Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

are the hifonics amps still any good would anyone recommend them i had one about 4 years ago and it was stout its in my friends car and still playing. do they still do they still put out as much as they claim

I am adding a second battery and a bigger amp. I need about 25 feet of 1/0 wire. My question is whats the best place to get it from? Also, I see people not liking KnuKonceptz wire. What is up with that? Is it really not worth the $1.75 a foot they want? Is it better to buy from a welding supply company for about $2 a foot? I know these probably sound dumb, but I've only dealt with 4 gauge in the past, which you can get anywhere. Thanx guys

So If I have the ZED Leviathan amp and the AudioControl DQL-8, and they both have crossovers. 1. Which would you use, the crossover in the ZED amp or the crossover in the AC DQL-8's? 2. Why? BTW the Leviathan and EQL-8 are going into two(2) sets of Bravox Audio CS60K components and one(1) SSA DCON 12D4. Please don't recommend anything other than the two crossovers available in the two units mentioned. TIA!

Gain matching two sub amps... as easy as eyeballing it, right? If not.. details?

Noticed one of my 40 amp fuses on my 1500d is fuzzy looking on the left inside part of it. I'm not trying to damage anything, so I'm wondering what's the proper way to remove a fuse without causing anything else to break? Thanks, Nick

Just wondering how many of you guys actually use these things..

So my car has been dieing after sitting overnight. It won't start in the morning. I have been leaving it on the charger overnight. I have an Optima Red Top under the hood and a 55ah SR12-205FR Super Rate Series in the trunk. I took the trunk batt out at Autozone and the guy tried to test it and said it was at 10.xx volts and he couldn't run the test with it that low. He said that I have to do a trickle charge on this batt, it can't be charged with a regular charge. Is this true? Then we tested the red top (with the trunk batt still disconected) and it was resting at 12.41 volts and read as a bad batt. The Autozone guy said it should be around 12.45 volts and I should tri…

Looking to get a 40 amp fuse for my sundown 1500d. Looking online I can't tell wether I need and ATC fuse or a MAXI fuse, just wanna make sure I get the right one. Thanks, Nick

So far I'm loving the new system but I've noticed with some songs (the loudest) and also at idle my voltage can drop down to 12v. It always jumps back up to 13.8+ volts after the bass hits... Should I be concerned? I still need to upgrade a ground under the hood, hoping that will help a bit.

My lights don't dim or anything, maybe slightly if i crank it up. but its an 05 Civic, stock alt and battery...is there still any concerns i should be aware of? my amps: JLA 400/4 (using 75x2 currently) class a/b MTX 1501d (using about 1400 watts, 1.33ohm load) class d 4 guage power. Overall, system seems fine, nothing cutting out..etc. The OEM alt is a Mitsubishi, no idea how many amps it pushes but i'd be suprised if its over 100a. if lights don't dim, is it ok?

Hey all.Im going to be getting an AQ2200 amp soon and I was told I need to get another battery.I kinda figured I would need another battery but Im worried my alternator wont be able to keep up.As it is right now my head lights and other lights dimm when I have my music up with a autotek 1500 watt amp.My car is a 1977 Oldsmoblie Delta 88.The alternator is a remanufactured one and I have no clue how many amps it is putting out.I know the alternator isn't that old.So my question is if I put another battery and a AQ2200 amp in will the alternator handle it or will I need another one or what?I haven't done the big 3 yet as im not enterly sure of what it consists of but I know …

im interested in some opinions on the best option for 7000 rms, looking for a good balance of power requirement and price, any other suggestions welcome, this is what i have come up with so far... stetsom 7k - 1700 dual sundown 3500's - 2000 american bass vfl 500.1 - 1600

hey guys. quick opinion thread. I already have my big 3 done and 1 run of power from back to front with 1/0. I have a DC HO alt on its way 200 at idle. i have 2X XS D3100 now and an optima red top onder the hood i will be replacing soon. my new setup will consist of 2X Sundown 2500D witch i already have. my sub stage is a supprise only some of you know lol. My question is... do you guys think with me upgreading all my wire to Welding wire is actually nessessary? my plan is to change my big3 with all 4/0 wire. and have 2 runs of 3/0 power front to back. i am not worried about the $200+ i am spending on the supplies i need including the wire. I am just cerious to see what …

Hey guys. So I am going to be running 2 Crunch GP3000D's here in the near future and I am wondering what the benefit of strapping the amps vs. running one amp to a pair of subs? My subs are/will be dual 1 ohm coils so I can wire each sub to 2ohm and let the amp take it to a 1 ohm final load or I can strap the amps and wire all the subs to 2ohm final load. IMO, It would be easier to wire the subs to 2ohm and then run wire from 2 subs in to one amp and repeat for the other subs and amp. Since I have never strapped amps, I am curious what the benefit would be and would it be worth the extra work to try and multiple wires to the sub terminals.

hey guys..im about to order some 1/0 to do the big 3 in, and was wondering if it was worth the extra money to buy welding cable, or if knu 1/0 would do the same thing. Im only asking because i've heard some people say bad things about knu because its not pure copper. Also..do you think 15 feet would be enough..its on a 01 cavalier. Thanks!

