Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Since my local Facebook page I follow won't answer my question, I'll come here. I've blown 3 fuses in the past two days with my crappy amp wire kit. I kept putting off getting a good set of wire because I'm lazy and didn't want to spend money. However, I've decided that I can't put it off any longer. I have a few questions about what I should get. Definitely getting Sky High Car Audio because that's what I've seen work best from friends. I have a Cobalt CB3200 amp powering two RE SXX V2 15's (Also keep in mind I will be upgrading amps when money comes along, so I would rather prepare for that now so I don't have to buy twice the wire). I plan on doing the big 3 since…

my kw-nx7000 finally died. I am looking at this unit as a cheap replacement: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42331_JVC-KD-X50BT.html. My goal is to find a cheap , reliable HU with bluetooth, ipod control, at least 2 RCA outputs. Thoughts?

Does anyone know of where i could send my amp to get fixed and or beefed up a little bit? just curious. i burn a cap in my 3k and i was looking to maybe send it out and get that fixed but also beef it up and have them make it one Ohm stable. Its an Audiopipe Ap 3000.1d.

I love this amp, but there are two questions i have about it. I have it hooked up to a 15in dayton audio reference series RF 15", and this sub is 500w rms mind you, it is hooked up 4 ohms briged, for 2100w rms, and it just seems like it should have more power than it does. It gets really loud, and gets the sub warm if i let it, (only takes about 20-40secs full power, then it smells a little), but it just seems like that if it was doing rated power, the sub would just bottom out and blow in a matter of seconds, it is in too small of a box(about 2-3 cu ft, it needs 8-10 per sub, might be why it dont bottom out) do you guys think im getting full power out of this amp?? and i…

I have a pretty basic question. I am looking to upgrade the amps I have to Sundown amps. I need to know if the current wiring will be enough and if not what I need to upgrade. I am having a authorized dealer install these so I just need to know what I need to tell them. I have the following gear: Car: 2001 Jetta GL 2.0liter 4 cylinder Headunit: Kenwood KDC-MP438U (3 sets pre-outs) Fronts: Polk Audio db6501 component speaker (max of 125 watts continuous), door mounted Rear: Polk Audio db6501 component speaker (max of 125 watts continuous), door mounted Sub: 10" Treo TE dual 4 ohm sub (500 watt max), mounted in a Ported ProBox Wiring: 4 gauge Memphis 2 amp wiring kit I a…

Friend, I am from Nicaragua and have a couple of questions: I have a single Rockford amplifier T20001 (2500 - 2800 rms ) with 2 TRF 12 ... and i hit 145.6 db.....Now.... i wanna buy another T200001....my question is: It could increase the db with another T20001 or not. How many db can i increase if put each T20001 with each TRF 12" 1.5? 2? 2.5? 3? Thanks

I have been talking on here for some time now trying to figure out how to beef up my electrical enough to withstand a SAZ-3500D (or maybe I should just go with the AQ-2200D? for a single 18" Fi BTL) and a SAX-50.4. Now I have been looking more and more on other forums because I have pretty much read most of the posts here that are relevant. But It seems I am having conflicting ideas. For one, people on other forums say capacitors are the best thing ever. Get one 1.5-2x the rms load of your sub(s) and you will save yourself money because you wont have to buy a new alt or stock up a battery farm. Now I read on here that people thin capacitors are junk, why? I just want the …

I have a Rockford-Fosgate T-1000bd and earlier today i was playing my friends sub on my amp fine and then i took his out and put mine back in. After I did this the amp is staying in protect mode. The light turns on (blue power) and whenever a bass note hits the protect light will come on in unison with the bass and no sound is produced. I am positive I have my BL wired down to 1 ohm. Any suggestions? more information you need? heeeeeeelp Stock electrical btw on a 2005 grand prix gt.

im gonna run dual alts, my stock one on the redtop for the starter battery, and then a 250a one im buying from kickinaudio for the system...i have 2 15" mt's and 2 orion d5000s. should i run stinger batts or svr? or what else is there? i was thinking the svr80-12's(maybe 2 of them?) or a stinger 2150? i want to get the most out of these amps. they will be running at 1 ohm for sure, possibly .5 ohm...idk yet. thanks, VJ.

anyone know of a place that can fix an internal amp on a HU for less than 120 bux.. the place here says 40bux but there labor charge is 80 bux off top <_< .... i talked to david from RE a while ago about it and he said he had a friend that could do it for like 70 + shipp, but he hasn't been on aim lately..

Currently i have a some JBL components (608C's) in my truck but, but i am currently thinking about purchasing a RF 3sixty.3. My main question is since i am already using components does it even make since to make the purchase unless i change my front stage speakers? I know it is kind of a vague question with many different variables but to keep in context if you are currently using a passive cross-over would going active give you any benefits as far as sound quality?

