Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i finally took the plunge and vented my box...and i have noticed that the bass output changes per song or cd(which happened with the sealed box also)..some songs are loud and deep and others have nothing?..i was wondering if theses processors really to restore the low end in all recordings..im goin to get into the sd chips for music so i want everything to sound the same..thanks in advance...

here is the situation, i was going to install my new alternator, when i took the belt off the old alt, i noticed something, even though i had all the tensioner down, it didnt come out easily, wasnt a really hard task, but was unusual then, when i installed everything, i was going to put on the belt, but couldnt put it in place, it needed just a bit more to enter, and a friend suggested me to put a longer belt what are your opinions, but would need them fast, need to do it before going to school tomarrow

i was on egay browsing for an amp and came across this RE Audio XT-4000DE V2. seems like a solid amp and price under 350,but wanted to ask about it before i made a decision. XT-4000DE v2 Specifications: Number of Channels 1 Rated Power (RMS) 500W x 1 @ 4 Ohm 800W x 1 @ 2 Ohm 1500W x 1 @ 1 Ohm Total Power 1500W Dynamic Power 4000W Bridgeable No Efficiency (average) 86% @ 4 Ohm 84% @ 2 Ohm 76% @ 1 Ohm Variable Crossover Control Low-Pass: 40-250Hz, 24dB/Octave, Butterworth Variable Bass EQ 30dB Boost @ 45Hz Subsonic Filter 15-40Hz, 24dB/Octave Sig…

ok everything is hooked up right is there a setting on the headunit to turn the subs on or am i fucked

...and what do you like or dislike about it? I am in the market for a DMM. I read here about true rms DMMs after someone mentioned to be aware of this feature. Is this necessary for setting up gains when a constant frequency is used to get a voltage measurement? Also, how accurate or unnecessary would a clamp meter prove to be? At the moment, I feel I am shopping for a clamp meter with true rms feature. I appreciate your thoughts.

Like the title says I am looking to put 2 12" FI Q's in my 05 ford focus. Ive never built a box but plan on trying to build this one haha. Any recommendation anyone has that would power these 2 well would be great. I currently have a 12 w3v3 hooked up to a TMA 500.1 amp (think thats right). The new box can be either ported or sealed, as i don't mind going across the entire width of the trunk, i will however need to leave the first foot and a half or so of the trunk open for my golf bag( plus room for flex? or mount up?). Thanks for your time guys.

im looking for someone that has ever used a Quantum Audio 4000watt amp or any of the amps at all... im just wondering if that put out anywhere near the rating? thanks

It's been a while since I've used my o-scope and I've read alot on how to set the amp gains but while i've been trying to see the clipping I've had some problems being able see where clipping begins on the h/u. From what i seen it was at 53 on an alpine deh-4000ub as i was setting the gain i barely touched the gain knob and it was in clipping and i dont want to have my h/u at 53 just to get bass. im using a bk precision 2120. i'm running a re -sx 12 in a 35hz box connected to an AQ1200d. can i get some suggestions on the way to set these properly fellas?

I'm helping a friend put together his system. This has to be such a rookie question but its something I've never had to deal with, all my systems I buy decks with enough RCA outputs. He refuses to spend money on a deck. He has a few laying around but only have 1 set of outputs on each deck. He plans to use 2 amps in his system (highs amp and sub amp) what's the best method to do this as far as running the rca's.

Hey guys, I've received good information in my other topic so I thought I'd come back for some more. Got some questions to do with the setting on my sub amp and head unit Currently I'm running a infinity reference 611a amp powering 2 infinity 1050w subs but I'm looking to move up to a single 15". my head unit is a pioneer deh-p80mp and I play all my music off my multi-media player via aux input but the devices output is really quiet so with the way my setup currently is, the maximum I put my head unit to is 55 out of 60. I thought that head units have a point at which they clip but I can't hear any distortion. So I don't know if this is a problem or not. The way the sub a…

I am looking to sell my 2- bc2000-d amps. I am looking to get a single amplifier and was looking to get a Sundown SAZ3500 or SAZ4500. I have had someone offer me a trade for a dd T1 amp. I know currently have no information on this amp but will be researching. Looking for opinions of these. I have not been able to hear one either. It will be for my two Zcon 12's.

