Fi Technical

Hey guys, I m back.. I was here like a month or two ago.. I was collecting the informations I need for my new set up.. Then finally, I got the set up done.. I have a 15" Fi Q D2, Ported box tuned at 26hz, JBL GTO 1201.1 II amplifier.. PICS: BUT I have a problem here.. I grabbed a deal for the box and sub combo when I needed a Q that is D1 not D2.. But the sub I got is D2.. So I am stuck with 4 ohm load on the sub since JBL amp is 2 ohm or 4 ohm stable only.. It cannot go lower than 2 ohm.. At 4 ohm(which it is running on right now) load, it is only 787 watts RMS.. If it is at 2 ohm load, it would be 1200 watts rms.. It already sounds sweet at 787 watts rms.. i can…

Hi First, Im glad to be part of this community. Ive been reading a couple of threads and I can tell there is a lot of people who know what they are talking about (from what I know). I recently joined a couple of forums but none of them were really helpful. I hope you guys can help me out!. So Im saving up for a FULL (all options and cooling) 18" BTL. From what I been reading, it looks like I will definitely need at least 2000watts RMS amplifier and an extra battery. Just to know, will the BTL run without an extra battery? In other words, with just the stock? Thats the sub. Now, for the amplifier, I was thinking about the Hifonics BXi 2010D. However, I just found out a lot…

Can someone tell me if this port size is right for what I want. Box size is 12.91 cubes after subs and port displacement. the port size is 23hx7wx14.56d = 32Hz. Is this right? 2-18'' Q's will be used in this box. Looking for it to hit really hard and will this box hit loud and hard? the subs will see about 6.45 cubes each. Is this box good for the Q's to hit really hard in?ready to build today....

Hello guys, New to the Fi World and need some help making the right subwoofer choice between 10" or 12" before ordering. This will be a trunk install in a Honda S2000 CR so space is a bit limited and box will need to be sealed. System Build (so far): Enclosure "Sealed" Max 1.0 cubic ft before displacement. Max mounting depth ~7.75" Power (2) Digital Designs SS1's strapped = 1200 watts clean (from a previous install) HeadUnit Kenwood KIV-BT900 4.0V pre-amp outputs Wire KnuKonceptz 1/0 awg Battery/Alt Stock for now Distribution Block SoundStream PowerPlant Front stage TBD...DLS, Focal, etc. Although I was interested in the BTL-N1, the mounting depth probably will not allo…

Did you guys start using different tinsels now on the btl?

Since I've bought the sub,I noticed they sell a fully loaded BTL.My sub only has 2 magnets.Is my sub the 2000w rms model,and what year sub do I have.my ride

Well, we just slopped together a set up for this years nopi nationals in atlanta. It was 3 kicker CVR 12's in a partitioned sealed box feeding each sub 2.4 square feet, and also 3 kicker CVR 10's in a partitioned box feeding each about 1.6 square feet. They were stacked and put in the back of a 98' Durango no extra battery, not even another cap. Powered it by 2 Crunch Powerzone 1000W 2 channels. We ran the stock USAC 1801-3001 class, and did well. Hit 141.2SPL at 56Hz beating several guys running memphis 15's. Regardless, we are gearing up for next year to be much bigger and louder. This year's set up was built in 2 days with subs from various cars just thrown together i…

Hello everyone I'm new to this and need help.Ok I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre I'm gonna purchase 2 fi bl 15's and use a sundown saz-3500d amp.The question i have is should I get a dual 1 or dual 2? Also what kind of box and components should i get?Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

Hey, This will be my first time buying FI subs and just had a question about what I should buy. I was gonna get two 12" FI BTL's and power them with a Sundown SAZ-3500D amp when it becomes available. Under the amp specs it says: ----RMS power, 2 ohm linkable/dual mono 6000W x 1CH ----RMS power, 1 ohm mono 3500W x 1CH I'm confused as to what the difference is would I be able to get 6000W to the two subs if i got the 2ohm versions? or should I get 1ohm? If I can only get 1ohm will 3500 be enough for two of those subs or would that be very underpowered? Any recommendations on the box size and port size would be greatly appreciated as I will have it made by someone. I'm …

Please tell me this is a warranty issue...? It happened last night noticed one sub quit, kind of looks like the wire was to short, there are no rips in the speaker just a broke wire? this is a Q 10.

