Fi Technical

Ok, I am used to building the everyday run of the mill square sealed boxes. I have a 4 door truck with the 60/40 split seat, which I will be removing the 40 section and building a box with an upward firing sub...but I am thinking of porting this one. My question is, can I run ports out of PVC that sit about 2" inside the box and run external under the other part of the seat? Trying to think of some options to possibly install a 15" BL instead of a 12. And the volume of the pvc pipe should be equivalent to the total recommended port in the BL specs correct?

Hey guys girls just wondering before i tear the system outta my tahoe and redo it which box will be better....the current box is for 2 18" fully loaded BTLS...ea sub has 6cuft after displacement and tuned to 32hrtz...but would it be louder deeper etc if the box was 1 chamber tuned with both subs..kinda like steve meades...just wondering.....also running 300amp ho alt (soon to be 2) big 3 all 0 gauge 5 batteries 2 US AMP MD-3D 1 on ea sub....let me know if im forgetting anything thanks

Hello Guys/Gals, I was wondering if cold weather will damage a sub? Do I need to keep it down till warmer weather, or can i just let them wang? I live in northern Indiana and its currently in the teens here, so stuff gets brittle... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

So i only have like ~180 watts from the back two channels on my amp it is a JL J2 320.4. Im on a budget like mad here unfortunately and that amp was $99 not seeing anything else for that kinda money recently. So i snatched it up. I am running the front two channels on boston acoustic rallye series 5.25 co-ax, the back two channels will be bridged to a subwoofer that amp will do 60x4 at 4ohm 80x4 at 2 ohm. Ive read they are a tad bit underated so 160-180 watts is all i can expect. If i buy and X will that be enough amp sealed? I dont really think i wanna get a ported box right now. Ive not had bass for 3 years+ so im kinda starting out very slow but quality cause i …

I was considering a trade for 2 BTL 15s ( Single slug, spaceship motor), but the subs only have the cooling option. I am going from 4 SA-12s, and I like my lows. I'm powering them with 2 Audiopipe AP3ks. I was gonna run them in 3.5 per (7net), and tune between 30-33hz. I listen to alot of rap, low bass music, and I really want to be able to play in the high 20s/low 30s with authority. With just cooling, will these 15s be able to produce like I want them to? I'm only getting rid of the SAs to do a forward firing/sealed off setup, and I can't get 4 12s to fit in a blowthrough. I also wanted to see what FI was all about Thanks for any help

I got new 2 Fi 18's Q series unloaded, no options on them at all. whats the most amount of RMS power I can put on each one???? Im getting the Audiopipe 3000d amp and wiring them at 2 ohms and that would put 1500 rms on them.

Needing a basket, as the title shows. I was wondering if you two could hook me up with something for an experiment that a friend and I are looking to undertake. I need a basket that will bolt to any of the listed motors, we have a few right now, there's a Treo SSX 534 ounce, 12" motor with a 3" coil, and a Treo 582 ounce 18" motor with a 4" coil, then we have 2 RF power series motors that are old school- like the HX2's that have 4'' coils, and we have an Orion HCCA motor with a 3'' coil. Was hoping maybe I could get an 18" or a 22" basket to play with? Let me know if you guys can help me! Got any parts for the 22" lineup machined yet? I would be happy to test some of the…

hi, i am planning a new system and i have decided to give FI subs a try. so my question is how much RMS can a 15" Q really handle with the cooling, spider, and i ring heat coil? i was looking to throw 2200 rms at it. i also looked at the BL but its out of my price range and i want SQ. my last system consisted of 2 15L7s that i had on 3200 rms. they were rated at 750 rms each but were taking more than double in a 10 cube ported box, so im thinking these Q's can handle what i have in store for them. the sub will be going in a trunk of a crown vic. i know that fi subs are underrated but i dont know much. the amp will most likely be an aq2200d. as far as electrical goes i ha…

i have 2 woofers that i had bought from Brian Owens off of CA.com that wer crossfire motors with a fi basket & BTL softparts. i had an issue with one of them before and emailed FI and got a fast reply and they fixed it and got it back to me within a week. well i have since torn the spiders on these woofers and contacted to get them reconed several months ago but got no reply. i just let it go and they have been sitting for awhile. well i sold 2 of the motors and ordered BTL recones to do it myself as i have done for other production BTL's before. well im not sure if i ordered the kits for the wrong series of BTL's or what but i did one and messed it up somehow the coi…

I want it to be on the bigger side so it has better output. Anyone got a layout?

