Home Audio

At my house, I have these Kenwood floor standing speakers. It has 3 different looking tweaters, and 12"woofer. Then I look in my KEF rear speakers, and it has 1 speaker which has a tweater in the middle of a little 6" woofer. Obviously, the Kenwoods sound a lot better. BUt I am confused. I want to build my own, but why are there 3 different looking tweaters? I know that the frequencies are seperated by a crossover to the different tweaters, but when I search around for tweaters, I dont see tweaters being seperated by the frequency it plays. Help?

ok.. so my car is tuned pretty low, 29 htz or so .. i peak some where around 38, the problem is .. while im at my computer, picking music that will sound good in my car is a crap shoot.. i have a powered 10'' sub now.. but its not tuned anywhere near as low as i need, so i have a shit load of 8's laying around... an old MTX 8 terminator single 4 .. 8 inch no name pretty stout single 4 and i have a pair of kicker comp 8's single 4s so i was thinking can i build a ported box or a horn or something to go under my desk .. tuned low so i can pick music that will sound great in my car. hope everything made sense

do i need one of these? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...amp;ctab=4#Tabs or can i make one like i did for my speaker towers?

Built these for to go with the Mach5Audio IXL-18 in the sonotube I just finished: I figured I did 324 passes with the router. Baffles are 2.25" thick, backs are 1.5" thick. Took 5 sheets of MDF with (2) 4" strips left over. yes they are HEAVY!! Each driver is in .5 ft^3 tuned to 38 Hz. These are based on the ART array, but doubled. Tweeter spacing is not great, but we tested before I cut the holes for the tweeters, and they sound awesome. . . They are driven with an old school 380 x 2 RMS Carver amp, and it is like being at a concert in this guy's living room. these along with the 18" sub on 1000 watts is nuts!!! Brian

I was wondering where you guys get your home theater components. Speakers, amps, crossovers. I am looking @ rebuild my home theater from the ground up and was wondering where everyone shopped for the parts.

http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/exclusive-inter...wers-315250.php

i'm looking for a pretty sturdy 2 channel amp for my home theater system and came across this and was wondering what you thought about it? i don't know much of anything when it comes to home stereo amplifiers. i want something that is going to push around 200-300rms at 8ohms if you have any suggestions i would definitely be open to them. this is one that i found and it seems to have everything i need, but i don't know the brand and how good this would actually be. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adcom-GFA-555se-Stereo-Amplifier-/130717532260?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item1e6f5f4064

Here is a little list of the equipment I am looking at getting. Reciever: Yamaha Rx-v661 Dvd: Yamaha DVD-C750 Speakers: 3 pairs of Axiom Audio M3v2 bookshelves Axiom Audio Vp-100v2 center Substage Amp: Behringer EP2500 The woofer(s) is still undecided, but that is ok, because this will be next years project. Leaning towards a single TC sounds 3000 (15") or a Fi Q (18")

This build is going to be for my buddies 2.1 computer set up. The over all goal is to put together something that will sound decent, but for as cheap as possible. Right now we are thinking about picking up a used Onkyo receiver to do all the signal processing, and run the 2 satellites off of that. Also need suggestions for a sub amp to pair with the sub (Sundown SD-1 v2 10"). If anyone thinks this is a bad idea, or has a better way of going about it, let me know. Please! I haven't talked to him in a few weeks, but I think his budget is $400 for everything. $50 is already spent on the SD-1.

so. you all know me as the kid who is only 14 but dreams big in terms of bass. now here i have another stupid idea. i asked my mum if i could get like, a present or sumthin if i got straight a's first semester in school. (ima sophmore now, no longer FRESHmeat lol) she, surprisingly said yes. first thing that popped into my head, and out of my mouth was "iCon 15d2" and dude, i almost cried cuz she still said yes when she saw the pricetag. so here are my plans. it is eventually goin in my car, so the box is going to be a low ported mdf. i want to know what i can do with it for a ht setup whilst i wait for my car. i am iffy on max power, estimating between 1500-2000w seeing …

Well i have a Dayton HPSA1000 plate amp that been sitting here for some time now and its time to put it to use. Well my next is looking for a driver or drivers. I have tons of air space so this is not a porblem. Due to most of my money going to a different build im going to have to limit my budget for driver or drivers to 300 shipped. With the lack of budget i been considering a single 18 set up (Mach 5 IXL 18.4, FI SSD, etc). Any suggestions, im not limited to anything as long as it fits my needs? Corey

I'm looking for a subwoofer and speakers to use in a 2.1 bedroom home theater/listening set up. I have in mind Using a 150-300w (Was looking at the bash 300w plate amp but not sure about if I like the auto on/off) plate or regular amp (up for debate). Info: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-750 As far as subwoofer goes, I had in mind using a 10" in a T-line specifically the soundqubed SDC 2.0. mainly because I think they look awesome, there cheap, and wouldn't mind throwing it in my car one day. Im looking for a flat responce and something that sounds good. Also up for debate. Info on amp: (10" isn't showing but here's the 8")http://www.sound…

i already have all the gear, pretty budget setup, just need to build 2 towers. the only place i have room for them is on my desk (its a 10' long desk i built, ill post a pic). i dont have any floor space. these are the drivers/amps i have: 4 of these 10s: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-485 1 of these for the subs: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-804 2 pairs of these, which for $29/pair (when i ordered them), sound GREAT IMO. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-652 1 of these, currently powering the above speakers in their stock enclosures: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumb…

The $469 price for the 21 is the DR motor – which is a 7.5” triple stacked motor, very beefy. On the IB 21 – T/S are: Fs: 21 Hz Qms: 8.08 Qts: 0.67 Qes: 0.73 Mms: 419 g BL: 15.35 Vas: 372.7 L SPL: 90.5 1w/1m

I have been reading, but still don't understand. Is there a difference between home subwoofers and car subwoofers? Would i have a problem hooking up a Fi Q to a plate amp? And the speakers. Is it not possible to hook up lets say some JL ZR650-CSi speakers to a receiver. Would this not work?

