Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey guys I'm new to the forum. I'm thinking about getting 1 Fi 18" BTL fully loaded and a sundown 1500. I was just looking for some feedback on how that would sound in a 2006 king ranch expedition

i need a 2 OHM amplifier, obviously kicker makes the best of the bunch. but i need a good lead to a cheaper 2 ohm amplifer, company, or just model

When you run active does that mean the driver of the car gets the best sound? Not the passengers?

my kw-nx7000 finally died. I am looking at this unit as a cheap replacement: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42331_JVC-KD-X50BT.html. My goal is to find a cheap , reliable HU with bluetooth, ipod control, at least 2 RCA outputs. Thoughts?

I recently have gotten an old school amp and when i hooked it up on monday everything sounded great. Yesterday i go out and start play i hear a buzzing/static sound coming from the driverside. so I turn up the volume and did a fade from left to right and the sound was only coming from the driver side. I went and cut the speaker wire and ground wire to give it a fresh end and it that seemed to stop it. An hour later went out the sound was back so i swaped the rcas around took channel ones rca and plug it into channel two and vice versa. Im going out now to see if that worked and ill let u know.... nope it is still ther but it seems to get softer as it plays but as soon as…

ok well i had a 130 amp high output alternator in my car, but it would whine every time i turn the car on for about 5 mins on n off depending on the electrical drain. so i reinstall the stock alternator, ( if someone knows what a stock 96 accord ex 2.2L alternator amp rating is tell me) there is no whine now which means there is no straining at idle. i no that the high ouput alternator i got is 130 amps at 1200 rpm, n prolly lower than stock at idle, but now with the stock alternator in, the lights dim bad, i can definitely tell. before with the High output alternator i didnt see much of my lights dimming. i do have a 1 farah cap in the trunk. now i was wondering because …

what are some good high output alternators for a 2010 nissan altima. I dont want to do any electrical damage with an aq2200d and two bl 12's so i finally decided to buy a ho alternator around 300amps

Okay, so I just hooked up all of my system last night. It worked flawlessly all last night, and this morning. So today, after work, I got in my car, turned on my radio, and my amp and everything turned on and my sub was playing, but I now have no music. At all. I know this is probably a n00b thread, but please help! I'm dying without my sub lol

Are there any good non D class amps that can push my twin RE SE 12s

So I'm slowly putting together a small system for my 2005 TrailBlazer, No SPL Comps, just want something thats really loud and sound really good... Would be nice if it threw up some impressive numbers... What I have in hand or on the way already: 2 - sets of Polk Audio MM6501s (got them last week) 1 - SAX-100.4D (just ordered it today) Should be here by Monday, maybe Sooner... No hurry though, need more stuff... 1 - SAZ-2000D (Had it for a few months for the Blazer, was gonna order 3 more for its redo, but I got the TrailBlazer, so I'm doing it 1st, then back to the Blazer) 3 Sets of Scoche RCA (Per Jacobs recomendation) Buncha wire and connecters and such.... Things to…

Hey guy's. Just doing some research and was wondering if the deka was comparable in power to the xs? I can get the deka for 225 and the xs for 290. The price difference is great but is the quality and power there aswell? Thanks Matt Cusack

I just got an omega Excalibur installed by a shop around here and I'm having a very strange issue that hopefully someone can shed some light on. The shop has been troubleshooting this problem for over a week now. So here isnthe problem... After I arm the system, 30 minutes to the dot the alarm triggers and kills my ignition. What this means is the remote start feature becomes entirely useless unless I constantly start it before the 30 minutes is up. Today the installer told me it's the trunk that's triggering the alarm. I don't know anything about alarms so I'm pretty lost here. The installer has been doing this stuff for years and has never seen this happen. Anybody have…

ive recently upgraded my subs and now i cant hear anything when im full tilt. im going to delete the rear speakers and i was looking for a decent 2 ch amp for my front speakers. im curious to see if you guys have any suggestions for a budget amp that can do ~50-100 rms each @ 2 ohm. i had a few questions also. if the amp had lets say 1% THD would that be noticeable? also how important is the signal to noise ratio? would 80db be really bad? (these are extreme examples) another thing, if the amp is cea compliant does that mean their THD and signal to noise numbers must be true, or is it only hold true to rms ratings? thanks!

