Fi Technical

I believe I will be running this amp at 1ohm to my dual 2 ohm sub. Will this sub handle what is said to be 1500w RMS from the SAZ (which I have heard is under rated)? I am not planning to pin the gain or anything, I just do not want to blow the sub.

Hello again hey everyone i am trying to built my box for 2 18" fully loaded dual 2ohm btl's...I am either running 2 md-3d amps (us amps ) 2000rms at 1ohm or hifonics brutus amp (not sure model number) it does 2000rms @1ohm ...and i want to have the box @ 5cu per side tuned at 32hrzt that seems to be a good spot for daily ground pounder but not sure about port size the box is going in a 99 yukon so room isnt a issue...please help thanks agian

i just planned to put my 18 btl in a 6th order bandpass (60 hz / 30 hz tuning) and i already got the wood sawed too. ive never tried a bp yet so i thought it would be nice to give it a chance. what do you think? is it better to put the btl in a big ported box or go with the 6 th order. i currently have a 5 cft ported box @ 30 hz but i want to increase efficiency and loudness of the box. amp is a bxi 2610.

I bought a used 18" ssd from a buddy.. I sorta wanted to due a sealed box with it but I was told you need the copper coil option to be able to due a sealed box.. I just didnt know if there was any way to tell. Any help appreciated alot

Ok, well i had no idea about tuning or anything when i made my first box. its 9.5 cubic ft with 90 in of port area, and i ran the port length till about the back of the box. ( pics soon). what i was wondering is can anyone provide me with the actual formula for calculating my port length. ( so i can just plug in hz volume and port area? ive got some calculators but like to see everything out. here is what im trying to accomplish by just cutting the box. 34 hz tuning 7.5 cubic ft 90in squared of port area if i my box in a 01 grand am running from my trunk to my back seat, with the btl right in the back seat and the port under it. if i put the port in the trunk would it mak…

My buddy is trying to put a 18" fi ssd fully loaded in the back of his eagle summit van.. He has about 1200 watt rms of power to run the sub.. There is two different set of max dimensions we can use ( it all depends on how tall the box will actually be. The first set is a tall narrow box and our max dimensions are 27 1/4 tall X 39 wide X 15 Deep. And the other set is 20 1/2 deep X 39 wide X 21 tall. Any help would be wonderful... Would really like start build on box as soon as we can.. Also I would like it ported wit a tune right around 32 hz. And I not sure wat would sound best wit the speaker direction and port direction so any advice is wonderful.

Im in the process of having a box built for my tahoe for a 18" BTL. my boxes dont always come out the way i want so i decided to have this one made by someone who knows what they are doin.. well me being the kind of person i am.. ill bring the info i have from him to you guys and hope to get some support or get me in the right direction. Guy is fully aware of the BTL's and has made several boxes for them in the past. He says he would like to make it 8.5 cubes tuned to 30-35hz and says he will give it a little bit more port area than Fi recommends... does this sound ok to you guys? anyone have something similar or done anything similar. I know here in the fi forums its say…

So here the deal i just came up on two 12 inch D2 Fi Qs. What to do? i have a 3 cube net box i have that i made to fit under my seat in my truck. ported@35 Im just using the Q or Qs untill my SA-8 come in from sundown I have good electrical and will be run off a SAZ-1500d. The question is should i run 1 Q ported in my box at 1 OHM or seal my port and run both at .5 or 2 OHMS. Im looking for loudest. I know Qs arent for LOUD applications, but this system is temperary just to hold me over.

I was just wondering, if when adding a port to your box do I minus the width of port and then I'll have my true area of space the actual woofers will be in?

I'm going atleast a 7cuft box tuned to somewhat 30-35hzt range. I'm building my own box and the subs aren't here yet. According to UPS the subs weigh in at 54lbs each. I'm simply asking if i should double baffle the box?

I have a 15 inch q with bp already, and I need a second one. Just wondering if the parameters will still be close enough that they can share an enclosure and be alright. The new and the old.

Ok well I am going to be buying a 15 BL here soon and I just found out that the entrance of my trunk is 15" maybe 15.5" so there's no real way to have it facing back how should I set up the box since I can't do it this way? dimensions of trunk are H15" W32" D30"

These questions may have been answered before but a quick search did not turn up the obvious answers. I have 2 completely separate and very specific applications I'm looking at for 12" drivers (neither of which involve being inside a vehicle BTW) and I need a little bit more information to help in the decision making process. What is the motor OD on the Q series and the BTL (11.5" I think?) What is the overall depth of the 12" version of the Q and BTL? Also what is the motor only depth of both from the back of the frame? What is the generic xmech of both series? It's nearly the same I assume as baskets, vc od and suspensions are very similar. I figure about 35-36mm inwa…

I want to make an SPL system so I`m asking what option should I set and this sub is good for spl. Sorry for my english I`m from Bulgaria.

