Subwoofers / Speakers
Discuss Subwoofers And All Aspects Of Speakers here.
6,865 topics in this forum
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that I am already wanting to try out either a new Mag, or a Rl-p, or w6. I have only had my mag for, well actually almost a year now, damn that went by fast. but I think its just from reading all the damn forums of people getting new subs it makes me want a new sub or two. well, I am definatly waiting to see the new SI sub. I love my Mag so much I am sure it will not dissapoint. I also think I am going to go back to the 3 12s configuration. I like the 15 but something about the 3 12s I miss.
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I just got my hands on a 04' Kicker 15" L7. Some girl was gonna throw this away in the dumpster, so I asked if I could have it. Anyway, I hooked this up to my Zed Mini and it powers up just fine. One thing I did notice is that there is a bit of cone noise (distortion) as if the cone is breaking up. Everything on the sub looks great. The surround spider and tinsel leads all look very new. Is this a normal thing for these subs? I'm not familiar with this model. I'll probably sell it in the near future if it's in good working condition. Any suggestions about my concerns? Thanks.
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I have a 4 channel amplifier, that's 2ohm stable when bridged. It gives out 4x140 @ 4 ohm and 2 x 360W @ 4 ohm. I'm going to use his amplifier to run a front stage and a small subwoofer in the rear. Is it possible to use one 4 ohm DVC subwoofer and connect each coil to their own speaker terminal? Would the result be the same if I just bridged two of amplifier termials and wired the subwoofer to 8 ohm?
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So I got laid off and decided to do a very budget center console sub build for my dodge ram qc. Just looking for opinions, good or bad on the following Phoenix gold rsd memphis pr jbl gt5 alpine type s Also open to suggestions in the $50 - $100/sub range. This is kind of a challenge to see what I can come up with on limited funds, not expecting any miracles. Haven't decided single or multiple sub set up yet, I am sure single would be the popular vote, though not as fun I listen to mostly hip hop, so ported is preferred, but not that big of a deal. The amp will be bought after subs are selected. Any other info needed let me know Thanks for reading Chad
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I am trying to figure out the best way to accomplish my goals here while maintaining a reasonable budget. i will eventually go higher end, but for now i have other things i need to spend money on. With my original doors in place i was limited to a 6.5-7" midrange and tweeter. I was considering the Seas prestige textile domes for the high end, and the AA Poly's or the ID Oem's from the guy on CA.com that are like tweaked CX64 drivers. New setup was built around DLS Iridium 8.3's with a 8 inch midbass, 3 inch midrange, and 1.1" tweeter. the actual door panel has a sealed enclosure of expanding foam and 1/4" thin birch ply attached, but i will have to cut it apart and reshap…
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h im looking to run 4 of these subs maybe 2 unsure yet but im looking to get 2 3000 watt dc amps, will the level 5 18 be good for 3000 watts or is it not enough
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i have a question for all you experts out there i have always heard that room gain starts at the frequency which 1/2 its wavelength is the distance from the subwoofer to the farthest distance of the room of course materials that the room is made of, etc take place but for the example i am going to use lets say there is 0 leaks and really lower resonance of materials used (ex concrete) is room gain greater if the room is 10 feet high by 10 feet wide by 30 feet long and subwoofer placed in a corner (room gain starts at 19 hz i think) 3000 or if the room is 7 feet high by 5 feet wide by 35 feet long and subwoofer is placed in corner (room gain starts at 16hz i think) …
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anyone have experience running these on magnums? i was thinking about getting the T03 2.2HV. it says in the manuel 750x1 at 4 ohm and they can go down to 1 ohm so im trying to figure out what they put out at 1 ohm.
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I am using the CSI-DMR-2012A volt meter and I am trying to measure the impedance of my speaker. So I set it to the 200 setting (lower right hand side if you look at the picture) and touch the probes to the terminals and I get 4.0 - 4.2. This is a two ohm speaker so shouldn't I be getting half that? If I did my research and talked with the right people I should be getting less than half of that current reading for a dual two ohm speaker. I liked this sub until I heard another and now I realize it does sound about half powered so something is wrong here...
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Well i got my D2 in today and it looks pretty beefy, and...plain lol. I installed it and it sounds really good, I love the sound and how clean it stays while hitting hard. my question is what kind of logo should I put on the sub? And is there a site I can go to that will make me a logo of some sort? Any ideas guys...
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What are a good 6.5 mid by SEAS and where can i purchase SEA's in general?
