Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

One of the big things that changed while I was gone from car audio is the 4volt plus rca outputs from head units. My situation is I really want to use an Alpine 7904s or 7903s as my source. These units do not have high voltage line outs but can an Audiocontrol Three.1 fix that for me or is there a better way? Pre-Amp Line Driver: Amplifiers require a high voltage input signal (generally 2 to 5 volts) to operate with maximum dynamic range and the best signal-to-noise ratio. On the other hand, typical source units only produce 1 to 2 volts, if your lucky. In a system where the source unit is located in the front of the car and the amplifier(s) are located in the rear, the…

So is there any way i could hook up something so it would be like running 2 4 ohm subs at 2 ohms? I have a single 4 ohm sub and i was wondering if you could put something with it to be able to change the resistance.. Like idek what a resistor really is but it kinda sounds about right... This is probably impossible but i wanted to ask before i recone my sub to single 2 ohm for a third of what i bought it for.. Thanks for any help. This post is really just my imagination at work... So dont criticize too hard... Just a thought

Hy, I want to upgrade my midbass amplifier (focal 165k2p) and I don`t know wich one is better for my set up (alpine 9835, focal k2p mid, hybrid L1 Pro tw). The Hybrids are moved by a small Zapco Z50S2. So: 1.JL 300/4V2 ~200+$ 2.Zapco Z150S2 My link My link2 ~150$ 3.Zapco 350 Driving Force: Stereo, 4 ohms: 2x100 Watts Stereo, 2 ohms: 2x175 Watts Bridged, 4 ohms: 1x350 Watts T.H.D. + Noise: <0.015% S/N Ratio: >95dB Slew Rate: >29V/uS Optically isolated MOSFET power supply Surface mount technology w/1% resistors, precision caps, and massive ground planes ~ 320$

So I'm sick of borrowing other peoples DMM's and O-scopes. Anyone hear anything about this http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=390-500&FTR=390-500 Also can anybody suggest a decently priced handheld O-scope? Thanks, Rick

guys , what does the CAPACITOR do exactly ?? all i know wit capacitors that its some how like a battery , it get charaged , then it charges off givin high current at an interval , :S or am i wrong , any ways , what does it do ,??? thanks for help

im thinking of getting a audioque aq1200d to push a mtx 9510-44 what you guys think

Any recommendations on a trunk mount EQ to get my feet wet with??? I don't need 30 bands; maybe, something with 10 bands to play with. Something with a small footprint...

anyone know the deal on the new Punch amps, other than boring heat sink and more power?

I am looking for an amp between 150-200RMS x 2 at 4ohms for CDT ef-61 components. I am looking to spend under $200. Which of the following would you recomend? I am open to other recomendations. Thanks for the help. Power Acoustik OV2-820 http://www.poweracoustik.com/gothicseries.html 4 Ohm RMS: 180 x 2 Watts Kenwood KAC-7252 170W X 2 RMS (4 Ohms, <1% THD+N) MA AUDIO HK798 http://www.maaudio.com/productview.cfm?pid=2369228 2 x 200W RMS @ 4 Ohm Profile AP1200 http://www.profileusa.com/products_amps_ap.cfm RMS Output Power(4 Ohms)-200 Watts x 2

I just ordered a 1200rms amp from Hifonics, then, on sale I found another hifonics amp of the same class and everything on sale for the same price, but its 1700rms! The 2 subs im running will take 400-500rms each, so I know the amp is overpowered, but should I cancel my order and get the 1700rms??? I wont lose anything, I just need to know if the amp is too powerful? I would like to save the amp for a future more powerful setup. I have a 2000 mustang, and I only play music while the car is turned on, will the 1700 amp be too much to start my car? or will I notice any difference in power even if I keep everything turned down to only be pushing about 800-1000rms??? Pleas…

who here is using the missing link module? has anybody had any problems with it? thinking about getting one for my truck.

i finally took the plunge and vented my box...and i have noticed that the bass output changes per song or cd(which happened with the sealed box also)..some songs are loud and deep and others have nothing?..i was wondering if theses processors really to restore the low end in all recordings..im goin to get into the sd chips for music so i want everything to sound the same..thanks in advance...

here is the situation, i was going to install my new alternator, when i took the belt off the old alt, i noticed something, even though i had all the tensioner down, it didnt come out easily, wasnt a really hard task, but was unusual then, when i installed everything, i was going to put on the belt, but couldnt put it in place, it needed just a bit more to enter, and a friend suggested me to put a longer belt what are your opinions, but would need them fast, need to do it before going to school tomarrow

i was on egay browsing for an amp and came across this RE Audio XT-4000DE V2. seems like a solid amp and price under 350,but wanted to ask about it before i made a decision. XT-4000DE v2 Specifications: Number of Channels 1 Rated Power (RMS) 500W x 1 @ 4 Ohm 800W x 1 @ 2 Ohm 1500W x 1 @ 1 Ohm Total Power 1500W Dynamic Power 4000W Bridgeable No Efficiency (average) 86% @ 4 Ohm 84% @ 2 Ohm 76% @ 1 Ohm Variable Crossover Control Low-Pass: 40-250Hz, 24dB/Octave, Butterworth Variable Bass EQ 30dB Boost @ 45Hz Subsonic Filter 15-40Hz, 24dB/Octave Sig…

ok everything is hooked up right is there a setting on the headunit to turn the subs on or am i fucked

