Fi Technical

Does anyone have or know where to find a wiring diagram that shows how to wire a single 1 ohm sub to 2 ohms?

Just bought a pair of the older double slug Q15's for my buddies install in his Suburban. Can't remember the specs of these models, so I wanted to get it straight from you guys at Fi. They are fully loaded and I also believe they are the high QTS models, as the previous owner had them installed in sealed boxes.... My friend is looking to have me design a sealed enclosure for them, and I am not sure what the recommended volume is for them. Can you help me out? They will be powered with an MB Quart Onyx 1000 @ 2 ohms for about 750 RMS to the pair. Possibly will add a second amp to power each sub on its own amp later down the road, but that has not been decided yet. Merry Ch…

Hello guys, New to the Fi World and need some help making the right subwoofer choice between 10" or 12" before ordering. This will be a trunk install in a Honda S2000 CR so space is a bit limited and box will need to be sealed. System Build (so far): Enclosure "Sealed" Max 1.0 cubic ft before displacement. Max mounting depth ~7.75" Power (2) Digital Designs SS1's strapped = 1200 watts clean (from a previous install) HeadUnit Kenwood KIV-BT900 4.0V pre-amp outputs Wire KnuKonceptz 1/0 awg Battery/Alt Stock for now Distribution Block SoundStream PowerPlant Front stage TBD...DLS, Focal, etc. Although I was interested in the BTL-N1, the mounting depth probably will not allo…

Folks, I want to try to do my first DIY subwoofer for home theater. I've heard some folks say that the SSD or Q series model well for home theater? Which driver would be best.....and what size enclosure (I can build a slot ported box) for home theater use? I would like to be able to go low....but still use for music. Edit: This will be an 18" build...... Thanks! Chris

Well my issue here is a i just picked up a fi btl n2 (came in today) and i'm going to start building the box for it soon. i recently found out to quite a bit of dissapointment, that my rockford fosgate t2500-1bdCP doesn't have a variable subsonic filter, but rather a cheesy switched one. I know i need to tune my amp 2-3 hertz below my enclsoures PTF, but what if my enclosure ends up being out of range or the amplifiers tuning controls? Crossover Controls Low-Pass (LP): 35Hz-250Hz @ 24dB/octave Butterworth Infrasonic: 12dB/octave Butterworth, -3dB @ 28Hz any insight guys?

I have a 12" bl and I currently have it wired with 16 gauge speaker wire and I am about to re-wire it with 12 gauge, by doing this can I expect a a change in the output of the sub?

I bought two bl off cl an want to make them fullyloaded. On the order site for fi they list a 08 an 09 model. Since I'm not the orginal owner an don't know if they are the 08 or 09 how can I figure out what they are. Does it really matter can someone tell me the differences between the two. Thanks guys an gals

alrighty fellas i've decided to go with a 18'' btl-n2 and my truck is a 2000 gmc sierra ext cab long bed. i know the rear seat is gonna be gone i am planning on pushing the 18 with a soundstream dtr3400 and a ported box tuned around 32 hz so if anyone can reccomend enclosure specs i beleive my dimensions with the back seat out are 54'' long , 34'' tall, 24'' deep. if any body can help me out i greatly appreaciate it

I was considering a trade for 2 BTL 15s ( Single slug, spaceship motor), but the subs only have the cooling option. I am going from 4 SA-12s, and I like my lows. I'm powering them with 2 Audiopipe AP3ks. I was gonna run them in 3.5 per (7net), and tune between 30-33hz. I listen to alot of rap, low bass music, and I really want to be able to play in the high 20s/low 30s with authority. With just cooling, will these 15s be able to produce like I want them to? I'm only getting rid of the SAs to do a forward firing/sealed off setup, and I can't get 4 12s to fit in a blowthrough. I also wanted to see what FI was all about Thanks for any help

Hey guys girls just wondering before i tear the system outta my tahoe and redo it which box will be better....the current box is for 2 18" fully loaded BTLS...ea sub has 6cuft after displacement and tuned to 32hrtz...but would it be louder deeper etc if the box was 1 chamber tuned with both subs..kinda like steve meades...just wondering.....also running 300amp ho alt (soon to be 2) big 3 all 0 gauge 5 batteries 2 US AMP MD-3D 1 on ea sub....let me know if im forgetting anything thanks

Ok, I am used to building the everyday run of the mill square sealed boxes. I have a 4 door truck with the 60/40 split seat, which I will be removing the 40 section and building a box with an upward firing sub...but I am thinking of porting this one. My question is, can I run ports out of PVC that sit about 2" inside the box and run external under the other part of the seat? Trying to think of some options to possibly install a 15" BL instead of a 12. And the volume of the pvc pipe should be equivalent to the total recommended port in the BL specs correct?

