Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey guys, I've received good information in my other topic so I thought I'd come back for some more. Got some questions to do with the setting on my sub amp and head unit Currently I'm running a infinity reference 611a amp powering 2 infinity 1050w subs but I'm looking to move up to a single 15". my head unit is a pioneer deh-p80mp and I play all my music off my multi-media player via aux input but the devices output is really quiet so with the way my setup currently is, the maximum I put my head unit to is 55 out of 60. I thought that head units have a point at which they clip but I can't hear any distortion. So I don't know if this is a problem or not. The way the sub a…

I am looking to sell my 2- bc2000-d amps. I am looking to get a single amplifier and was looking to get a Sundown SAZ3500 or SAZ4500. I have had someone offer me a trade for a dd T1 amp. I know currently have no information on this amp but will be researching. Looking for opinions of these. I have not been able to hear one either. It will be for my two Zcon 12's.

if on my battery i am running a 2 gauge wire to my alternator and a 2 gauge wire to my amps coming from the positive battery terminal post, is ok to wire one 0 gauge wire from the battery to the frame or does it have to be (2)-2 guage wires going from the battery's negative terminal post to frame. in the long run after running two batteries i will come up with close to 5 ground wires that needed to be grounded to the frame and i wanted to lighten the load if possible but if not its cool.

ok o i know how to wire an second batt but my question is about the fusing part... this is what i was planning on doing and please somebody correct me if im wrong or if i need to add another fuseor fuses + from starter batt to + rear batt - from start batt to - rear batt (thats all 0 gauge) then + from rear batt with 0 gauge wire, fuse holder,and fuse to my sub amp then + from rear batt with 4 gauge wire with 4 gauge fuse holder to my front stage speaker amp that mean no fuse under the hood and no fuse b/w batts would that be ok??

Alright so i was fooling around with the options in my headunit and i found something thats called BBE. I looked it up and its a type of processor i think, anyways, i turned it on and everything sounded WAY better, not only louder, but crisper and the midbass also sounded alot better. The ONLY downside i see to this setting so far is that it shuts off at 22/35. Im speachless.

I'm running 1 Linear Power 5002iq to 1- 12" sub rated for 500 rms. Linear Power suggests a 60 amp fuse, 1 at the battery and 1 at the amp. The amp has 8 gauge power wire hardwired in to connect to. Do I need to run 4 gauge from the battery to a distribution block or can I get away with 8 gauge from the battery all the way back? Thanks

I am about to start building my system in my ex cab toyota truck. I am not sure if I am going with 2 Fi Q15's or 2 BL15's, fully loaded yet. But I need a amp that puts out around 1000 watts RMS at 1 ohm for around $360. So far I have been looking at these: Hifonics 2600W for around $350 AudioQue AQ2200D for $390 Which one of these should I get or is there any other amp out there in this price range that might be better?

has anybody heard reviews or have used any hifonics brutus amps? are they good? write back

Im needing a good amount of some 14 awg speaker wire for my rebuild. Can anyone point me in the right direction of best product for the money? ive tried a few spots and cant seem to find the quality im looking for. Also I know senchez listed a few places/links to buy things at good prices but cant find that post now...

Just need someone to explain to me what the subwoofer setting does, currently I have it at -10. It sounds really nice at that setting, when I turn it up to 0 or +1..2..3 etc, the bass feels more jumpier and not as nice, what does this setting do, and what should it be set at?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Clarion-Pro-Audio-DRZ9...1QQcmdZViewItem

got a kenwood kac 9013d amp here that went into protection one day in my brother's car. it was temporarily mounted to the sub box at the time and powering a kicker l7 15 (which is now dead due to cracked magnet and shifted motor)in a ~4 cube ported box. so what happens is every time it is powered on it will go into protection. i looked the board over and i dont see anything burnt. however i did find a capacitor with one of it's leads broken off. here is what info i can get from the capacitor: 50v 47uF (microfarad), appears to under a brand ELNA, CE85(degree symbol)C which i assume means ceramic and 85C is max temp rating, right under that last line it reads 0718 which …

