Subwoofers / Speakers

"Specifically the coil. for those of you that dont know the alpine type x uses a coil that has windings on the inside AND the outside of the former. what would you think would be the pros and cons of such a setup? I will keep my thoughts to myself at the moment, cuz i may be WAYYY off base thoughts?" thats a copy an paste from chad aka visitor on roe an since there many more sub designers over here figured id post it cause i wanna what advantages a design like this would have? any opinions?

well as it always happens i want to make a little more noise now and im starting to upgrade in the process of getting a t40001bd and 2 d3100 im torn between 2 18" btl's with p chamfer and the hixmax coil OR 2 18" bl's loaded im looking for reliability first and then loud tuned musically 31hz ish i guess my price range is 700-900 depending on whats out there im just trying to keep up i mostly listen to rap but i like how on the Q i can put some rock in and impress people with how the big slow 18 keeps up i got like 11 ^3 ft and polly fill to work with also any input is needed and appreciated

Well lets get this part out of the way, I have a Dodge Magnum, and I'm currently running a FI Q 12 D2 with BP power in about 2.2^3ft at 31ish hz on a Sundown 1500d. I love the sound of my setup (listen to primarily rock), very happy with it, EXCEPT i want my cargo space back! For fun I had it metered and put down a 140.8 on the TL. So what I'm looking to do is build enclosures for my rear storage pockets as you can see here. I want to attempt building them myself, but am using this for planning which means somewhere about .7 cu ft and 6.5 inches deep to work with. Obviously this would limit me to a sealed 10 or sealed or ported 8. For budget let's say 200ish a piece for a…

i know yall have heard me say i have 2 15" cvx's in sealed box which is about 5 cubic feet!! i wanna show off at prom next weekend but i only have 1 fi q 15"right now, the other one i ordered about 3 days ago, so it will take like a week for the other one to come in.... right now i have the q in the box on my kicker zx 1000. however i still have the 2 cvx's handy, so should i just use those to show off and put my titanium 2400 amp back in to push them? or would yall just leave the Q in on the zx 1000? to me the Q sounds alot better and picks up more frequencies but i'm still kinda breaking the sub in, i've probably played it for about 1 hour total! if you were in my shoes…

im looking at buying two soundstream splx 12's to put in a wall with a t10001bd to each sub. so has anyone use these subs before? i used to have 2 soundstream t415's and i love them.

I can't decide which one would be a better choice. The BLs are supposed to be louder but the Icons have better lows. Decisions, decisions...

Just wanting to find out how much power it takes before the xl starts pulling away from the normal lvl4. Or is the xl louder right from the start?

Will be using them for SPL competitions in IASCA.. will post my scores here.. Power - 2 Sundown SAZ1500Ds Batteries - 1 Powermaster D2400 up front and a D3100 at back Powermaster 140A alternator Headunit - Pioneer 6000UB Preamp - Soundstream 6XO Audiocontrol 6XS Crossover some hott dust caps! stitched tinsel leads, nice! the score to beat is 150.5dBs on the termlab (151.6dB AC) i made using a pair of Audiopipe TXX 15"s name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt…

ok im sorry but after reading some threads on here people need to know! all these this sub VS this sub threads are pointless unless your comparing 2 way different subs like a btl an cvr most time its gonna come down to install. i think the saying goes 90% install 10%equipment! honestly almost every sub can be made to do whatever you want if the install and overall setup is right! then people are asking which sub will have better SQ and honestly no one can answer that, 1) everyones opinion will differ on what sounds good 2) what is a good way to compare SQ again every install is different! people need to understand every speaker is just that a speaker theres not one thats …

Currently I am Running a 15" Fi Q ported in a 4 Cu. Ft. box supposedly tuned to about 32-33hz and stock speakers in a 99' Volvo S70. I am missing out on some hz's like above 60ish probably but i want some more lows... so what im thinking of doing is for now get some midbass speakers (or maybe even just some good 6.5's) so play from like 65-70hz up and leave the rest the same... then later replace my 15 with an 18" Q tuned at 28 and then bring the midbass down to like 60-65...? does this seem logical? Also would a 18 Q in a 5 cu ft box work well or do i need to get closer to like 6 or 6.5

Looking for some opinions as to how these are. How do they sound? How is the bass? It would either be these or the Morel Tempo 6s (both active). I like the XXXs because I've heard that the bass is good and I'm looking for a front stage with good bass as I won't have subs for a while. Thanks for any input

As I was making some room in my Jeep to get ready for my big move, I took out the subs and noticed that one of them had the dustcap loose and shreds of paper were in the box! Thankfully, the cone didn't shred. The sub still functions but it looks awful. Oh well, part of the game I guess.

seps - dls amps - rf t6004, rf t1500bd subs - dc lvl 4 with 5 coil

I plan on going with some 8's, and due to the sundown e8 shortage, I have to change up my choice of subs. Here are my conditions: Sealed- no more than .3 cu per sub power handling of 250 RMS minimum Price must be 115 or less shipped per sub. Mounting depth of no more than 4 3/4 inches(this is important) These are the subs on my short list, please post your first hand listening impressions only, no "oh those suck, because all of that brand sucks" Kicker solo classic 8( the brand new ones)- really curious about these Kicker 08s8L5- I dont want to join the "me too" crowd, but I'll run them if they are my best choice Polk MM840 - The new MM series, NOT the old MOMO. According…

