Fi Technical

i have the fully loaded btl, in jus 6 3^4 cu ft box tuned to 34.78 and theres no doubt about it being loud, and rumbling things BUT i am not able to do a hair trick. there is very little air being moved around. is this normal? or is the box to close to the hatch, and not getting enough air? my brother has the 9515g and we put his box n sub in my ride and it moved air like crazy, but the btl isnt move any. any ideas why?

-How many spiders are there in the N2? -Can we have super Gauss in the N2 or is it not required/superseded no longer relevant? What are the benefits and is it worth it? -AA SMD is designed by FI right...price and power handling aside which is a better driver for loud daily? Unfortunately I live on the other side of the world and have no way to listen to either of these. Thanks

Just wondering, because after measuring the space available in my small hatchback with the rear seats out, this is whats available to fit a box in. Was planning to make a box of about 8ft^ net after port and driver displacement, but just asking Have anyone tried something similar? This is for daily music playing, low(ish) power - about 2kw in a nowall setup in a very small hatchback. BTL N2 18" fully loaded is ordered and paid for, just sitting here and waiting for it to arrive. Been a month now

I have two Fi Q 15's and would like to know whether to go sealed or ported? I love tight bass and also love the sound of a ported enclosure. I have the space for the ported enclosre (6.2 cu.ft)and i also have the space for the sealed enclouse. I love both sealed and ported enclosures. But which encloser would be the best for good sound quality and will also get loud. Any input is welcome. thanks

Just lookin for some input on an amp that will power a fully loaded 12in fi bl at 1 ohm. My sub will be here this week so i want to order my amp soon. Any input will help. Please state the amp/amps you reccomend and why.

Is there any recommended size fastners to use on the N3? From what i saw the holes were only about 1/8".

wanted to know if its accurate wood: 0.50 height: 16.5 width: 28 depth: 14 PORT height: 15.5 width: 1.7 L Piece: 6 says its tuned to 31.64 and has 2.825 cubic feet. and i dont understand why its saying my port should be deeper than my box is.. lol says total port length is 20.85 so i subtracted 6 which is 14.85 ?? you guys are the pros and its my first personal box build

I've been into stereos for 19 years and for the past 10 years have been waiting for this settup again. I was hitting in the 150s in 1991. A friend and BASS buddy passed away tragically 3 years ago. Since then I've really stepped it up looking for the same settup we both had back in 1990. He used 4 18" Lanzars and I had 4 18" punch. We both had Orion 2250SX's running our systems. The black beast I'm sure most of you knew that. I really want do duplicate this system for Kelly Boy and have many great memories of him including many in Daytona. Now when me and my friends get together at SBN every year we always get to talk about him together. Don't mean to get anyone do…

Ok, so I finally finished stage 1 of my install today. It's gonna take too much time for the custom fab needed for my components to fit in my door so I used a Line Out Converter to get me by. I couldn't change out my HU because of the factory amp and it would cause the speakers not to play and there is no harness for it yet. Anyway, back to the point of the post. So I have my Q in a sealed box with about .8-.9 cubes after displacement. It's a cheap $20 prefab box. I'm just not happy with the current output of the sub. I've seen 10" Q videos, sealed and ported, where there was trunk flex and the rear view mirror noticeably vibrates, and this is only on 1000 watts. I'm runn…

Hey everybody, I have two 12" Fi SSD Dual 1-ohm subs(copper coil option only) in a ported enclosure being pushed by a Hifonics Bxi-2608D. Last week, one of the subs completely stopped working. No noise at all. I took both of the subwoofers out and tried swapping them to the other sides. Still, the same subwoofer doesn't work when wired to the other subs wiring. So that tells me that it's a problem with the sub itself, not the amp. When I push in on the sub, there is no grinding or anything of the sort. It's identical to the working subwoofer. Everything looks fine physically. So I tried hooking it up to a multimeter. One of the voice coils reads 1.1ohms, the other gives…

I ordered a dual 2 recone for my IB3 and had to ask for a second set of terminal connectors since it was SVC before. I received the recone, but no terminal connectors... I assume I have to wait to finish the recone till I get a second set?

will a lanzar 4000 watt 2 channel amp (2 x 1650 rms at 2 ohms) blow these 2 Fi BL 15" subvwoofers with the cooling and flatwind options and the daily option at 2 ohms Basically can these subs handle that much power??????

