Fi Technical

I currently have a fi btl 15 fully loaded and i planed on using knu konceptz 8 gauge speaker wire but when i tried to wire the sub up the wires were too big haha...so is there anyway i can make the wires fit ive looked at banana clips and wire reducers but i dont know what to use and if it will distort or loose power

What's the best way to solder the tinsel leads onto the terminals with these new recones that have the leads coming out of the spiders. There are 4 lead wires for each positive and each negative. I think its obvious I won't be able to fit them through the ring on the terminal, so how should they be soldered? Should some slack be left?

I have a 2001 PT Cruiser with a alpine 9887 hu: I used to have to pussy type s subs in the hatch and just didnt cut it at all. Saw the FI Q and fell in love.. So here is my questions if a get the Q 15 with BP and a Bxi1206D amp and then a PDX100.4 what do i need to do to so i have adequete electric power to have it all run???and if yall have any product suggestions please feel free...but i am only 17 and just graduated high school so i aint the richest kid around.

Can we get a section pinned to this forum of the options and what they do with the sp4 and also enclosure recommendations

I'm going back & forth between using 2 15" IB3's & 1 18" IB3, but am a little concerned about their output between 50-80hz. I'm going to use 8" pro audio midbass in my doors, but from what I've read they shouldn't be crossed lower than 80hz. Does anyone have any input they can give me on the IB3 line playing these higher frequencies?

Would I be able to get a machined compression plug for my RE XXX v3 motor on my next recone to help with cooling? Will it negatively affect performance?

Been debatin on 3 10" bls or 1 15" BTL off of 4Kw. I'm thinkin about goin with 1 15" BTL so i got some questions. What options do i need exactly for the following scenario? - It's for daily, tuned to 33hz, running off of 4kw of power. No SPL but i will be playing, sometimes, bass tracks for show off purposes. Absolutely no clipping guaranteed. Let me know if this is correct or if i should change\add something- Cooling, HIXMcoil, 3rd mag(do i need?), Daily. Can the BTL take 4KW daily? I know Meade does it but is it still safe in Fi's eyes? And i would like a discussion on the cooling option. It states not to get it if used for SPL. Can someone please define what specifi…

Just a quick question, I have a JL 12W6V2 that I bought on ebay a couple of years ago. Sub worked fine for a while, but eventully died on me (my fault of course, got a lil greedy with the gains lol)and has been collecting dust at the house ever since. I was wondering if FI can do a recone on this sub? Thanks.

I want it to be on the bigger side so it has better output. Anyone got a layout?

Hello, This is my first time building a box. I would like to hear any thoughts you might have before I get to building. I just recently purchased 2x FI Q 12's dual 1's with cooling, and spider. I designed a box for a 2002 gmc envoy. These subs will be pushed by a Crescendo BC2000D. (May eventually upgrade to a 3500 or 2x 2000's). Box is 5.0 cu ft and is tuned around 32hz. Heres what I came up with. My main concern is if I did the port length correctly and if I calculated the bracing displacement correctly.

hi i have a 2nd gen btl i have a 5cubic foot box tuned a 33 hz i want to tune my amp but i dont no how to figure out how many volts each ch can take can anyone help thanks im runnning a hifonics brutus brz2400.1

I am planning on ordering a 12" Q sometime soon. I have the design for a 6th order parallel bandpass enclosure. Tuning is 2.5 cu ft @ 32Hz and 0.590 cu ft @ 74Hz. My Q will have the cooling option so it will have somewhere around 12-1500 rms. I will be powering this by my SAZ-1500d @ 1 ohm. This is going into my 2000 Celica. My question is do you guys think I need the extra spider? The price is not my concern (just $5 difference). But I heard this option takes away from SQ, but I also heard that if you go over rated power on the Q, you need to add an extra spider. IF i do get the extra spider, how big of a difference in the change of SQ? Any input helps

Does anyone have a contact number for them?

I just got a 12 Q D2 with BP power hooked up with a JL 500/1. in a sealed 1.5(20*13*15.5) after sub displacement. is the amp to little for the sub? i set the amp to JL specs. and then i get clipping. i've used the same amp on others subs and get better sound and more power out of it. but with ported boxes using the same JL specs. how should i set it with a sealed box?

hi there i need some help with a box design. i plan on sealling off the trunk in my civic. i have a fully loaded btl. the box in it pounds now on highs. its a dual ported box not sure if its effecting more or less out put of the sub or not just wondering if a single ported box will be different its tuned at 35hz. i have a little over 5 cubes. i am looking for a single ported design with both the sub and the port firing forward. i plan on also doing competitions with this setup. i just got a new alternator coming and 1/0 guage wire. i am going to get a kinetics 16 volt battery or two depending on if i need it. but what box design would you recommend for spl and bass race.l…

