Fi Technical

I've been looking for T/S perams for the FI BTL 18. Searching to no avail I need some help. The reason I need the numbers is to plug them into Termpak so I can design an enclosure for a forum buddy. Any help would be very much appreciated. I need the following: fs (in hz) Qts Vas (in cu.ft.) Xmax (in inches) znom (depends on coil config. I am aware) Pe (rms watts) Spl (in db @ 1w/1m)

So as of right now i have a Q 15 powered by a BXI 1606 running at 1 ohm so the sub is dual 2. My next goal is to get another Q 15, but I really want to get a RF T3000 but they would have to run at 2 ohm and be dual 1's right? So i would have to recone my current one or 2 (if everything goes right) to run at 2 ohms. But then agan if i end up w/ 2 dual 2 Q's i could just get 2 RF T1000's I just need some advice -send in my current Q for a swap and get both dual 1 so i could run the T3000 -keep my current Q a dual 2 and run each off T1000's How much actual power do the T1000's put out? Do these hold up to the other T line? I know a T3000 would be very generous for 2 Q's but…

Well here is the thing. Yesterday I tore out all my 4 gauge wiring to upgrade it to 1/0 welding cable, soldered and heat shrink and all that good stuff. Anyways I decided to take my sub out of it's box to look at it. It's been 2 years since I took it out and it wouldnt hurt to check for any wear/possible damage. I amost forgot what the back of the sub looked like lol. So I noticed the sub is "double slugged" or how people call it. I remember on Fi's website the Q had one magnet. So my question is why did they make the older Q with 2 and the newer ones with 1? Anything changed? Any sort of benefits from it or what? Just courious though. I was thinking of getting anothe…

Hello everyone, I'm still trying to decide whether to buy one or two FI 15 BTLs. I will be buying each sub with: dual 2 Ohm, cooling package, HiXmCoil, I heat ring, and will be set for daily. For each sub, I was planning on either running a Hifonics BRZ3000.1D Pro with 3,000 watts RMS @ 1 Ohm, or a Memphis MC1.4000 Mojo which has 4,000 watts RMS @ 1 Ohm. Will the FI BTL 15 be able to handle 4,000 watts? or will the 3,000 watt amp be a better choice? Money is not an issue, and I'm going to do the Big 3 under the hood. I am also looking for the dimensions of a box for either the one or two 15s. The truck is a 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. I'm going to remove the…

Here's the deal... The car is a 2001 chevrolet s10 blazer 4 door and i currently have a 12in l7 kicker (4ohm dvc) with an enclosure of 3.75^3.ocft @ 35hz... powering with an Sundown audio saz1000.1d the sub is currently gettinh 600rms on a 2ohm load... i'm looking for something with quality and want it to get low and loud. i've came to a conlusion to go with an Fi q, the only problem is i don't know whether to go with a 12in fi q 2.5cft@ 32hz or a 15in fi q with an 2.6cft... not sure of options since havn't made up my mid on what size nor know what options to go with with either setup... i will be running the amp on a 1ohm load to feed 1k rms to this fi q. i'm leaning mor…

Hey y'all I was look at the sp4 15s n I want to do a trunk wall with 2 of them I have a 2006 Impala I wanted to know if I have a enough airspace

I have been looking alot into the FI Subs and finally going to decide to buy my first FI Sub. I decided to go with the SP4 15. My first question is I need help with ideas/suggestions of my box. Now here's what I'm dealing with: 04 Cavalier Trunk Build sealed w/ sub and port forward. 2 XS D3100 in rear Taramps HD 6500 (Will keep gain down, want to do roughly 4k Watts to sub or suggestion?) Stock Alt (Don't plan to upgrade) Daily Driver, not SPL or competeting, just Pleasure to be LOUD I play All types of music from Decaf Slowed to Christian to Rock. I want to play to the mid 20s and up to the mid 50s decent, but of course tuning area gets best, but still some output 4…

Here's my box I made for my new FI BL 15. This will be going into my 2014 Focus ST and will be driven by a Brutus 1200.1d at 1 ohm. Box is 3/4" Oak Plywood and is on the high side of 4.2 cubic feet. It is stained with Minwax Cherry Blossom stain with like 8 coats of poly. Empty Soda can is for size comparison. Has 14" long 6" psp aeroport tuned at 32hz. Turned out a little more Purpley/Burpley than I initially wanted but I said to heck with it and left it Burple. Looks a little more reddish Burple in the sun than in this pic. The shade.........It's growing on me. I did a little shake down run with a old RF Monoblock amp I had running a 18" obsidian. It sou…

Well here it is. A freind got a new 18inch btl, and he was throughing out his 10. I figure, since I have some left over LN from a computer cool, I would design a box and have LN cooling the sub. Yes this will involve some major work on modifying the sub. This ever been done ?, I just want to run 8000rms to it. And not have er burn. This is my first post aswell, and ill be ordering some subs later on . I figure if I vaporize the LN and have blowing through the sub, that it atleast not kill it for 10 seconds of playing. Crazy or worth a experiment ?

I was looking into the hifonics amps for price reasons. Looking for an amp around or under 200. I was thinking about the hifonics brz1200.1D. Opinions? This is just going to be a daily driver build with one BL12. Any help is apreciated. And just for kicks, the car is a 1987 Suzuki samurai.

Is it safe to run a single fully loaded 18'' BL on a Rockford T2000 @ 1ohm?

