Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey all.The UPS guy just dropped of my new aq2200 amp.Can't wait to get it hooked up!!!

So I just upgraded from a factory HU that I had connected to my Sundown 2000D with a LOC. With my factory HU, all I had to do was bring the volume to 12 (75%) and then get my bass knob and increase it 4 clicks. That was loud bass and loud mids/highs with no distortion. Today I just got a Pioneer DEH-P800PRS. Installed it, took out the LOC and connected the Rockford RCA cable to the Subwoofer output. Reseted the headunit to default (by pressing the small button on the front of face plate), started listening to FM, CDs and even my iPod and realized there is no bass. I checked the LPF and its on default 80hz. I havent touched any filter on my amp. I even thought I had to inc…

Talked a buddy of mine into getting two 10" Fi X's for his truck. Looking for a nice amp that will do rated or more and won't break the bank. He'll be getting the BP power option also. Thanks!

Which is a legit website to buy a BNIB Alpine 9887, not refurbished. OCS: Alpine CDA-9887 In-Dash Receivers with Bluetooth - Video/Multimedia at Onlinecarstereo.com -says brand new sealed in factory box -seems as though reviews of this site goes both ways. PowersellerNYC: PowersellerNYC - Alpine CDA-9887 CDA-9887 CD/MP3/WMA/AAC Receiver -says refurbished and for the same money OCS is advertising its making me think OCS's may be refurbished as well. -not sure on the sites credibility DCCA: Alpine CDA-9887 CD/MP3/WMA/AAC Receiver - iPhone Compatible -says BNIB factory sealed -reviews on this site go both ways as well ASW: Alpine CDA-9887 CD, MP3, WMA PLAYER -doesn't say…

Alright so I have been waiting to get money for 1/0 wiring and then my friend who is in an automotive electrical class in a local college here messaged me and said that he thinks 4 awg would be big enough for my big 3 Since my alt is only a 70 amp alt and He read that 4 awg should carry up to 150 amps.. At least in that short of a run (1ft-5ft runs) Just wanna make sure if this will work before I buy it in about 45mins. I dont have enough yet for all the 1/0 but I have enough to afford 4 awg if it is good enough now. After he said that i figured well 1/0 can carry more current at a time and quicker.. but.. If my alt only puts out 70 and 4 awg can carry 150.. Is there…

Just got a Fluke 87 ture rms multimeter My link I don't know if it is accurate or what but i read the owners manual and am mind boggled. how do I tell the voltage readout on this thing? It says ac voltage=2.5 but i know thats not right. any ideas?? Thanks Matt Cusack

So I got my JL 500/1 for my sub setup Friday, didn't have time to install it til today... One issue... The amp doesn't seem to kick in until I hit about 50% of max on my Pioneer HU.. I know it is not the HU because it was beatin' in the morning with my old setup (Kenwood).. Two things happened when doing the "swap" of amplifiers... 1. Apparently one of the ring terminals on the wiring was shitty, and came out... 2. I replaced the terminal with a new one I bought at BestBuy just so I could get it done... When installing this onto the capacitor that was already in my car I accidentally touched the wire to both ends... Spark and sizzle but everything seemed ok... Now again..…

System consists of the following: • 2010 and up Camaro drivers side large stealth enclosure from Subthump • Knukonceptz 4AWG wiring and interconnects and speaker wire • MTX RE-Q • Subthump T-Harness (used so that we DO NOT splice into the factory wiring) • 12" Fi Q (dual 2 ohm wired to 4 ohms w/ all options and high qts) • ZED Audio Kronos bridged @ 4 ohm (1000rms) There are a couple things that seem to be off. For one, we are using the factory headunit and thought that the RE-Q would be perfect because of the bass restoration, and the fact that the Kronos needs unbalanced grounded preouts (as said by Steve from ZED). Now, due to the fact we havent installed any bass blo…

Ok so here's the deal, I have my 18" SSD and I'm about to get a bigger amp for it (aq1200d or audiopipe or sax1200d) back to the point.. I want to make sure I have enough power to give it. I drive a 97 civic I think its like a 70amp alt. All stock electrical ( im also doing the big 3 to all 1/0 next week ) but I dont know enough and need help about batteries. Basically if I add a Battery is that going to be enough power to run my subs or do second battery's not even help on a stock alt? I see a bunch of people on here who always have batteries added and so I want to know if i can just add a battery to the back and be ok with my stock alt. I'm think along the lines of a…

So I in the market in buying a 4 channel amp I need about 100 rms per channel going cheap on the amp crunch or MB quart. But my question was if i buy the amp i can use 2 channels for my front stage and can I leave the other 2 for a sub? And most amps are only bridgeable at 4 ohms so this means it is 20 ohms each channel? And my sub is a 4 ohm DVC so if i wire it 2 2ohms it going to be at 1 ohm? So what I'm saying is will I be able to run a front stage and a sub together?

My new amp (Aq1200d) came in. Verryyy nice. Not a whole lot to say about it yet besides that it seems to push alot more than my old bxi and seems pretty reliable. Looks fantastic. Thumbs up to the guys at Audioque excuse my dirty carpet, it will be cleaned soon.

