Subwoofers / Speakers

im running a rf power hx2 15 d2 on a saz1500 at 1ohm around 1000rms. ok im wondering cause this is my first sub that can handle some wattage and my first "real" amp. which it can kill this sub if i turned the amp up. if i happen to phuk up and kill it is it possible to get a custom recone for my hx2? cause ive searched alot to get one just in case. but i thought about it and if imma get one why not get one with a flatwound coil and stiffer suspension? who/where should i begin to go about getting this done? ****? thought id ask u guys b4 askin them a bunch of questions maybe someone knows a better place

Hey guys, I'm about to go off to college and I can no longer use my backseats for subs. I drive an F150 2001 4door supercrew and I'm looking for a sub that can go under my backseat. I'm just looking for a single 10" or 12". My amp is an alpine m500. any suggestions for the sub? As far as my budget goes id like to keep it under 300$ for the sub and box.

I have been accumulating equipment for a while. Originally I was going to be installing everything in my 96 Eldorado. Things change and now I'm finally making progress installing everything in my new ride. An 03 Lincoln town car. I've spent some time talking with BigJon here on the forum. He has large format teeters on his A pillars and Sundown neo 8's in his doors. I originally wanted 8's for the Cadillac, but they wouldn't work without modifying the door panels. So I bought Peerless Nomex 7" 830875 for my mids, and large format Scan-Speak Discovery D2608/9130 for my highs. Now I'm wondering if I should stick with the 7's or switch them out for 8's that I know will fit …

I smell it but my sub is still playing fine I'm just curious if it fucked my sub up at all? I got the cooling options on the btl so I should fine if I let it cool down for a few minutes?

Wow it's been such a long time since I was here.. Anyway, I had an account here called Pandy IIRC, but for some odd reason it seems to be gone.. Not a problem lol. I opened another Anyways, I bought an MJ 18 from Mark last October (right as my wife left me) and I have been adding stuff to the car since. Just thought I would stop in and say hi and say how the woofer gets better every week, Ill be back within a week or so with new pics of the car (I have spent the last few months customising it) and you wont recognise it ! Til then be safe ! Pandy

so, as the title states i am looking to put together my own set of components. i found this silver flute mid that looks like it has a great flat response in the vocal ranges. does anyone think this thing will perform as its specs show? seems to good to be true for somthing of this price.and it will be paired with a sb acoustics tweeter crossed over at 2500 hz.(second order crossover) https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=846

I have a Fi 15inch ssd d-2 on it's way. I have a sundown1200d, at 1ohm can i send 600watts to the sub?i have 4ga and a stock alt and battery.this is why i wana send unded 800watts.i had a audio q2.5 and at 580 watts iwas seeing volt drops at 12.9.

hello ssa just wanted to know if i strapped a rockford bd3000 on either a fi btl 15" or a DD 9515" in a good ported box to specs...which will produce more numbers? and also sound better doing it?

Pioneer 9900 headunit,sundown 100.4, peerless hds tweets, looking for a 7 inch mid that can run up to 1600. Would the sea nextels be my best bet? I may want more midbass if i could.

So i have 2 that say image dynamics and have the logo in the front but thats it. They look pretty old and work, kind of higher bass even in a ported box. Im comparing this to what i had in the exact same box RF Hx2 15. My question is, what are these subs? Has anyone heard of them or maybe they are fakes?

New here and looking for opinoins. I was running 2 ME12's sealed at 1.25 on a saz-1500d in my extended cab Dakota, I'm now driving a GTI and plan to make some upgrades. I'm looking for more low end output, not nesicerially more output over all. I need to stay in the 4cf net area with good SQ, why I typically run sealed. So I'm looking at cone area. 2 15's are the winner in cone area by about 1 10's worth of cone, on the other hand I can get a real good deal on the 4 10's, about $200 less and have the same if not more power handling ability if I need it. So is that extra cone area gonna just kill the 10's? I can be about .8cf over the recomended size on hte 10's but righ…

I'm looking into a 10 or 12" sub and I'm tryin to find a choice from the Fi/AA lineup. I want to run it sealed. I'm looking for great SQ with a good amount of output. I have UP TO 1500 watts available, but i can go as low as 300 watts. The Arsenal seems to be the one to look at from AA's lineup without breaking the bank. The Havoc seems to be a bit too much SPL oriented i think? From Fi's lineup, I'm strictly looking at the Q. So how does Arsenal compare with the Q. Is SQ the same with a little less output, or does the Q have better SQ? Thanks for the help.

