Fi Technical

hey guys im new to the forum and i have a question. im thinking about ordering a dual 2ohm 15" and wiring it down. my only fear is having my amp go into protect mode. my amp goes into protect at .8 ohm. what do the sp4 15" dual 2 ohm coils actually read. are they actually dual 1.27's if their re: 1.27 Ohms/coil? even if i wired it down to .635 do you think i'd be okay after box rise? im going to build a daily driver tuned around 28-30hz 500 is a good chunk of change and it would suck if i had to wire it up http://store.ficaraudio.com/sp415/ thanks for your help guys

I've done a few builds in the past, but have yet to use your products. I work for a very large cabinet manufacturer in Minnesota and have a high level of skill when it comes to wood fabrication. It's been 5+ years since my last build and I am a bit rusty. Needless to say, I don't trust my calculations and I am hoping someone can look-over these to let me know their thoughts on the dimensions/specs for these particular subs. This build will be for (2) BL-12's each in their own enclosure (with both enclosures attached together @ the ports). Below is my dimensions/specs. If this is in the wrong section of the forum, I apologize. If a moderator can move this to the proper…

Here's the deal... The car is a 2001 chevrolet s10 blazer 4 door and i currently have a 12in l7 kicker (4ohm dvc) with an enclosure of 3.75^3.ocft @ 35hz... powering with an Sundown audio saz1000.1d the sub is currently gettinh 600rms on a 2ohm load... i'm looking for something with quality and want it to get low and loud. i've came to a conlusion to go with an Fi q, the only problem is i don't know whether to go with a 12in fi q 2.5cft@ 32hz or a 15in fi q with an 2.6cft... not sure of options since havn't made up my mid on what size nor know what options to go with with either setup... i will be running the amp on a 1ohm load to feed 1k rms to this fi q. i'm leaning mor…

Here's my box I made for my new FI BL 15. This will be going into my 2014 Focus ST and will be driven by a Brutus 1200.1d at 1 ohm. Box is 3/4" Oak Plywood and is on the high side of 4.2 cubic feet. It is stained with Minwax Cherry Blossom stain with like 8 coats of poly. Empty Soda can is for size comparison. Has 14" long 6" psp aeroport tuned at 32hz. Turned out a little more Purpley/Burpley than I initially wanted but I said to heck with it and left it Burple. Looks a little more reddish Burple in the sun than in this pic. The shade.........It's growing on me. I did a little shake down run with a old RF Monoblock amp I had running a 18" obsidian. It sou…

I have been looking alot into the FI Subs and finally going to decide to buy my first FI Sub. I decided to go with the SP4 15. My first question is I need help with ideas/suggestions of my box. Now here's what I'm dealing with: 04 Cavalier Trunk Build sealed w/ sub and port forward. 2 XS D3100 in rear Taramps HD 6500 (Will keep gain down, want to do roughly 4k Watts to sub or suggestion?) Stock Alt (Don't plan to upgrade) Daily Driver, not SPL or competeting, just Pleasure to be LOUD I play All types of music from Decaf Slowed to Christian to Rock. I want to play to the mid 20s and up to the mid 50s decent, but of course tuning area gets best, but still some output 4…

I plan on running 8 ssd 10's. 2 per box at 500 watts rms each. Each box will be 3 cubes before displacement tuned to 33hz. I plan on running 1 4" aero port per 2 subs. Do you think I will get port noise with that size port on only 500 watts? Thanks, I hope that wasn't too confusing.

hey all, i am looking to build a 4th order wall setup in my 88 suburban with 4 BTL UFO pie slug 18s, they will have xmax coils and rig is dedicated SPL/demo. i would really love to find out what sealed size i need to base my wall off. since i want the bandwidth i am thinking 2:1 ratio. i have a calculated 100cf3 to work with so space is a plenty.. (50.25w x38t x91l) subs will be inverted (motor showing) all on the back wall, loading wall port will be drivers side. untill i find a sealed cf size per sub i really cant do a thing... ready to start buying lumber and resin

??? Thanks

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So as of right now i have a Q 15 powered by a BXI 1606 running at 1 ohm so the sub is dual 2. My next goal is to get another Q 15, but I really want to get a RF T3000 but they would have to run at 2 ohm and be dual 1's right? So i would have to recone my current one or 2 (if everything goes right) to run at 2 ohms. But then agan if i end up w/ 2 dual 2 Q's i could just get 2 RF T1000's I just need some advice -send in my current Q for a swap and get both dual 1 so i could run the T3000 -keep my current Q a dual 2 and run each off T1000's How much actual power do the T1000's put out? Do these hold up to the other T line? I know a T3000 would be very generous for 2 Q's but…

ok, well i have truely made up my mind and will be going with the Fi Q 12". my question is, will this box be good for the sub i.e. enough room for the sub to "breathe"? Box specs: Depth: 11 Width: 30 Height: 16 CuFT: 2.27

Ok so i have had my Fi BTL for a cppl months now and i was bumping it today and the Dustcap flew off. Does my warranty cover repairs on that? if so how do i go about getting it fixed?

