Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey guy's. Just doing some research and was wondering if the deka was comparable in power to the xs? I can get the deka for 225 and the xs for 290. The price difference is great but is the quality and power there aswell? Thanks Matt Cusack

i was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with the AQ1200D, its cheap and i'm debating if i should save my money and get it.

Alright, I just put a new Fi Btl 18 in my 97 dodge ram 2500. It is diesel and has a h/o alternator and duel batteries. I was using a power acustik OVN1 5500D amp. It is connected to a battery with zero gauge wire for both the positive and ground. The gain was only turned up about half way with the BTL running at 1 Ohm. I did not listen to it all that loud, however one day the bass cut out and then the amp started to smoke. I immediately shut off the radio and felt the amp. It was cool to the touch. The amp was only in for a week and had only been used maybe three times.... When I got home I turned the radio back on and the LED indicator came on but no power is coming out …

I was going to write a giant post, but figured this will be better Vehicle - 2006 Ford F-150 XL What I plan on doing: Fi BTL 18" power by Lanzar Opti6000D 8 Pioneer 4-way 280W Max 6x8s on 50Ws each Supporting upgrades: HO Alternator, something with a high idle output Isolator splitting between stock battery for car and 3 batteries in bed of truck Big 3 with 0 Gauge 0 gauge from alt to all batteries Fuses throughout system Voltage meter in dash If you assume I know how to correctly make a ported box, and how to wire stuff, is there anything I am missing or should do in order to make the system more stable? I plan on using 0 gauge for grounds, but feel like I should ask her…

I let it sit for a bit and I guess from what I read online that if it gets a little dust on or in it. The cd player doesn't eject cds. There is a disk in there that plays fine. It can't eject it though. How would I fix this?

I have a 400 watt class A/B amp running 2 10's right now. When I'm listening to rap music, after an hour or so, the amp shuts down from overheating, even if I don't have the volume up too high. Should I switch to a class D amp or would it not be worth it? I listen mostley to rap, but listen to rock and country too, I like to have acceptable SQ.

Ive decided i wanted to go 2-way active with my new system im buying. Problem is I dont know which is better or more cost efficient. The decks ive been looking at are : pioneer prs 800, kenwood x991, clarion drz9255, Eclipse CD7200mkii and as far as active crossovers i dont know who to look at besides audiocontrol but i figure if im gonna pay almost $400 might as well buy a new deck. What would any of yall recommend?

What is the best way to set your crossover setting on your amp and headunit? Can you leave your amp a little higher, then adjust from your hu when needed or should they both be set on the same HZ? What would be the best frequency for 2 DD350012e in a trunk setup? Currently I am set at 80 hz on my radio and about 90 hz on the amp. Bass boost is at 0, do you recommend using the bass boost or does this do more harm than help to your subs?

Hi guys, had this question in my head for a few days now so I thought I would just ask. I was wondering what the difference is(if any) between a standard bass knob or a bass processor such as an epicenter from Audio control. More specifically, a potentiometer vs. a parametric eq. How do they work? Do they increase voltage? What exactly is going on when you crank on that knob? Thanks

US AMPS MERLIN MD1D AMPLIFIER 1200 WATTS RMS AMP - eBay (item 200477055940 end time Jun-26-10 12:02:09 PDT) I have two RE REX subs and want to run them temp on it and i think this is a pretty good deal. If i do push the RE's with this amp i will have to set the gain order not to pop them only reason i ant is because I might keep it for future upgrades Tell me what you think.

Ok I hope I set this up correctly. Got another question for everyone. Decided to make it a poll. Years ago in the area I grew up in everyone used bass blockers to remove lower frequencies from the smaller speakers 4x6, 5x7, 6.5 and 6x9's. Keeping all the lower bass to the larger speakers. The smaller the speaker the higher the bass blocker frequency. The larger the speaker the lower the blocker frequency. Till you got to the subs. Then they were controlled by the amp so none were used. I have never used them myself. But I am now finding myself looking into purchacing some for my non amped, non component speakers ( the ones listed in the poll ). What are your op…

Ok a lot to go through but ill start with my Saz 1500d wired @ 1ohm to a nightshade 18 d2, i have a 106ah marine batt up front big 3 in 1/0 with all grounds secured to chassis HU is alpine 9883 car is a 1978 ford Ltd. alt was upgraded to 100 amps from 60 (awaiting HO alt). Voltage checked before and after all fuses 14 with car on 12 with car off, previously the remote lead went out on the HU so i ran a toggle switch via jumper wire and all was fine. The problem started after i finished the big 3 everything was going smooth at full tilt voltage staying above 13 volts then after about 10 min of play with car running amp stopped playing no protect light or anything so i…

Looking for new mids and high amp, came across soundstream HRU.2 does anyone have experience with this amp? Thanks

hello ppl i have 2 jbl gt4 1000watts subs 250RMS which amp would be best to power up my subs

I have a DD 9512 (dual 2 ohm) and two Autotek MM1400.1D's. I wanted to run each amp on each coil at first, but I was told this is actually pretty risky and it is a lot safer to strap the amps together.. The only dilemma is that once strapped.. the amps will only be stable at 2 ohms.. but dual 2 ohm drivers can only be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohm.. if i can keep the voltage between 13.5 and 14 volts at the amps, will it be safe to put a 1 ohm load on the set of strapped amps?

