Fi Technical

I want another t-line in my truck. I had a dd 9515g, it didn't hold up. I will have 3kw on hand. What options on the 08 model BTL would get where i want to be with suspension, cooling, and power handling, as well as x max........If a combination of stiff spiders was needed then that would be ok as well. I just don't really know how well they will handle this type of application. It a 2006 nissan frontier(the big ones) xtra cab so i have a decent amount of room as my backseats are removed. advice will be appreciated. Jason

Ok, since i've got the new amplifier, I was looking into the bl's a little and keep seeing all these posts about them missing out on the low end, (ie sub 35 hz). Is this true? My enclosure is tuned to 27hz at 8.18 cu ft and the Q's perform awesome in it. I want to go with the BL's because they will handle a little more power than the Q's because I'll be running a IA 40.1. How do you guys think they will perform in that enclosure tuned to those specs? If they won't handle the bottom end like the Q's, I am also looking at the AA Havocs, and I've read that they handle the low bass frequencies pretty well like he q's. Feel free to chime in with any responces. thanks

I am on the verge building an 8 cube sealed box for a Fi Q18 which I will be buying in the next 2 weeks. I was set on everything until I came across one question. Do I need to have a 1 inch baffle? I plan on double baffle flush mounting. I was going to build is all from 3/4" MDF with a lot of internal bracing. No polyfill since I am maxing out the dimensions. My dimensions are: W:40" D:21" H:21" (will fit nicely in the spot of the room i picked ) Besides the baffle question, does anyone see any problems with my plans?

How much does the slug only, on the new BTL weigh? Also, how is the top plate and t-yoke manufactured? Is it milled, molded, cast?

Could someone guide me on what size enclosure would be correct for the four of these big bad subs.They are 18 inch btl fully loaded. The customer would like a wall. The ruff dimensions are 35 inches tall, 45 inches wide, and @26 inches deep. Any help with the vent width,hieght,and length would be great.

hi, i just receive my BL and noted that there is a plug on the pole vent. Shall i take it off? here is the pix : http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll314/_...nt=DSC00241.jpg thanks.

i have four btl 18s. is it safe to try to drill the terminals to make them just a little bit wider? i cant fit a full piece of 8 gauge into one terminal, i have to trim it just a little bit. and trying to fit two 8 gauge wires into one terminal i might as well just use 12 or 14 gauge because i have to trim the 8 gauge down so much its ridiculous. how bout taking either a unibit/varibit/stepbit (call it what u want), or a slightly bigger drill bit and try to make them bigger? extremely bad idea and i'm gonna end up needing to replace something because i'll break something? or be very careful and go slow and it will work? 2000 rms u would think u could fit a big ass wire …

i have the base model q18 and a 1kw amp that has been tested to put out 1200wrms. i have my q in a large box behind my seat in my truck and i can smell the coil a little if i blast it for a couple mins. the amp was set correctly with a dmm so i know its not clipping. so i was wondering if there was anything i could do to improve the cooling so it doesnt get so hot. could i add the bp optioned vent plug to the pole or would i need to sent it in to get work done to it. i dont want to void any warranty so if you could help fi guys that would be cool.

Well I looked around to see if I could find the new specs of the 08' BTL. I couldn't find it, so if anybody could help me then that would be great. Thanks

So I just bought my new car, a toyota celica, and I am going to have a custom box built for my q 18. with a kicker zx750, how many cubic feet should I go for? I am looking for a flat frequency responce and a good balance of sq and spl. I know these are all really rough terms but I just could use some advice.

Well i'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but i'm wondering what options would be enough to get a 15" BTL at around 2600rms with ease? Thanks

i am about to buy the aq2200d amp, and i am still wondering what subs i should get... 2 18in. bl's or 2 18in. q's. i know the q is for sq mainly and the bl is more for spl. i want what ever one will perform better on that amp. thanks

hi there i need some help with a box design. i plan on sealling off the trunk in my civic. i have a fully loaded btl. the box in it pounds now on highs. its a dual ported box not sure if its effecting more or less out put of the sub or not just wondering if a single ported box will be different its tuned at 35hz. i have a little over 5 cubes. i am looking for a single ported design with both the sub and the port firing forward. i plan on also doing competitions with this setup. i just got a new alternator coming and 1/0 guage wire. i am going to get a kinetics 16 volt battery or two depending on if i need it. but what box design would you recommend for spl and bass race.l…

the topic asks it all.

