Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Some guy on CL is selling one locally. 3x 4v pre outs. RCA input (with $5 cable from ebay) remote, ipod hookup, etc. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11105_Pioneer-Premier-DEH-P500UB.html It's also steering control ready which would be cool. I just need the panel for my steering wheel but I think it would be worth it. Also, I noticed I can either get this thing (Pioneer CD-RB20 -Use for Pass -Thru IP-Bus for MCD Player Connectiom) Or this. or this (Pioneer IP-Bus to RCA, 3.5mm) Is there any advantage of having the module vs the other ones? BTW I'm on the stock unit and all I need is a 3.5mm and 3x preouts.

I've been in the market for a new head unit with a screen. I can't get a double din so i would have to get a flip out. Multiple have people have told me to not get a flip out because of my subs. They said subs will greatly damage them. Any truth to this?

Would I fry the amp if I have the Big 3, stock alt, and a 2nd battery if I ran a saz-1500D at 1 ohm for daily?

Aren't they about the same as far as power? I currently have an RE12.1, but I was kinda looking at the NINe.1 cause I can get a matching NINe.2. I know it's kinda silly, but I like my things to match. Is there a reason one would be better than the other?

i have been looking into going into after market for my car alarm and i have looked at reviews and a lot of them point out the Viper 5901. I know with the viper alarms you have to have them installed by a professional installer in order to retain the warranty. I am just looking for an alarm that will notifiy me if my vehcile is getting broken into etc, shock sensors are a plus as well as other cool features but if there are better out there for the price then let me know. Thanks in advance, just looking to get something that i could run outside and catch the person in the act and or call the cops etc.

Hey guys, i was looking into batteries for the near future because my stock one just isnt really doing it for me right now. The well known XS brand stuck out to me, and i saw that their batteries have beastly current output, but i was also looking at Optima batteries, and i wasn't sure which is the better of the two. XS has more output for current, but Optima has a "gel layered top", whatever the hell that means. I'm leaning toward XS but if anyone can explain to me the pros and cons of each battery, and whatever the heck gel layered top means, it would greatly be appreciated!

Just ordered up my HO Alt from www.mechman.com =). This guy was referred to me by scottiej from powermaster and he has like every alt ya need and they are darn good prices. Got a 250 amp alt btw =). I guess they aren't like regular HO Alts that just get the windings replaced... they are actually like larger alts that fit into the stock locations and don't sag at low rpms like most HO's do. Great guy and I would recommend him to anyone =) THANKS SCOTTIE!

Simple question really. I know setting your gain with HU at around 75% is going to give you the best voltage output without distortion from your HU to your amp. That being said, with my current Grand Cherokee Limited infinity stock speakers 75% sounds like ass. (stock speakers get too loud) Btw, I'm setting the gain for my sub amp a RD 1750.1 at .5 ohms to a Treo SSX 12 with a Shuriken BT100 in the back. All 0 gauge and big 3 is done. HU is Alpine CDA-9886 with Subwoofer level and Bass/Treble. Also has a HPF which I'm not too sure actually does anything. I thought it would keep bass from going to my stock speakers? That's besides the point. Basically, my question is if …

Okay guys.... Your assistance is needed once again... I had my equipment installed by a buddy and since I had planned at the time to run my Kenwood amp at 1 ohm with a 15" Kicker L7 my buddy dropped in a RF 1 farad capacitor while we hooked this all up... I already know this negatives here and so I would like to remove this while I do my amplifier swap hopefullly this weekend.... Here is the big $100k question: How do I discharge the capacitor? I will disconnect the power from the battery and then remove the capacitor fully as I understand it... But I don't want this light bomb sitting in my apartment with energy being stored... only found this link .... Should I ju…

Its all in the title.. How do the mean machines run at 0.67ohms if they can at all? THANKS

I'm getting my fully loaded Fi BTL N2 18'' soon. I'm still not sure what amp to get without overpowering or under powering the BTL. Do you think 1 Rockford t2500bdcp would be too much for it (it put out 2500watts at 1ohm and 2 ohm)?? Or also im thinking about getting 2 rockford T1000bdcp's (which puts out 1000watts at 1ohm or 2ohm) and hooking up one amp on each coil on the BTL. Let me know what you guys think Thank you

So I got my JL 500/1 for my sub setup Friday, didn't have time to install it til today... One issue... The amp doesn't seem to kick in until I hit about 50% of max on my Pioneer HU.. I know it is not the HU because it was beatin' in the morning with my old setup (Kenwood).. Two things happened when doing the "swap" of amplifiers... 1. Apparently one of the ring terminals on the wiring was shitty, and came out... 2. I replaced the terminal with a new one I bought at BestBuy just so I could get it done... When installing this onto the capacitor that was already in my car I accidentally touched the wire to both ends... Spark and sizzle but everything seemed ok... Now again..…

I saw kicker had a line of install accessories, power kits, brass hardware and rca's i see some vauge explanations of the products, but is there an indepth view of what each of these kits come with... for example the 1/o gauge multi amp kit... i see some pics with it including battery terminals... are these included?? stillwater help!

