Home Audio

not looking to spend alot...250 max... mainly just looking at the deals they have at circuit city, being they are going out of business theres an onkyo ht-3100B for $239 then there was a panasonic sa-pt660, didnt get the price on that samsung ht-z510 - $183 samsung ht-as720s (no price on that) sony str-kg700 no price on that either any opinions?

I bought a pair of the 1000w Parts Express sub amps and posted some pictures of the guts on Forceaudio if anyone wants to see what they look like before taking the plunge. Enjoy..... http://www.forceaudio.com/showthread.php?p=3404#post3404

Just curious to see what you guys think of using a bandpass box for a subwoofer outside of car audio. After messing around with WinISD, i figured out a design for a 6th order bandpass that is almost flat from 30 to 75 Hz, which would be prefect for music use, and is significantly more efficient than a ported box with similar frequency response (at least for my woofer). Are there any downsides to using a 6th order bandpass enclosure, like reduced sound quality or anything like that? I don't know of anyone who has tried this, so any opinions would be appreciated and just let me know if knowing the box or woofer specs would help

About 5 months ago, the plate amp built into my Klipsch KSW-10 sub died. A replacement amp was $90, but I wasn't really excited about buying that same (55 Watt) amp again. After dragging my feet and trying to come up with alternative solutions and/or uses for the sub, a brilliant plan hatched where I wouldn't have to spend money. So, here's how I got my sub working again.... ThermalTake Silent PurePower 480W ATX Power Supply (18Amps @ 12Volts) - harvested from an old computer and was sitting in a box in my basement. Rockford Fosgate 200a4 Car Audio Amp (almost old school - circa 1999) - sitting in my garage unused. KSW-10 Sub - with blown plate amp First, I removed my …

I've made it pretty much to layout and wiring. It should be a good sounding EL-34 PP amplifier provided I don't destroy it......

I built this amp from scratch about 5 years ago. I also designed everything but the output stage... I weighs almost 100 lbs. It is a pretty sweet amp, it still runs like a champ day in and day out.... Class AB, 100wpc into 8 ohms, 200wpc into 4 ohms and 400wpc into 2 ohms..... So, I went ahead and cleaned up some of the crap I did about about a year ago converting my amp for 230V and adding grounding options... I added a 5 position barrier strip with selectable jumpers on the input side for setting up the primaries of the power transformers for either 115V or 230V.... I also extended the primary wires about 10" to reach the barrier strip. Next I added small toggles to…

So I got bored the other day and made a headphone stand for my desk since I was tired of them kicking around on the desk. Figured I'd go ahead and post some pictures of it. Flat back MDF base, walnut upright with 3 coats of tung oil, and a 1.25" dowel rod that was dipped in a rubber coating, then shot with flat black to match.

I finally got them BOTH done and hooked up. I'm not putting a finish on them. They look fine to me. They're made out of 3/4" MDF with oak laminated onto them. On the edges you can see the MDF, but at this point, not a big deal to me. These needed to stay rather cheap so I didn't buy very nice wood. Each tower houses 2 Dayton DC160s (8ohm versions), one HiVi TN28 (6 ohms) and an 8 ohm 3khz passive crossover(from Partsexpress). Both towers are powered by a Dayton APA150 in stereo mode, running at just under 4 ohms. The source of audio is my computer. These things sound awesome. They respond very audibly into the low 40s, and audibly into the 30s. The best word I can think o…

I have a Home Theatre in a box (I know...but it was cheap) and I am installing new speakers, including an active Subwoofer. The Subwoofer output from the AV receiver is two-wire (Pos and neg) but the new Subwoofer has a single RCA jack input. Someone suggested using an LLC, but I have no experience in this area.

Hey Guys, I have two 10" Arsenals(Gen. previous to the current model) in my truck at the moment and will actually be down sizing things in the near future with a pair of 8" Assasins. I just bought a home and was thinking that I might be able to use the Arsenals in the Home theater. The room is approx. 12' X 20'. I do have a Dayton 1000W sub amp I bought from Parts express to use. Would size box would I use and how low can I tune the box. Help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hey guys. I'm trying to finish this before tomorrow and I'm stuck with part of the crossover schematic. I know his may be simple, but I think I'm thinking too much. I have the tweet part figured out. My problem is with the woofers. Question: Do I solder the 14.0mH, 8.0mH, and the 1.5mH leads together? Hey guys. I'm trying to finish this before tomorrow and I'm stuck with part of the crossover schematic. I know his may be simple, but I think I'm thinking too much. I have the tweet part figured out. My problem is with the woofers. Question: Do I solder the 14.0mH, 8.0mH, and the 1.5mH leads together? Do the other leads on the inductors (14.0mH, 8.0mH, and the 1.5mH) get…

hi DD earbuds iam very interested into Digital Designs DD-DXB01 ...now i have some Philips earbuds and iPod nano...they are pretty good but this DD EARBUDS should have some BADASS BASS :hairtrick: ...so does anyone own or wants to get this earbuds from DD ...

Anyone here run an active home theater setup? I'm looking at possibly running 4 100 watt bridgeable stereo amps (for mids and highs) and 1 200 watt bridgeable stereo amp (subwoofer) along side an active crossover (behringer or peavey 3way stereo-4 way mono design or something else..?) The end result will probably be a stack of amps hanging in the basement and an infinite baffle subwoofer using the floor as the baffle (I may go ceiling, not sure what will sound better)... I'm not real sure on speakers, I'll be building everything. I'm thinking of making a large "sound bar" center channel with 8 3" woofers and 2 1 1/8" tweeters... I've got some towers from my last passiv…

I have an old RF power hx2 10" that I broke, burnt the leads. I have no knowledge of home theater stuff or repairing subs, so what I was thinking is using this sub for my room. Is it possible to buy a recone kit that would make this sub suitable for this? What should I look for? Another question, what mono amp would I use for it? This is just a little side hobby that Id like to try, so I dont know if Im getting into something that gets really involved. I don't even know if I'll do this because I seem to be always strap for money (or spend it all on my car) but Id like to get some ideas and learn something.

