Fi Technical

I have a 12" bl and and I recently built a new box for it. I noticed some what of a clicking sound coming from the sub. At first I just thought it was something rattling in the back of my car but today I went to check it out and noticed it was coming from the sub. It only seems to do it on the low notes and it doesn't do it every time either. I can't seem to figure out what or why it is making that sound.

Hey, just wondering if anybody has had good results with an 18" SSD in a sealed box?

I'm only going to be running around 700 - 1100 watts rms to the sub when playing music. Probally no more than 10 min sessions. And the sub will probally move no more than 3/8 of an inch in excursion each way. Will I have any problems with this small amonunt of excursion?

ideally, what would be a good power range for the ib3 12 inch sub?

Hey guys, Mr. Noob with here with another question again.......I am putting in binding posts to replace the terminal cups in my sub box cuz all my wiring is 8 gauge and the cups do not accomadate 8g wire. Plus I always go "OVERKILL" for peace of mind. When talking to Mike of Zenclosures(guy that made my box and he's GREAT guy like Scott is by the way), he said I could just use silicone to seal the new posts. I've seen people here talk about caulking so which is better? Or is silicone adequate? Enquiring minds want to know????????????????

I was wondering if you could send me the exact dimensions, that would be the best for the 12" BTL that I just bought from you tuned to 32HZ? The biggest size box that fits in the trunk of my Chrysler 300 is 32"wide by 35"long by 15"tall, that is the biggest size box that we can fit in there. If you could help me out that would be great. This is the exact sub that I bought: BTL12 Ohm: dual 1 P_Chamfer: no Cooling: yes +$40 3rdMagnet: yes +$30 HiXmCoil: yes +$20 Daily_or_SPL: Daily Inner_H_Sink: not available Universal: yes

Before you tell me to look at the sticky, let me explain. I looked at the sticky and it said that the a cut list and more in depth enclosure recommendations would be available soon, and that was a long while ago. If anyone has experimented A LOT with the 18 SSD please explain it to me. How much port area, size, tuning, wattage, sub and port placement, and pictures if possible. I really would appreciate anything you can give me.

Need help with box specs and design for an 18btl. It will be going into a 2002 jeep grand cherokee. The space that I have available is 40x23x16 (w,d,h). I want the box to be tuned to @30hz. Sub will be powered by a planet audio bb2400.1 I would like the sub to be facing up with port firing back. Any input that you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all, I was curious, has the topic ever come up on here about running one of the Fi dual voice coil subs with only one voice coil connected? I was reading through a forum post on the12volt.com about how it should not damage a subwoofer if the loss of heat dissipation is accounted for by running at a lower power level. Obviously it is better to run both coils whenever possible, but it might be useful to run single coil if someone were stuck in a non-ideal amp setup. the12volt thread What % of RMS power would be acceptable to send to a dvc sub in single coil configuration? Thanks

so this sunday, at a local comp i heard rumor that a guy was using a BTL N3 for a daly setup. I ended up seeing his name on the record board and couldnt believe it was true. The guys setup was a 18" N3 box 5 cubes tuned to 35hz, and he metered a 150.7 outlaw in a SUV. i was most impressed. I had the thought that the n3 could NOT play music daily, untill i heard his tonight. It sounded very good. i messaged nick immediately and he got back to me within a couple hours "as usual" and notified me that they can play music, BUT that him and scott believe the motor force is too great and will actually decrease SPL. so in other words you guys, the n3 can be played daily, however …

I am kinda worried about something damaging my Q. It is going to be firing upward, toward the roof of my tacoma in the extra cab. But i don't want it to be in the way of the sub (excursion)

So I have been driving a single cab truck for close to 10 years now. I've always liked car audio and I went from a shitty 10", to a really nice Ascendant Audio Assassin set up, which was pushing the limits of what I could fit in a Ford Ranger. Got an F-150, but I didn't drive much at that point, so I kept my Assassin 8"s and hifonics amp. But I'm getting a Ford Focus hatchback now, and I have been wanting a Fi Q for years, so I want to do it right. I was originally thinking two 12"s, but that seems like it would be a nightmare to power (3000 watts RMS can't be cheap o.o). So I figured a single 15" would be a nice middle ground. I have no idea if I would want to go porte…

Configure Speaker: Ohm: dual 1/dual 2 P Chamfer: no/yes +$10 Cooling: no/yes +$40 HiXmCoil: no/yes +$20 Daily or SPL: Daily/SPL Induct Heat Ring: no/yes +$25 Universal: no/yes i just wanted to know mainly what i should get and what it does for the speaker. i was purchasing two of these if you need to know.

