Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Is the wire from the alternator supposed to be connected to the positive or negative battery terminal?

Hey guys, this is a question for Dave Edwards but I want everyone else to chime in too. I am considering going with an MTX 81000d or 1501 amp. The question at hand is, if i went with the MTX 81000d I'm gonna get a modded version. Since its modded would i have a higher chance of blowing the amp? Does anyone know anything about the 81000d? Now for the 1501amp... can u modd it to 1ohm? If I do.... what is the possiblity of me blowing that? Does anyone know the rating on the 1501 if u did drop it to 1ohms? And finally..... can the 81000d be runned daily? Has anyone had experiance with them? Help me out

Which is a legit website to buy a BNIB Alpine 9887, not refurbished. OCS: Alpine CDA-9887 In-Dash Receivers with Bluetooth - Video/Multimedia at Onlinecarstereo.com -says brand new sealed in factory box -seems as though reviews of this site goes both ways. PowersellerNYC: PowersellerNYC - Alpine CDA-9887 CDA-9887 CD/MP3/WMA/AAC Receiver -says refurbished and for the same money OCS is advertising its making me think OCS's may be refurbished as well. -not sure on the sites credibility DCCA: Alpine CDA-9887 CD/MP3/WMA/AAC Receiver - iPhone Compatible -says BNIB factory sealed -reviews on this site go both ways as well ASW: Alpine CDA-9887 CD, MP3, WMA PLAYER -doesn't say…

I'm in need of either a 2 or 4 channel amp to drive my 6x8s and 8" midbass speakers. I'm only used to mono sub amps so this question may seem silly. My concern is I want to set a High and low crossover for the midbass. A range like 80 to 250hz while the 6x8's play 250hz and up. A) Do 4 channel amps allow you to set a high and low x-over at the same time? B) Can I just use a 2 Channel amp and buy passive crossovers that will send 80-250hz to the midbass and 250hz and up to the 6x8s?

yup so basically this is why i own 5 of them total now and for being under 150 dollars u cannot beat it

I'll be running a sundown 1200D and a sundown 100.4D to a Fi BL 12'' and a set of hertz HSK 165's Going in a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500. Big 3 will be done The battery that I have now is a Autocraft Silver.. It says on the top something like crank amps at 32 degrees is 935 The alternator that's on there is this: Think I'll be good, or should I get a yellowtop to put under the hood?

i was wondering if i could power one rl-p 18 with an aq2200d. would i get the sub in d4 and wire it in parallel to get a 2 ohm load, (which is 1300watts ). or should i get d2 and wire it in series to get a 4 ohm load? (740 watts) the soundsplinter website says 500 to 1000watts.

i wonder if it will be ok with a 1.3 ohm load... a friend wants me to put three single 4 pr12's in his x-cab ranger, he already has the mtx....so what do ya think?? 1.3 close enuff to 2 ohm to be alright?? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

looking for people with recent experience with them, I am interested in the APA2160, fiarly sweet amp from their CES show car, but I am wondering why their prices are so low in many places??

I am in the market for a new alarm with remote start, this will be going in my mustang. I'm going to have it professionally installed by a friends shop. Currently What I am looking for is an alarm with remote start, two way pager, a decent range 1000-1500ft, 2-Way remote with tone and vibe modes. I am looking into the Avital 5303, but I would prefer a remtoe that actually includes all the buttons into one but is not exactly required. I am looking for some suggestion and reviews. Price I would like to hit would be around 200-300 for the alarm its self. Thanks.

im going to purchase one now so which would be "better". this is one part of the upgrade im going to get 2 ssa icons d1 and wire each to half ohm so i need help choosing which one max looking for $500 on an amp.

would i be able to use my moto q to make adjustments on this unit?? i currently have no eq and processing (other than that on my panasonic 8305) would i notice a great difference in sound by installing this?? my current setup: pg rsd6.5 old school hifonics 2x100 rms 3 12" hx2 t20001bd would this really put a smile on my face or will i regret buying it?? thanks for the help guys

hey all i am looking to upgrade from my us amps xt1600.2 which i recently found out is highly over rated (noob purchase..my bad) to something with a more true rms rating. i am looking to spend about $250 tops and although i know that is not a very big budget i just need something that pushes closer to the 1000rms rating of my ssa icon 12''. i am looking at hifonics brand amps and have come across these two. http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/HIFONICS-BRUTUS-BRZ1200.1D-1200w-MONO-AMPLIFIERAMP-KIT/BRZ1200.1D---XK4B1.aspx and http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/HIFONICS-HFI1500D-1500W-MONO-CLASS-D-AMPLIFIERAMP-KIT/HFI1500D---XK4B1.a…

ok o i know how to wire an second batt but my question is about the fusing part... this is what i was planning on doing and please somebody correct me if im wrong or if i need to add another fuseor fuses + from starter batt to + rear batt - from start batt to - rear batt (thats all 0 gauge) then + from rear batt with 0 gauge wire, fuse holder,and fuse to my sub amp then + from rear batt with 4 gauge wire with 4 gauge fuse holder to my front stage speaker amp that mean no fuse under the hood and no fuse b/w batts would that be ok??

