Fi Technical

Could somebody help me to design an enclosure for the Fi BL 18 inch. I'm not good with the programs. I would like to let the box tuned to around 32 - 30 hertz. I'm gonna power it with around 1800W RMS. If somebody tell me the volume of the box and the port lenght and also the port area.

I'm just curious as to why the Universal option isn't on the subs by default? It doesn't cost any extra money, yet i do not see any disadvantages of having it done to a sub even if you do not want it. So... is there any disadvantage of having it even if someone doesn't want it?

Hello, I'm thinking about getting 1 18" bl sub pretty soon, so I'm designing the enclosure now to make sure it fits. I have a 2000 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, so the trunk is pretty big. I want to do a sub up, port back enclosure, but I'm open to anything. I'd like to get it around 7ft^3. Here are a couple pics from a crown vic's trunk. I wrote in my trunk dimensions on one of them. They are (as accurate as I could get ) 26"D x 41"W x 20" H (13" clearance under the spare tire, 20" for the whole trunk) Heres a video with the kind of enclosure I would like to build Would this be possible in my trunk? Also, what dimensions should I be looking at for my port? I'm a…

I bought a pair of the 10" BL's with the SPL option a few years ago, maybe 4. I have no use for them anymore as a burp only sub. Is there a way to change them to a musical and burp sub without having to change motors? I know the gap is pretty tight since it's a burp only sub, just not sure if it's as simple as buying a new recone or if it's more expensive.

Hello, Does anyone have any experience with Fatbox enclosures? I am interesting in buying their box for the FI BTL 15", and was wondering if the box is actually to spec and worth buying. Here are the specs and link: http://www.fatboxusa.com/servlet/the-272/1%22-MDF-15%22-FI/Detail SPECS: - 48 SQ. IN. PORT AREA - DIMENSIONS: 18" HEIGHT, 34" WIDTH, 20 3/8" DEPTH - 4.0 CU.FT.NET VOLUME (AFTER SUBWOOFER AND ALL BRACING DISPLACEMENTS) - NET TUNING: 32HZ (AFTER SUBWOOFER AND ALL BRACING DISPLACEMENTS) - MATTE BLACK PORT FINISH - ALL 1" THICK INDUSTRIAL MDF / 2" THICK BAFFLE/SUB MOUNTING! - 100% ROCK SOLID 1" INDUSTRIAL MDF - BEST OF THE BEST! - ALL JOINTS BONDED, NO LIQUID GL…

I have a company to build my box, but I am not feeling very comfortable with what they are capable of. So, I want to show up with ideal measurements in hand and make sure they don't make a mistake. I have a 15 inch BL fully loaded dual 2 and will be running 1000w RMS to it. I need to build the box into the spare tire well and up a bit. I want to know where I should fire the port and roughly how many sqft I need and how to configure the port. Currently, I have a sealed box firing straight up. Its okay, but not great. The sub will be at he very back of the trunk, should I fire the port at an angle towards the rear window with the sub firing up?

Sorry if this is covered elsewhere but I can't seem to find the answer im lookin for I've got two alpine pdx1.1000 rated at 1000w rms. One of these would be underpowering a btl rt? And I couldn't run two to one sub? What would you guys do? I have an audi A4 so only one huge box would fit in my trunk

Does anyone own a 94-97 Honda Accord Sedan? And if so, do you have a 15'' BTL Sub? If by any chance you do, could you tell me how you made the box for your sub? 5 cf is a lot of space, and my trunk is big but I dont know if its possible or not while still keeping the back 2 seats in... Thanks, -Curt

ok i have a box thats Height22.75 X Widht14.5 X 32.75Depth... i have a 15"fi btl wich calls for 12-16sq inches per cuft... i think i have around 3.5cubes in my box. port size would be 3.5x13 = 45.5sqinches now... i want to tune it to 32-34hz... how long should my port be ?? 26.5 inches long??? also all these number look rigth to you guys ??? i know the box its on the samll side but thats the biggest i could fit on my truck... please help me

i've sent a couple of emails but have gotten no reply so i figured i'd just make a thread about it. I'm going to need a recone for a loaded universal btl 12. also i've heard a little bit about tinsel slap problems. If subsonics are kept under control is it really a problem? Any possible performance difference between the d2 vs d1, amplification held aside? If not then d1 is my preference.

scott or nick, or anybody else that knows i have a question. i have two 12's that i bought in germany and being the dummy that i am i dropped the box they were in and one of them completely broke the basket all the way around! the woofer is still good i was able to line it up and push down and the voicecoil isnt damaged all the surround and wires are still attached. the speaker looks like it has almost the same basket as my fi 12's is it possible to take the woofer and replace the basket so i don't have to buy new woofers yet?and if so can you guys do it? or can only certain speakers be re-attached like this?

