Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

How do you prevent clipping, like prevent your head unit/source from sending a clipped signal and your amp from clipping a signal

basically i just wanna no all the wires i will need for my system consisting of 2 subs, 2 amps, components, and a big 3 upgrade. what i have listed is: 1/0 knukonceptz power/ground for the amps to the battery and the big 3 upgrade. 10 gauge speaker wire for the amp to the speakers. 1 question i have about the speakers is do i hook up the crossover to the amp then the crossover to the speaker? and all with speaker wire? also do i use RCA cables or speaker wire to connect the sub to the amp? and finally do i use RCA cables to go from the amps to the head unit? if i got anything wrong please tell me. any help is appreciated!! thanks!

I have a RF T1500-1BDCP that once it is powered up its thermal light is lit very dim. The amp still delivers sound (and tons of it) and the protect light does not come on. It does this once the amp has power ground and accessory wires connected and radio is turned on. The system has runs of 0gauge KunKoncepts (+ and -), big 3 0gauge, optimum red top up front. Alt is 110 amp soon to be upgraded. I tested the wiring with an old P300-1 and it didn't have the thermal light show. I checked ground, and voltage and both were good. Anybody ever seen this happen? Even though the rest of the system wasn't connected yet it is pushing 1 FI BL 10" (fully loaded) running at 2 ohm. let …

I've always been against it, because it seems like it would vibrate the living fuck out of the guts and possibly make parts become loose and resulting in the amp being faulty. BUT! I am tight on space, and might have to do so. So i was wondering if everyone who has done this before can tell me if their amp(s) had a problem, if so what problem and/or if the amp was fine. Please include name(s) of equipment! Thank you!

I am buying a yellow top from my friend. It is taller than my original battery and the wires won't reach.

Yesterday we put the stereo in my cousin's Silverado. We had a remote wire problem and need to pull the HU out today. We noticed last night that his dome lights won't turn off now, even after pulling the key and shutting the doors for a while. It's never done this before until now, is there any chance fixing the remote wire will solve this problem?? Thanks

Ok guys just wondering what you would recommend me I can do on my current electrical. Currently I have an 18 Fi Bl d2 running with a sundown Saz-1500d. My electical consists of the big three being done in 1/0 gauge and an optima yellow top up front with around 1000 ca and a newer Ford 700ca battery in back. I am just looking for a setup to get lower and louder than the BL can. The Bl is in a 7.3ish cu ft book tuned at like 31-32 hz. Currently my headlights lights have almost no dimming whatsoever so I know I have a decent electrical. My budgets right around 800. So I'm looking into selling the BL on here and getting the BTL. I'd probably end up building a new box for the …

So I'm getting ready to do my wiring and I came across: http://www.remybattery.com/Departments/Cable--Accessories/Connectors--Lugs-and-Terminals/Compression-Connectors.aspx the battery terminals look pretty cool... Any thoughts on compression terminals? Pretty secure?

So my friend bought a Lanzar MaxP1200 (for some reason) and he proceeded to changes his (3) 30A fuses to (3) 40A fuses because he said that the bigger the fuse the better. Now, in my head it seems like the amp was rated at 90A for a reason but i dont know shit about fuses. So, by changing the fuses, is he screwing things up?

My current car is running off the stock 80 amp alternator. I am planning on soon putting 1200 watts RMS through the system. How will I know if I need an extra battery, or new alternator, or what? Thanks.

so i was diggin around in the garage and found an old amp that my dad had for his car back in the day. and it says its a pyramid audio class a bridgeable amp. that is 200 watts x 2 channels. and im curious if anyone here has even used this amp before? its ancient lol but my dad said it worked when he used to. he just doesn't remember anything about it. anyone got any ideas about it or anything? specs i mean ANYTHING would be awesome, i was just gonna play around with it so i mean whatever lol thanks everyone (btw not trying to affend anyone saying its ancient im young but i still love you oldies ) Uploaded with ImageShack.us

ok everything is hooked up right is there a setting on the headunit to turn the subs on or am i fucked

I have looked all over and can not find a high output alternator for a 2006 Nissan Sentra 1.8L. Any help?