...and what do you like or dislike about it? I am in the market for a DMM. I read here about true rms DMMs after someone mentioned to be aware of this feature. Is this necessary for setting up gains when a constant frequency is used to get a voltage measurement? Also, how accurate or unnecessary would a clamp meter prove to be? At the moment, I feel I am shopping for a clamp meter with true rms feature. I appreciate your thoughts.

Like the title says I am looking to put 2 12" FI Q's in my 05 ford focus. Ive never built a box but plan on trying to build this one haha. Any recommendation anyone has that would power these 2 well would be great. I currently have a 12 w3v3 hooked up to a TMA 500.1 amp (think thats right). The new box can be either ported or sealed, as i don't mind going across the entire width of the trunk, i will however need to leave the first foot and a half or so of the trunk open for my golf bag( plus room for flex? or mount up?). Thanks for your time guys.

im looking for someone that has ever used a Quantum Audio 4000watt amp or any of the amps at all... im just wondering if that put out anywhere near the rating? thanks

It's been a while since I've used my o-scope and I've read alot on how to set the amp gains but while i've been trying to see the clipping I've had some problems being able see where clipping begins on the h/u. From what i seen it was at 53 on an alpine deh-4000ub as i was setting the gain i barely touched the gain knob and it was in clipping and i dont want to have my h/u at 53 just to get bass. im using a bk precision 2120. i'm running a re -sx 12 in a 35hz box connected to an AQ1200d. can i get some suggestions on the way to set these properly fellas?

I'm helping a friend put together his system. This has to be such a rookie question but its something I've never had to deal with, all my systems I buy decks with enough RCA outputs. He refuses to spend money on a deck. He has a few laying around but only have 1 set of outputs on each deck. He plans to use 2 amps in his system (highs amp and sub amp) what's the best method to do this as far as running the rca's.

Hey guys, I've received good information in my other topic so I thought I'd come back for some more. Got some questions to do with the setting on my sub amp and head unit Currently I'm running a infinity reference 611a amp powering 2 infinity 1050w subs but I'm looking to move up to a single 15". my head unit is a pioneer deh-p80mp and I play all my music off my multi-media player via aux input but the devices output is really quiet so with the way my setup currently is, the maximum I put my head unit to is 55 out of 60. I thought that head units have a point at which they clip but I can't hear any distortion. So I don't know if this is a problem or not. The way the sub a…

Hey I'm gonna try and not make this a versus thread. I'm selling my profile cl1200 (shut up) and am looking for an upgrade. It's going to power 2 10" L5's (ported) so I'm basically looking for a solid 800~1kW dclass @ 1 or 4 ohm. My price range is anywhere from 200-300. Right now my current choices are an Autotek SX-900X. http://www.thezeb.com/p-Autotek-SX-900X-Mo...fier-106630.htm soundstream ega 900d http://www.cardomain.com/item/SSTEGA900D those both do 900w rms at 1ohm or.... an infinity 1210a, 854w (or something) CEA rated at 4ohm...2ohm stable (i think it does 1300 or something). anyhow, they're all relatively the same price. I need some VALID opinions here. …

I am looking to sell my 2- bc2000-d amps. I am looking to get a single amplifier and was looking to get a Sundown SAZ3500 or SAZ4500. I have had someone offer me a trade for a dd T1 amp. I know currently have no information on this amp but will be researching. Looking for opinions of these. I have not been able to hear one either. It will be for my two Zcon 12's.

if on my battery i am running a 2 gauge wire to my alternator and a 2 gauge wire to my amps coming from the positive battery terminal post, is ok to wire one 0 gauge wire from the battery to the frame or does it have to be (2)-2 guage wires going from the battery's negative terminal post to frame. in the long run after running two batteries i will come up with close to 5 ground wires that needed to be grounded to the frame and i wanted to lighten the load if possible but if not its cool.

ok o i know how to wire an second batt but my question is about the fusing part... this is what i was planning on doing and please somebody correct me if im wrong or if i need to add another fuseor fuses + from starter batt to + rear batt - from start batt to - rear batt (thats all 0 gauge) then + from rear batt with 0 gauge wire, fuse holder,and fuse to my sub amp then + from rear batt with 4 gauge wire with 4 gauge fuse holder to my front stage speaker amp that mean no fuse under the hood and no fuse b/w batts would that be ok??