Fi Technical

Just yesterday listening to my system, and my sub went out. I checked all the wiring and nothing looks loose. And I don't think I blew it because there was no smoke when it went out. Is there an easy way to tell if it's blown or not? Or if anyone might know what is wrong here, please let me know. The sub is a 12" fully loaded BTL that I bought this summer. Any answers or suggestions are greatly appreciated. And if there's anything else that you need to know, feel free to ask. Thank you.

all my life i have been a sealed guy, i just love the sound of a sealed setup and how low and deep they can play, so i got talked into going ported for my next system..im going with 3 18'' fi Q series, fi suggest 6-10 cu ft per sub, im thinking of going in the middle with 8 per sub, im also going to throw 800 watts at each one, what do you guys think about this? i will be using this for daily driver and i listen to both rap and rock music..so im hoping the subs can keep up with the fast beats..also 28hz sound good to you guys?

I finally picked up the pre cut pieces of the box I designed using the RE enclosure calculator, but I would like to verify which port length will be ideal for tuning the 2.0 Cubic ft. box between 30-33 HZ? I know the RE calculator is not really accurate so, here's my box measurements: Width = 23" Depth = 15" Height = 15" Volume = 2.0 Cubic ft. Port width = 1.5" Here's the pic of the box. The length of the port inside the L shape port is what I would like to verify. Now, should I go with 12" or 5" port length? The default RE calculator gave me a tuning freq of 33 HZ using 5" port lenth but it is not accurate. I'll be building the box sometime this weekend so before I put…

Good to go? More stats: http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...mp;Fs=&CE=0 Anything else to change? I'm gonna buy the MDF this weekend.

Hey everyone, I have a pair of d1 12" Q's. One of the wires coming from the cone going to the terminal on the sub snapped... and there seems to be some sort of burn on the wire (its blackened at both ends). Any explaination on why this would happen and any way to fix this. I know i can solder the wire back together but it just looks like it was too short to begin with, when i connect the two pieces of the wire together and press down on the sub it looks as if the wire was never long enough and just kept pulling on it until it finally snapped... Also if i can solder it back together should i add a longer piece of wire in? and where do i get this wire??? I dont know if this…

Well just in the past few days I have noticed that my sub was not working. Me being the lazy person that I am put it off for a while assuming that just a connection was loose. Yesterday I finally got around to taking a look and all the connections outside of the box looked fine. The amp (sae-1000D) looked to be working fine, but no movement or sound from the sub. With the music playing I pushed the cone a little and then it made a little effort but once I moved my hand away it did nothing. This was initially, but today the sub does nothing at all, even when I push on it. Still not sure if the amp could be damaged, I connected another sub that I had laying around and…

ok so i have a 15" ssd with copper coil and a us amps md 23 i ordered a audioenhancers ported box for it that was close to the required specs, but i got sent the wrong box. the one i recieved lookes to be 2.3ft at anywhere from 34- 38hz area will this work or is it going to be to small???

so i was on my way to work and i was subbing as usual..when i got the scent of like something burning..i really dont have the slighest idea of what it is but i can only compare it to like plastic burning..i noticed it only smelled when the bass is hitting low notes..so i get to work..8 hrs later..im leaving work and start subbing again, it plays about 10 seconds of the song and the sub goes out! and this was about 1 hour ago..so im pissed! i have no idea whats going on..everything is working fine except the sub..all lights indicate everything is good..do i need to recone it?? im not very knowledgeable with these audio systems! please help! this is my set up 1 18" fi btl 1…

Nick can you please confirm enclosure recommendations for the new N2's and N3's. There is no notes in the pinned topics above concerning the new drivers.

hi i wanted to know if there is a downside to using an N2 recone on a ufo btl, because i have a friend with 2 recones and have no use for them and i needed recone. would they work?

I'm about to recone my N2s, as well as changing the size of the basket. Shipping is over $160 to Fi and back and that's a real bank breaker for a poor guy like myself. How easy is it to change the basket on the N2s, and is it easy enough to recone a sub by an average joe?

Is this possible I can't really find the tech specs of the two anymore so im not sure if there are any size differences between the two

Ok I've been trying to get my subs reconed for about three weeks now, I already know that they wont be covered under warranty because I overpowered them, but i have the money to get them fixed so if someone that works for fi could send me some info to get me on the right track, i would greatly appreciate it. Subs are:( 2) FI Q 15's D1 w/ BP power. THanks

Hey i blew my speaker and i been sending FI emails and myspacing them, but i haven't heard anything from them. Anyone know how to go about sending my speaker to them, or how to get in touch with them, like a phone number, or something.