I was looking into getting a btl 18” I was wondering which option would be better a dual one or dual two ohm subwoofer??? Thanks in advance

I was wondering to expand my knowledge and thought others here would benefit from my ever growing thirst for knowledge... i thought i would ask to help myself avoid these problems and also help educate those that aren't aware of these issues and how to avoid and/or discover the following problems.. Anyways.... as it pertains to sub woofers (particularly Fi built ones since i own some) 1. What is mechanical failure? 2. What are signs of mechanical failure (sight, sound, smell)? 3. What are the most common reasons for a sub to experience mechanical failure ? 4. What is thermal issues/problems in regards to sub woofers 5. What are signs of Thermal problems/issues (sight, so…

I was wondering if someone could help me with box size/measurements. I have a Ford Explorer, I am going to be running a Sundown 3000d with this(Dual 1 BTL 18"). Space I have available, 40in Wide|30in High|75 deep(I don't use this area at all so it can be as big as it has to be).

Hello, there are two Fi Q10d2 and the amplifier DC 5.0K, in 0,5 Ohms, Xs power d1200+d3400 accumulators (44Ah and 65Ah). Advise the optimum volume and the port area under this system? Palaniry to begin with 48 liters pure and port in 250 squares, tune to of 36-38 Hz and reducing to have a look at changes. The car, Ford Focus 2 a hatch-back, the purpose to receive is more than figures on music. Thanks in advance for councils and comments. I am sorry for my English))

I should be getting my new ssd 12 soon and a alpine amp that pushes 1krms at 2 ohms. I was wondering if the sub will handle 1k without any problems. I usually dont have my radio blasting 24/7 (but like to show off for a song or two) and most of the time im listening to rock/metal. It will be in a sealed box and i got no options on it but Hqts. So the real question is can i run the amp all the way up (gains set correctly) or should i run about 3/4 level. Thanks for the help.

So, here is my problem. I am going to be running one sub and I have a slight "Monk" issue...for those of you who know that show. I feel like things have to be balanced out. So, I want to put my sub in the middle of the enclosure and would like to have two ports, one on each side. Is this clausable and how do I go about figuring out how much port area I need. The specs say 12-16 sq inches of port per cu ft of box volume. So I am planning around 40 sq inches of port area total. Would this be 20sq in per port or am I calculating this incorrectly. Any and all help would be happily listened to. Thanks

I have attached a photo. the leads where built in but need to get this puppy rebuilt. I had my installer rebuild all 4 of my 15" and one took the dust. He had told me he ordered off the FI site but can not find the options he told me my subs had. From what he told me Dual .7 coils 3 back stiff coils 2 yellow (one with woven leads. i belive there wher 4 leads per post each. blank dust caps. reg fi cone and foam surround. My subs are the dual stacked. I have attached a photo. Thanks for the help. 154.00 @ 29hz

how much airspace would you guys reccomend for 4 x Q 18's in a sealed wall?

i am ready to purchase the fi bl 12. i have a hifionics brutus amp 1600 watts and i want to run it at 1ohm what option do i need on my speaker to run it at 1 ohm...??? dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm thanks in advance

Hey everybody, i have 2 2400 watt mono amps (linked together it makes a 2 ohm load) each amp is 1700 rms (by titanium power) im hooking up a Fi 15"btl 1ohm dvc. how do i wire my sub to have a 2 ohm load? Because my amp goes in protect mode at really high volume help please!!! i just have it wired like this (dont pay attention to the ohms) this connection works alomost to the highest voulume output on my stereo but then goes to protect mode http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woof...mp;woofer_imp=1 i tried this but it gets the amp in safe mode at mid volume http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/spa...SERIES-DUAL.jpg any help please!!

How loud will his be, haha. No but seriously - I was considering purchasing the 6000D because i can get one for only $100 more than the 4000D. I was going to use the 4000D for these 3 10s but hey, why not go with this one, you know? I am not going to deliver that much power to these subs, that is the point to this topic because i will not have the battery power to support the 6000ds potential. The question pertains to the BL's cooling option- Fi says as long as you do not burp the subs then the cooling option is fine for daily. I am planning on setting the amp up to output a real 4,500w(peak spikes) as if i were to have no voltage loss. Sometimes i show off setups usi…

Hi guys I'm planning on starting a new build in my 05 Hyundai Tucson. I would like to run 2 18in btl n2 in a 4th order bandpass no wall for daily use. I've contacted a person to design the box he said that it would be fine ofcourse he's getting payed but I would like to hear what you guys think.

Im in the process of having a box built for my tahoe for a 18" BTL. my boxes dont always come out the way i want so i decided to have this one made by someone who knows what they are doin.. well me being the kind of person i am.. ill bring the info i have from him to you guys and hope to get some support or get me in the right direction. Guy is fully aware of the BTL's and has made several boxes for them in the past. He says he would like to make it 8.5 cubes tuned to 30-35hz and says he will give it a little bit more port area than Fi recommends... does this sound ok to you guys? anyone have something similar or done anything similar. I know here in the fi forums its say…

Hello all, I purchased a Q12 years ago and unfortunately for the life of me cannot remember if it is the dual 2 ohm or dual 1 ohm. There doesn't seem to be any markings on the sub or coils...how can I tell what I have? I could have sworn it was the dual 2, so I wired it in parallel to put a 1 ohm load on my amp. It sounds great, but the amp is going in protection mode when I turn it up. The amp is 1 ohm stable. So I pulled the sub out, wired it in series...which would put it at a 2 ohm load (if it was in fact a dual 1). No matter how much I turn it up, it stays on just fine. Problem fixed, right? Wrong. The sub sounds like crap now! As if the polarity is wrong or somethin…