So i just ordered my 15" BL sub, and im getting it soon and cant wait, but im kind of stuck on what amp to run it off. I was looking at the Kicker ZX 1500 amp, using all Monster cables to power it. however, before i spend my money on this amp, i want to be sure that it will be the right amp? is there any other amp that could be better for me to get around the same price as the kicker amp? i rlly want my sub to pound, but sound good at the same time. thanks alot to anyone who helps me out

Would a 15" Q dual2 work decently in a 2.3 cubic foot @ 30hz enclosure? Would having a driver in a smaller ported box offer the same benifit as having it in a smaller sealed box as in increasing its power handling? As I have a USAmps MD.1D which is rated at 1200@1ohm but I believe it is slightly underrated.

I was considering a trade for 2 BTL 15s ( Single slug, spaceship motor), but the subs only have the cooling option. I am going from 4 SA-12s, and I like my lows. I'm powering them with 2 Audiopipe AP3ks. I was gonna run them in 3.5 per (7net), and tune between 30-33hz. I listen to alot of rap, low bass music, and I really want to be able to play in the high 20s/low 30s with authority. With just cooling, will these 15s be able to produce like I want them to? I'm only getting rid of the SAs to do a forward firing/sealed off setup, and I can't get 4 12s to fit in a blowthrough. I also wanted to see what FI was all about Thanks for any help

i have been working on my box design this would work real good with my trunk space. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/bo...ideboxcalc.html is the box good to build or is there way too much port, fi recommends 12-16 per cubic foot of enclosure area? crap it only posts the default box... my box is the following: box width 35, box height 17, box top depth 19, box bottom depth 19, box thickness .75, square port width 4, square port length 2-16

I picked this sub for cheap and all I have to power it is a sundown that pushes 600rms at 2ohm just was wondering if it would be okay to give the sub such low rms compare to what it could handle. or should I just get another amp that does 1000 at 2ohm. Also I have kinectic batteries with a 120amp alt wondering if that be fine or would I have to upgrade it anything. 12.8v and 14.5 at startup i think.

Ok this is a repost from yesterday, but I never received any responses. So i am reposting in the technical section. I currently have a Memphis 1000D left over from a previous setup (4 - memphis PR 12"s) in a blazer. I have since sold that vehicle, but still have the amp and speakers laying around. After learning about Fi Audio and reading more and more about them over the past week. I am interested in purchasing one 12" Q to go under the rear seat of my 05 Ext Cab GMC Sierra. I want to use the existing amp to power the sub. If my memory serves me correct, it is capable of 1100x1 RMS Power @ 1 Ohm Mono (14.4V). I'm wondering if I should add the BP option to the sub to allo…

The recommended box volume for a sealed enclosure is 4-8 cubic feet. Is there much of a difference in sound quality from 4-8? What exactly would be the benefits and disadvantages of having the volume be 4 cubic feet to 8? What about 5 6 7? So far what I could gather is there would be less low-end with the smaller box volume but the bass would be more detailed. Is this necessarily true? I have trued modeling the a box with WinISD but it didn't seem very useful to me. Also, would adding polyester fiberfill be useful in a larger volume box? Thanks!

I need to get my box done before my subs get here. So I need to know how deep to cut so the subs will be flush mounted. Does anyone have that info or have a bl to check for me. Thanks

The Fi.BL is being shipped now and i want to know how big 10 cubic ft. is.because the specs says 5-10 cubic ft. so i was going to get the enclosure built to 10 cubic ft. Is 10 cubic ft. good for that sub for max bass and Hitting Good Low low notes or should i stick to the 7-8 cubic ft. range?? P.S.:Space is not a option so you dont have to ask that?These are the options:dual 2ohm,cooling,flatwind coil,daily. How much inches wide & tall should the port be for this monster???? Thanks Guys:)

hey so I bought Bl 18in dual 1ohm. Im using the Re calculator for a L port, but im seeing there are many variable s that i have to account for so if you guys can help me understand what to do. Its going to be tuned at 32 hertz So how much port area should i have? My demnsions are 37W by 20H by 15 D. How much box voulme should i have? And where should i mount the subwoofer can i have it on the same side as where the vent will be? how far from the vent should it be? This is the first time i have ever done somthing like this so i dont know all the terms and what they mean so if you could plz explain it. thx!

well im trying to plan my setup... already got it down to a fully loaded for daily driving BL 12inch subwoofer to go with my RF amp that pushes 1602watts rms.... the box will be around 2-2.5cubes after displacement... have to run all the numbers after i gut my current setup.... and well i plan on running my same box setup in my civic to have it front firing into the cabin... and well i have a slot port in my box but im wanted to rebuild my trunk setup and this time instead of having a slot port id like to use some aero port or ports..... want to use some 4inch aero ports for the setup.. BUT im always HORIBLE with calculating ports.... ive always had people run the number…

i have the base model q18 and a 1kw amp that has been tested to put out 1200wrms. i have my q in a large box behind my seat in my truck and i can smell the coil a little if i blast it for a couple mins. the amp was set correctly with a dmm so i know its not clipping. so i was wondering if there was anything i could do to improve the cooling so it doesnt get so hot. could i add the bp optioned vent plug to the pole or would i need to sent it in to get work done to it. i dont want to void any warranty so if you could help fi guys that would be cool.