I know this is probably not under "Home Audio", but I'm taking my chances. Looking at TV's, I need an outside opinion. I can get a Samsung 61 inch or so, 1080p DLP TV for around $1500. What's the catch. I googled around for the Pro's and Con's of DLP TV's, but nothing gave me anything to hold on to. For instance one "Con" I saw was, "TV not small enough to hang on wall". <-- That means nothing to me. Anyways. I know nothing is too good to be true. I need some input. Thanks

Heres some pics of my build of BIB's for the Eminence 12LTA driver and a Fostex FT17 tweet. It takes 5 sheets of ply for the two enclosures, 6'3"x20"x30" rough dimensions. On to the pics

[Note] This is a re-post of my "newbie" 3/31/08 post, based on recommendation of member "denim" Mike R newbie original post Hi; I got here via my build thread on "The IB cult site", Mike R DIY IB subwoofer project. Mike R IB sub project on "Cult of IB" forum As newbie here this is my 1st post. (well, this is my 2nd post now...) To make a long story sorta short, I'm finishing my basement and doing a Home Theatre room, and I'm going with Infinite Baffle subwoofer 4 x 15" (or 18") line array. Here is a pict of that image (details in link above): I cut the concrete window this past weekend and now I need to fill that hole with a IB line array subwoofer! 16" x 66" IB sub "wi…

I know these pics dont/wont show up here, I have to tweak them at home theater spot, but they work everywhere else so i will post a link to my AVS thread if u want to see the pics http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1337645 After doing REW sweeps of before the port and after, I realized I was tuned much lower than I thought. Thinking 990 cubic feet realizing 1003 cubic feet (closet door closed, opened it's more like 1040 cubic feet and 4Hz tuning) and from 9Hz to 5Hz, I can't have a title that I can't correct. I have never heard of anyone tuning to 5Hz before, or venting a 1000 plus cubic foot room. So I will leave the build log, post some final pics and REW s…

I finally got them BOTH done and hooked up. I'm not putting a finish on them. They look fine to me. They're made out of 3/4" MDF with oak laminated onto them. On the edges you can see the MDF, but at this point, not a big deal to me. These needed to stay rather cheap so I didn't buy very nice wood. Each tower houses 2 Dayton DC160s (8ohm versions), one HiVi TN28 (6 ohms) and an 8 ohm 3khz passive crossover(from Partsexpress). Both towers are powered by a Dayton APA150 in stereo mode, running at just under 4 ohms. The source of audio is my computer. These things sound awesome. They respond very audibly into the low 40s, and audibly into the 30s. The best word I can think o…

Finally started building these after having the part for a couple of months! (2) 12" Fi X Series, Dayton 500 watt plate amp, 3.0 cuft each, 4" aero port tuned to 24 Hz. Should be a nice replacement for this guy's 10" MTX sub.

I currently have an 8" ORB Audio sub in my home theater. My living room is about 20' X 12' and opens up to the kitchen that is about a 1/3 of the size of the living room. I currently have 2 10" AA arsenals that are sitting in my garage. I want a bigger sub stage. Something that will extend into the 20hz range. Can I use these subs for Home use? Or should I sell the pair and buy something geared toward my home theater. I really like the idea of an IB system, but I'm open to a box system in the living room. FYI, I have some building skills, so I can build an enclosure for any box design. I'm just a virgin when it comes to the home theater side of things. All suggestions ar…

These aren't mine, but a friend got them in and needed some help moving them, and I had never heard Altecs this big before, so this is what I spent Monday doing... Note to self, don't drink beer and install horn throats... They're mid 1950's Voice of the Theaters, they're actually a set of three of them, we just ran out of room to aim them Gets painfully loud with under 3 watts of power...most comfortable listening was done with power levels in the fractions of a watt range.

Here it is boys and girls. My first post with pics. So I got these floorstanders back in 96. I was just out of high school, and had no clue. I wanted a home theater with bass. No better way of getting that then with big woofers, so with my pay check I did just that. I bought the biggest ones Montgomery Wards had, that I could afford. Long story short I was satisfied with my purchase. Fast forward a decade and a half. I'm out of my parents house in my own with a wife and kids. I look in my parents shed and look what I find, my old Jensens. I think to myself, these were the sh!t back then, let's hook them back up. I've got a new setup, all the latest and greatest. I hook th…

might be getting a gift from the lady soon .... My Marantz is on the fritz and I haven't called a dealer yet for anything BUT .... it's about 5yrs old not that I think it's old but I wonder what its gonna cost me to fix... it does a cycle boot kinda like a computer... Turns on, screen display comes up, blue activity light comes on, then shuts of into standby and the red standby light comes on... repeat... sometimes the characters looks like Chinese on the screen display ... fckin weird and sucks.... I use this Marantz in the bedroom hooked into my PC .. The model is SR-5002. It's great but who knows if it can be repaired and stay that way... I'll look into the cost but …