Fi Technical

The BTL line is our flagship woofer. Its whole design is based on and focused on being able to throw tons of power to something in a Bass Race or �Street Jam� situation. Options Available are as follows: P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. We recommend at the bare minimum to get this option if you choose this series of woofers. Cooling: Self explanatory, the cooling channels are machined into the inside of the sub to help cool the coil FAR better. But there are some things that you sacrifice. There is less me…

New Q Options for 2010! Cooling: The 2010 Q now features a solid pole piece that allows the addition of the Helicool cooling system that will allow an additional 200-500 watts of power handling depending upon install and scenario. Bottom line this option increases thermal power handling capacity over a “Stock” Q. P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. Please note if you select “Cooling” this option is included in the cooling package. High QTS: This option is for users who intend on using the new Q series woofers…

SSD Series: Available options and what they do: Flatwound coil (+$20) – The flatwire coil option simply helps the power handling of the sub. The coil has more surface area to dissipate heat and will take more power then the regular round wire coil that comes in the ‘stock’ version of the sub. This option will also make the sub tend to be more prone to ‘peaking’ for a budget daily driving sub where you don’t have to use a ton of power to get maximum output and sacrifice sound quality a little bit. Copper coil (now standard) – The copper coil is a heavier coil and adds mass to the moving assembly. In comparison to the stock coil, or the flatwound coil, this has the smoothe…

BL Series: Available options and what they do: The BL line is pretty much a lower power alternative to a BTL or a higher power alternative to the Q series of woofers. This is more of a street jamming type woofer that “fills the gap” if you will between these two series of subs. Keep in mind this is what we recommend, this is NOT what you have to do. P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. We recommend at the bare minimum to get this option if you choose this series of woofers. Hyper Pole: This is an extended vers…

All of the links below will link you directly to our box cut sheet page. Keep in mind these are general boxes for daily driving scenarios. If you are shooting for maximum SPL you are on your own. That only comes from trials and testing. X series cut sheets! SSD series cut sheets! Q series cut sheets! BL series cut sheets! BTL series cut sheets!

Video format of our options and what they are and do.

Watch the video...explains everything in great detail.

10” Q series ported and sealed cut sheets! 10” Q series sealed enclosure @ .5 cubic feet 10” Q series ported enclosure 1.25 cubic feet @ 32Hz 12” Q series ported and sealed cut sheets! 12” Q sealed enclosure @ 1.2 cubic feet 12” Q ported enclosure 2.35 cubic feet @ 32Hz 15” Q Sealed and Ported box cut sheets! Sealed @ 2.5 cubic feet 15” Q ported box 3.8 cubic feet @ 32Hz 18” Q series Sealed and Ported box cut sheets! Sealed @ 5.00 cubic feet Ported 6.9 cubic feet @ 32Hz

BL Series enclosure cut sheets! BL 10 1.2 cubic feet @ 32Hz BL 12 2.4 cubic feet @ 32Hz BL 15 3.9 cubic feet @ 32Hz BL 18 7.6 cubic feet @ 32Hz

Hey guys, Im really hoping someone can help me out with this..i purchased a sp4 about 2 months ago,but recently put it in my car 3 days ago as i was waiting until i had everything i needed to run my setup properly.. amp gain was set with an o-scope so no clipping and also radio was under point of clipping also. (amp -sundown saz 3000,cd player pioneer avh-4300, all 0 guage wire (monster) and a 270 amp alt from dc power..and some deka d31 batts.I pulled up home and after i turned off my car i noticed a smell comiing from my trunk and opened it and heard what sounded like flames burning. there was a lot of smoke coming from my port and it would not stop so i hurried to pul…

10” SSD series ported box cut sheet! 1.45 cubic feet @ 32Hz 12” SSD series ported box cut sheet! 2.5 cubic feet @ 32Hz 15” SSD series ported box cut sheet! 3.5 cubic feet @ 32Hz 18” SSD Series ported box cut sheet! 7.5 cubic feet @ 32Hz

I took my woofer to my install bay today and they were shocked I wanted to tune to 33hz. They felt that was way too low. Now, I listen to all types of music, pop, #1 hits, old school rock etc... but mostly Sirius hio channels and some Ipod songs (JayZ etc...) I just want to be sure this box is tuned to where I need it to be. He wants to build it to 4 cubic ft and tune it to 38 - 40hz but I see almost everyone on here tuned lower. Thoughts?