Alright.. just placed my order for a 18" BTL fully loaded yesterday, i already have a Sundown SAZ1500D.. im worried its not going to be enough power.. maybe im wrong? lol.. what else is out there that isnt outrageous in price but does its job? im lookin for over a 2000 rms amp. and needs 1 ohm stability. Like i said.. maybe my sundown will work fine.. but with all the damn money im dumpin into this build as far as battery's, wires, alternator and all that good stuff, i want to really get this BTL movin.

ok, here's the situation. i've been out of the game for a while and am jumping back in with both feet but have a little area of concern, i will be running a 100.4 on all my mids and highs for front stage and rear fill but have also been toying with throwing a Audio Control eqs 6 channel crossover at it as well. My concern here is that with all the crossover points between the eqs and the amps, that there will be some serious tuning issues to the point of wanting to pull out what ever hair i have left. ( yes i am considered an old fart in the car audio world now, 33 on wednesday) I am open to suggestions here on which routes to go as far as ditching the idea of the eqs a…

Guys where can i find a good alternators for my 2001 dodge neon, something good at a reasonable price...some numbers would be nice too

...I have an 04 f150. im gonna have 2 hifonics 2608 brutus amps and 2 rockford fosgate p400.4 amps running. i currently have a yellowtop just running the car but i know im gonna need more. so how many more yellowtops should i get? or is there something better?

Hey everyone so here's the deal I don't wanna spend $200 on a bezel to fit a double din... Although double dins look sick! So I'm sticking with a single din that has a flip out touchscreen. I've been looking everywhere for one the suits me. I have OCD and all the buttons need to be red along with a display that can be made red or something that won't stand out. My car is red and black. Also I need 3 preamp outputs. Subs, rear and front. Along with all this I need to be able to charge my iPhone and use it with the unit. I keep all my music in my phone, and I enjoy making calls through Bluetooth. Now I would like the USB port to be on the rear but the worlds not perfect hah…

so i have looked EVERYWHERE and i cannot see to find a fill kit for a 1999 for taurus with digital climate controls, it is drving me crazy a buddy of mine need this last thing to finish his system and cannot see to find it anywhere PLEASE help me

What is the lowest ohm the sundown SAZ-2500d can drop down to and still be stable?

im having major voltage drop and headlight dimming i have a rockford fosgate t1500-1bd and a power acoustik 1000max 4channel have stock battery and stock alt, all in a 2000 chevy silverado single cab 4.3L V6 also have big 3 done with kolussus fleks 1/0awg would a bigger battery help, like a kinetic HC2000, help or what should i do thank you

Has anybody seen this Hu, it's bad ass! And if so does anybody know if this will be available in the US. Thanks

Alright, so I got my amp yesterday (Diablo Audio Technologies 1000.1) and it's great, except for one problem. Every time I turn on the truck, about 5 min. later the amp turns off and a blue light (alarm) on the amp goes on, even if I don't have it that loud. Can somebody tell me what might be the cause? P.S.- There is only one L.E.D. and Red means On/Power Blue means Alarm

Ok guys i drive an 02 chevy cavalier and i had a weak xplod amp with 2 old RF H 12's or whatever and i sold them and bought a RF BD1500. I'm about to buy a Fi BL 12 and i have a pro working on my box but what should i do electrical wise?? i've been told like a 40 farad cap on the stock system would be good and ive also been told i need a second battery and better wiring. Which do i need? Can someone please help me??

have no clue how to even start but am woundering how to convert my 12v to a 16v system ? what is all requierd i don't have a budget as of yet but i am also wondering how much aproximatly it would cost.

Hi guys! Its been awhile since I have last been on here. So after many tests of swapping speakers/ crossovers, checking RCAs it comes down to my amp has an issue with the speaker outputs on the left side of the outputs only. The right side works completely fine after swapping speaker wires from left to right. There is sound, but its very fuzzy/dull and almost sounds blown. Can this easily be fixed maybe? Maybe from a member on here? The amp is an Orion 600 watt 2 Channel amp. The amp was maybe purchased in 2007/2008 brand new. Maybe just the age and daily wear and tear its time for a new one? Thanks guys!!