I've done a few builds in the past, but have yet to use your products. I work for a very large cabinet manufacturer in Minnesota and have a high level of skill when it comes to wood fabrication. It's been 5+ years since my last build and I am a bit rusty. Needless to say, I don't trust my calculations and I am hoping someone can look-over these to let me know their thoughts on the dimensions/specs for these particular subs. This build will be for (2) BL-12's each in their own enclosure (with both enclosures attached together @ the ports). Below is my dimensions/specs. If this is in the wrong section of the forum, I apologize. If a moderator can move this to the proper…

I've posted one thread similar to this one once before, But I felt the need to make one a little more clear. I own a Pontiac Grand Am. One of the worst vehicles to work with when it comes to car audio installs due to very limited room. I got an idea the other day sitting in the front seat looking back at my folded down back seats. I figured.. what if I took the open area where my seats fold down leading to my trunk area, put up one peice of 3/4 or so MDF across that opening, cutting a opening in it for the 18" BTL and another for a port that's tuned to 30-35 hz and using my entire trunk area as the enclosure, without the need to build an enitre box. Since there is not eno…

it doesn't make sense, when i chose the p chamfer option it added $10 then i chose the cooling option too and it doesn't have a price. and there's a note that it i chose both p chamfer and cooling, uncheck the p chamfer because p chamfer is incuded in the package of the cooling. in short, if i get both options, the p chamfer and the cooling, i will get it for free, but if i only get the p chamfer option, i need to pay addtl $10 for it. can someone explain this for me, thanks. i'm also planning on getting the universal option, my question is, if i get this option will there be any changes in the performance of the sub? or side effects?

So to start things off I have a 2000 silverado ext. cab. I am very interested in the FI Q series subs but have a quick question for those of you that are more knowledgeable than I. I would like to keep my back seat and put two subs underneath the seat, now my question is. which would be a better setup for a daily driver? I have approximately .8 cuft available for each sub. would two 12's sealed or two 10's ported be a better option? I understand that .8 cubs fits in both categories but have also heard that the 12's really need somewhere around 1.2-1.3 cuft. I listen to huge varieties of music at all different levels. and am not so much interested in hitting 145 db at one…

Alright, I have a MTX Thunder 2150 and MTX 7000 12 in sealed pre-fab as a temporary setup in my 08 extended cab Sierra. Signal is off stock Bose HU rear driver speaker on a LOC. Needless to say I want a bit more oomph along w/ a my passenger seat back. Also, I believe I'm getting a full signal there but if someone knows otherwise please let me know. So I am willing to give up my rear center seat space, and am looking to do a small box behind the center console rather than downfiring under a seat. I am thinking a FI SSD 10 combined w/ a used MMATS, or possibly a new American Bass amp around 1000 to 1250 rms (and yes, I'll consider a used Sundown). Want to keep it US made b…

wondering if I buy a couple MT motor's can FI help me out? [email protected]

??? Thanks

Finally got my hands back on some straight street jam material. AKA: Qs and a BTL UFO I've seen some UFO BTLs have a spacer in between basket and the motor. Is this just an adapter for basket patterns or is it a beneficial option to the sub? Excited for my new Fi experience and so is the wife =]

Hey guys. I'm trying to finish up designing the subwoofer/amp combo for my 02 Yukon. I currently have an RE SX 15, 5.5 cubes at 33hz, on a jbl bp1200.1 My new one will be a single fully loaded BTL 18, 8 cubes, exactly 119 sq inches port area, at 33hz. It will be fed by a Hifonics Colossus (3200rms at 2). All power/ground will be 1/0 KnuKoncepts Kollosus cable (5000+ strands), Optima Yellowtop up front, Iraggi Amputator 175 idle/220 at 1400, possibly another yellowtop in the rear later on. Box will be 48Lx24.5Dx18.5Hl, with an internal dimentions of 46.5x23x17, with a 7x17" port (119sq inches port area) and 28" long. The port itself (with MDF included) will take up approxi…

okay so I have posted on here a time or two before when first acquiring my FI audio speakers. I am driving a 2010 Chevy Malibu two fully loaded 12" Fi Q's, built for a sealed enclosure due to the lack of space to slide a box in the trunk. I have a Brutus BRZ 2400 hooked up to them, running them wired down to 1 ohm resistance. I also have a kinetic 2400 battery, nothing done to battery up front or alternator. 0 gauge knukoncepts ran throughout This is my daily driver and i run the system every time im on the road (on highways for 2.5+ hours a day) the RMS rating for these subs is 1500 apiece if i remember correctly, and from what I have heard, added resistance when turnin…

I plan on running 8 ssd 10's. 2 per box at 500 watts rms each. Each box will be 3 cubes before displacement tuned to 33hz. I plan on running 1 4" aero port per 2 subs. Do you think I will get port noise with that size port on only 500 watts? Thanks, I hope that wasn't too confusing.

hey all, i am looking to build a 4th order wall setup in my 88 suburban with 4 BTL UFO pie slug 18s, they will have xmax coils and rig is dedicated SPL/demo. i would really love to find out what sealed size i need to base my wall off. since i want the bandwidth i am thinking 2:1 ratio. i have a calculated 100cf3 to work with so space is a plenty.. (50.25w x38t x91l) subs will be inverted (motor showing) all on the back wall, loading wall port will be drivers side. untill i find a sealed cf size per sub i really cant do a thing... ready to start buying lumber and resin

Hey guys new to this forum and just looking for some info. I have a BL 15 on a SQ2200 sealed off in my car. The res fq of my car is 37hz and im looking to increase my spl #'s. What is the recommend port area and port area per foot? I was thinking about using 3 4" PVC ports. Does anybody recommend something else?

I am about to build a box for my incoming BTLs. I reviewed the cut out sheet for 1 BTL that is provided on the forum but was unsure as how a box for 2 BTLs is supposed to look like. I am unfamiliar with how the different dimensions in a ported box affect the performance of the sub so I would appreciate some input. 2-BTL 12 4.9 cubic feet @ 32Hz