Needing a basket, as the title shows. I was wondering if you two could hook me up with something for an experiment that a friend and I are looking to undertake. I need a basket that will bolt to any of the listed motors, we have a few right now, there's a Treo SSX 534 ounce, 12" motor with a 3" coil, and a Treo 582 ounce 18" motor with a 4" coil, then we have 2 RF power series motors that are old school- like the HX2's that have 4'' coils, and we have an Orion HCCA motor with a 3'' coil. Was hoping maybe I could get an 18" or a 22" basket to play with? Let me know if you guys can help me! Got any parts for the 22" lineup machined yet? I would be happy to test some of the…

So i only have like ~180 watts from the back two channels on my amp it is a JL J2 320.4. Im on a budget like mad here unfortunately and that amp was $99 not seeing anything else for that kinda money recently. So i snatched it up. I am running the front two channels on boston acoustic rallye series 5.25 co-ax, the back two channels will be bridged to a subwoofer that amp will do 60x4 at 4ohm 80x4 at 2 ohm. Ive read they are a tad bit underated so 160-180 watts is all i can expect. If i buy and X will that be enough amp sealed? I dont really think i wanna get a ported box right now. Ive not had bass for 3 years+ so im kinda starting out very slow but quality cause i …

hi, i am planning a new system and i have decided to give FI subs a try. so my question is how much RMS can a 15" Q really handle with the cooling, spider, and i ring heat coil? i was looking to throw 2200 rms at it. i also looked at the BL but its out of my price range and i want SQ. my last system consisted of 2 15L7s that i had on 3200 rms. they were rated at 750 rms each but were taking more than double in a 10 cube ported box, so im thinking these Q's can handle what i have in store for them. the sub will be going in a trunk of a crown vic. i know that fi subs are underrated but i dont know much. the amp will most likely be an aq2200d. as far as electrical goes i ha…

I got new 2 Fi 18's Q series unloaded, no options on them at all. whats the most amount of RMS power I can put on each one???? Im getting the Audiopipe 3000d amp and wiring them at 2 ohms and that would put 1500 rms on them.

i have 2 woofers that i had bought from Brian Owens off of CA.com that wer crossfire motors with a fi basket & BTL softparts. i had an issue with one of them before and emailed FI and got a fast reply and they fixed it and got it back to me within a week. well i have since torn the spiders on these woofers and contacted to get them reconed several months ago but got no reply. i just let it go and they have been sitting for awhile. well i sold 2 of the motors and ordered BTL recones to do it myself as i have done for other production BTL's before. well im not sure if i ordered the kits for the wrong series of BTL's or what but i did one and messed it up somehow the coi…

So I just ordered two of these X 10's without really paying close attention. I have an Audiopipe APSM1300 amp that does 600@2ohm and 1000@1ohm. My question is are these subs maybe a little underrated because I've also read these amps might be a little overrated. I can always turn the gains and bass level down and go easy on the volume knob. Does this sound like it may work? I dont really have much more of a budget for subs. Im also not looking to be real loud.

I have a 12" bl with a kicker zx1000.1 and an optima red top for a battery and even with the gain only half way up I am getting headlight dimming and my amp is clipping. I have a friend with the same amp and the 15" bl and his doesn't clip and he has a weaker battery so I have no idea why mine keeps clipping.

I want it to be on the bigger side so it has better output. Anyone got a layout?

ok i have a major question i just payed for two of the 12" x series subs on the black "Fi"day sale so my question is are they 300w rms like the site says or really 250w rms beacause if they are 250 i will have to change my order to some different subs because i need more wattage than 250 i was hoping the 300w rms it said on the site was right and maybe even underated so i could push 700w rms through the both of them

does anyone have a cut sheet like the ones posted but with 2 18 btls Thanks in advance

After first seeing the specs on the website, I noticed there are a few necessary specs not included. #1: I noticed the xmax, but nowhere did I see the xlim. #2: Recommended type of port(s)? (shape/size/depth) If I list the specs of my vehicle, maybe someone can get an idea and throw me some info. If any other info is needed, just ask. 1995 GMC Sierra LT ext cab 6.5ft bed. Rear seat bottom and back will be removed. .75" MDF enclosure with internal dimensions of 45"W x 30"H x 25"D. Subs will be up-firing. Should ports be front, rear, up or side firing? Where should the ports be located in terms of speaker location, between subs, at corners, etc? I will be aiming for…

I am getting one 10" Fi SSD sub-woofer very soon and I am having a bit of trouble on what to do for the enclosure. I drive a small, 1998 Ford Pickup, single cab. I am convinced, and determined, that it is possible to put a sub in any vehicle, but there really is very limited space back there to put anything. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions? I am looking for the best sound I can get, but I understand if it won't be optimal. Getting the materials and building it will be no problem, just need to know how to tackle this.

Found pretty vague threads on this subject, so posting my own. Just wondering how well the BTL would hold up on a T2500-1bdCP rockford wired down to 1 ohm. This is my first Fi sub and i don't know how touchy they are. I'm going keep the box within specs ofc. 34 Hz, etc.....upgraded the electrical and have a guy thats excellent at tuning. I'm not crazy with the volume or gain so I figure running this beast at 2500 shouldn't be a problem, but just wanted to make sure with you guys if you have any experience with this. Thanks.

Hey guys I was hopeing to get help on designing a box for my little brothers geo metro... He is over seas in the army and should be back in a few weeks so i decided i wanted to surprise him.. All I know is he doesnt want a wall built in the car (he likes his back window), So the max dimensions i have are 35" wide x 36" long x 20" tall. I have a mtx 1501d amp to push the beast so far and also dual alternators and 2 sp1000 stinger batteries. Any help would be very appeciated thank you.. also i could even try to send some money if someone did design it but no guarantees on that we all know how tight money is... Thanks Gator