Needing a basket, as the title shows. I was wondering if you two could hook me up with something for an experiment that a friend and I are looking to undertake. I need a basket that will bolt to any of the listed motors, we have a few right now, there's a Treo SSX 534 ounce, 12" motor with a 3" coil, and a Treo 582 ounce 18" motor with a 4" coil, then we have 2 RF power series motors that are old school- like the HX2's that have 4'' coils, and we have an Orion HCCA motor with a 3'' coil. Was hoping maybe I could get an 18" or a 22" basket to play with? Let me know if you guys can help me! Got any parts for the 22" lineup machined yet? I would be happy to test some of the…

Whaaat happened? you guys just ruined my next setup :(:( will there be any 15 bls coming?

scott ive been trying to email you about cutout sheet for box you designed me and i havent heard a from you so i guess ill try on here and this is the email you sent me with the box specs so it should be easy for you to help me out and its for the box with the sub up and port back thanks From: "Sales Fi Car Audio" <[email protected]> To: "jamal martells" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: box question Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2007 13:49:56 -0700 Im assuming it is for a 15" sub given that it is 3.5 cuft. From the dimension the only way to fit the sub is firing up. I will give you designs for both rear and up firing ports... you can choose which works best …

i have been searching the forums and technical advise.... but i dont see anything about FI speakers in a sealed application. i want to run 2-15's or 2-18's in the backseat (fiberglassed in) of my caprice, however i dont really like running ported enclosures. is sealed not an option with FI speakers?

I ordered a dual 2 recone for my IB3 and had to ask for a second set of terminal connectors since it was SVC before. I received the recone, but no terminal connectors... I assume I have to wait to finish the recone till I get a second set?

Hi all.I just placed my order for two SSD 18's.I can't wait to get them but in the mean time I was wondering how much power can they handle? I have a Autotek Street Machine 1500 watt amp that I was planning on using with them put I was curious if they could handle it.I did not get the BP power or flatwind coil when I placed my order.I got dual 1ohm instead of dual 2 ohm voice coils so im planing on running the subs at 1ohm.Any advice or help would be greatly appreicated.Let me know if any more info is needed and ill post it up.Thanks

What does the flatwind coil and bp power options do when buying the subwoofer? Im new to Fi and what the subs for spl.

I'm planning on getting a 12" Fi Q (dual 1 ohm with cooling, spider and heat ring) and putting it in a ported box and I am on the hunt for an amp to boot. I think I found what i want and its a Hifonics HFi1000D but i also saw a Hifonics HFi1200D for $50 more so i was wondering if its a good idea to go with the extra 200 watts and if i should just stay around 1000 watts since thats what the sub is rated at. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23548_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ1200.1D.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22705_Hifonics-HFi1000D.html edit: added the amps link.

Ok so i got a 18" BL Fully loaded and i was wondering if 1600 watts is not enough if someone could tell me that would be nice thanks.

I currently have an SSD 10" on a 1000/1 JL audio XD. the sub had all the cooling options and it is a dual 2 ohm I was an all out JL fan since high school and I was happy with my W7 for a very long time. After ripping 2 foam surrounds i decided to give FI a try I have a Sealed box @ .4cu. ft. and my SSD 10 has all the cooling options.. QTS, flatwound ETC ETC. well i have had the sub let me down 3 times thus far. The first time was spider seperation and the last 2 times were either a wire breaking off the chassis mount or a melted terminal. I have been out of the game for a while and im not saying im to blame for at least some of it. Truth be told I listen to Several g…

I have a 12in fi bl fully loaded and a sundown saz1500d with all 0g wire and stock electrical. My alternator is 110a. Im not sure what I will need to do to see full power from the amp. Would the kinectic 950 be enough for an extra battery in the back?

Nevermind, PM sent... thanks. Delete this is you like... Joseph K.

im fixing to purchase an o-scope to make sure my q's arent recieving any square waves. im metering the gain with my dmm but i want to be double sure. what kind of o-scope do i need? as in mhz and all that can someone point me in the right direction? thanks

So, I ordered 2 SSD 12's last week, (currently have 2 Pioneer 307's in a ported box I made a while back) I was just wondering how to make a decent ported box for the new subs. Car is a 97 eclipse, and the dimensions I got were (15h x 36w x 20d inches) I might be able to go .5in more on the height and depth. Would the height of the port be 13.5in? What should the length and width be? I'm using BassBox 6 Pro but when I put in the info for the port it adds to the total volume of the enclosure which for some reason makes me think it is going to come out wrong when I build it. Any help will be appreciated. I'll be powering them with a RF P1200.2 Thanks.

i am ready to purchase the fi bl 12. i have a hifionics brutus amp 1600 watts and i want to run it at 1ohm what option do i need on my speaker to run it at 1 ohm...??? dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm thanks in advance