I'm looking for a nice 2 channel amp to power my new IA components. I was browsing and found a soundstream rubicon 2 channel that Puts out 130x2 at 4 ohms and 225x2 at 2 ohms. What do you guys think? Are they decent amps? I found one for like 135. Any insight would help.

cant afford car audio batts till end of summer but have 4 batts with 1100 cranking amps and 5 with 800 cranking amps with 270a ho alt , are all these enough for 2 bc3500s strapped to 2 ohms. big 3 and 3 runs pos and 3 neg front to back all 0 gauge

i will have proper electrical and everything just want to know some good amps to push these two subs.

Which is better Passive or Active? After askin on other threads i figured out the difference, but not sure which one is best. All i can figure is Passive would be better because you can use one channel of amplification and get 2 or 3 way crossover, and have that one channel power 2 or 3 speakers. So = better use of power. For Active you need one channel for one speaker. so more power is required by needing more channels, but that give you more control, right? Will one sound better than the other?

Is USAcoustics Still Around Just wondering as cant find any where that sell them on the net and they haven't updated their site since 2004. http://www.usacoustics.com/

Well I been wanting to upgrade and been looking into a lot of stuff and pretty much came down to a whole new system lol. But I been thinking and I have this nice 9887 HU installed with HSK165 up front and currently using the passive crossovers. I figured why not try running them active? huh why not so I been looking up info on a active system and now looks like I need a new amp in order to do this. So I've been digging around for an amp and not sure what I should go with, Ive been looking at a Alpine PDX-F4, DD C5C, SD SAX-125.4 or 100.4 (used), IA 6.4 and even a Zed Draconia-II and the problem is a can't really make up my mind cause I'm looking for 100-125w x 4ch amp for…

I just got my new amp (hifonics bxi 2010d) and wired up, but yet Im getting no sound out put to my subs? :S I know the amp's getting power because the amp power light is on and the amp lights up blue. The thing that confuses me is that my old amp worked just fine and I go to swap amps hook everything up and yet no sound out put. I have no idea what couldcause this. Anyone know whats going on?

the 2500 has two ground and two power inputs that both need to be filled.. how do i do this? getting a second ground is obviously easy, but how can i run a second power wire? do i just get a distrib block? i have a grand cherokee with a stock 160 amp alt. im gonna run 0 ga instead of the 4 i have now.. how do you think i will do as far as power is concerned? electrical risk? i was thinking about just getting a new battery, is it possible to just hook it up as my start up battery or am i better off to run it to the back.. im trying to save money so i would rather not run it back.

Hey everyone, I got a sundown x18 powered by a hifonics zeus 1800 and crescendo components to the doors on 600w hifonics zeus. I was running this setup for a couple weeks with stock battery, stock 75a alternator, and no big 3 with no problems at all. With the stock setup, my volts were around 14.2v at idle and when I turn my system up it usually drops from around 13.1-11v and the stock alternator kept up pretty well. I decided to get a new Kinetik 1800w battery, a 175a alternator, and I did the big 3. When I did all of this, my system got worse. My volts were running at around 13.4-13.7 and when I did something as little as rolling up my windows, it drained he volts all…

i need to get an 0/1 gauge distibution block with 3 or 4 4 gauge outs. i plan to run 8 gauge into one of the outputs, to my 35x4, this wont be a problem right? been looking at the blocks on ebay and i found a couple that look alright to me that aren't too expensive but thought i'd get some opinions before i buy some piece of chit and it wastes one of my amps. heres what i was looking at, does it look about like what i need, or is it with it to go with a stinger? is one fuse as good as another? in some auctions they say midis are better, but seems to me as long as it blows at its rated amps a fuse is a fuse. opinions? http://cgi.ebay.com/EFX-1-0-GA-4-way-DIGIT...1QQcmdZVi…

Well i sent the piece of junk db electric alternator back and went for a dc. cant wait for it to show up ill be sure to get pictures and even a video. from everything i see it should be awesome cant wait.