...and what do you like or dislike about it? I am in the market for a DMM. I read here about true rms DMMs after someone mentioned to be aware of this feature. Is this necessary for setting up gains when a constant frequency is used to get a voltage measurement? Also, how accurate or unnecessary would a clamp meter prove to be? At the moment, I feel I am shopping for a clamp meter with true rms feature. I appreciate your thoughts.

Do any of you guys follow the same routine over and over again when installing an amp? In what order do you plug in the wires? Detail always helps. eg: 1. Tear vehicle apart. 2. Run all wires. 3. Disconnect negative, then positive at battery. 4. Connect ground wire to amp. 5. Connect ground wire to frame. 6. Connect remote wire to amp. 7. Connect remote wire to HU. 8. Connect RCA to amp. 9. Connect RCA to HU. 10. Connect power wire to amp. 11. Connect negative to battery. 12. Connect positive amp wire and positive to battery. 13. Insert fuse. Just trying to generate some action here. - Steve

I saw kicker had a line of install accessories, power kits, brass hardware and rca's i see some vauge explanations of the products, but is there an indepth view of what each of these kits come with... for example the 1/o gauge multi amp kit... i see some pics with it including battery terminals... are these included?? stillwater help!

Anyone know anything about these old series 1 amps? Rockford Fosgate 4 channel amp, Series 1 4060x with high and low crossovers - $50 shipped (4x30wrms@4ohms, 4x60wrms@2ohms, 2x180wrms@4ohms) I'm not sure that such an old amp has the best crossovers for SQ purposes but just wanted to see if anyone had any experience with em and whether pricewize was even worth it.

Well, I'm upgrading, and had plans to keep existing power wire, but think i might stress the capacity of the wire. What I have: 20' of Knu KLMX 1/0AWG to second battery (trunk) [Fused @ 250A] 5' of Knu KLMX 1/0AWG from second battery to amps (distro. block in between) What I'm putting in: Soundstream RUB1.2500D [250A] Soundstream RUB2.600 [60A] Soundstream RUB2.250 [30A] Now, I've read that KLMX is capable of 250A loads, and Kolossus 300A+. Would the KLMX I have be enough to run the amps, if I upgrade the inline to 300A, and run 250,60,30 ANL in the distribution block. [However, 250+60+30≠300] Has anyone ran a 300A load off KLMX, or should I just spend the $100 and get t…

i need help to figure out how much power my amp will push out at different voltages. The amp i am using is a crescendo bc2000d and it states it will do 2250 at 1 ohm @13.8v. my question is what will be the power output if i were to put it at 14.6v and 16.8v.

Ok. I will give as much info as I can. I have $600 for a new amp. I have 2 FI Q 15s dual 2s in an 8 cube box at 33hz walled. It's a daily setup. Right now I have 2 older hifonics Amps and I'm running them at 4 ohms. So right now I have about a 500 watt system. What amp will be the best bang for my buck thats around 3000 watts? And how much of a difference will a new good amp make compared to the 2 hifonics Amps I have now?

I've had about 3 of them and l loved each one the same, I've had alot of big amps and this lil puppy is the only one that starts to smoke the coils on my DDs within mins of serious play, not enough to blow my 9515s but if you ever need a small amp that puts out a REAL 1500-1800 watts D300hc is the only way to go for 250-300 bucks the only down side is that it does NOT have a subsonic filter and me and other guys like me that loves the sound of a ported enclosure , that comes in handy.. just bought me another one for 80 bucks (blown)

Would I fry the amp if I have the Big 3, stock alt, and a 2nd battery if I ran a saz-1500D at 1 ohm for daily?

Has anyone used the TRYSTAR Flexible Welding Cable in any of your installs? If so is it a good wire?

here is the situation, i was going to install my new alternator, when i took the belt off the old alt, i noticed something, even though i had all the tensioner down, it didnt come out easily, wasnt a really hard task, but was unusual then, when i installed everything, i was going to put on the belt, but couldnt put it in place, it needed just a bit more to enter, and a friend suggested me to put a longer belt what are your opinions, but would need them fast, need to do it before going to school tomarrow