Fi Technical

I was wondering if anyone would have any insight on my possible set up plans with my enclosure and sub and amp. First off my vehicle is a 1995 3000gt. I want to go with a single sub because it will be easier and far cheaper to set up. So would a 15 fit or would only a 12 fit? I was thinking either one of those BLs with all the options on a decent 1000-1500 watt amp would probably be ideal? Also are the speaker wire kits on ebay that are 2 gauge ideal? They cost like $40-$70 on there. If anyone has any suggestions or recommendations, I would greatly appreciate it.

Already have a ported box for the sis as I built it last week with the purchase of these subs in mind, but just read the pinned thread about the Qs. I listen to everything from avenged sevenfold to maroon 5 to jack Johnson to lil Wayne and kirko bangz. So I really am Looking for a setup that "does it all" and sounds good while doing it. A lot of music other than rap spuds muddy and sloppy on my current RE SeX 12s (prefab and custom enclosures) and just haven't been happy with the sound. Everything kind of runs together. With that being said, how will I like these subs? Current box is at 33 hz with approx 1.9 cubes per sub in the trunk; subs up, port facing forward on the …

I am running an AQ-1200D @ .7 ohms to a 15 BL and my friend installed it yesterday and set the gain on the amp a little less than half way and when i turn the bass knob about 3/4 up and turn the volume up to like 25 out of 35 the clipping indicator on the bass knob illuminates on and off with the bass hits on some notes. its aggravating the shit out of me because I just spent alot of money and I dont want my shit to fuck up. He told me the amp could be too small for the sub or the HU is sending out bad waves to the amp. It sounds amazing, dont get me wrong. I just wanted some advice on how to get the clipping to stop. I have a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X792 head unit and it has…

I have 4 FI BL 12's and was wondering how many cubes net should I build an enclosure for them? Also how low should I tune to do hair tricks? They will be seeing a little over 6,000 watts of power.

I've posted one thread similar to this one once before, But I felt the need to make one a little more clear. I own a Pontiac Grand Am. One of the worst vehicles to work with when it comes to car audio installs due to very limited room. I got an idea the other day sitting in the front seat looking back at my folded down back seats. I figured.. what if I took the open area where my seats fold down leading to my trunk area, put up one peice of 3/4 or so MDF across that opening, cutting a opening in it for the 18" BTL and another for a port that's tuned to 30-35 hz and using my entire trunk area as the enclosure, without the need to build an enitre box. Since there is not eno…

I've been looking for T/S perams for the FI BTL 18. Searching to no avail I need some help. The reason I need the numbers is to plug them into Termpak so I can design an enclosure for a forum buddy. Any help would be very much appreciated. I need the following: fs (in hz) Qts Vas (in cu.ft.) Xmax (in inches) znom (depends on coil config. I am aware) Pe (rms watts) Spl (in db @ 1w/1m)

Well here it is. A freind got a new 18inch btl, and he was throughing out his 10. I figure, since I have some left over LN from a computer cool, I would design a box and have LN cooling the sub. Yes this will involve some major work on modifying the sub. This ever been done ?, I just want to run 8000rms to it. And not have er burn. This is my first post aswell, and ill be ordering some subs later on . I figure if I vaporize the LN and have blowing through the sub, that it atleast not kill it for 10 seconds of playing. Crazy or worth a experiment ?

Alright, I have a MTX Thunder 2150 and MTX 7000 12 in sealed pre-fab as a temporary setup in my 08 extended cab Sierra. Signal is off stock Bose HU rear driver speaker on a LOC. Needless to say I want a bit more oomph along w/ a my passenger seat back. Also, I believe I'm getting a full signal there but if someone knows otherwise please let me know. So I am willing to give up my rear center seat space, and am looking to do a small box behind the center console rather than downfiring under a seat. I am thinking a FI SSD 10 combined w/ a used MMATS, or possibly a new American Bass amp around 1000 to 1250 rms (and yes, I'll consider a used Sundown). Want to keep it US made b…

hey guys im new to the forum and i have a question. im thinking about ordering a dual 2ohm 15" and wiring it down. my only fear is having my amp go into protect mode. my amp goes into protect at .8 ohm. what do the sp4 15" dual 2 ohm coils actually read. are they actually dual 1.27's if their re: 1.27 Ohms/coil? even if i wired it down to .635 do you think i'd be okay after box rise? im going to build a daily driver tuned around 28-30hz 500 is a good chunk of change and it would suck if i had to wire it up http://store.ficaraudio.com/sp415/ thanks for your help guys

Look at title. As an example, a 15" Fi SSD both D1 and D2 have the same specs except for a 40% higher BL on the D2, can someone please explain what is happening that makes this configuration have that much more motor force?