I just got my system up and running a lil while ago, now I have a problem. I had a Maxxlink in, but the subs were barely moving, though quite loud. I had the input level set correctly, and wired up just as the manual diagrammed. So I decided to take it out and see how it would be with just 2 sets of strapped amps (4 SAZ-3000d's). I only have one set of rcas going back from the hu, so I got some rca splitters so I could get rcas to the other master amp. Now, I'm getting a ringing out of the subs, sounds almost like a 1000hz tone or something. The pitch also increases as I get on the throttle. I also have quite a bit less output than when the Maxxlink was in. So I've been …

i have a kenwood KDC-MP245 in my 1997 honda accord with no subs hooked up just my alpine sps-600 speakers in the doors and when i turn it up and the bass hits the head unit will start dimming but not the head lights. does anyone know why this is happening?

hey everyone! i just finished building my first box today for my ssa icon and couldnt be happier. i bought the sub and amp used and i believe that the settings on the amp are off a bit. the sub hits the lows great (i tuned the box fairly low) but when it comes to even remotely high notes that should rattle my teeth out there is almost nothing there! and example is white girl but usda...it hits that low note like a champ but when it comes to the high one the door speakers are louder than the sub. i did some research and am thinking it has something to do with the low pass frequency and high pass frequency? also i have the gain turned all the way up...that was the only …

So today i received a nice new 220amp DB electrical alternator since my stocker finally fell victim to the 3500D. After a 5 hour install process which is considered fast on a mazda tribute........ i start the car up and hear a big old grinding noise coming from it. Needless to say i am highly pissed at the situation and they best have a new one at my dorr very quick. Anyone else had experience with them? I herd alot of good things and for the price its not bad at all. Anyways expect a new video with 4 agms and a new alt soon if i ever get it fixed..... should be a good little gain.

I am never one to cut corners, on the flip side I am one to over build. I am ditching Iraggi alternators cuz their service SUCKS and I am going excessive amperage. I will be getting another HO alt and 2 more big AGM batteries and doing some more runs of ott. 1st off, do you guys recommend I get a missinglinkaudio voltage regulator? Anyway, should I get dual 4 ohm XXXs for the VAN and go 2 ohm, or should I run dual 2 at 1 ohm since I should have good electrical to back it up? I have heard stay 2 ohm, and I think that is what I will do. It's already too loud as it is 99% of the time.. my ears hurt and get numb on a daily basis and I know it's stupid. But when i'm showing o…

So acouple weeks ago I had a viper r350 installed in my truck and I took the liberty of ordering two Directed 515r backup battery sirens... I tested them now with the included keys and they're pretty loud. My ears were pulsating. Well I'm reading the instructions on them now and could use some help...There are 4 wires on the unit itself: red - +12v, fused at 5amps, constant source black - ground violet - "(+) Siren Input: Connect this wire to the (+) siren output of the security system. If using a DEI security system, this would be the brown (+) siren output wire." green - "(-) Siren Input: If using a security system with a (-) siren output, connect this wire to the sys…

i am currently running 1 ea.pos and neg 1/0 ga wire from the front to the back, would adding just 1 more pos run help or do i need to add the neg also and keep them even? Can you have more pos than neg? Good or bad?

A buddy of mine just got a new 2010 Silverado. He took the old head-unit out of his other truck to put in this truck. The HU is a pioneer in-dash double din, not sure which model but it's fairly new. His harness for the old truck (an older silverado 00-05) is not the same for this new truck. We've looked everywhere for a compatible harness but cannot find one. The stereo also doesn't fit where stock double din was, so I guess we will need a dash kit too. Any help would be VERY appreciated. These new vehicles piss me off.. Here is the stock stereo

so I just upgraded my sub and amp. I went from two MTX Roadthunder 12's in a prefab with a Bazooka EL500.1 amp to A DD2510 in a custom ported box with JBL GTO7001 amp. I bought it from my friend. it was loud in his car (a neon) but not quite as loud as my old crappier 12's in my car( a camry). Nothing has changed about the setup except what car its in. My head unit is a JVC KW-NX7000, if that has anything to do with it. We just put it in today and I'm kind of a noob at car audio( I can wire stuff up, I'm just not as versed in the intricacies of it all). I haven't really messed with the settings on the amp yet. Right now it has a nice clear bump for when I listen to rock b…

I just swapped my 2 Sundown Audio SAZ-3000d's for 2 3500's but im getting much less volume, 2.5 v drop, subs are heating up fast, excursing lots, and even music mute amps are getting warmer than they should, one particularly more than the other. Im at a loss! please any info will be helpful!

So last night I sat down and made a small list of wiring and accessories I'll need to get my saz 3500d powered. I'll be running one battery upfront and two in the back. The extra 0 gauge is for the big 3...Any advice on better products or a cheaper source would be appreciated.. http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinger-SPD5203-Pro-Classic-ANL-0%7B47%7D4-Gauge-Inline-Fuse-Holder.html x 3 @ $35 - 3 fuse holders http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Tsunami-5-Pack-Gold-ANL-Fuses-%28Choose-Size%29.html x 1 - $8 - 5 300amp fuses http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinger-SHI2120-HPM-1-RCA-Cable-20FT.html x 2 - $24 - 20ft rcas http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinge…

If one's amp would be clipping, resulting in a blown sub, is it a permanent issue? Or does the gain, bass eq, and other filters need to be tuned to insure that it won't happen with the new sub?