Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

My bro is looking for a head unit for the 2007 F150 he just bought. He's wanting a double din with these options: Blue Tooth capable Satellite Ready Nav System – Easily updatable (prefer no DVDs, but flexible on this) Traffic Receiver Back Up Camera capable He's looking at this: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZeS1vjeeznh/I-rEMTcVSL/s_105NT3HDT/JVC-KW-NT3HDT.html?ssi=0&tp=27996 but I recall from my head unit shopping a couple years ago that gurus recommended to stay away from JVC. He's having trouble finding another brand with all of the options he wants. Any recs?

this amp http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...;product_id=517 OR http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=19580 for an 18 inch fi q

need diagram for wireing more than 2 - 8v batterys together ? is there a sticky with pics ???

basicly when i hook up the 12v source it cuts on without the rem connection and stays on, even if i conncet the rem. i'll recheck it in the morn, cuz its rainin, but yea.

O.k. here is the deal. I have 8 sets of SoundStream RF-60C component speakers (6" midwoofer, 25mm tweeter, and crossover). I just found out that I have 2 blown crossovers (so far). Being that each set has a rms power rating of 180watts, I thought I could get away with running 1 crossover per 4 midwoofers and 4 tweeters. This gives me a 1.7Ohm load. I was just told not to do that as the crossover will not handle the power. O.k. then, my next question goes here. Since the amplifier that I will be using has a built in crossover, do I really need to use the crossovers that come with the components? I am pretty sure this can be done without a problem, but want to be sure. I kn…

What happened: was running pioneer avic d3 with backup camera...one day backup camera started not working at random times and I wanted Bluetooth radio so I replaced head unit with pioneer mvh-300ex. Since doing so my head unit does not turn off with ignition (or door open+Truck off) The Wiring: I’ve checked the obvious and my HU power is correctly hooked up to red wires and the yellows are correctly hooked up as well. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Currently I've got a P3002 and two Memphis twelves and a Memphis 15. I'm planning on upgrading my wiring to 1/0, and thinking I'll probably need an upgraded alternator. Someone in another thread said something about needing extra batteries for a T1500, I was thinking I'd be okay with the alternator. Opinions? By the way, I'm planning on ordering a BTL 18 next. I'm also looking for ideas on box design. Its going in an Explorer, so I've got plenty of room. I want the sub facing the roof and the port facing the front. Planning on making a amp rack out of some plexi too, I'll have to post some pics.

so i was sayin how the sub was making a knocking sound(bottoming out). so i decided to perform an experiment. i setup a -6db 50hz test tone put my radio at volume 35(70%) and i tuned the gain to put out 31.62 volts, which is 1000 watts. next i put in the removed the test tone cd and put the song that made the knocking sound in. looking at the volt meter some parts of the song would jump to over 40volts thats like 1600 watts, now i see why the sub was knocking, obviously that is a clipped signal. why is this happening? if i set my amp with a DMM with a test tone why am i getting a huge signal when i play a song. doesnt make sense and also makes the DMM method for setting g…

i was woundering if you guys can give me some input will i tell a difference between using 12 gauge or 8 gauge for wireing my sub to my amp i have a 12" btl w/cooling daily d2ohm ans i got a saz 2000d going to wire it down to one ohm wow just realized i cant spell !!

I have been considering running dual alts in my silverado and was wanting to know a few things... 1. I have a Mechman 270 installed right now. Can I install my stock alt and add the mechman back on a dual alt bracket? 2. Can I use the stock alt to run stock electrical and the mechman to run everything else? Or do I have to run them together? 3. How do I wire in the second alt if its possible to run the different sizes?

Just seen these Tenergy LiFePO4 SLA Style Battery 12.8V 20Ah at parts express by my house and wondering if they would be any good for car audio. Iv been seeing people using the juicebox lithium batteries and the 40 ah one is $1500 . So just trying to see if 2 of these would be the same. Really trying to cut down on weight and my van build and this would help out alot rather than having 500 plus pounds just for batteries

Simple question really. I know setting your gain with HU at around 75% is going to give you the best voltage output without distortion from your HU to your amp. That being said, with my current Grand Cherokee Limited infinity stock speakers 75% sounds like ass. (stock speakers get too loud) Btw, I'm setting the gain for my sub amp a RD 1750.1 at .5 ohms to a Treo SSX 12 with a Shuriken BT100 in the back. All 0 gauge and big 3 is done. HU is Alpine CDA-9886 with Subwoofer level and Bass/Treble. Also has a HPF which I'm not too sure actually does anything. I thought it would keep bass from going to my stock speakers? That's besides the point. Basically, my question is if …

i have a budjet of 350$ im looking at the hifonics 2600 or the power acoustic 5500 does any one have any sugestions to witch is better to run my 12 fi btl daily driver 2ohm w/cooling best ?

