Subwoofers / Speakers
Discuss Subwoofers And All Aspects Of Speakers here.
6,865 topics in this forum
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i found this design on the web, and i was wondering how good it is. i know absolutly nothing about these types of designs. i would like to learn how they work, so if someone could elaborate a little it would be great....at least if this design is anywhere near accurate...
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i read the sticky on this already, but can you use speaker wire instead? and how do you remove the push terminals and make the connection style of the pos and neg leads like the AQ or DD's?
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Go here, http://www.stereointegrity.com/order.html That pretty much explains it all.
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Mine sure does sound sweet powered by a aq750.
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Im reading everyone on here has their Mag d2 in a sealed box. Whats the deal? Are they a lot better in sealed vs. ported?
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which would you choose for a ported box? amp would be a US AMPS MD1D (1200w RMS @ 1 ohm).
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I have seen the Focal 165 VR3 set of 6.5s, 4s, tweets and wonder if they are good. I have heard by some that they are overrated. My local shop carries them so I know they will be bias. I can get the whole set for $320 with warr. They can go in a 91 Silverado ext cab powered by a sundown 125.2 and I think they would all fit. I havent cut the holes for the 6.5s in the doors yet but Ive heard its a very common custom install spot in that truck. What do you guys think of Focal?
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I am currently running 2 (400rms each) Sundown E-12s each in a 1.2 cubic foot ported box at 36hz. Powered by a Hifonics 1700.1 I recently found out that I could put a box in my back seat that will hold 2 15s. (R/T 300 series) thats 3.2 cubic feet per sub tuned at 32hz. Yes I understand 3.2 is just under the gross volume and does not account for the port. I also know it isn't the best box in the world but I can't afford much more right now and it is better than what I have. I have a convertible so I lose a lot of sound but I wanted to upgrade from the 12s to really just have more cone area and maybe a sub that will handle more power than the E series from sundown. I hav…
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I have a 99 mustang with a 12 D2. Right now it is in a prefab box that came out to 1.56 cubes before displacement. I am very happy with this setup but I think it could be better. I want increbible output with the best sound quality. Would it be advantagious to get a new box built even if I stayed sealed? I am worried that I box around 2.0 cf tuned to about 28 hz is going to be too big to fit in my tiny little mustang trunk. Should I stick with the box I have or would I benifit from a new box? Any thoughts or input is greatly appreciated. Thanks
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i have looked, but cannot find the DC build log with the four 10"s and three aero ports, and a viewing window, it had a custoum port plug in the center port, does any one know who this was? thanks chop
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alright, i am currently putting together a system in my 99' Mits galant. I am planning on hooking up 2 15" rl-ps hookeed up to a hifonics bx2200d (1800-1900rms). They will be in a sealed enclosure recieving around 1.7 cubes each. They are reccomended up to 2.5 i belive and was wondering what kind of difference i should expect by giving them less air. Of course polyfil will be used to compensate this. I have plenty room in my trunk its just that the opening is so damn awkward i cant fit anymore then this. I was originally oging to get a 15"XXX in a snailshell but could not fit the box, then i was going to get a 12"xxx in a snailshell but said screw ported 2 15" sealed woul…
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to make a long story short i've been bassless for the past week or so so it's forced me to pay close attention to my mids & tweets which today revieled a pleasant surprise remember no subs this is just door speakers I changed the balance on the HU to full left and i noticed the bass response was alot tighter then when i balanced out left and right the same happend when i put the balance to full right, the bass was much tighter then when the balance was even so i swapped the positive and negative speaker wire on the right channel of my amp and BOOM the bass was deep and clear even when the balance was even now i'm almost positive that i followed positive and negative …
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Im about to buy a pair of lanzar opti drive with the aluminium cone and silk dome tweeter, the power seems to be over rated 200rms/400watts but just want to know, have any one listened to it and can it beat focal polyglass v2?
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I just installed a set of image dynamics x69. I am running them full range right now with the high pass set at 60hz. The 3sixty.2 hasn't even been tuned yet. I am not even bridging the sax 50.4 yet. For some reason I am getting a scratching noise on some of the mid-high frequencies (ex:someone singing a higher octave). I was not playing these loud at all. In fact we were just testing them to make sure sound came out. Is this because the speaker was not meant to play higher frequencies? When I integrate my horn tweeters should I be fine or is there a possibility that something is wrong with either the install or the product itself? Any input would be great. Thanks!