BTL series enclosures and cut sheets! BTL 12 2.45 cubic feet @ 32Hz BTL 15 4.00 cubic feet @ 32Hz BTL 18 7.00 cubic feet @ 32Hz

Hi First, Im glad to be part of this community. Ive been reading a couple of threads and I can tell there is a lot of people who know what they are talking about (from what I know). I recently joined a couple of forums but none of them were really helpful. I hope you guys can help me out!. So Im saving up for a FULL (all options and cooling) 18" BTL. From what I been reading, it looks like I will definitely need at least 2000watts RMS amplifier and an extra battery. Just to know, will the BTL run without an extra battery? In other words, with just the stock? Thats the sub. Now, for the amplifier, I was thinking about the Hifonics BXi 2010D. However, I just found out a lot…

I have only recently built my first vented box and ive built a few sealed but anyone can do that. I want to try a 4th order to see how it works. my goals are to flatten my response curve and hit 30-90 hz. a large part of this is just the experience so its not all about the sound but i do want to get a more musical setup with high output volume. I played with things all night and read up with what i could to see how this thing is ment to work. thoughts? the .33 cubic that is directly off the sub cone in the vented box is not taken into consideration on the torres sheet. by my math the tuning will lower itself a bit with that.

Would it work out fine if i were to buy an BL or BTL, build an enclosure to spec, and power it with a crown amp or something or is that a dumb idea?

Just ordered a SP4 15 from Fi and am hoping to get a box design going for it before it's to arrive. I'm not the best with designing boxes and tuning them therefore hopefully someone may be able to help. Max trunk space available for enclosure: H=16" W=30" D=26" Was wanting to tune the box @ 36hz with about 5 cu ft. Any help on cut sizes and port dementions?

What is the most efficient subwoofer you guys build in your standard lines? Please, only someone from FI on this one.... -Mike Edgar

i getting Fi Subwoofer so which Best Fi IB3 or Fi Q or Fi BTL for music i want playing very very louder bass music for longer time at home not car so i dont want blown woofer and i dont want voice coil blown so how i like so much louder bass so how Fi Subwoofer can play louder bass for longer time to playing music so how

To figure out the square inches of port area needed per cubic ft of volume, do I just multiply the vent width by vent length? And then I just take that number and divide it by how many cubic ft the box is? This is what I'm just guessing as I'm not sure of this. Please help.

hello everyone, can someone tell me how to tune a subwoofer box or knows of a good online calculator thats is acurate??? i need a box for two fi bl15' s i got 43 inches wide and 18h to play with in my trunk. i have a rockford fosgate t215 sitting here next to me now. before a met my fibl15 i thougt t215 was the best sub out there on the market, very well desinged but after putting my fibl15 in the same box same amp i was like wow it gets louder than my t2 so im getting another bl15 and I AM A sell the rockford, to be hones i never tought the bl15 would sound better than my t2 since it weighted a lot less was a lot smaller i really was disaponted when i saw my fi its not…

so i wired up my 4 fi bl 1ohm dvc subs up to my kicker zx2500.1. have them all wired up to a 2 ohm load(checked with a ohm meter) and it doesnt sound good at all. i get it past quarter volume and it starts to distort and sound like crap. im positive its something in my wiring but i cant seem to find out what. i have no idea how to post pictures on here. i followed a rockford fosgate wiring diagram http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4204724#post4204724 not sure if im allowed to do that lol but there is a picture of how i wired it on there.

X series boxes!! 10” X series ported box cut sheet! 1.14 cubic feet @ 32Hz 12” X series ported box cut sheet! 2.3 cubic feet @ 32Hz 15” X series ported box cut sheet! 3.2 cubic feet @ 32Hz

I'm just curious, what in the heck is the cause of my Fi SSD 15" terminals on basket to melt? I've think It's killed my amp - A kicker ZX1000.1 with little warning. I had everything wired correctly and it's been bumping flawlessly for several months when last week I noticed my amp was off. I started looking over all my wiring starting from the hood, to the amp, to the sub. When I pulled my sub out I noticed on one side of the coil the positive and negative, well rather the positive melted towards the negitive post and caused a short. Im just curious as to what caused this? I'm still running a stock alt in the car and I know the kicker amp drawed alot of power to whe…