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I got a viper d1200.1 and i will be running 1 15" at 1ohm. would that be too much power? also if running at 1 ohm, should i build an amp rack with a fan? if the rack is nessicary, anyone know any sites with some plans, or some ideas on designs, etc. o yeah, i am putting this in a Saab 9000 hatchback.
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Well, a midst everything else that's going on around here, subwoofer enclosure, engine replacement, four wheeler repairs (minor), and WORK, the components in my wife's van have all but completely given up the ghost. I do have to say they hung in there for WAY longer than she, I or anyone else would have ever dreamed but everything wears out eventually. They've gotten to the point where they will cut out at high volumes for a short period of time then come back on and it's any combination of the drivers that do it. Just the one tweeter, or maybe both tweeters, or maybe both mids and the tweeters keep going, or sometimes it's a tweeter and a mid on one side or the other.…
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So I'm going to be in that area in 2-3 weeks - picking up a boat I purchased in Cottage Grove. Figure I would camp out in St. Cloud since it is north of Minneapolis, which means easy driving from there. Would love to hitch up with a few folks in the area. Might bring down a couple of goodies.. Best, Mark
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Well, I have had a lot of back and forth with Nick today but it worked out great. He has graciously agreed to donate 10 subs to the Audio Engineering Society at Michigan Technological University for use on a project of ours. We are trying to recreate the new Elemental Designs Dodecasub, but since we are using SI drivers I know it will sound much better . I just wanted to let you guys know that Nick is an awesome guy with awesome products,
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ok this is the deal im looking for 15" sub for a friend... he has a MTX1501 (1500w x 1 @ 2 ohm) so the sub has to be dvc 1 ohm or 4 ohm. the price is $350.00 for the sub and has to compare to say a 12a, 15 magnum, 15H2 ect ect something along those lines. at first i was going to get him a sx15 from RE because they said they can build it any ohm load id like, but with that much power im scared to blow the sub. i was told that they dont like that much power for daily just burps. this is going in a 98 accord with good size box tuned to hurt...lol if you need more info i can see about getting it jamie
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are the IXL's available in any other voice coil besides the dual 2ohm,maybe dual 4ohm?
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Current stuff is on the way out, heres what i have so far: Eclipse AVN 2210p double din cd/nav unit Alpine Type X SPX17-REF 6.5" components (07 model) DLS A5 amp (for sale, will be replaced with Arc KS900.6) Components will be bi-amped, channels 5&6 will be bridged at 1ohm for sub which should be ~550-600w. I'm leaning to a pair of new Assassin 10's ported in a console box but may get a pair of the 12's in a more conventional arrangement behind the seat. Truck is an 07 Ram reg cab so i have plenty of room, budget is $250.
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i got my si d2 saturday and put it in a 1 cubic foot box sealed and it just absolutly pounded. i then put it in a 3.0 cubic foot box tuned to 28 and it is just sick down low!!!! i have it on a bx1500d with wired to 1 ohm, (but a 60 amp fuse at the front) and trust me all i need is 1 12. i play alot of screwed up music that has a bass boost down low and man i rattles the whole car plus the house. I LOVE IT i may go inside the box and take out my last port wall to raise the tuning to 32-35 for a little more spl (like it isn't there)
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hey fellas, i recently bought a new car, a 1999 olds 88 ls. its a grandpa car, i know, but thats ok, cuz i like it. now i like keeping the stock look for now, and dont have a lot of time/money/energy to put into the stereo right now. the stock system is ok for now, but i would like to upgrade the speakers for a little more clarity, midbass, and maybe the ability to turn it up a little louder with a little less distortion (though i realize this is probably also because of the stock cd player.) im wanting just some low-mid level upgrades for front and rear speakers. front speakers will probably come first. first question, is this even going to be worth it, if im not add…
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I had a 12" Fi BTL off a 2500D Soundstream Rubicon in my previous car. It sounded great, but got used to that. Now looking to upgrade. Did a cardboard mock-up in my new car (2005 Civic) and trying to decide what subs to go with. I'm looking for a lot of air movement, hitting deep, and sounding clean. Was thinking 2 x Fi Q 15's. What do you think? Would like to keep total power of both subs combined under 2000RMS. Dimensions, minus the angle..Looks to be about 3.5cuft per sub after displacement. Quick question, when I move the port to the middle would I have 14" of length on each side or 7" on each side per sub? Layout will be like this, common chamber.
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The deal is anytime i listen to the music in my car at low volume my sub woofer will some times not play as loud as it should at the volume my head-unit is set at. but when i turn the volume on the head-unit up half way it will start playing like it should at that volume. head-unit - eclipse cd5030 amp - jl audio 300/2 v1 sub - sundown audio sa-10
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