As of right now, I have 2 800 watt sony amps. Its about 350 RMS at 2 ohms, and is unstable at 1 ohm. My link I have a BL 15, and I'm wondering if this severe underpowering of the sub is dangerous. I don't have the money right now to upgrade on an amp. Also, is it possible to use both the 800 watt amps to power the one 15?

it doesn't make sense, when i chose the p chamfer option it added $10 then i chose the cooling option too and it doesn't have a price. and there's a note that it i chose both p chamfer and cooling, uncheck the p chamfer because p chamfer is incuded in the package of the cooling. in short, if i get both options, the p chamfer and the cooling, i will get it for free, but if i only get the p chamfer option, i need to pay addtl $10 for it. can someone explain this for me, thanks. i'm also planning on getting the universal option, my question is, if i get this option will there be any changes in the performance of the sub? or side effects?

right now i have a fi ssd on an aq1200d but i want to get a btl and maybe score the free cooling option before july 29 but i haven't been able to sell my aq1200d so i'm thinking bout keeping it and just buying another one and strapping them together but i will only be able to run it at 2 ohms so what would be better 2 aq1200d's @ 2 ohms or 1 aq2200 @ 1 ohm ? and how would i wire the 2 aq1200d's? this is my first post so sorry if it's messed up at all lol

Do you need big power to make the BL series subs play at their best? Will they play low and deep on 1,000 watts?

Mainly for the bigger heavier 18 inchers but not excluding other sizes.I'm curious to see what you use.Bolts,screws,clamps etc.Do you switch from screws to bolts at certain weights and so on.

Since I've bought the sub,I noticed they sell a fully loaded BTL.My sub only has 2 magnets.Is my sub the 2000w rms model,and what year sub do I have.my ride

Here's the deal... The car is a 2001 chevrolet s10 blazer 4 door and i currently have a 12in l7 kicker (4ohm dvc) with an enclosure of 3.75^3.ocft @ 35hz... powering with an Sundown audio saz1000.1d the sub is currently gettinh 600rms on a 2ohm load... i'm looking for something with quality and want it to get low and loud. i've came to a conlusion to go with an Fi q, the only problem is i don't know whether to go with a 12in fi q 2.5cft@ 32hz or a 15in fi q with an 2.6cft... not sure of options since havn't made up my mid on what size nor know what options to go with with either setup... i will be running the amp on a 1ohm load to feed 1k rms to this fi q. i'm leaning mor…

Well here is the thing. Yesterday I tore out all my 4 gauge wiring to upgrade it to 1/0 welding cable, soldered and heat shrink and all that good stuff. Anyways I decided to take my sub out of it's box to look at it. It's been 2 years since I took it out and it wouldnt hurt to check for any wear/possible damage. I amost forgot what the back of the sub looked like lol. So I noticed the sub is "double slugged" or how people call it. I remember on Fi's website the Q had one magnet. So my question is why did they make the older Q with 2 and the newer ones with 1? Anything changed? Any sort of benefits from it or what? Just courious though. I was thinking of getting anothe…

I was looking into the hifonics amps for price reasons. Looking for an amp around or under 200. I was thinking about the hifonics brz1200.1D. Opinions? This is just going to be a daily driver build with one BL12. Any help is apreciated. And just for kicks, the car is a 1987 Suzuki samurai.

Hey guys Im going to build a new box for my 18" Q. I have 6.7cu. ft. before disp. and port.. which I know is small, which is why I need to use aero's. Right now I have 4x 4"x10" aero ports. can someone give me recommendations. Do I need to get 6" ports?? I know for port area that 2 of these 4" aero's isnt enough, but I think if I go to 3, mine are to short... Can I use the flares, and use PVC pipe to make them longer??

Ok i have two d1 q 15 w/bp power and when I first recieved the subs, they hit extremely hard but after a couple of weeks and a local comp, the subs just dont perform like they used to. when they hit the lows now the bass kind of fades away and sounds like a fart and they dont even put out the pressure like they used to either. I've checked the box first to make sure there were no leaks and everything is fine. I think the spiders have gotten weak cause they just dont "thunder" anymore. Time for recones right?

I am in the process of building a box and am thinking of using polyfill. I just wanted to know if polyfill works the same with ported enclosures or is it purely for sealed boxes only?

so i hear ia is coming out with a 21" subwoofer. should i expect fi to come out with just as big or bigger in the near future? Damon

SSD 10 @ .66 sealed (Recommended Sealed box: .6-1 cuft) SSD 10 @ 1.10 ported (Recommended Ported box: .9-1.5 cuft @ 33Hz) SSD 12 @ .88 sealed (Recommended Sealed box: .6-1 cuft) SSD 12 @ 1.56 ported (Recommended Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 33Hz) SSD 15 @ 3.75 ported (Recommended Ported box: 3-4 cuft @ 33Hz) Q 10 @ .66 sealed (Recommended Sealed box: .2-.6 cuft) Q 10 @ 1.10 ported (Recommended Ported box: .5-1.2 cuft @ 28-33Hz) Q 12 @ .88 sealed (Recommended Sealed box: .8-1.5 cuft) Q 12 @ 1.56 ported (Recommended Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz) Q 15 @ 3.75 ported (Recommended Ported box: 2.8-4 cuft @ 28-33Hz) The sub will be getting RMS, and the sub will be going in …

Hi, idk if someone's read it in my build log but im looking for someone ho can create some blueprints for a dbdrag enclosure.. I'm also ready to pay a little tip for it so like said: Anyone out therer for help? I can give the max dimentionts if someone can do it.. faezich