Subwoofers / Speakers

So what I'm looking for is some clean, tight, bass to add to my current setup. Loudness is not really what I'm going for, I don't want the sub to overpower the rest of my system. I currently have a 4CH JL amp feeding 60W (i think) to some 6.5 mb quarts. Now I'd like fill out the bottom end. When I put in a sub I'd like to run a hpf on my components so that they don't have to play the lower freqs (is this right?). Also, space is a concern. So from what I've read on this forum, I'm thinking of going with a SA-12 in Dual 4 coils and the most powerful amp @ 2ohms that I can afford. Was looking at the Alpine MRPM500 or MRXM50. I'd like to go with a sealed enclosure, but…

I have narrowed down to 1 12" ported, 2 10" ported or 2 12" sealed for bass racing! The ported box will be tuned to 32hz.

Vehicle is a 2004 lincoln aviator. I want components that will fit in stock locations for all four doors. The setup is a pioneer 3800 head unit, fi bl 15 in 4 cubes ported at 32, T1000-1bdcp. I need components that will fit the doors (tweeters I can mount anywhere) that will give me decent coverage. I'd prefer to not drop a ton on the speakers overall, maybe $400 total. I'm going with either a punch or power 4 channel for the mid amp.

I have talked to a tech about this and want to know what i should do... I only have 1 sundown 100.4 to work with so there's my power source. I have 2 Image Dynamic CXS65s that are 100wrms components. I also have 2 Image Dynamic CX62s that are 150wrms @2ohm. They are wired to the sundown. I need more midrange... The tweeter level is bout right but i need more midrange, a lot more. CDT said i might wanna try out their new CenterStage kit which consists of 2 2" midrange tweeters mounted on the dash that drastically increases midrange. They have no power rating or ohm load rating so i dont know if i can hook em up to the amp or not... They want $400 for em and i dont know b…

In the review section on SSA. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...t=0#entry354691

CVLT-50 1" TITANIUM BULLET TWEETERS SPECIFICATIONS: Oversize 1” High Temperature Kapton Voice Coil High Density Neodymium Motor Structure Weight Titanium Dome Structure with Ferro Fluid Cooling Cast Aluminum Frame with Chrome Finish Impedance: 3 ohm Power: 50W RMS / 100W peak SPL @1w/1m: 109dB+ Frequency Response: 3KHz-20KHz Mounting Depth: 1.6” Packed in pairs with Mylar Bass Blocking Capacitors. Replacement Diaphrams Availible. CVLT-60 - TWEETERS - Cadence Acoustics, LTD If you have heard or heard of these, what do you think? -- No results found for 'CVLT-50'.

What is the extension for the MLI-65? Looking to possibly use these in my doors for a DIY comp set?

Hi Guys, Just in case some of you didn't catch the site, I'm headed out on holidays this Friday. I'm not suppose to be back until August 13, but I'll probably be around at least once during that period. Heading up to the cottage for some *cough* relaxation (read work). Take care all. Mark

i have a 2002 lexus es300 same trunk and the new camrey i think. i'm thinking ported, tuned to somewhere around 28 or so. i have no idea really i'm not a box guy at all. same tuning if i use 2? i have a hifonics zues 1000d that does 1000@1ohm i want clean sound but i want lots of bass when the right song comes on so i can crank it. would it be better to get 1 or 2. if i get 2 can i get a better amp in lets say 6 months? us amps 1500@1ohm? i was going to get 1 but i see people posting about 450 watts on 1. will 1 sound cleaner then 2 at 1000@1ohm? how muhc louder will 2 be then 1? sorry for all the ? but i want to amke 100% sure what i'm doing. can i buy box plans from…

Hello guys/ladies, I have been buying peice by piece for a Diy active component system, Right now I currently have: Headunit- Sony Cdx-Mp70 ( yes its sony but it will work for now) 4 Channel- Power acoustik amp Mono Amp- lanzar Vibe1800D Electronic Crossover- Coustic XM6 Okay so for so good I guess, I am not too sure what to get for mids I am looking into Dayton RS series as well as Mach 5 Mli-65's. Mark at mach 5 is sending me some Mli-65's to test and do a review, I'll have to see if I like the way they sound.. As for the tweeter I have a pair of Dayton ND20FA's coming from partsexpress on Wednesday the reason I ordered these was becuase of all the reviews they recieve…

Okay, I am a SQ person, so I'm not necessarily hip on loudness. SO, my buddy calls me up today and he wants me to look for something LOUD. Three 12s or Two 15s at least. Will be run by a pair of JL 1000/1s. First off, he gave me a budget of $450 for drivers. I need something that will fit in about 10 cubes, no more. THis is of course net displacement. He care nothing of sound guality. He just wants to get loud. Street beating, no fart cannons please. So I leave it in the hands of you, those who like it cranked. Don't let me down! His previous install was two 12W6v2s and they got pretty loud, but not enough for him.

