Subwoofers / Speakers

I have 300 watts x2 @ 4 Ohms. So power won't be a problem. But I wanted a three way setup because I really want to fill that MIDBASS category if possible.

How do these two stack up against each other? I like Fi, but am now the owner of a DC amp. Matching equipment might be nice. Plus, I don't think anyone in Miami has DC.

Thank you for reading my post. I am a 20 year veteran of car audio system building, though my involvement has drastically decreased since becoming a Dad. It's time to install a system in my 2012 Scion xB. I have a Rockford Fosgate T1001-bdcp amp that does ~750 watts @4 ohms or ~1100 @ 2/1 ohms. Most importantly, I am an old school basshead who still listens to real bass music from the early 90s (Techmaster P.E.B., DJ Magic Mike, Bass Patrol, etc.). My bass CD collection is a source of pride for me. Anyway....I am looking for a single 12" or 15" woofer that will give me the 20-25 Hz notes that I crave. My maximum external dimensions are something like 22" wide, 17" …

currently i have a Rockford Fosgate punch 501s amp and i want to find a 12 that will run great with that amp.. my amp specs are Bridged Into A 4-Ohm Load: 500 watts x 1 Per Channel Into A 2-Ohm Load: 250 watts x 2 Per Channel Into A 4-Ohm Load: 125 watts x 2 Any suggestions on a 12" that hits hard and clear?...i was looking at the decon 12" by ssa audio only problem is it only requiers 300wrms 4ohms or the sd-2 series by sundown 500wrms 4ohm but thats for shallower mounting depths and i want something that will slump... im open for any suggestions... i would be up for maybe a 15 if i have room for it. if their are better subs out their for my amp then those let me kno…

Nick I would appreciated any feedbacks from you or the others. I have a 99 Accord with a cup holder that pulls down from the middle of the back seat and creates a tiny rectangular opening through the trunk. Is it advisable to face my D2s directly through this hole from the trunk through the little hole in the rear seats? They are charging me 500 for this type of install (fiberglass). Let me know if this is advisable. All I want is a tight and punchy bass.

what do you say to this: Sealed boxes:"Sealed Enclosures are designed for sound quality and offer very low tuning frequencies. If you are building a system where the goal is to listen to music, these are the enclosures to build. They offer the best low frequency performance of all the designs." Ported boxes:"These enclosures will deliver higher sound pressure levels than sealed enclosures.The perceived loudness will be lower than a sealed enclosure, although the metered number will be higher." [ORION AUDIO] i always thought ported box were louder in all aspects. now orion says sealed is louder to ear than ported. how come?? and i simply dont understand the physic behind…

What's the cutout and overall diameter of the D2 15? Oh, and when building a box, should the baffle go inside the 4 sides, or on top of the four sides? Thanks.

I picked up some BNIB 10" Clarion subs for stupid cheap. In the owners manual they have box sizes listed for SQ sealed (.5 cubes) and SQ ported (.65 cubes). I've never seen SQ ported box recommendations before. Anyways, here's something else that was in the manual. Sealed: Power Handling-Good at all frequencies Linearity-Excellent Dynamic Performance-Excellent Efficiency-Good Subsonic Output-Excellent Midbass Output-Excellent Enclosure Size-Small Ported: Power Handling-Good above tuning frequency Linearity-Good Dynamic Performance-Good Efficiency-Very Good Subsonic Output-Good Midbass Output-Very Good Enclosure Size-Medium Does this mean that these subs are more suited …

I recently bought a 2000 s10 from my grandma. It was my grandpa's truck who passed away over a year ago. It has less then 40K miles on it and hadn't been driven more then 200 miles in the last 4 years. Anyways, I've been thinking about a new system for it. I pictured in my head that it would be cool to build a shelving unit above the sub box in the back of the s10 (extended cab with 3rd door). Would include two open bins on either side of truck, with open space in between with metal rack to bungie to. Not sure if you can picture that but I think it would be useful. I've narrowed it down to using woofers no bigger then 10", due to height. Currently I have a 12" xcon…

http://our6thplanet.com/garage.php?mode=vi...amp;image_id=92 Nothing much to look at, just 5.5" ID sonotube, 10" long. Should give me a 40hz tuning frequency for each sub. It feels louder, and there's another SPL comp on the May 6th weekend, so hopefully I'll be able to meter it then

