Subwoofers / Speakers

I have a sealed box that I bought for my Trans Am (well, Firebird back then, before I upgraded) about 7 years ago. I love the way it looks, and it allows me to store my T-tops in the rear. It was made for 2x 12" Kicker L5s, which I just got rid of because they sounded sloppy. They were loud, but not in a great way. I am in the process of modifying the box to allow 12" circle subs, and each chamber will have around 1.1cu ft each. I want my setup this time around to be a little cleaner and sound better. Last year I installed some CDT components up front, with 6.5" CDT woofers in the rear. I plan on powering them with a PPI P900.4, just waiting to make sure it will f…

So the speakers in my 04 Accord just arent cutting it. I had them sounding good on rap, country, pop, etc but when it came time to play bands like a day to remember or wage war they just were super harsh. So I played with the EQ today and had to basically lower all my settings to make it bearable on the kind of music. It still sounds pretty good on other genres but just not as loud as before. In the past I have always ran coaxial and it is what I prefer for ease of installation. I've also in the past used the HU to power them. I've run Polks DB series many times and like how they sound, also I run JBLs in my gfs TL and they sound pretty good too. But I figured I'd see wha…

Looking to go with a 12" sub hopefully but the box specs are the same if it was a 10 or 12 inch sub. Specs are: 1 ft 3 sealed. 5.75 mounting depth Going to be a stealth box custom made by someone other than jl... I was thinking sundown sd12? Anything out there that i could fit in a box like that and get some decent output?

Ok, let me start by saying I don't know chit about active, passive, crossovers, etc. I'm looking to get a new highs setup. I have a set of cadence components which I guess would be passive. I have a singlecab silverado so I was kinda thinking about losing the rear speakers completely and running just the front. Im guessing active would be the best way to go. What do I need to do this? I plan on getting 2 mli-65's to start and a good four-channel amp. The HU i have now is a pioneer premier DEH6800MP. From what i've read, I dont think this HU is that great when it comes to the audio settings. I'm debating on replacing the pioneer with an eclipse cd5000 but what do you g…

got this recently. decided to snap some pics for you fellas. it's a hertz audio hi-energy 12. enjoy. pretty nice and simple cone with the Hertz logo on the dustcap. brightass orange magnet rubber boot. Natural fiber cone ftw. pretty plain looking butt. i'm still keeping my RL-p 15. more than likely the RLp will see home theater duties. box build will soon follow.

What's going on guys. I've been putting together some ideas and funds for my next project. The car is a 99' Honda Civic Ex coupe. So far I've picked up a Kicker kx2500.1 for my subs. My next question may come off as a FAQ, but this is a more specific question towards my application. Right now it's a toss up for me between 2 12" Fi Q's or a single 15" BTL. Either system will be sealed off from the trunk in around 4 cu. ft tops. I'll play a variety of music on this system, mostly rap, but it will be shown off FREQUENTLY... I'm just looking to get as loud/low to the ear as possible on a daily basis. I am open to other ideas as well, I'm just favoring these 2 in particular du…

So i just got my new infinity kappa speakers a few days ago. While i was installing them, i noticed they were crackling alot while i was screwing them to the door. After a good amount of investigation, i came to realize that the frame of the speaker (or any metal on it) was creating a short on the door of the car itself. I could take my knife and touch the speaker frame and then touch the door, and it would short with sparks arching at the other end. The stock speakers were coated in plastic around that area so that the screw was isolated from the speaker and wouldnt short. Does any one know why this is happening? any ideas on how to keep it from happening on my new spea…

hey guys just joined up here...i have around 3k posts over at caraudio.com forums right now i have a single 18" Fi Q in 6.5 cubes ported on 1000 watts in my jeep grand cherokee ive heard tons of things about the MJ18.. i am trying really hard to decided if i should change it to 2 MJ 18's sealed in around 7 cubes with 400 watts a piece... from everyones experience what do you think will i gain any output? i am gaining cone area but loosing RMS/sub i am also going from ported to sealed because i am not sure if i could fit the MJ's ported. let me know thanks guys

i have a sae-1200dv2 and i have big 3 done in 1/0 and i have a sheriken bt120.

I need some calculations or box and port volumes for my maw 15s,so when they arrive,i can start my box.I plan on 1 big box divided into 2 equal chambers ported.i put in the port calculator and it said for a 15 in driver w/xmax of 13mm 3cuft@30hz like the specs for the maw 15 call for it says port needs to be minimum of 40.5 sq inches and 37 in long to get 30hz.what box and port size does Mark recommend for max output and sq?and is 3 cubes include displacement of sub and port or is it 3 cubes plus port and sub disp.thanks for the help....Dave

Question 1) I might be purchasing a used Magnum and wanted information on its Power Handling. Does Stereo Integrity offer such information? Question 2) If I wire only one voice coil and terminate the second coil with a resistor (potentiometer) to vary the driver's Q in a sealed box, how much power can I send to one voice coil?

I want the Sundown Audio SA-15. Two of them. And a SAZ-2500D. One of it. Will I overpower the subs? I know, i know, the specs say 600rms but I want to hear some experienced people tell me how hard they bang and if they can handle more. Just looking for some nice project ideas.