Hey guys. I'm trying to finish up designing the subwoofer/amp combo for my 02 Yukon. I currently have an RE SX 15, 5.5 cubes at 33hz, on a jbl bp1200.1 My new one will be a single fully loaded BTL 18, 8 cubes, exactly 119 sq inches port area, at 33hz. It will be fed by a Hifonics Colossus (3200rms at 2). All power/ground will be 1/0 KnuKoncepts Kollosus cable (5000+ strands), Optima Yellowtop up front, Iraggi Amputator 175 idle/220 at 1400, possibly another yellowtop in the rear later on. Box will be 48Lx24.5Dx18.5Hl, with an internal dimentions of 46.5x23x17, with a 7x17" port (119sq inches port area) and 28" long. The port itself (with MDF included) will take up approxi…

Finally got my hands back on some straight street jam material. AKA: Qs and a BTL UFO I've seen some UFO BTLs have a spacer in between basket and the motor. Is this just an adapter for basket patterns or is it a beneficial option to the sub? Excited for my new Fi experience and so is the wife =]

So to start things off I have a 2000 silverado ext. cab. I am very interested in the FI Q series subs but have a quick question for those of you that are more knowledgeable than I. I would like to keep my back seat and put two subs underneath the seat, now my question is. which would be a better setup for a daily driver? I have approximately .8 cuft available for each sub. would two 12's sealed or two 10's ported be a better option? I understand that .8 cubs fits in both categories but have also heard that the 12's really need somewhere around 1.2-1.3 cuft. I listen to huge varieties of music at all different levels. and am not so much interested in hitting 145 db at one…

I've been looking for T/S perams for the FI BTL 18. Searching to no avail I need some help. The reason I need the numbers is to plug them into Termpak so I can design an enclosure for a forum buddy. Any help would be very much appreciated. I need the following: fs (in hz) Qts Vas (in cu.ft.) Xmax (in inches) znom (depends on coil config. I am aware) Pe (rms watts) Spl (in db @ 1w/1m)

Hi, I have a Fi BL 15 of 1000 Watt rms 2+2 ohm. I'd like to create a ported box too much little as possible. I'd like to place the box in my car as in the picture. Can I have a project please? Thanks a lot

What are some optimal dimensions for a box for a Fi BL 15. I really want "SQL". Need to know how many drivers port area port length tuning frequency. (W x H x D) Thanks for the help.

Mainly for the bigger heavier 18 inchers but not excluding other sizes.I'm curious to see what you use.Bolts,screws,clamps etc.Do you switch from screws to bolts at certain weights and so on.

Well here it is. A freind got a new 18inch btl, and he was throughing out his 10. I figure, since I have some left over LN from a computer cool, I would design a box and have LN cooling the sub. Yes this will involve some major work on modifying the sub. This ever been done ?, I just want to run 8000rms to it. And not have er burn. This is my first post aswell, and ill be ordering some subs later on . I figure if I vaporize the LN and have blowing through the sub, that it atleast not kill it for 10 seconds of playing. Crazy or worth a experiment ?

I've posted one thread similar to this one once before, But I felt the need to make one a little more clear. I own a Pontiac Grand Am. One of the worst vehicles to work with when it comes to car audio installs due to very limited room. I got an idea the other day sitting in the front seat looking back at my folded down back seats. I figured.. what if I took the open area where my seats fold down leading to my trunk area, put up one peice of 3/4 or so MDF across that opening, cutting a opening in it for the 18" BTL and another for a port that's tuned to 30-35 hz and using my entire trunk area as the enclosure, without the need to build an enitre box. Since there is not eno…

I am about to build a box for my incoming BTLs. I reviewed the cut out sheet for 1 BTL that is provided on the forum but was unsure as how a box for 2 BTLs is supposed to look like. I am unfamiliar with how the different dimensions in a ported box affect the performance of the sub so I would appreciate some input. 2-BTL 12 4.9 cubic feet @ 32Hz

just got my bl in and i was just wondering if there were anyway you could tell if they built it with cooling, hyperpole etc. thanks

which one would sound louder (spl) because i like the idea of having an 18 but i only have room for about 5 cubes so after diplacement and all that it would be in the 4cu/ft range like i know it would have more cone area but in a box too small for it btl would have the cooling and himax coil options

Is it safe to run a single fully loaded 18'' BL on a Rockford T2000 @ 1ohm?