I got a 15"BL D2 w/ p chamber option running off a RF P1000-1BD (1382 rms@1ohm) in a Pound That Sound ported enclousre (3.0cf3 tuned @35hz) and i would say this is the best sounding/loudest sub i have EVER!!! gotten,, it still sounds amazing after pounding it very hard for a year now but i think its time for an upgrade... I was thinking about finially getting a 15"BTL D2 running off a RF T1500-1BD (about 1800 or more rms@1ohm) any suggestions on wht to get before i ordeer the sub.. I have a 05' Kia Spectra(yes its a small car lol),, i was thinkin about gettin a yellow top battery and a digital volt meter (but dnt knw where to get it from).. the sub is going to be facing t…

So i had 2 of these sealed and decided on going one ported. I had the other in my room for about a month, before selling it to my brother. He got through with the enclosure built, and put the sub in but there was no sound. Its a dual 1 ohm so it is wired to 2 ohms (triple checked it). When we hook up either side, the sub will play, but when wired to 2 ohms there is no sound. Tried the sub in another car and the exact same thing happens. Any suggestions on what is going on?

I got two 15 inch BLs and I would just like to know how to tune the enclosure port to 33 hz? Is there some sort of program that could show me how?

i have 2 18btls but only one can fit in my car with a ported box. actually i want to sell one btl but in case i dont find a customer who buys it for a reasonable price, can i put both btls in a sealed box? as the other btl would just lay around losing price. i know fi doesnt recommend that. and i know i will lose alot of spl. but how would the sq change?

Can anyone recommend one? I purchased a dual 2 ohm Fi BL 15 and my current amp does not have a subsonic filter (which the install guy says will be needed to best tune the system). Some of the amps on the SSA website don't tell me what load they are stable at in Mono.

I took my woofer to my install bay today and they were shocked I wanted to tune to 33hz. They felt that was way too low. Now, I listen to all types of music, pop, #1 hits, old school rock etc... but mostly Sirius hio channels and some Ipod songs (JayZ etc...) I just want to be sure this box is tuned to where I need it to be. He wants to build it to 4 cubic ft and tune it to 38 - 40hz but I see almost everyone on here tuned lower. Thoughts?

I recently hooked up 2 Fi BL 10's to a pdx 1.1000 connected to the battery by 4 gauge wire. Within ten minutes of playing i had blown the fuse coming from the battery to the amp. I was wondering if attempting to run this setup off 4 gauge wiring is hindering the ability of the system and if it would be beneficial to up the wire to a 0 gauge. Thanks in advance for the help The fuse was a 10GA stinger fuse, switched to a 25A raptor ANL fuse & holder after burning the fuse. I switched because the stinger fuses were too spendy.

If I have a traditional trunk (large 300c trunk) and I fire the sub towards the back but fire the port up on the passenger side of the car, does the direction of the port make any difference, up, back side? I assume it would a little if there was resistance from say a seatback or side trim but up into the rear window or towards the empty trunk in the back, will there be much of a difference in the cabin as far as sound etc... Just got my 15 BL today ($105 extra for DELIVERY WTF?!) and can't wait to get it in... I am going to tune it to 33 or 34 hz PS: How reliable is the ported box calculator at reaudio?

Hello, Today I pulled my Q12 from the box (Dual 2) and tested both voice coils. They seem to settle at about 1.4 to 1.5 ohm. Is this normal for a dual 2? *It has not seen power yet.

So I finally had finished my box, got my amp and my subs came, I was just waiting for the opportunity to install I got it all hooked up and no sound... After some trouble shooting- I hooked up an old amp and speaker to make sure all my power stuff was ok and my head unit was providing signal and so my old amp and speaker worked fine... So I replaced the amp thinking that was the problem and I am still having the same issue... So either there is a problem with my two BLs, a wiring issue, or an amp settings issue... Heres the specs on my system I hope you guys can shed some light on my situation... Thanks 2 10 in FiBL 1 Ohm DVC Hifonics BXI 2608D Kenwood DNX 5120 Headunit S…

i have designed a 7 cft enclosure for an 18 btl. the volume is with woofer displacement. how do i calculate a port to 30 hz then? is this ok?: 4,72" * 19,69" * 29,92"