Fi Technical

so i've got up to 15 high x 32 wide x 20 deep to build an enclosure for my fi btl 12; it'd be going in the back of my jeep liberty. and im planning on using this sub daily on an alpine m2000 that i just got and the birth sheet says it'll put out 2274 watts, so i'll be playing it at its max. but i also want to start entering the local spl comps and i know the fi site says that 30-35 hz is where it should be and 32 is optimal, but i was wondering what would be the loudest hz for my application? thanks in advance

K, now I know what you are all going to say, BUT before you do please give this a read. I have a pair of BTL 15's (D2) that I am planning on running with a pair of SAZ-3000D's I know the box recommendation is 3-5ft^3, with the power, would I be better off staying on the smaller side? I know when you start going bigger the mechanical ability sub goes down, but the trade off is more forcefull bottom end (which I would like to have). I'm planning to have between 6-8ft^3 net enclosure tuned fairly low around 30-32hz Just curious as to what you guys think about my ideas

My fully loaded BL 15" came in today so started to design my box. I want to use an 8" aeroport and wasn't sure if it has enough port area. Box is 5.5 ft.3, 8"x17.5" flared aero tuned to 33hz and going to be powered by a DD M3a at .5ohm. Will the 8" aero suffice or will it choke the sub?

Im going to put a 10" bl under my rear seats and need to know if it will fit. My box is going to measure 7.5" in height and the bottom of the seat is 9.5" tall. Is 2" enough room for the excursion of the bl? If not should i use 5/8" MDF or 1/2" MDF

Can anyone tell me the exact weight of a Fi Q 12"

i need some help designing a box i have a 1999 explorer xlt 4 door i am running a 18"btl fully loaded daily on a fusion nv2500 my current box is 19h 24w 33d outside dim. with 2 6" pvc ports 15" long. ports and sub firing at hatch. i want to fire sub up and port back and change to a 30x30x16tall any help on port LxWxH would be grate!also any other input just looking to change up i was told sub up port back would be louder.

I am planning on ordering a 12" Q sometime soon. I have the design for a 6th order parallel bandpass enclosure. Tuning is 2.5 cu ft @ 32Hz and 0.590 cu ft @ 74Hz. My Q will have the cooling option so it will have somewhere around 12-1500 rms. I will be powering this by my SAZ-1500d @ 1 ohm. This is going into my 2000 Celica. My question is do you guys think I need the extra spider? The price is not my concern (just $5 difference). But I heard this option takes away from SQ, but I also heard that if you go over rated power on the Q, you need to add an extra spider. IF i do get the extra spider, how big of a difference in the change of SQ? Any input helps

Can someone post some pics of the extreme leads? I'm curious to see what they look like lol.it would be greatly appreciated.thanks!

Im driving a Dodge dakota extended cab and im going to be running 2 12" fi q's. I was wondering if it would be better to face the subs towards the front of the truck firing at the back of the seats, or firing towards the ceiling of the truck. Thanks in advance for any help!

Does the FI Q have any Shorting rings, do you guys use rings on any of your drivers

so i have a d2 bl that will be on a saz1500 and was wondering on basic guidelines for a box. im looking for input from those who have played with em, or can tell me from other experiences whether or not 2.0 w/ around 40^2in of port would be okay. with the sub and amp in consideration should i go bigger/smaller, more/less port?

Hello, Does anyone have any experience with Fatbox enclosures? I am interesting in buying their box for the FI BTL 15", and was wondering if the box is actually to spec and worth buying. Here are the specs and link: http://www.fatboxusa.com/servlet/the-272/1%22-MDF-15%22-FI/Detail SPECS: - 48 SQ. IN. PORT AREA - DIMENSIONS: 18" HEIGHT, 34" WIDTH, 20 3/8" DEPTH - 4.0 CU.FT.NET VOLUME (AFTER SUBWOOFER AND ALL BRACING DISPLACEMENTS) - NET TUNING: 32HZ (AFTER SUBWOOFER AND ALL BRACING DISPLACEMENTS) - MATTE BLACK PORT FINISH - ALL 1" THICK INDUSTRIAL MDF / 2" THICK BAFFLE/SUB MOUNTING! - 100% ROCK SOLID 1" INDUSTRIAL MDF - BEST OF THE BEST! - ALL JOINTS BONDED, NO LIQUID GL…

Went with 10" bl, cooled, RF t10001bd at 1 ohm, 1cf ported box, (which is tuned a little high, might take apart and add an L to the port to lengthen it and drop tuning a bit). Just bought a 200amp alt. 1/0 wire all around, 4awg on alt. Was wondering if i should go for a cap, read that independent testing puts this amp closer to 1500watts at 1 ohm and want plenty of aux power, for starting the car and what not. Also should I stuff the box? Been a while since i had bass in the car, but then nit was just a thrown together mismatch system with no regard to resistance on the amp or any other important factor for that matter..wanna do it right this time. Any advice is appreciat…

Hi, I'm getting a Fi 12" Q and need some help on a ported box. I'll probably go with the recommend tuning of 32hz, but I was wondering what the main differences between 2.0 and 2.5 would be?