Okay guys.... Your assistance is needed once again... I had my equipment installed by a buddy and since I had planned at the time to run my Kenwood amp at 1 ohm with a 15" Kicker L7 my buddy dropped in a RF 1 farad capacitor while we hooked this all up... I already know this negatives here and so I would like to remove this while I do my amplifier swap hopefullly this weekend.... Here is the big $100k question: How do I discharge the capacitor? I will disconnect the power from the battery and then remove the capacitor fully as I understand it... But I don't want this light bomb sitting in my apartment with energy being stored... only found this link .... Should I ju…

hello i have two JBL GT4-12 sub woofers which mono amp would be best to power them up. Subwoofer Specifications Subwoofer Size 12" Voice Coil(s) Single Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms Peak Power Handling 1000 watts RMS Power Handling 250 watts Woofer Composition Polypropylene Woofer Surround Rubber Sensitivity 93 dB Frequency Response 23 - 450 Hz Xmax (millimeters) N/A Top Mount Depth 6.25" Cutout Diameter 11.14" my budget is 300$ please kindly reply regards simmer

Well I have finally gotten around to using the MB Quart PXD-213, I have had them sealed in box brand new for 6 years now. Fantastic product just never used them. The question I am having is this and it may sound like a noob issue so please be gentle. I have a phenix gold 250.2 running them, have 12 gauge speaker wire in lengths less than 3 feet from amp to crossover, now I don't understand the installation diagram cause the damn thing is in german. or deutsh. so here is the issue, it says to run biwire from the amp into the low input and the high input, I have them wired just to the high input from amp and they sound phenomenal. now the issue is this at high volum…

So my friend just got a new Sundown amp. The recommended fuse size is 200 amp. He just told me on the phone he currently has a 60amp fuse on his fuse holder. He asked me if it was fine to use what he had, I said I was going to ask around first to see if it was ok to do so. Is it ok to use a 60 amp fuse or will there be any problem/risk or anything?

I am looking to rebuild/convert my CS130 alternator to a high amperage unit. This is for the car and system listed in my sig. What are the limits this case can handle. I came across a 200 amp stator. The biggest rotor I've come across is 140 amp. Will these work together. To go along with this I was thinking about using a heavy duty Delco voltage regulator set at 14.7v, and a Delco rectifier with six 70 amp avalanche diodes. Any thoughts of what the output of this combo would be? Should I get a smaller pulley as well? Thanks.

I was thinking about purchasing a SAE-1200dv2 from dB-r and I noticed that the refurbs they are selling don't come with a bass remote. If I were to buy one where could I get a remote? Straight from Sundown/Jacob? Thanks

I am looking to install a Sundown SAX1200D in my truck after I get the money up. My question is to run it at 1 ohm what all will I need to upgrade on my electrical besides the Big 3? If I need a larger or more batteries what size should I run and what should I run for the alternator?

Does anyone that is familiar with the Audiopipe 3000D (The one that is two 1500's strapped) familiar with what kind of current it pulls? I plan on getting one in the future, and I am trying to plan out my electrical system. I need to know what it takes to be able to back one of these suckers up. I currently have a 220amp h.o alternator, 1/0 Big 3, an Optima yellow top under the hood, and a run of 200amp fused 1/0 cable to the back.

So if you put the power, ignition and ground from the head-unit on the battery directly and there is no power, is the head-unit faulty? Because i only get a tiny tiny spark on the positive post... other then that, no reaction. http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ida-x305s/

Whats up SSA Forums, Im looking to replace the alternator on my 2002 BMW 530 ASAP with an HO Alternator. My search online and in person has not been too good, so i was wondering if any of you guys could refer me to a person, website, or shop if it's close to the Raleigh/Durham area in North Carolina. Thanks

Just curious what all of you guys are running as far as engine belts with your HO alt? I'm running a new stock GM one now, thinking of getting a gates belt...

Hey guys, I posted this on 180db.com but have yet to get any responses. I just purchased a new Kinetik HC1800 and when I installed it my car was idling so rough that I was scared to continue with it. Let me explain the install first cuz it might have something to do with it. Had an Optima Redtop that was okay but I kept getting the dimming when pumping the tunes. I then bought a 1.2Farad RF capacitor and it was a little better but not by much. So instead of experimenting with upgrading wires yet I decided to purchase the HC1800. Well, cables were too short to reach the battery connectors even when turned 180 to be a little closer. So I went to the hardware store and purch…

Looking for some help with what to put my settings at, I understand most of them, but not all of them. Was hoping you could give your educated opinions on what to set my equipment to. The equipment I am working with is a JL 250/1 (powering two American Bass 12's), an American Pro VS1407 (powering two pairs of Planet Audio 6.5's) and a Blitz 2-way crossover (has a remote bass knob with sub gain and frequency sweep). These are all the settings available to mess with. JL 250/1 Full/Low/High LP Filter Mode/Slope - Off/12dB/24dB - 40Hz - 200Hz Bass Control Infrasonic Filter - Off/30Hz - 0dB - +15dB Amp Input Input Voltage - Low/High Signal Sensing …

So I got on it today getting on the interstate, battery light came on, stayed on a few seconds then went off. Put it in neutral, reved it, nothing for a few seconds, stopped reving, light came on a few seconds. Pulled over, put DMM on front battery 14.18. Reved it up, droped to 13.2...stereo off. Checked rear batts, 14.18 running, dropped to 13.5 off, probably would have kept dropping slowly. O'Reilley AGM in front, 2 large O'Reilley AGMs in back 100aH. Iraggi HO alt, the highest at idle lowest peak: 160-180 idle, 200-220 peak.