I'm building another HT subwoofer, this time for my roommate. The box is 4.8 cu ft tuned to 21Hz I believe. (I would have to check that again, I don't have my paper right beside me. I already have the braces planned out for this. The woofer is going to be an SI MAG d2 15" powered by an O Audio 500w plate amp. My question pertains to polyfill though. Do any of you guys recommend polyfill? Also, since this just makes the box ACT larger, does it have any effect on power handling?

Quick question on a center channel.. Basically looking for opinions due to personal experience.. What will sound better, or will it make much of a difference

ok, so i am confused as to whether or not i need a new receiver to utilize the lossless audio formats available on blu ray discs. i am currently sourcing all my audio bitstream over s/pdif (optical). my receiver has 192 kHz/24-Bit DAC for All Channels as well as 8 ch discrete analog inputs and a pure direct setting. after watching Dark Knight on blu-ray last night i felt as though the surround in the film was a little mushy and my receiver reads out "dolby digital" while it is processing. I'm pretty sure standard dolby digital does not utilize discrete surround and rear channels. this is what i found about dolby true hd from their website regarding s/pdif connections (i …

Something happened when I tried to start the thread, whoops. Anyway, I recently got a elemental designs 11Kv.2 (10" sub) for my dorm stereo, and the sealed box really isn't working very well without cabin gain. First time designing a box, but I came up with a design using WinISD. It would be a 2.1 cu ft box tuned to about 28Hz with 27 sq in of port area (slot). the sub will be powered by a 325 watt BASH plate amp, in case that makes much of a difference. Does this sound right? any help would be great. T/S specs from eD are: Qts: .28 Qes: .31 Qms: 2.7 Fs: 24.80Hz Re: 7.0 Vas: 66L Mms: 116.0g Bl: 19.00T*m SPL: 87.1dB Sd: 350cm

I am not tooo interesting in using a home theater receiver and all of that. I moreso like the concept of putting a car system in home. Not for the outstanding theater surround sound just for the deep loud bass and all that. I was wondering what places like Best Buy and other places use to run their display system. I am looking moreso for like a brand and model. I am assuming they use power supplies but the only ones i have found are small ones for computers. And if possible I would like to avoid getting a battery charger and battery(s). I intend on at least 1 rf power 1000 5 channel amp. Maybe a large four channel and a 1000-1500 rms sub amp. Im looking for total sy…

Hi everyone, It's been a while since I posted on here and I'm sure I've asked this question before in some incarnation of the site. But I'm looking for recommendations on a box(ported, sealed?) for an old Brahma Mk.1 I've got sitting around. THe smaller the better, as the spacee is a bit limited at my place. I would have loved to do a PR one but no budget to buy PRs. I've played with WinISD a bit and was looking at a 8 cube box tuned to 20hz but not sure if I want a box that big. I have a PE 500 watt plate amp coming in and am going to use it for half HT, half audio Thanks for you help in advance.

Im building a set of speaker towers that will be used for strictly music. They will each have a subwoofer, which is my question. Im going to put in a 15'' subwoofer in each one and they will either be FI Q's or Bl's. I would like to know which ones will sound better with quality and bass and overall sounding. Power is not a problem Thanks

Im wanting to make a little 2.1 setup with some full range drivers im looking at the fostex ff165k In the link it shows the enclosure I would probably build for them. Does anyone have expirience with this kind of setup. This will be used for watching movies and listening to music. Do you guys know what kind of power these these would need. Im starting from scratch so im also looking for a receiver or some other way to power them for under $300. Im not to familiar with Home audio so I dont really know any thing so any help is ok with me. fostexff165k

here's the dimensions of the wall the screen is going on. theres no windows at all, its above my garage. its sound deadened real good, etc. we just never got equipment for it. its pre wired for 7.1 surround, an outlet, etc on the ceiling where the projector will go, etc. we will be getting theater seats (nothing big) but its just a small little HT. want a nice screen, whatever the biggest 16:9 screen we can fit on that wall. i know at least a 100" will fit, possible 110-120" at the most. recomend me a projector as well. my dad wants a 1080p, but at the same time, dont need anything thats top line. i think hes looking for something in the 1200-1500 ish range. its not gonna…

I have my 360, dvd, and tv hooked up to my surround sound and am trying to have the cpu hooked up also. It has a digital audio output but the tv or dvd doesn't have a digital audio input, and my digital audio cable doesn't work with the regular audio inputs. I tried using regular RCAs to the tv and dvd but that didn't work.. So how do I hook up the computer to go to the surround sound? Here's a link for specs on the comp ___\/___ http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/se...AIN#detailspecs Thanks

I am trying to help a member here on SSA with his home theater sub project. He is currently using a Fi 12" SSD in 1 cube sealed with polyfill running off of a 1400w Behringer amp. He is changing his setup to a Mach5 18" running off the same amp but ported tuned to around 18hz. His amp only has a 30hz or 50hz roll off choice. I have searched and searched for crossovers that have a subsonic filter on them that can be tuned to roll off around 15-20hz. I'm trying to find one for under $150, $80-$120 is more ideal. I have came across Harrison Labs 20hz FMOD adapters. This is currently the only thing i have found. Is it ok or worth using? IT's just for movies and the occasi…