I'm considering an ixl-18 for home theater, however as I don't have any money (yes, I need to sell something to buy the 18 ) I am limited when it comes to powering it. In this case, power will be from a harmon kardon receiver. I can comfortably massage 120wpc (rms) continous from the unit without a second thought. Modeling the driver in a 7cuft/19hz vented box in winisd shows me 111.5dB output 19hz and up at 240w.. I know the receiver will easily exceed 120wpc, and being that this is a dual 2ohm driver, I can reasonably expect 240wrms per coil for short bursts. Thermal limitations will come into play if it needs to supply that much power for extended periods though,…

hey fellas, i recently bought a new car, a 1999 olds 88 ls. its a grandpa car, i know, but thats ok, cuz i like it. now i like keeping the stock look for now, and dont have a lot of time/money/energy to put into the stereo right now. the stock system is ok for now, but i would like to upgrade the speakers for a little more clarity, midbass, and maybe the ability to turn it up a little louder with a little less distortion (though i realize this is probably also because of the stock cd player.) im wanting just some low-mid level upgrades for front and rear speakers. front speakers will probably come first. first question, is this even going to be worth it, if im not add…

I was initially going to run the Peerless SLS's to start out with but since i am limited on area for midrange and they are currently not in the best locations i decided to go with a dome for the off axis response and sealed chamber. That will be either the Dayton RS52, or the MB-Q 95-6814 (2" Ti dome) until i can afford the Dyn MD140 Anyway i have heard a few people say that they don't really play low enough/the SLS won't play WELL high enough, i was looking into the Dayton RS225 8" mids. They seem to be very nice and since i am constantly ordering from parts express, its the easy and cheap solution A member on another forum has a mint set of DLS Ultimate Iridiums for 175…

I just got my pair of new sdc2.5's along with my aq1200d amp. I want to wire it to 1 ohm and i believe the picture shows how to do it. However I'm very confused on the size of wire i need to use. I Believe i should use 4 gauge for the power and ground but what size should i use from the amp to the woofers. Not sure what size it is that the amp even takes for the subs. Does anyone know what the recommended size is or what the largest size the speaker outputs on the amp take. One more question what is the proper way to bridge the amp. Any help Would be greatly appreciated. Here's a link to the wiring I plan on using the top picture which will wire it to 1 ohm. Wirin…

I have a Toyota Auris (it is the new Corolla hatchback) with a little trunk. Here is my setup : hu Pionner 88 prs, speakers : focal 165KP (fr) and Davis Acousticscvt130(rear)on a Boston GT42 amp. sub:Kicker s15L74 on a Jl audio A1800D amp. Secondskin deadening,...... My sub is in a 4 cu ft sealed enclosure; and I really like the powerful output, but not so much the quality. I want to save some space in the trunk; I need a sub that can play very well in a 2 to 3 cu ft enclosure. I found the SSA Icon 15 or the FI Q 15 on the web, and think they can be good for me. Do you think I will be satisfied with one one them? I listen to a lot of reggae , dancehall and rap :I like hea…

I was wondering for those of you who own this particular sub, what kind of enclosure do you have it installed in? I'm considering porting it. DLS recommends sort of a high tuning. I'm thinking tuning it to the low 30s. I don't want to have any peaks in the response, so I want it to tune a bit lower than what DLS recommends (or should I just stick with their suggestion?)

lol silly question but do the IXL series (12" to be more specific) have mach5 printed on the dust caps? Cant remember where, but I've seen pictures of the IXL's without mach5 written, on the internet On your official website it is printed on there except the 15" & 18" so just want confirmation, also do you send out stickers when purchasing your subs?

So I bought some used DD 9917s off **** and apparently they were just reconed. Well, I had a box built for one of them just to try it out and I started to play it in the car and it wasn't exactly very loud and literally after a minute or so, the sub completely locked up. It was wired to two ohms @ 3000 watts which is pretty much nothing for a 9917. So, after that, I hook up the other one. I notice the strong smell of a burning sub after about 20 seconds of playing it loud then about 2 hours later it starts making a sound like a spring vibrating or something. This one isn't blown YET but I sense it's damaged. When I push down on it, I can feel it rubbing. Any of you guys …

I just ordered two Fi Q 15"s and i'm taking the 2 15"kicker cvx's out! My amp is the memphis 2500 or (Mojo) my car is a 97 honda civic... ok to the point will the Fi's be louder than the Cvx's in a big sealed box...ported is not really an option for me cause i'm leaning more towards a flatter response on low end and more towards sq!! but will the Q's still be louder than the Cvx's??? the box is 2.4 cub.ft per chamber! I know that your input on loud would be a ported box....but sealed which will be Louder?? Thank you

Im trying to find out which sub setup would be the loudest. All these subs have good enough sq for me. Im trying to stupid loud but only have 6cuft to work with and my amp is a sundown 1500. I dont want to use more than that in my trunk. All of the choices below are for the max recommended ported box specs. It will go in the trunk of a tahoe. The box & port will face the back. Tell me if theres anymore info you need. I want explanations also. -1 BTL15 in a 5cuft box -2 BL12 in a 5cuft box -2 SSA Icon 12 in a 5cuft box -2 Alpine Type-Rs 15 in a 6cuft box (cheapest) I also have three other choices but lower than the max ported box specs. Im sure it wont be that big of a…

Okay, So i have a 2001 jetta, i dont know how big my trunk is and i suck at math. I was orignally going to get 2 12's btl but everyone told me that i would neeed to upgrade my alternator and the big 3. is this true? so my other option was to go with the 2 12's BL, but i dont know if i would still need to upgrade anything electrical. but either way, i would perfer to get the btl but dont have enough money to get a new alternator and the big 3 okay, now either way if i were to go with the btl or bl, what would i want to configure the woofers too? like this list thing Ohm: P Chamfer: Cooling: Flatwind: Daily or SPL: Extreme Lead: Universal: Dustcap: i would be using this dai…