I'm trying to find a very small mono amplifier to power an 8" Kicker CVT at 2 ohms. The chassis itself needs to be very small as I plan to mount it above a wheel well hidden. I'm looking for 200 watts, any ideas guys?

I tried emailing powerbass on how to get some XA 3000D amps, I need to run 2 12" MT for street b. I was wondering, where I can possibly buy one from?

OK, here is scenario- Got a 20A relay on remote turn on wire with 3 amps and some leds on it. The 15A fuse on the relay popped today... that means it drew WAY too much current... i have a short somewhere... I check- 3 wires were pulled out of the remote turn on distro block that was reading ground.... 1 of these wires is an LED wire. The other 2 wires go to my sundown 100.4 and the other wire goes to both AQ3500Ds remote turn on... The LED wire reads 0.0 ohms and the turn on wires for all 3 amps are reading 0.2 ohms.... Is the remote turn on's grounded? Did the led wire cause a massive surge through all the remote turn ons?

After retihinkin my budget I think Im going to go with one sa8, only problem is I cant seem to find many small amps for 400-600 rms. Anybody have a suggestions? I see kicker has a 600 and so does alpine but there lots of$$$

I have been looking around for some suggestion for electrical upgrade on a budget? I have been told to do a big three for voltage drops and light dimming but i am still getting some mixed reviews about that. I was wondering if running a second battery would help with light dimming and voltage drops. Im not really looking to spend more than around 2-300 at this time. Im running a zeus 3000 watt amp to 2 12 inch pioneers. Car is a 2002 honda accord dx.

whats a good 4 channel or a 2 channel amp i have alpine type r speakers or should i just get new speakers while im at it too? need some help

I'll be running a Fully Active front stage and am intrigued by what options Sony's 2011 headunits have to offer. Does anyone have any experience with it any of them that can comment on Sound Quality and Build Quality. The one i'm interested in is: DSX-S310BTX http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158DSX310B/Sony-DSX-S310BTX.html?tp=5684#details-tab http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921666372151#specifications 7 Band EQ Time alignment/LowPass/HighPass 4 Volt Preouts (front, rear, subwoofer) Bluetooth Pandora Radio Capabilities Front USB 17x4 rms (wish it was more but that's what i get …

well just like the topic title suggests i have a problem with my amp. i have 2 2400's and i strapped them to my FI BTL 18. one amp per coil. amps are stable to 2 ohms i have dual 2 ohm coils. now im pretty sure the amps dont truley strap together but they have the slave copy master switch to match gains and xovers well i set them up how the book said and it was workin but just didnt sound like i had 2 amps on the sub. so i started foolin with the switches. well needless to say i messed up onw of the amps and also blew my sub, both coils. now one amp is fine and works perfectly it was the master amp. the slave amp still works but when i turn the LPF up it makes a buzzi…

i was wondering since you guys have a bit of experiance, but i have a ford windstar 1996 with a Alpine 9816, was was wondering should i upgrade? cause the am getting attracted to the NEW sony's with Tilt and the Kenwoods with Tilt. would it matter if i changed? make a difference in quality or sound? if so any recommendations on a good HU with tilt.

Hello everyone, its my birthday on Monday, June 1 and for a present im getting POWER ACOUSTIK BAMF5500/1D 5500W MONO CLASS D AMPLIFIER. Here are some specs # Amplifier Class : Class D # Number of Channels : 1-Channel # Maximum Power : 5500 Watts # RMS Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 1700 Watts x 1 Channel # RMS Power Output @ 2 Ohms : 2500 Watts x 1 Channel # RMS Power Output @ 1 Ohms : 3200 Watts x 1 Channel # Bridged Power : N/A # THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) : 0.5% # Signal-to-Noise Ratio (dB) : 100dB # Frequency Response (Hz) : 15Hz~150hz # Built-in Crossover : N/A # Subsonic Crossover Frequency : 20Hz-50hz # Low-Pass Crossover Frequency : 40Hz~200Hz # Bass Boost : 0dB~18…

Anyone remember these? RFX8250? The major HU boner from a year or two ago? Anyway, I bought one on sale from Sounddomain and have been using it for maybe a year and a half. The other day, the aux input suddenly decided to stop working, and I don

I am looking for an amp between 150-200RMS x 2 at 4ohms for CDT ef-61 components. I am looking to spend under $200. Which of the following would you recomend? I am open to other recomendations. Thanks for the help. Power Acoustik OV2-820 http://www.poweracoustik.com/gothicseries.html 4 Ohm RMS: 180 x 2 Watts Kenwood KAC-7252 170W X 2 RMS (4 Ohms, <1% THD+N) MA AUDIO HK798 http://www.maaudio.com/productview.cfm?pid=2369228 2 x 200W RMS @ 4 Ohm Profile AP1200 http://www.profileusa.com/products_amps_ap.cfm RMS Output Power(4 Ohms)-200 Watts x 2