Fi Technical

Hello again, Now it`s the time for some SQ after some flexxin` (ex: and hihi ).After 6 months of BoomBoom and re-listening to some local SQ cars(some brax users, scanspeaks, focal, microprecision etc) I bought from a friend (who upgraded to microprecision) a set of Focal 165 K2P woofers and HybridAudio L1 Pro tweeters and an Alpine 9835. Now I`m sounddeadning my car, especialy my front doors with 1layer of SS Damplifier Pro+Spectrum Sludge+Damplifier+OverKill pro. Amps: HAT L1pro: Zapco Z50S2; Focals: Premier; Fi Q15: US Amps XT4000(1500W@1ohm load). What enclosure should I build for an SQ setup....a 2cuft or...2.5-2.6 cuft? The subwoofer is behind the front stag…

Is it possible to order just a recone kit and diy? If so what are the prices on 12" and 15" BTL's anyone know? Also is there a way to contact Fi directly other than e-mail like a phone number?

i have designed a 7 cft enclosure for an 18 btl. the volume is with woofer displacement. how do i calculate a port to 30 hz then? is this ok?: 4,72" * 19,69" * 29,92"

does anyone have a blueprint that I can use for a single FI Q 10'' tuned between 28-30hz?

Umm I'm having a bit of a problem. I need someone to go into bass box pro or whatever you like and design me a box. The external dimensions are 27Hx40Wx25D. I'd like it ported. Please don't tell me to get different subs or a different car, I just can't make that happen.

I have an 18" Bl and i want to know what gauge wire you think would be best to run from the speaker terminals to the sub from a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BD. Thanks!!! I want the most power i can get to it so im thinking 8 guage but may be too big so please help!!

I was looking into getting a btl 18” I was wondering which option would be better a dual one or dual two ohm subwoofer??? Thanks in advance

Well i decided to see if my 15" Fi BL is working before i get my box so i installed it without the box... I wired it parallel and when i turned my car on to play some music I would say about 1 min smoke started to come out ... it wasnt very much smoke but i need to know if this is normal for a new sub to do that.. also the sub was getting hot... what could be the probelm??? :

Fella's, I was wondering would it be better to fire my 12" BL's forward in my SUV or to the rear towards the tailgate? I cant fire them up so its either forward or backwards? Thanks in advance.

I know that FI can recone the 3hp motors(3000's) w/ the tall top plate. Its has the 4 holes on the top plate. I know you machine adapters. My question is, instead of sending 70 lbs of motors to you to be reconed, could you just send me the recones/baskets adapters and I'll do it myself. It'll prob save a bunch of money and possible shipping damage( I don't have good luck )... Thanks, Joe. P

would one of this be good or two for a pair of 18Q's...?any other suggestions on an amp is welcomed. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=1818

i bought 2 bl 18's d2's in 2008, one in october, one in november. Now i am wanting to run 3 18's but was told not to mix those 2 with newer bl 18. I got these 2 with cooling, flatwind and universal options. Do you have any older bl's in stock or stuff to build one? Or could I run a new one with those? thanks

I picked this sub for cheap and all I have to power it is a sundown that pushes 600rms at 2ohm just was wondering if it would be okay to give the sub such low rms compare to what it could handle. or should I just get another amp that does 1000 at 2ohm. Also I have kinectic batteries with a 120amp alt wondering if that be fine or would I have to upgrade it anything. 12.8v and 14.5 at startup i think.

i need a price for an re xxx 15" dual 2 recone. also how much for a 12" recone for it. i need this price hopefully today. i dont want to call scott since he is so busy if at all possible. thanks!!!

Im looking around locally for a place to build a box for 2 15's. Ive heard of a place called precision audio but I'm not too sure if they use quality material/planning/preparation/etc. All I know is they charge about 250-300 for a box. Does this sound reasonable to you? I know there are a whole bunch of variables but judging from your past purchases and stuff, let me know, thanks.

building a normal box but using two layers of 3/4 mdf all around, which way would be the strongest? i know the first would be the easiest with less cutting, but would number 2 be so much stronger that i should definetly go with that method? Number 1 Number 2 any opinions are appreciated!

I have 4 15" kicker's in my car right now running off 2 hifonics 2006's. i am thinking about putting either 4 18's into a truck or 2 18's of the trunk of my car. i want to flex and have a lot of bass. i already sound loud i my car but i want more. do you think i am jumping out there to far with purchasing 4 fi btl 18's? and if so what sloutions do any of you have for me to get flex and more bass? I will probably using the same amps or buying the slightly higher rated brutus. Oh just fyi the car is a lincoln towncar

So heres the deal: I bought 2 12 X's A few months back during the clearance, and I put them in a horrible prefab ported box with circle ports and after about 2 days, a blown out side panel. Supposed to get 1.6-2.2 cuft in a ported box, I think theyre getting 1 each. It sounds decent I guess, but if I get it past about 1/3 volume, I get the worse port noise I've ever heard. I just got back from Home Depot, and I bought a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 MDF. I'm planning on starting the construction of my new box tomorrow. I've decided on sealed, because to be honest, theres about 0 chance of me successfully building a ported box. Here are the stats for the X series 12's: Sealed box: .9-…

I have an 12'' Fi Q coming soon and i needed a box and i dont have time to do one myself so i went to the local audio shop to ask him what would be the best option. The owner actually held the loudest street car for two years in a row fyi....but I drive an f150 and i have a spilt rear seat. I wanted to take out the smaller section and have the box in that area so it wouldnt take up room for my passengers. His plans for my box is to have the sub face the floor of my truck as well as the port facing the floor. It will eventually exit out the side (meaning the port). He says that it will have the right cubes and hz. He says that when the sub faces down, it will shorten the …

I have a custom box already built that i have a 15 in at 3.5 cubic feet. I was wondering how a 12 inch btl would respond to 2k watts in that overly large box? P.S. its tuned to 32 hz

I had an enclosure built and waiting for it to arrive. I am impatient and wondering what you guys think about the demensions. I got a basic 12" Q D1. Sealed enclosure: Width= 14.75" Height= 12" Depth= 15" Which is said to be 1.27 cubic feet "net volume" I am planning on facing the sub upward toward the roof in the back seat of my truck

i have around 900wts at 2 ohms looking to do a single 15" ported box. listen to rap and classic rock. which would work best a Q or ssd wth copper vc.

Will tuning to 35hz be good for daily driving? Alot of people say that tuning is a little to high for a btl. What do you think?

which fi sub would sound the best in my ~7 cube box. its about 3.5 cubes before port so about 3 cubes per sub. the box is tuned to 29hz and since its the biggest possible box i was able to make that fits in and out of my trunk with ease thats all i really wanted. so i want to keep the box but by the specs of the sub which would get loudest in this prefab box.

Thinking about switching up from my 15 BTL to 2 Qs 15... Would I see any huge difference in loudness... I mean the BTL is god awful loud but I'm always wondering. Trying to figure how to fit everything back there the two dekas, 2 1500ds and a 100.4. Thinkin 7 cubes @ 30 hz.