I need some help guys/gals. I will most likely be running a set of Focal 165K2P comps and a 12" ED kv.2 sub from Elemental Designs. The sub can handle anywhere from 400-900 watts and the 165k2p's are a 200W max speaker although i have been told they can handle every bit of 200W if done correctly. I would like to buy one nice amp to power both the comps and the sub. the first amp i have found that is capable and in my price range is the SoundStream TR800.5. its a 5 channel amp that does 200x2, 400x1 in bridged mode. Amp specs found here>>> http://shop.store.yahoo.com/discave/trsost5chcar.html This seems like the perfect amount of power for the comps and the sub. I…

if on my battery i am running a 2 gauge wire to my alternator and a 2 gauge wire to my amps coming from the positive battery terminal post, is ok to wire one 0 gauge wire from the battery to the frame or does it have to be (2)-2 guage wires going from the battery's negative terminal post to frame. in the long run after running two batteries i will come up with close to 5 ground wires that needed to be grounded to the frame and i wanted to lighten the load if possible but if not its cool.

Whew... Got my new head unit installed as well as the steering control module, thanks to the help of Electrodynamic. Looks good but the installation of the steering control module (PAC SWI-ALP) was a little more involved than I anticipated. Still very happy will post pics soon!! PS- Sounds really good.

ok o i know how to wire an second batt but my question is about the fusing part... this is what i was planning on doing and please somebody correct me if im wrong or if i need to add another fuseor fuses + from starter batt to + rear batt - from start batt to - rear batt (thats all 0 gauge) then + from rear batt with 0 gauge wire, fuse holder,and fuse to my sub amp then + from rear batt with 4 gauge wire with 4 gauge fuse holder to my front stage speaker amp that mean no fuse under the hood and no fuse b/w batts would that be ok??

Alright so i was fooling around with the options in my headunit and i found something thats called BBE. I looked it up and its a type of processor i think, anyways, i turned it on and everything sounded WAY better, not only louder, but crisper and the midbass also sounded alot better. The ONLY downside i see to this setting so far is that it shuts off at 22/35. Im speachless.

It states 1300 @ 2ohms at 14.4v. I currently have an MD2D on my RL-p 18" @ 2 ohms, but it's only getting around 800 rms. I was thinking of swapping them out, but i'm not to sure on the rated power for the Infinity.

i was wondering since you guys have a bit of experiance, but i have a ford windstar 1996 with a Alpine 9816, was was wondering should i upgrade? cause the am getting attracted to the NEW sony's with Tilt and the Kenwoods with Tilt. would it matter if i changed? make a difference in quality or sound? if so any recommendations on a good HU with tilt.

Ive heard good and Ive herad bad, tell me what you think...Top one is the one I was looking at the 80001NT

I'm running 1 Linear Power 5002iq to 1- 12" sub rated for 500 rms. Linear Power suggests a 60 amp fuse, 1 at the battery and 1 at the amp. The amp has 8 gauge power wire hardwired in to connect to. Do I need to run 4 gauge from the battery to a distribution block or can I get away with 8 gauge from the battery all the way back? Thanks

Are there any good non D class amps that can push my twin RE SE 12s

I am about to start building my system in my ex cab toyota truck. I am not sure if I am going with 2 Fi Q15's or 2 BL15's, fully loaded yet. But I need a amp that puts out around 1000 watts RMS at 1 ohm for around $360. So far I have been looking at these: Hifonics 2600W for around $350 AudioQue AQ2200D for $390 Which one of these should I get or is there any other amp out there in this price range that might be better?

has anybody heard reviews or have used any hifonics brutus amps? are they good? write back

Im needing a good amount of some 14 awg speaker wire for my rebuild. Can anyone point me in the right direction of best product for the money? ive tried a few spots and cant seem to find the quality im looking for. Also I know senchez listed a few places/links to buy things at good prices but cant find that post now...

Just need someone to explain to me what the subwoofer setting does, currently I have it at -10. It sounds really nice at that setting, when I turn it up to 0 or +1..2..3 etc, the bass feels more jumpier and not as nice, what does this setting do, and what should it be set at?