Does anyone have any experience with these amps? Are they reliable? I just bought the little 500.1 to try out in the sq oriented install. I bought it because its so versitile with its wiring options and I got it dirt cheap but I havent heard anything about its relliablity.

Yes hello i have a question about wiring i have 2 us amps md1d and 2 kicker l7 15s i have 4ga wiring sometimes my fuse blows every now and then when i turn it up my homeboy has almost the same set up but has 0ga wiring and has not blown a fuse so my question is should i go to 0ga wiring and how should i run it. Thanks

My headunit is the alpine cde-102 and I got the alpine kce-433iv (full speed connection cable made specifically for my hu). Hooked the cable up to the rear pigtail connection, flipped through all the sources on HU and it shows nothing. If I set it to Aux, I can play music from the ipod but can't control ipod from headunit. So it's acting as a normal 3.5mm jack aux cable... I tried switching settings from Aux input ON to OFF and that only enabled/disabled the music from ipod, but still no headunit controls. My ipod is a touch 2g, I've also tried a ipod nano 2g, and no avail. Anyone have a similar problem or solution? Perhaps my cable is crap, but it seems odd for a new cab…

Would two XS Power D3400's be okay to run that? I have high output 270 Amp dc alt. Or should i get two XS Power D3100's?

ok here it is I think that I'll be going with either the opti 6000 or the VFL 500.1 any input on which one would be greatly helpfull. Also if there are any others in the same price (1500-2000) feel free to post them. Thanks

I'm on the search for an affordable amp that will do rated power. Looking for 2000w @ 1ohm. It will be pushing hopefully a pair of Icon 15's or z15's. Electrical: 200amp h.o Alternator Optima yellow under the hood 1/0 Big three. Also on the search for a decent battery to add to the back if need be.

So last night I sat down and made a small list of wiring and accessories I'll need to get my saz 3500d powered. I'll be running one battery upfront and two in the back. The extra 0 gauge is for the big 3...Any advice on better products or a cheaper source would be appreciated.. http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinger-SPD5203-Pro-Classic-ANL-0%7B47%7D4-Gauge-Inline-Fuse-Holder.html x 3 @ $35 - 3 fuse holders http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Tsunami-5-Pack-Gold-ANL-Fuses-%28Choose-Size%29.html x 1 - $8 - 5 300amp fuses http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinger-SHI2120-HPM-1-RCA-Cable-20FT.html x 2 - $24 - 20ft rcas http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinge…

Has anyone used the TRYSTAR Flexible Welding Cable in any of your installs? If so is it a good wire?

OK, here is scenario- Got a 20A relay on remote turn on wire with 3 amps and some leds on it. The 15A fuse on the relay popped today... that means it drew WAY too much current... i have a short somewhere... I check- 3 wires were pulled out of the remote turn on distro block that was reading ground.... 1 of these wires is an LED wire. The other 2 wires go to my sundown 100.4 and the other wire goes to both AQ3500Ds remote turn on... The LED wire reads 0.0 ohms and the turn on wires for all 3 amps are reading 0.2 ohms.... Is the remote turn on's grounded? Did the led wire cause a massive surge through all the remote turn ons?

Hey I new with audio most of the time I have a mini truck which I never could fit a system into the cab but anyways i just bought a clarion amp made in 1996 and it has never been hooked up its a two channel apa2100 so what kind of subs could i run to get the best sound out of it is going in a 96 rodeo so i have room for about anything but anything would help thanks

I have a kicker l7 2ohm, its wired for a 4ohm load, so should i pick an amp with 750w RMS at 4ohms? does anyone have some suggestions? Thanks

Not too sure what to think of these... 100ah batteries for 160 bucks? I'm assuming that build quality isn't there compared to other high end battery makers, would they even be worth using? I'll probably be needing some backup electrical sometime soon and don't have a ton of money.