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I've done about 4 different setups in my single cab Toyota pickup all involving normal subs behind the sea,t but fail in the size of box, ports, and overall SQ. So now Im taking my DD 1508s out and putting them in a different vehicle but want something for my single cab still. I've tried shallow mounts as well and wasn't that impressed with it so I am now leaning on something that's gonna make good bass in a sealed enclosure as small as possible. I haven't done much research on mid-bass subs or speakers and was hoping for somebody to point me in the right direction. There is no way I am going to try and do anything ported anymore...it just wont work, something as smal…
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Am currently looking at subwoofers to upgrade from my lowly Powerbass S-10D's. Have been running a Lightning Audio 1001.d monoblock @ 1 ohm for the last year, and every time I get it cranking, the amp shuts off after 10-15 minutes, blowing fuses. I am running a 250 amp alternator, and a brand new 1000ca/800cca battery, with 1/0 run back to my distribution block, and a 14" 4ga run to the amp, with the big 3 under the hood. Will be adding a second battery, under the hood, as there is a second battery tray. I really don't want to run much more power than what I already have, as I don't want to get into having to add a dual alternator, or putting another battery in the back. …
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low-hz absolutely refuse to ship anything to me (i`m in Norway as in Europe), and www.innovativerides.com links me right back to SI`s website. are you keeping these subs strictly whit in US borders or something? some military secrets or something you put in them maybe? but seriously. i want 2 new BM`s but don't know how to get`em. any help is welcome here.. thanks steve
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Hey guys, I am looking for a design for a 12 inch subwoofer box. The thing is that it has to be with kerfed port and flushed driver, 1.75 cub feet for a SA-12 tuned to 35hz. The closed thing I was able to find were these two but no kerfing and the second one is a bit bigger than needed(double baffle will be just redone as flush mount). Does anyone have any already made ones or can help with redoing these? If it was not a kerfed box I would just put another sheet on top for flush mount but it has to be on the inside and that will mess up the net volume. I am just new to all this... Thanks! http://www.soundsolu...all-ported.html http://www.soundsolu...all-ported.html
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i havent been able to find out a measurement on how deep a xcon 18 drops down into an enclosure. the enclosure would have the sub facing up, so i need to find out the length of the sub to help determine how tall the box would need to be. any help would be appreciated.
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I'm thinking about getting another 12" I currently have the Q in a sealed box and love the response and how quick it is to catch everything I throw at it; I have a sax-1200 running it. But I'm looking for something new and a little louder. Is it worth trying it in a ported box before I sell it or should I just jump to the RL-p is this sub any better? I keep hearing good things about it. I listen to a wide range of music depends on what im diggin at the moment. Owned a w7 before and old re se and some other not worth mentioning. So far Q has to be a favorite.
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Here is my current setup, Vehicle 05 TrailBlazer Speakers (2) Eric Stevens Full body horns Under the dash (2) Silverflute 6.5's Factory location Processing MiniDSP Amplifier USAcoustics Barbra Ann 100x4 at 4 ohms or 175x4 at 2 ohms. Currently I am very satisfied with the current sound and output however, soon I will be going from no subwoofers to four fifteens. I am worried I will not have enough output on the mid side since I am running a single mid in each door in the factory locations. At my disposal I have an extra pair of silver flutes sitting in my closet just as spares which could be added. My question for outputs sake would I be better off going with …
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im looking for a new sub ive narrowed it down to the Fi SSD 10 w/ copper coil and then AA Arsenal i just cant decide between the two... what im going for is clear and detailed daily driver that can play lows its going to be run on a zapco 500.1 the arsenal matches my power exactly, but i hear the ssd is detailed and can play the lows very well... i just dont know make up my mind for me i would like to have the sub ordered within the upcoming week thnx!
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okay, i know a lot* of people are talking about Resonant Engineering nowadays and i could honestly say that i believe the praise that they get. however, i like being different and i always try to find that 'sleeper' brand. i wanted to know how these 2 subs compare. i'd like the most SPL possible without sacrificing much SQ. Hitting the lows hard is a must too. I plan on running 800watts one of these, ported. Anybody got experiences with both? Im kinna torn between these 2 subs and i need something to stand out from the other. any help is greatly appreciated. thankss
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- 885 views
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