3 weeks and no replys to email. i would realy like to get the kit. thx

Currently I am running my 2 15" Fully loaded Fi Bl's (flatwound coil, cooling, p chamfer) off 2 1500ds. I am about to buy some 18"s. They have cooling and flatwound but no p chamfer. How different are the 2 gonna be in handling since the 18" ones dont have the p chamfer but my 15"s do.

would one of this be good or two for a pair of 18Q's...?any other suggestions on an amp is welcomed. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=1818

building a normal box but using two layers of 3/4 mdf all around, which way would be the strongest? i know the first would be the easiest with less cutting, but would number 2 be so much stronger that i should definetly go with that method? Number 1 Number 2 any opinions are appreciated!

I have a Fi Q 15 with BP power in about a 5 cuft box. 3.5 for the sub and the rest is displacements for sub and port. I have the box tuned to 31hz. I read the recommendations for the sub off of this forum and it says about 12-16 square inches of port area per cubic foot of volume. So that would translate from 42in-56in squared of port cross section and i have about 48 inches squared (its 13.75in W x 3.5in H x 36in L) and not very much air is moving through the port and it is not very loud. Maybe it needs more break in time? Thanks

i have a 15" btl fully loaded. i want to compete in bassrace and maybe just for spl burps wise. i have about 5 cubes to work with. i kind of want the box to move alot of air for shirt tricks and hair tricks. is it possible to get high numbers with the two i want to compete in and still move alot of air like others do with this sub. just curious

outter box dimensions are gonna be 58" deep x 46" wide x 24" high using two layers of 3/4 mdf all around (1.5" sides) gives me 28.7 cu ft before displacement assuming displacement is .26 per woofer lets call it 1 cu ft my plan is to use six 6" aero's to start with i am aiming to get at least 25 cubes net after port and sub displacement (assuming 1.5 cubes displacement for 6 6" aeros 15" long) i NEED this box to be LOUDEST at 44hz, so i'm guessing tune to around 40hz (not sure) its gonna be only for bass race and shows, i wont be driving this setup around town everyday, but i still will be playing music, mostly rap and not much in the 30-40hz range. dimensions are pretty…

Just wondering what options I have to get this motor reconed. Are there any options I can choose to build a custom or hybrid sub or do you only have a standard setup for recones. thanks

i need some help designing a box i have a 1999 explorer xlt 4 door i am running a 18"btl fully loaded daily on a fusion nv2500 my current box is 19h 24w 33d outside dim. with 2 6" pvc ports 15" long. ports and sub firing at hatch. i want to fire sub up and port back and change to a 30x30x16tall any help on port LxWxH would be grate!also any other input just looking to change up i was told sub up port back would be louder.

When I took out my subs I found a brownish materials on the sub terminals. Upon inspecting, I suspect the glue from the cone to the surround is melting. Is there any reason to it? Also would any glue which is strong enough would fix this. I plan to use the 10 minuted epoxy as its avaiable in anywhere in my please compared to the CA glue or the original glue that was used. Would the epoxy do its job without affecting any performance? thanks

http://youtube.com/watch?v=fU3nZ-l4vxg just curious my old setup was a 3.5 cubed box with 36" of port. the port was on the right of the box 2"x18" it was narrow. anyways my sub was in the middle both facing forward. it was loud it got really low and moved alot of air. the link above is my new setup. the lows dont really move alot of air like the old. is it because of having to ports. or is the box design not right. the only difference of the new and the old is the new hits highs very good it hurts your ears very badly. why do some people put there subs on one end of the box with the port at the other does that make it louder. i need help with a better box i think. i want …