I bought two bl off cl an want to make them fullyloaded. On the order site for fi they list a 08 an 09 model. Since I'm not the orginal owner an don't know if they are the 08 or 09 how can I figure out what they are. Does it really matter can someone tell me the differences between the two. Thanks guys an gals

does anyone have a cut sheet like the ones posted but with 2 18 btls Thanks in advance

I cut a box according to the ssd cut sheets, and it is in a 08 mazda 6i sedan (non hatch model). well.. Downside is it does not fit with the sub facing the seats. I gutted the trunk to bare metal to see if it would help me try to squeeze it in.. NADA. I PROMISE you it does not fit any other way unless I somehow build it in the trunk. So my dilemma, is that the sub is pointing straight up towards a panel, and a lot of the bass "energy" is soaked up from it. Is anyone knowledgeable to give me the smallest possible dimensions for 33hz ported box? I suck at numbers, they give me headaches, and I failed alg. twice in college.. lol. I know that sounds lazy, but sub boxes are n…

So I just ordered two of these X 10's without really paying close attention. I have an Audiopipe APSM1300 amp that does 600@2ohm and 1000@1ohm. My question is are these subs maybe a little underrated because I've also read these amps might be a little overrated. I can always turn the gains and bass level down and go easy on the volume knob. Does this sound like it may work? I dont really have much more of a budget for subs. Im also not looking to be real loud.

getting two 12inch BTL's fully loaded, dual 2 whats the optimal cubic feet this box should consist of and optimal port size

Found pretty vague threads on this subject, so posting my own. Just wondering how well the BTL would hold up on a T2500-1bdCP rockford wired down to 1 ohm. This is my first Fi sub and i don't know how touchy they are. I'm going keep the box within specs ofc. 34 Hz, etc.....upgraded the electrical and have a guy thats excellent at tuning. I'm not crazy with the volume or gain so I figure running this beast at 2500 shouldn't be a problem, but just wanted to make sure with you guys if you have any experience with this. Thanks.

I have a 12" bl with a kicker zx1000.1 and an optima red top for a battery and even with the gain only half way up I am getting headlight dimming and my amp is clipping. I have a friend with the same amp and the 15" bl and his doesn't clip and he has a weaker battery so I have no idea why mine keeps clipping.

I am getting one 10" Fi SSD sub-woofer very soon and I am having a bit of trouble on what to do for the enclosure. I drive a small, 1998 Ford Pickup, single cab. I am convinced, and determined, that it is possible to put a sub in any vehicle, but there really is very limited space back there to put anything. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions? I am looking for the best sound I can get, but I understand if it won't be optimal. Getting the materials and building it will be no problem, just need to know how to tackle this.

Hey guys I was hopeing to get help on designing a box for my little brothers geo metro... He is over seas in the army and should be back in a few weeks so i decided i wanted to surprise him.. All I know is he doesnt want a wall built in the car (he likes his back window), So the max dimensions i have are 35" wide x 36" long x 20" tall. I have a mtx 1501d amp to push the beast so far and also dual alternators and 2 sp1000 stinger batteries. Any help would be very appeciated thank you.. also i could even try to send some money if someone did design it but no guarantees on that we all know how tight money is... Thanks Gator

I have an 18" Bl and i want to know what gauge wire you think would be best to run from the speaker terminals to the sub from a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BD. Thanks!!! I want the most power i can get to it so im thinking 8 guage but may be too big so please help!!

Hi there, after trying to build my own ported box , with certain limitations, i came to ask myself that why do we need 12-16 sq inches of port are per cufeet ? The answer was to avoid air shuffing. BUT ! If a box is 3cufeet , the good book says to use minimum of 36 sq inches(minimum) port area for it, now if we use the same sub to play in a 5 cu feet box, port area increases to 12X5 = 60sq niches (minimum) Now i am guessing that the subwoofer will not miraculously start to push more air ,and that we may have to increase the port area to avoid air shuffing. The sub should displace the same amount of air in a 3 cu feet box or 5 cu ft box. So , why not use 36 sq inches port …

ok i have a major question i just payed for two of the 12" x series subs on the black "Fi"day sale so my question is are they 300w rms like the site says or really 250w rms beacause if they are 250 i will have to change my order to some different subs because i need more wattage than 250 i was hoping the 300w rms it said on the site was right and maybe even underated so i could push 700w rms through the both of them

Ok I am new and have been reading the forums for a few hours, and I can not find any specific questions on this topic. I want to know what these certain specs mean. Sub OD: 18.500” | 18.500” Cut ID: 16.750” | 16.750” Displacement: 0.18cuft | 0.18cuft also when it says Dual 1 ohm that means dual voice coil with 2000w RMS at 1 ohms and when it says dual 2 ohm that means dual voice coil with 2000w RMS at 2 ohm?

Hey I have a 12" fi bl and I need to recone it I have it all striped down and the basket I sanded all that crap off but I need some advice on how to recone the sub and what I should do thanks for your help

Would it work out fine if i were to buy an BL or BTL, build an enclosure to spec, and power it with a crown amp or something or is that a dumb idea?