Has anybody seen this Hu, it's bad ass! And if so does anybody know if this will be available in the US. Thanks

just looking for feedback on these can get for cheap

Ok guys I thought my sae-1200 v.2 was screwed when I wasn't getting any output from it at all and it was randomly going into protect mode. I decided to check my connections and behold they were really loose, including the speaker wire on the verge of falling out of the terminal on the back of my box. I redid both of my speaker terminals inside the box and now my amp is not going into protect mode whatsoever. But when I turn the volume up to a decent level it just cuts out but it isn't going into protect mode. When i turn the volume down it comes back on. So I'm almost positive it's low voltage. I'm going to be completing the big three and putting an optima yellow top up f…

I want a new Head Unit and i've seen this idea done before on SMD.. i didn't stick around to see it through though. I'm concerned about the fact my system might not be capable of being powered by an iPad. I'd have my dash fiberglassed for a nice fit. What would the PROS and CONS be? The system would consist of (2) Sub Amps ( around 8k ) and (1) Front Stage Amp. ( 4x100 ) Would it be possible to hook up? If so, HOW?! Also.. heres some other questions i have. How would I keep it charged? The EQ.. whats your guys thoughts about how i would set it up? -- Would it be the same as a regular Head Unit? Would it be possible for my equipment to fry the inside of the iPad? -- to m…

let me break it down for u what im currently running n what i want to. Pioneer hu 6950ub 1 15' kicker L7 in a 3.83 cft box tuned to 33 hz 1 Solid audio f2000 giving around 900rms to the sub a pair of 6*9 pioneer D series powered by Solid audio Ms42 auxil rca's Stinger 1/0 ground n power wires Stinger Distribution block n fuses 110 amp single 12.5v batt 80 amp alt (stock) In Honda civic 05 Big3 Daily driver. music preference: hip hop Now im planning to upgrade my system to a single Fi 18 BTL. i can manage 7 cft with ease. i also hav a brand new DDz1 amp to power it .. ill probably buy 2 stinger spv44s but the main question is that do i have to change my stock alterna…

hi, i had to change my plans and have to go with a more budget friendly set up around 300 for the front stage amp . ok right now i have a sundown sax100.4D that i love. but the problem is it is too long i need 3 inches of it to be cut off for it to be true love. so i am i going to have to sell it. and i was looking at small class d amps. and i saw the kenwood xr 4s. for roughly 300 it is rated for 120 rms at 4 ohms and can do active. and on diyma it seems to have gotten good reviews and i do like the fact that it has a fan.. but i never have ran kenwood before . and the only other options i can see for me is getting 2 2 channels amps and stacking them since i want atlea…

In the market for one. so far have looked into db, irragi, cbr electronics, nations, mechman, and just recently spring hill. I've heard of people having issues with mechman and irragi but after doing some reading there could be other reasons why their units failed. Any input on any of these? right now I'm leaning more towards spring hill autoelectric simply because they offer more options for upgrading ie i can order just the parts i need and upgrade the alternator myself and save $100+ that and their customer service has been very responsive about answering my thousand questions. even on the weekend which i thought odd... Anyone have any dealings with them either??

Is there any difference between kinetic racing batteries and regular kinectic batteries? I'm looking for a trunk battery for my build and was looking at an HC2000, but I found a better price on the KR2712. Which looks to be the same battery but in a red case. I went to kinectic's site to look up the racing line of batteries. But they aren't listed anymore. Which I'm guessing is why the racing line is cheaper since it looks to be discontinued.

ok so i figured id give em a try and ordered a h/o alt from db electrical. suppose to be 200a at 1200 rpm n 105a at idle, but wats idle to them? im running a sundown sae 1200 v2 at 1 ohm so around 1500w rms. when im driving down the road the most ive seen voltage drop is about .5 volts on very low hard hitting songs. that part is wat i do like. wat i dont like is when i pull up to a stoplight or stop sign voltage sits at 13.1 with nothing on, 12.6-9 with my lights on. if im in park at idle voltage will sit around 13.9 but if i do anything, roll down a window, turn on the air or heat it drops dramatically, windows pull it down to low 13s(thats one window at a time, rolling…

I've got a pair of db drive plw12d4 currently on an alphasonic pma600hca and i was wondering what might be a good amp to run so i can put a little more power to them when I build an enclosure better suited for them. How many watts can they actually handle?