Showed off the 302s to a friend who is running an entirely Alpine Type-R setup. He was quite impressed... I believe his exact words were, "Wow, now that is clarity." His Type-R components sound pretty good, don't get me wrong, but they most definatly weren't equal to the 302s -- and he agreed with that no arguments. The Type-R tweeter sounded somewhat shrill in comparison and the midbass capability wasn't anywhere near the 302s. And, of course, since he had no EQ you could sense the mids rolling off in his car, where that wouldn't be happening with the 302 midrange. Steven, I need to track you down sometime you can take a listen -- you might end up wanting a set!

Need a new efficient comp set. Doors are well sound deadend, and have about 65rms @ 4ohm or 130rms @ 2ohm to work with (I dont like to run my amps at full power, especially in this heat). Looking for a as much midbass as I can get (resonably), and very dull tweeters. I cant stand high pitched sounding tweets, I have my Crescendos on -3DB and the HU's 5th band set to -5DB to get them right for me. For budget, Im looking for the best bang for the buck. $80-100 or less would be ideal, though I can do about $150-160 at most. I was thinking of trying Infinity since they are 2ohm and will get me a bit more power. The Refrence 6030CS or Kappa 60.9CS. Was also considering a set…

What is the recommended enclosure for the PBX XS15 with the 280oz magnet? What enclosure do these work best in? What sub would you compare these to?

Heres the situation...I have Boston Acoustic NX67 (around 5yrs old) in the back of my rsx. The problem is that when i raise the volume on my Alpine 9807 HU to around 15 at 200hz, mid-range +4 I get severe distortion from these speakers. A ppi 2240 amp is powering both these speakers and the front CDT Classic Components. The Comps sound beautiful at this volume, you can really here the mids and highs articulate and hereinlies the problem. I want to be able to play my deck at this volume at this specific x-over frequency (200hz) without the rears distorting. Would I be best suited to 1.) replace the boston coaxials with a speaker that can handle higher rms, 2.) replace…

hey guys, i normally dont put aftermarket door speakers in my car bc i have never had anything loud enough to need them lol, but i got an 18" fi q and its pretty loud. my door speakers are in the process of becoming blown lol, so im looking to upgrade...i dont really want to run an amp, would like to just do some speakers, preferably that will fit in the stock location. it will be in a 2003 ford focus zx3. the stock speakers are 6x8 and 3 inches deep. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanx guys.

http://www.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=115401 I started a thread on CA.com, im trying to come up with a good box, and im not really too happy with the frequency response my 2000SPL's offer using WinISD. This being a more serious, on topic forum, does anyone have any suggestions or answers to the questions asked on that thread? feel free to post either here or on CA.com Thanks! Sergei

hello all, i currently have one dual 2ohm xxx15 in a snail shell designed enclosure wired to a bx1500d at one ohm. ive had this setup for about a year and it is very loud and sounds very good, but with this hobby, you all know how it goes; you always want to try something new and im still quite the bass-head.. ive wanted to try ddaudio for years and i think its about time. so, i was wondering if any of you guys would recommend the dd3500 series. ive always been a single-sub kind of guy, but 2 12s sound so intriguing because of the added cone area over a single 15, especially that of the dd variety, though the 9900

Does any of Soundsplinter woofers offer this?

Is it bad on the subwoofers if I'm running one amp on each sub? The subs are in the same ported box and i know to set the gains on the amp relatively close to one another. Is this a bad idea?

So I have been looking for a midbass driver for a long time now to add to my Diamond Hex comps. I would still like to get my hands on some SI 8" drivers (hopefully they haven't been abandoned). But for now I am getting in on the RE group buy and gonna try the XXX6.5". But it leads me to have to find good xover for them. ANyone got a suggestion? Anyone at SI wanna build one for me by chance???

Ive had my 15" in a 4 cu/ft box ported to 28hz My friend has his XXX in a 3 cu/ft box to 34 hz I like his cuz it hits the lows nicely without distorting. My prob with the 28 hz at 4 cu.ft was some songs sounded horrible. What box would sound the best and get the lowest for rap music?

Hello everybody, I currently have a hifonics ZRX1216.1D It can do 1200w x 1 ohm or 600w x 2 ohm or 400 x 4ohms. I currently have a soundqubed HDS2.1 12" 600W rms subwoofer, I don't remember off the top of my head but I think I have it set up at 1 ohm. Anyway, I'm not sure If I should spend 188$ and get 2 600w rms dual 4 HDS2.1 12"s, or go with 1 SSA Demon 12" (dual 4 ohm) and eventually end up buying a second SSA Demon down the line. I'm starting to want to get into more quality built subwoofers over just cheap stuff so I really want to go with the demon but im not sure if its really worth it. They are on sale currently though so thats very enticing. The box i'm curren…

I got my brand new DC lvl 3 15" today. To start off i have to say the build quality is very good! It has 5 stiff spiders. Everything looks similar to what would be on an Fi sub/Ascendant/Sundown.. As for entry level. On to the sound... The low end is killer, top isn't as nice.. Dosnt play anything too audiable from 65hz and up. Enclosure is 7.2^ft gross, 3.7 cubic ft net tuned at 30hz, peaking at 45hz. Power handling on 2200rms isn't at its best but it can definatly take it for short burps/demos. I would recomend around 800rms to get this thing moving good. Overall it is a good sub and can get loud. Dosn't have the SQ of my old Fi Q but maybe its the enclosure... Output-7…