ok i sent my sub woofer to get fixed with this information.... Fi Car Audio Attn: Repair Service 5450 Cameron St #104 Las Vegas NV 89118 Ive sent about 3 messages to fi and still nothing i got a email by the ups saying my shipment made it to its destination to get fixed but still no email from fi or somebody to let me know from the company that they have it or any info on getting my 15'' BTL fixed. With me not getting a email from fi im not sure who has my sub or after it made it what has happened to it. Ive been patient and all i wanna do is pay for them to fix my sub. Has anyone here gone through the same thing if so how long did you have to wait for feedback after you…

I bought my SP415 dual 2 ohm back in October and received it in November and after only 5 months of use, the foam surround is ripped. I can't seem to figure out how this could have happened so any input would be great. Also curious if this is covered by FI's warranty. But here's the setup: -1999 Grand Prix GT Sedan -FI SP415 dual 2 ohm wired to 1 ohm. No spaced spider and no cooling (daily use, didn't see the need) -AQ2200d tuned to 2100 watts RMS using a multimeter -DIYMA oversized 0awg CCA power (appx. 22') and ground (3') with a 200 amp circuit breaker near the battery -Optima Yellow Top -Ohio Generators HO Alt (its an older model but I had them test it and it puts o…

So I'm wondering if I can hear some names dropped of the bigboy amps 2000 watts and up. be nice to have a place it's all on one page. Thanks in advance Joe Rod

Hey all, Today I just got my 12" BTL and my Crunch GP3000D along with my custom box and I installed everything today and to be honest I am not impressed with this subwoofer at all. Like when the subwoofer hits, it sounds like it is bottoming out and I dont understand why. I use to have 2 12w6v2s to a JL 1000/1 and it was hitting WAY harder than my 12" BTL. I just met my friend who I sold my w6s to and he was running them to a Kenwood amp pushing 600rms to them and they were slamming compared to my BTL. I just am not impressed with the performance of the BTL at all. It cannot pick up anything high at all. I know it is a SPL sub, but I have read tons and tons of peoples rev…

I have a 12" bl with a kicker zx1000.1 and an optima red top for a battery and even with the gain only half way up I am getting headlight dimming and my amp is clipping. I have a friend with the same amp and the 15" bl and his doesn't clip and he has a weaker battery so I have no idea why mine keeps clipping.

So I know these Fi speakers can take a beating, but I had my 18" SSD playing for maybe an hour at pretty high volume with some really heavy bass and I noticed a burning smell coming from it. The dustcap was pretty warm. I know its the voice coils, but I play at the same volume all the time and have never had this problem. Is it just because of the extended usage ? I know its not good when it happens. I'm running it off an Onkyo HT-S3100 5.1 receiver. I don't think its clipping, as the receiver would shut off. The sub is fine when not played for extended periods though. Should I be worried ?

My friend and I are starting to build a system for his 2004 Tahoe. We are running 4 sp4 18s. We was wondering what kind of air space and tuning we should run. The amp we are using is an American Bass VFL1100.1. Your help is appreciated.

I have a 99 accord. I have a stock battery with a stock 90amp alt. I have big three upgrade. I have a fully loaded 12 QD2 and an 1800.1 audiopipe amp. I was wondering if my 4 gauge knukonceptz kolossus fleks amp kit would suffice for this amount of power. I am going to be running it at 1 ohm. I would appreciate the help.

Would it be smart to run the BLs down to 0.5ohms for daily use if I upgraded all my electrical? The amp is an Atomic 3000.1d

Are they measured when the subs are new and stiff, or after they're broken in?

Does this look good?

i just ordered two fi btl 18s fully loaded like two days ago and have been researching all about them great subs is what ive been hearing, but im going to build my own ported box for them and have tryed using the t/s parameters listed on fi's website and i plug them in my bass box pro 6 and my winiSD and the programs basically end up saying that fi's t/s parameters are incorrect, because after ive typed in all listed parameters it says recommend internal size 5.25 cu. ft for two of the 18's i dont know whats wrong... and what do you guys think would be best box design and port design for 2 btl 18 fully loaded dual 2 ohms, 4 hifonics brz 1700.1D amps (amp per voice coil) (…

I have a bl 18 with a jl 1000/1 running it..the other day i was driving and it jus shut off, I checked to see if i could see what was causing it and the amp was still on but the sub wasn't working..a little bit later it came on and would shut off after it hit a couple times. Then it came on one day and worked flawlessly for 3 or 4 days and now its shutting off again. I think it might have something to do with the temperature because the days it worked it was 50-60 out instead of in the 40's on the days it shut off. I checked the ground and all the connections and they're fine. what do you guys think it could be? please help me out thanks