Been debatin on 3 10" bls or 1 15" BTL off of 4Kw. I'm thinkin about goin with 1 15" BTL so i got some questions. What options do i need exactly for the following scenario? - It's for daily, tuned to 33hz, running off of 4kw of power. No SPL but i will be playing, sometimes, bass tracks for show off purposes. Absolutely no clipping guaranteed. Let me know if this is correct or if i should change\add something- Cooling, HIXMcoil, 3rd mag(do i need?), Daily. Can the BTL take 4KW daily? I know Meade does it but is it still safe in Fi's eyes? And i would like a discussion on the cooling option. It states not to get it if used for SPL. Can someone please define what specifi…

which amps should i use for a 18 blt fuly loaded dual 1ohm's?

IAM LOOKING AT BUYING SOME FI AUDIO SUBS 18'S I WILL BE GETTING BUT IAM HAVING A HARD TIME FIGURING OUT WHAT WOULD BE LOUDER 2 SSD 18 INCHFI SUBS OR 1 BTL FULLY LOADED ANY HELP ON THIS WOULD HELP ME THANKS!!! ill be using kintek batterys in a ported box in a crown victoria what iam looking for is for people to hear me far away as well as shakeing the hell out of my car lol which do u think would be best 2 18ssd or the blt loaded18

I've been into stereos for 19 years and for the past 10 years have been waiting for this settup again. I was hitting in the 150s in 1991. A friend and BASS buddy passed away tragically 3 years ago. Since then I've really stepped it up looking for the same settup we both had back in 1990. He used 4 18" Lanzars and I had 4 18" punch. We both had Orion 2250SX's running our systems. The black beast I'm sure most of you knew that. I really want do duplicate this system for Kelly Boy and have many great memories of him including many in Daytona. Now when me and my friends get together at SBN every year we always get to talk about him together. Don't mean to get anyone do…

First off. I am Unimpressed with FI's Silence. Unfortunately Scott and Nick have pretty much decided they are going to Ignore my Emails concerning taking them (Scott) up on the offer to replace the sub of find a magnet cover to hide the huge chunk missing out of the Ferrite. 2 weeks worth or emails have never been replied to so I have decided to cut my Losses and install the Subwoofer in the Oak Ply box I built. I waited and waited but with the weather turning cooler I wanted to get it in and running. On a Side note, a few Woofer builders have offered to repair the woofer at a reduced cost to help me out. So that was nice of them. I may take one of them up …

Making another request for dimensions for Q 10. Trying to determine if a Q10 will fit within an existing enclosure I designed and built using different subs.

Enclosure to Fi Audio Q10 Ported Spec's - 1.2 cu.ft. @ 33Hz Thanks to the folks at Fi Audio Tech Support for providing the dimensional spec's for the subwoofer, subwoofer has just enough clearance for mounting depth.

Hi, Need experienced help, I just received and installed my Fi SP4 15 D2, powered by a Crescendo B3500D(the volume on the amp is up to 75% on the gain knob on the amp and bass boost in 0 and on the head unit the subwoofer level is in max), and I feel the bass is weak for what I expected... 1- Is this normal? Or what should I do? 2- Is there a specific way to put the ohm load down to 1 ohm on the sub? 3- What specific grill fits this sub? Thank you.

Hi, i just have this dilemma on what to tune my box to for my Fi BL 10 going on the trunk of a Sedan i saw in the sticky topic that 32hz is the optimal tuning, does that also apply for Sedans? cause i just had this thought that tuning it to 32hz might not give much punch anymore and will only get loud on lows, is 34-35hz better for a Sedan? Thanks in Advance! -Carlo

so i wired up my 4 fi bl 1ohm dvc subs up to my kicker zx2500.1. have them all wired up to a 2 ohm load(checked with a ohm meter) and it doesnt sound good at all. i get it past quarter volume and it starts to distort and sound like crap. im positive its something in my wiring but i cant seem to find out what. i have no idea how to post pictures on here. i followed a rockford fosgate wiring diagram http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4204724#post4204724 not sure if im allowed to do that lol but there is a picture of how i wired it on there.

I broke my terminal loose pulling the sub out of its box, I tried crazy gluing it back but that aint working, My question is, whats the bolt for on the terminal, the terminal is not screwed on, it looks as if it was just glued on over top of the screw instead of screwed down. Now, I cant get the terminal flush with the screw head to even glue it down properly, what would you guys suggest? Right now, the terminal is just flopping around, I know that cant be good