount Depth 6.25" Cutout Diameter 11.14" my budget is 300$ please kindly reply regards simmer

hello everybody, I'm new in the forum and I need some information about this amp Autotek 500.s, I just ge this amp to replace my system, but I didn't get any info on it, does anyone know something about it? thanks!

Im really looking to buy a FI BL 15, and I want to run it on a JL AUDIO 1000/1. I want to get the DVC 2 ohm. With all options. I have 1 gauge wiring, Big 3, and secondary battery in the trunk. Both batteries are Optima Red Tops. This will be in a 06 Nissan Altima. Is this amp sufficient power to push the Fi? I still have not configured anything for a box. Probably will be at 3.5 - 4 cu. ft. What should the box be tuned to for max output? I'm new to what type of box I should use so any advice will be appreciated. Right now I have a 12W7. I'm looking for SP and so I'm going for Fi.

havent been here for a while, just been caught up in school and what not. Need some questions answered. I want to put a yellowtop in the back about a foot or two away from the amp. KX1200.1. How would you go about doing that, I'm thinking a battery isolator to keep from draining either battery when it's turned off. What gauge would I run to the second aux battery? Where would I run it from? The isolator? The alternator? I want it to charge along with my starter battery so it doesnt stay drained if I listen to it for long enough. Do I ground the second battery to the floor or back to the original battery? I really need some help so tell me everything you know about …

I would like to know about all the different RCA cables like 2 channel, 4 channel, and 6 channel What goes best with a Sundown Audio Monoblock Amp and one sub? I plan on buying a 2 gauge Tsunami Wiring kit and it only has the power, ground, and remote so I have to buy a RCA seperate and I want to make sure I don't buy the wrong one. Thanks!

So I've been looking online for answers to my dull sense of fully understanding these questions. I have an alpine cde149bt, that I am just not fully comprehending. I have read up and down and searched forums to some avail, but not fully. Im hoping you gurus can help to clarify some things. Now, I have xover settings, with f/r hpf, lpf, frequency and slope. Now I understand these all fairly well, but on this, where I have gotten confused is: does the front hpf control highs, and rear hpf control mids? Or is it as it sounds, front does front, rear does rears? Next is, by setting frequency, slope and levels on xover, how much of an affect does it cause within bands of parame…

Ok, so after doing the voltage setting of the gain, I figured I need around 50 volts for the saz2500d running at 1 ohm. Currently at 40 till I get the inside done with bracing. Problem is, when I turn volume up to 29-30, after 10-15 seconds the circuit breaker up front for the positive run of 0 gauge trips. Then the amp goes into protect mode. Am I drawing that much current that I need to run another run of 0 gauge? Have a 31m diehard platinum in the rear, all 0 gauge, and a 270 mechman. Big 3 in 0 gauge and all frame grounds. Amp ground is only 16" or so to frame.

My bro is looking for a head unit for the 2007 F150 he just bought. He's wanting a double din with these options: Blue Tooth capable Satellite Ready Nav System – Easily updatable (prefer no DVDs, but flexible on this) Traffic Receiver Back Up Camera capable He's looking at this: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZeS1vjeeznh/I-rEMTcVSL/s_105NT3HDT/JVC-KW-NT3HDT.html?ssi=0&tp=27996 but I recall from my head unit shopping a couple years ago that gurus recommended to stay away from JVC. He's having trouble finding another brand with all of the options he wants. Any recs?

I have a question for you guys I have 2 amps 1 for mids and 1 for highs My question is how do I wire both amps ? Both amps have multiple rca inputs... Mids amp is crescendo 1100.4 and highs amp is cheap kenwood 300 watt amp head unit has high mid and sub rca outputs any help will be great Carlos

could anyone help me with what electrical upgrades i have to make to my stock mustang to run these? and if i need extra batteries in the trunk, how do i hook those up? to anyone that can help me with this, thank you.

I have been considering running dual alts in my silverado and was wanting to know a few things... 1. I have a Mechman 270 installed right now. Can I install my stock alt and add the mechman back on a dual alt bracket? 2. Can I use the stock alt to run stock electrical and the mechman to run everything else? Or do I have to run them together? 3. How do I wire in the second alt if its possible to run the different sizes?