Those amps put out rated right? was Looking into the tarantula series and D-tower

I need a 5/6 channel amp for one of my cars. I need about 75-150 or so watts per channel on channels 1-4, and a 5th (or 5th and 6th bridged) channel to run a sub with 500-1000 watts. I was looking at the following: US Amps AX-5600 US Amps USA-5600x (getting hard to find) Hifonics Zeus ZXi60.4 + 1k Memphis Belle 16-MCH1300 The only problem with the latter two is that they are most likely made in China... which is a huge turn off for me given my recent experience with chinese made amps. Anyone have any other suggestions? Sub is unimportant at the moment, as it will be picked after the amp is. I'm trying to stay under $500, if possible, but that is not a hard cap. I alos wan…

So i'm sure many of you have heard this question before but i cant seem to find a good answer.. I'm running an Fi bl 15, on a sundown sae 1200d in my scion tc. Big 3 is done. Stock battery is some kind of panasonic. It seems that its not regenerating power quick enough or something. I will start my car in the morning and be at like 13.8 volts, and start it up a few hours later and be at like 13.4 upon startup. I want to be at a consistent higher number than this. Also how can i prevent my voltage from dropping so low when at loud volumes, getting tired of seeing it drop in the mid 11's and having to worry about it. I was going to get an optima yellow top but dont really …

i have been looking between two hifonics amps a bxi 2608/2610 Hifonics BXi 2610D 2600W RMS, Brutus BXi Series Class D Monoblock Amplifier (BXi2610D) and a hifonics xx colossus 2 HIFONICS XX-COLOSSUS-II MONOBLOCK/2-CHAN AMPLIFIER AMP: eBay Motors (item 290460649039 end time Sep-02-10 13:47:47 PDT) (only link with all stats i will prob buy new)

Well i sent the piece of junk db electric alternator back and went for a dc. cant wait for it to show up ill be sure to get pictures and even a video. from everything i see it should be awesome cant wait.

I'm trying to help find my friend a us amps xt-2000. I'm looking specifically for the older models which had 90 amps of fusing and did rated power. They used to be for sale on ebay for around $120 but now the only site i can find it for sale on is woofersetc and it's like over 300 bucks. So if you guys could find any legit sites with this amp for sale please let me know. Thanks

Alrighty! So after installing a cd player in my girlfriend's car some of the dash lights dont turn on. The door open, brights, blinker, etc. (square lights for some warning or another) all work, but not the lights that light up the speedo, tach, or temp. gauge. I had the - terminal disconnected while doing all this wiring, BUT i may have effed up when i tied two wires into one. Reason for doing that was the wiring diagram i was looking at said that they both were for illumination, so i figured they both needed to be plugged in to the CD player's illumination light. Would this have caused hell for my wiring? I've checked the fuses and changed the only one that was blown,…

well we built a wall, the amp is currently fairly far away form the subs, about 6 feet of speaker wire goes to each sub, we are currently using cheap 14 gauge speaker wire LOL, but we are pulling a 152.7@1800 watts clamped, my guess is we would gain quite a bit by changing out speaker wire, what would you guys recomend? there are 4 dd 1500 series 12" subs hooked up to a planet audio 3000 wired to half ohm in a wall. looking for the best speaker wire that will transfer the power most effectivly for the long 6 ft run. thanks, Anton Miller

I am looking to get a new head unit. I wanted to ask the experts first. Is this one any good? 4 volt preamps. 6 channel preamp outputs. etc. http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_613KDCX494/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X494.html?ssi=0&tp=13566&tab=features_and_specs

I'll be running a SAZ 2500D and a SAX 100.4. The 2500 will be at 1 ohm and the 100.4 will be at 2 ohms. So that's roughly 3140 watts. I have about a 50 ah battery up front, will have a 100 ah battery in the back (deka intimidator 9A31), and I will have the big three. Will I need a high output alternator? I'm not sure what my alternator is rated for. I'm guessing its between 60-100 amps. I have a Chevy 1500 1990 4.3L V6 w/AC.