I have an ED 13Ov.2 that has just sat in my closet for a couple years. I just ordered a Nine.1 for it only to realize that they are on back order for who knows how long. The sub is a dual 2 so what is another nice amp putting out 600 or more RMS at 1 ohm for around 200?? Thanks in advance

When my car is running, and my HU is on pause, I get this high pitch sound through my speakers. its there when a CD is playing to, but high volumes cover it up. Anywanyz, im trying to figure out how to fix it. Someone suggested to me to check the grounds. SO I did, and found that my battery terminal (-) was loose. After secureing it, I thought it had been fixed, but the next time I went out to my car, it did the same thing. This only happens when my car is running, not when im on ACC. If it was still a ground problem, I would hear it when im on ACC too, wouldnt I? Also, my lights, and my HU backlight dim slightly and brighten, all in a very fast movement. I have upgraded …

I just got an omega Excalibur installed by a shop around here and I'm having a very strange issue that hopefully someone can shed some light on. The shop has been troubleshooting this problem for over a week now. So here isnthe problem... After I arm the system, 30 minutes to the dot the alarm triggers and kills my ignition. What this means is the remote start feature becomes entirely useless unless I constantly start it before the 30 minutes is up. Today the installer told me it's the trunk that's triggering the alarm. I don't know anything about alarms so I'm pretty lost here. The installer has been doing this stuff for years and has never seen this happen. Anybody have…

My Memphis 1500 crapped out on me so i'm in need of a new amp. I was looking at either a Clarion DPX11551 or a Hifonics BXi 2610D. Both are going to be run at 2ohms. Any pros or cons on these amps?

Do any of you guys follow the same routine over and over again when installing an amp? In what order do you plug in the wires? Detail always helps. eg: 1. Tear vehicle apart. 2. Run all wires. 3. Disconnect negative, then positive at battery. 4. Connect ground wire to amp. 5. Connect ground wire to frame. 6. Connect remote wire to amp. 7. Connect remote wire to HU. 8. Connect RCA to amp. 9. Connect RCA to HU. 10. Connect power wire to amp. 11. Connect negative to battery. 12. Connect positive amp wire and positive to battery. 13. Insert fuse. Just trying to generate some action here. - Steve

Hey guys I am hoping one of you guys know what is wrong with my amp.. It is a older model rockford t1000 and it worked fine a few weeks ago, my sub stopped playing and I assumed I blew the sub and I found out I did. Well I find out that the amp won't power up or anything.. It popped the 150amp fuse on the amp itself and then I replaced that fuse and it popped the in-line fuse to my 4awg power cable. Soooooo I replaced that fuse and when the amp turns on it makes a very high pitched squealing sound and then pops a fuse.. There is a loose rattling on the inside but it has been that way and worked fine since I have had it even though it rattles on the inside. Should I take i…

hey guys i hav $300 to buy an amp what can i get i need a deal

Ive been searching around for a new headunit for while now. I've narrowed it down to either an alpine cda 105 or kenwood kdc-x494. I've had alpine before and never had any issues. Never owned a kenwood hu before and the only complaints I'm seeing are that they are complicated. And only difference I'm seeing between the two is preout voltage and where the usb is. Which one would you guys recommend and why? Open to other suggestions, except pioneer(bad experiences) and I'd like to keep it around $150.

hey guys i need some help here i have been runnin all over the web trying to find a proper distro block but it seems very hard to find the one im lookin for so here is what im lookin for a 2 way distro with 1/0 input and a 1/0 output and a 4awg output and can be fused to 300 amps thanks

So basically as the topic says, I think my alty is going out. It is causing some whining background noise, and I know all grounds are good, and rca's are clean. I remember having the problem when my old alty when out, and when I got the new one the background noise went away. Any ideas on how to test the alternator? I know you can disconnect battery after vehicle is started, but that it will really only test complete failure...

anyone know of any good 2000 watt amps? i would like to put 2 saz1000's but its a lil out of my price range, but if all else fails ill just get 1 saz1500

I got the wiring already so would a 2nd run benefit me? I'm running a 240a alt, xs power d3400 up front, big 3 and 2 kitneik hc2400s in the back. Soundqubed 4500. I just hear many different things and not sure if it would be worth my time. Thanks guys

Hey all.Im going to be getting an AQ2200 amp soon and I was told I need to get another battery.I kinda figured I would need another battery but Im worried my alternator wont be able to keep up.As it is right now my head lights and other lights dimm when I have my music up with a autotek 1500 watt amp.My car is a 1977 Oldsmoblie Delta 88.The alternator is a remanufactured one and I have no clue how many amps it is putting out.I know the alternator isn't that old.So my question is if I put another battery and a AQ2200 amp in will the alternator handle it or will I need another one or what?I haven't done the big 3 yet as im not enterly sure of what it consists of but I know …

i need a 2 OHM amplifier, obviously kicker makes the best of the bunch. but i need a good lead to a cheaper 2 ohm amplifer, company, or just model