I'm looking for a high SQ set up for my next car. I'm not sure what the car will be but it's coming soon. I'm in the idea phase right now. I'm looking for ideas on speakers, preferably coaxial. I'm also looking for a new amp for the speakers. I mean I want to have eargasms every time I get in the car lol. Also, at some point I do want a sub, but like I said I'm focusing on sound quality. I don't want it to overpower the speakers, but compliment them. I really want it to hit the really low notes with enough ease as I don't have to have it up all the way where the higher end of the base spectrum is too powerful. I listen to pretty much everything, including jazz, but main…

okay, i have gotten myself confused here, need some help fellars. oh, and only moderate flamming of the equipment here, it is not mine! lol American Legacy LA-2278 amplifier, 2 ohm stable @ 450 watts....... Three(3) Kicker CompVR 12"s , I believe they are 2 ohm DVC., 400 W.RMS...... If they are indeed 2 ohm. DVC., I will wire them parallel / series, so a 3 ohm. load on the amp..... if for some reason we find that they are 4 ohm. DVC., then the wiring will be series / parallel , which is a 2.67 ohm. load. ........ the question is, how many watts will the subs be seeing? I am assuming that there is a good chance that the amp will not do it's true rated power, but for all g…

which would be best for a daily driver? sa12's or ssa12's? i hear nothing but good things about both, just not sure which is more reliable in the long haul

http://video.snoopdan.com/reviews/mach5.htm

I'm considering buying a used Rl-i 12" to use in my '93 Nissan Altima. I've run an Ascendant Audio Atlas12" (now part of a set in my work van) as well as a Memphis PR12 and currently, an MClass12" (Memphis also). I'm using a smallish 1.2cf sealed box w/o any fill and have a USAcoustics2100 (300x1 @4ohm/12.9v). The MClass has pretty good SQ but lacks output (not as loud as the PR IMO). What is the VC configuration of the older RL-i 12 and would the power I have be enough to be happy with it or does it require more? Any box sizes that would work better sealed? How does it compare w/the subs I mentioned if any of you have owned or heard them? Thanks!! Jeremy

Does anyone know why ID never made one of these? Its seems stupid that they havent, seems like it could have been a good money maker if they would have done it years ago when they made the 10 and 12.

I am debating on doing 6 or 8 Lanzar opti 1535D's in my 99 4Runner. Walled Just wondering what you guys think of them?

I am upgrading my power on this sub from a Viper 1200, which already got it loud as piss, to a US Amps 07 model Merlin MD3D for daily street beating. How will the sub take the power? I have heard that in this power range in when the sub will really come to life. This won't be too much for daily will it? And what kind of increase in output can I expect? I know it may seem like a dumb question but any respones are welcome.

im working on a box for two mj18s and have a few questions what size of port do i need for a box 4.5cf tune to 30hz? would there be a big dif if the box was 4 cf instead of 4.5? ( my box is 9.36cf) any building ideals or stats or thoughts would be great thanks roddy

Does anyone know when Scott is going to come out with the full pro line? I am wanting to get an L841-3 Pro setup for a couple of my cars.

ive tried 3 different ones so far and ive got 3 different results using the same dimensions. all i need is .89 cu ft

Hey everyone I'm looking for a system for my 1995 Ford f-150 single cab pickup and I was looking to get a single 10 in icon sub for it but I'm still undecided on what I want I was looking for something that would be more than enough for it but I'm not sure on everything I will need for it and was wondering if you all had some suggestions that would make it loud but also sound good.

Hey Mark, I still haven't used my SPL-12s that you sold me about a year or more ago. Haha. I remember you mentioning something about the SPL-12s popping the dustcap off when they are pushed? You said drill holes in the dust cap, I can do that carefully, but is there a specific pattern or anything like that? I want to make it look neat, not look like somebody attacked my subs with a drill, haha. I'm not sure how far I'm going to push these, this is just for reference.

i plan on running 1 18" fi btl, and i really would like to give it as much power as i can without getting a new alternator,mine is a 120 amp. so if i got the saz-3000d can i run it off that if i did the big 3 upgrade and got a good start up battery up front and an extra battery in back? any help is appreciated and any other suggestions you have would be great, thanks

Hi, people! I've been sending some e-mails to SI lately, but have been getting zero response because I get a delivery failure notification. If somebody can tell me how to reach these guys, I'd be very thankful. The subject is getting a SI Magnum D2 15" sent to me in Norway, and possibly getting myself a dealer status if it's possible. Norway needs some better equipment than Pyle/Boss/Sony/MTX etc... By the way - just out of curiousity - which is better: The Stereo Integrity D2 15", or the SoundSplinter RL-p 15". The RL-p's cost less than half, but seems quite good after what I've heard. Is the SPL and SQ comparable between these two, and what about the durability? In my …