I wanna get a box built for my civic but don't know wtf to look for. Ok some info I plan on getting 1 fully loaded 15" btl when they update the site, and I wanna run at the most 2000w to it. Right now I only got an 800w amp but I plan on upgrading to a rockford fosgate t20001bd within a month. I also wanted to go ported instead of sealed on the box and I'm not to sure what Hz I should go with. Damn I feel so loss but I guess we all gotta start somewhere. So I'd appreciate the help and if more info is needed I'll give it. Thanks in advance

Doing some box designs and wanted a little help on picking what hrtz to tune the box at. I read the post from Fi about tuning and it says anywhere beteween 30-37 hrtz. I will have around 8.5 cuft for each sub and wanted to hear some suggestions on tuning. The enclosure will have the ports facing twords the rear with the subs mounted on the top side of the enclosure. I listin to mostly rap music and want it to be loud as it can be. The subs will be pushed by 2 Alpine PDX 1000.1's for now, but down the road will be pushed by 2 PDX's on each 18 1 on each voice coil at 2ohms for a total of 2000 watts to each sub. Thanks, this site has helped me alot so far, the best sit…

hello i currently have one 18" bl in my trunk and the box pretty much takes up all of the usable space, i have this box : http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...mp;Fs=&CE=0 Anyways i was wondering if it's possible to fit a second 18 while still keeping the box dimensions because i can't make it any bigger due to space restrictions..any help is appreciated..thanks

I was wondering if you could possibly give me plans for a ported box for 1 fully loaded BTL 12" dual 1ohm sub. Powered by an Earthquake PHD10000d 3000 watt amp. My trunk dimensions are 36"L x 36"W x 17"H. here is the plans I got off a website. How does this look?

So i got my 15Qd2, and it seems to be running pretty warm. No smoke or anything, just that when i get home from banging on it a bit it feels a little hot. Just got it two weeks ago so not sure if it's still just from breaking in, which i'm thinking not, or maybe from low voltage?? It's running off of a fosgate p1000-1bd and the gain is just over half and under 3/4. My lights do dim a lot when it hits. There is a little smell, but smells more like breaking in smell, not vc burning smell, hence no smoke and when i took it out a few days ago vc still looked brand new. Basically, any thoughts on getting the sub to run cooler?? I'm thinking this could become an issue if p…

i need some help on how to set my amp to my new FI BL 15... its 1500 rms amp... i know to turn my bass boost all the way down, and to set my subsonic filter 2 or 3 seeting below my box tuning. but. im still pretty much oblivious to the settings for my new sub... can somone help me out with some opinions? would be very helpful.

Ok I read the options page and I understand it pretty well. My question is I know I need to get one of the cooling options on the sub but which one? The sub will be used for daily. If I go with cooling, the strength of the motor will be reduced but if I g with just teh p/chamfer option, will it be enough to keep things under control? I really don't want to loose any structural integrity inside the motor if I don't have to. And the inner heat sink? I don't quite understand that one what is it for, and do I need it? So the options that I think I need are: p/chamfer, hi xmax coil, daily, universal? Would these options be what Ineed for daily 2k+ rms? thanks

i have 2 12inch BTL's and was wonderin what the best cuft and hz would sound the best. i listen to lots of rap and like my music low and loud. also how much sq in of port should i have?? should it be a port for each speaker or can it just be a big port in the middle?? i have a drawing that i like but it isnt tuned right. i'll try to get a pic up of it. if someone would like to email me or pm me my email is [email protected]. any help would greatly be apreciated. also someone was tryin to tell me that btl's are not good daily drivers that they wouldnt sound very good...any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated. thanks

Fully loaded BTL 15" w/ single saz1500d sounds like a whole bunch of sealed 10's. Except it goes lower and gets louder. The Police's greatest hits sounds great. I'm having some front stage issues, so I've been focusing on the bass... This BTL has great SQ! Better than my friends believed it would sound. Better than I expected too. I can't wait to add the other 1500d and 'glass the enclosure and also run a 100.4 on some CDT's.

Guys i am fully aware that the flatwind and the coppercoils are two options you can not get together... My question is why can they not be done together (i am trying to learn all i can about the build of these subs for sheer knowledge) ? I was guessing that scott hasn't found the right coil for the flatwind to get a favorable response to have both copper and flatwind.... And if there is any great advantages to having both, WILL they eventually be a way to get both options? And if you guys were to find a way to incorporate both will the Q later have an option for the copper coil (I suspect the Q has a flatwind on it, thus no option for a copper coil)?