I bought a brand new 15" xcon d2 from SSA for $388 back in early September. I've had it all this time just sitting here, since we've been working on getting a custom box designed, I've gone through so much frustration that I'm just wanting to give up and not deal with this anymore. How much do you think I would be able to sell this sub for? Still it's in brand new condition, never used, like I said never connected or used even once, and can be vouched for by another member here Dustin (DC-Creations - custom box builder), who I actually met with, all we did was screw in the sub into the box but, we couldn't get the box to fit in the trunk. So, couldn't use it. Also just …

what are some good ground pounder subs? i have no plans in competing i just want something that have deep bass that can go low and sound good in the process... i have 8.3 cubes where the rear seats would be in my truck. i dont want to run no more than 5500 watts. Something that love low tuning would be great and my budget is $1200 max for just subs. the size of the subs really dont matter all that much. Im just trying to get different ideas on whats out there..I will be getting a box design from ram designs as soon as i make my mind up on subs

ok there is this kid with 3 12" AW1200Qs nad they r not that bad it gets loud it hurt my ears a lil bit. so i know audiobahn r not good but these we decent what ya think

I am looking into getting a 18" Fi Bl or Q for daily use. Just a little caught in between the two right now. Is going in a Hyundai xg300 powered by a kicker zx1500.1. my only concern is space(32w 17h 33d) those are external demolitions before displacements if i go with the bl it has to have a ported box and they tend to be bigger than regular sealed boxes. i would prefer to do this by making a deep box that takes up my whole trunk but at the same time i wont be able to slide it in easily or at all if i go with the Q i am sure i can get a sealed box made that will fit in probably with a little poly fill. Only concern with that is even with the BP power option will it …

Yes I've search around for comparison of the Mach 5 Audio IXL 12" with other subs, but with not much luck. So I was wondering people who have experience with this driver how does it compares with the RE Audio SE's, the FI Q and the FI SSD in Loudness in sealed enclosure of 1ft^3 I know they have awesome SQ, can they handle much more than they rated 1000wrms daily? For a loud daily driver with multiple of subs like 20+ in a sealed enclosure, which one of the above will you choose? it has to be loud sealed because a bunch of them, good sq and good power handling. Do you guys think it's a good idea to go with 24x of the IXL 12" sealed diamond or clamshell enclosure? Anyw…

My new toys;

Wanting to know if the enclosure volume requirements have been determined yet?

So last week while driving and listening to music at a moderate level, my left mid goes out all of a sudden. It comes back on then out again about two more times until it completely stops. The tweeter was still playing fine however. Now I'm pretty baffled by this. I checked every connection, from the amp to the crossover and then finally the speaker itself. Nothing was wrong, but I redid the connections at the amp and crossover anyways. Still didn't fix it. I took the speaker out of my door to inspect it and test it on an amp in my bedroom. Nothing is visibly wrong with it, coil is perfectly shiny, cone moves up and down without any problems. Tried testing it in my room…

I have not used winISD or any program like that before. Is it a freeware program??? or does anyone have some plans for a SI 15 ported???

hi, i am thinking of getting 2 12" D1 icons and putting them in a 2.2 F^3 ported enclosure tuned to 33 hz and possably being powered by a Saz 1500d. i am not a basshead by anymeans. and i listen to mostly to rap and i am wondering how loud would they be even the above info(granted that they are sq subs).

Well this wknd I got so pissed off... you know the type where you want to distroy the world. Anyway I through a remote(big TV remote) and the bastard thing smached into my sub busting the dustcap and slightly denting the top of the coil. Now Im going to try and fix it but need to know if i can use a domed dustcap where the previous one was inverted. will it change the sound/performance alot? was planning to use it for an SPL project as this budget sub gets louder then my BL and can take the abuse. It cant take a direct hit from a remote though. would appreciate your imput.

OK....so I took a 3 months extended vacation from the forums....time to get back in to the groove....and sellin drivers! I heard Nick is giving away the first batch.....Who wants a free one?

looking at zaphaudio.com, this SB Acoustic speaker is the best bang for the buck around $50 a piece. But I've seen a lot of people mention this Peerless speaker as well. The only negative I can find is the SB speaker is 8 ohms so I'd have to find a slightly larger amp to give them their full 60w @ 8 ohms compared to the peerless which need 50W @ 4 ohms. Not necessarily a negative I know...I just read up on why higher impedance is not bad. No place around here has these speakers so I can't really listen to them and determine for myself which I like better. Anyone have any input on these two? If I buy a set, they'll be installed in my front doors running off a 4 channel…

Is it bad on the subwoofers if I'm running one amp on each sub? The subs are in the same ported box and i know to set the gains on the amp relatively close to one another. Is this a bad idea?