I need some one to send me a template for a 15" Btl So i can see if i can fit them before i buy them. Also so i can get the holes cut for once they come.

i need a box design for 2 18" btls. i have enough trunk space but where the port and subs would fire kinda confuse me. the dimesions of my trunk are 27x42x25. would that be enough to run 2 btls with port area? can you even run the btls sealed. i never see anyone talk about sealing them. please help cause i am tryna purchase these subs and keep it movin. hallelujah holla back.

i am looking to try out a new design in my ranger. this will be for a 15" btl fully loaded. my max outer dimensions are 50 long x 16 deep x 18t all. heres the kicker, i would like the sub in the middle of the box facing the roof and would like to have the ports doing the same on each side of the sub. i am looking to get it tuned to 30-35 hz. the only reason i want the sub in the middle is because my truck is bagged and i want the weight in the center for even psi on both sides. i live near milwaukee wi if anyone is wondering

i have an 04 honda accord sedan which im going to put a Fi Audio 15" Q Sealed Box sorry i dont have trunk dimensions... what do you guys think will i have any problems? Design me a box! anyone pleaz

I dont know if I should go sealed or ported? I listend to all types of music but mostly dance that has some hard hitting and low bass. I wouldnt like to sacrafice my whole trunk if possible and this will be pushed by a sundown 1000d

need help guys ..i cant decide what to get ...here is a little info,i have a trans am and the box i going to get that fits the rear well it has 1.92 cubic feet per side ...i was going to go with 2 15" or 2 12" ....the amp i am going to use is a sundown 1500d the 2-12" i was looking at are FI SSD or FI Q and the 2-15"are fi ssd or fi q...its a sealed box ....for that amount of air space (1.92cu ft per side) what would give me the best bass sound...thanks

Hello all, I have a 1999 GMC Yukon that I use on weekends to travel to sporting clays shoots. This truck will never be used in a Audio competition just two semi deaf old guys(36 an 38) like to play it loud. The current system is: Subwoofers and speakers 1 JL 18w3 2 Jl 10w0s 4 Infinity 6.5s Amps Kenwood 9104D (powering the 18) Alpine MRP-M500 (powering the 10s) Alpine MRP-F300 (powering the 6.5s) Other Two batteries high output alternator "big 3" This "system" does okay but we are getting a little bored with it. I have a second Kenwood 9104d (900 watt rms at 2ohm limited to 900watt at 1ohm from what little research I have done these amps really do around 700 wa…

i have 2 woofers that i had bought from Brian Owens off of CA.com that wer crossfire motors with a fi basket & BTL softparts. i had an issue with one of them before and emailed FI and got a fast reply and they fixed it and got it back to me within a week. well i have since torn the spiders on these woofers and contacted to get them reconed several months ago but got no reply. i just let it go and they have been sitting for awhile. well i sold 2 of the motors and ordered BTL recones to do it myself as i have done for other production BTL's before. well im not sure if i ordered the kits for the wrong series of BTL's or what but i did one and messed it up somehow the coi…

Ok, so my fully loaded 18" BTL should be here on wed., I want to get started on the box in the next couple of days. But I have no hands on experience with this sub, and I don't like relying on a computer program. So, I need to know what size box/tuning I should be looking at for it, all info listed below. 18" Fully loaded BTL, powered by an MA Audio HK4000D @ 1 ohm, so roughly 3500ish rms. I don't listen to THAT much rap, but still want it to hit the lows.I listen to stuff with a lot of double kicks, which I don't want to sound really sloppy/mushed together. So, cliff notes. BTL 18, 3500rms, and lots of double kick drums Also, PLEASE do not reply if you do not know what …

I have a toyota ex cab truck and I was wanting to know what is the biggest sub set up I can fit in the back? The space in the back is 19'' deep X 22'' tall X and 53'' wide. I want to do a ported box with either 2 Q18's or 2 Q15's. Given this amount of space what do you think I could fit back there? -Alex

ok i plan on running 2 SSD 12's off a AQ1200D @ 1 ohm. the box it gonna be roughly 4.4 cubes depending on how much the aeros take up for space. what would you guys suggest for aero size? i know i would need less port area for aeros then say a slot port but im not sure how much less i can use. i was thinking 1 6" aero which would give me 28 sq inches of port area (6.27 per cube) or i was thinking of going with 3 4" aeros which would give me 37 sq inches of port area (8.69 per cube) now i know thats less then the recommended port area for slot ports but i was wondering if either of those would be acceptable for aero ports.