Hello, I have a 2013 Chrysler 200, and the upgraded 3.5" Kicker coaxial speakers I have in the dash leave a LOT to be desired. I've installed car audio components in my previous cars, but I have never really been successful in achieving a desirable setup; most likely because of my lack of expertise in car audio installation. Hopefully this time I can do a better job, but in all honesty I will not have the capabilities that I see some people have (yeah, I can't custom mount a midbass driver in the kickpanel... lol). I'm most likely looking at a 6.5" component set, and mounting the 1" tweeter in the factory dash location. It will be easy to have the tweeter aiming str…

Hey, I was wondering if someone can tell me how to wire up 3 12'' D2's. What ohm will it be pushing at. I currently have a Kicker ZX2500.1 thats pushing 2 Icons. I plan on buying another Icon. My brother & I will be building a fiberglass box for my car. I was wondering if you guys can chime in and give some advices. This is my first box build. My brother done this 3 times. Thanks for your guys time and help.

HI, Here is my first post ! I was wondering what is the best SPL 10" Subwoofer I can get for this sealed enclosure. For only 1 10" I will be using an Mtx 7804 Mono Amplifier prob around 400-1000rms A list of sub RL-i10, 10w6, Re Se-10, Alpine type R 10" , Ground Zero 10" CZUW10 , JBL P1024, KICKER S10L7 Specs of Enclosure Mounting depth - 6 3/16 in. (based on 6" magnet) Mounting diameter - 9 1/8 in. Total volume - .7 cu. ft. Chambers - 1 (mono) Width - 37 1/2 in. Height - 12 1/8 in. Bottom depth - 10 1/8 in. Top Depth - 5 in. Construction - American MDF MDF thickness - 3/4 in. Weight - 22 lbs. 1 oz. Finish - Carpet Quality - High (automotive) Color - Charcoal Sealant - H…

Reconing in older icon with a new icon recone. I'm seeing some slight differences tinsel leads. Spider. Spacer between magnet and motor. The spider Landing.. http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg580/jjzickowski1/recone/20170621_175141_zpsqmxrjuai.jpg][/URL] }[/img]

Ok so I checked my ohm load to see if it was really at 1 ohm. My DMM reads 3.1-3 ohms, so I pulled the subs out and tried from the connection. I got 1.5 on one side and 1.5 on the other, with out the jumper. They are 2ohm dvc. So why am I not getting them wired down to 1ohm when I put the jumper on from - to + as it should be? Some one plaese explain this to me. I mean I get that 1.5+1.5 = 3 but shouldn't I get .5+.5=1ohm? Then if it run it like if it was at a half ohm. It reads .8-1.0 ohms thats - jmped to - and + jumped to + Are the dual 4ohm subs? Even though the guy that sold them to me said dual 2? Oh and they BOTH do the same thing

A friend of mine has a 700 watt JBL amp and wants a pair of 12s that'll hit hard and sound good sealed. These are the subs we're trying to choose between. Which would you choose out of these? 2 SI BM 12s sealed 2 JL Audio W3v3 12s sealed 2 Treo TSX 12s sealed 2 RE SR 12s sealed 2 Audiopulse EPIC 12s sealed

how many of you guys actually give your components there suggested rms or under? and how many of you over power them? i was thinking around another 50 watts over suggested rms wouldnt kill them would it?

Hey guys, I was wondering if someone could take the time to "school" me on front stages, running three way set up, passive, active, setting the filters and gains of a front stage amp and other useful information that would help me in this hobby. -- Thanks Dom

Hello all my daily ride is a mercedes clk 230 Kompressor and my setup is two jl audio 12w6v2 sealed off a jl audio 1000/1.... very good SQ and output level not bad but............. i want morrrrrrrrrrreeeeeee So i'm interrested by Fi audio ! i can make a box of 3.5 cu ft maximum (volume net) a Fi Bl15 ported in a 3 cu ft tune to 32-34hz seem to be a good thing!! the 15" will be powered by my 1000/1 (1100-1200wrms) i think upgrade my amp soon and take a 2000wrms good choice? Damien

Anybody have an idea how the 12" icon will sound for rock in and enclosure tuned this high or have any suggestions for an enclosure/tunning made for rock/metal. I read this woofer gets real low but was wondering if i could build another enclosure to swap out just for rock and metal.

What sub gives you the best bang for your buck for daily driving.

okay so i have 1 set of components right now and it was reading 4ohms at the amp i got another set and was short of wires right now so i just jumped off the first 2 figuring i would just run 2ohms untill i get more wire in so thats 2 6.5s and 2tweets and now at the amp i am STILL reading 4ohms i poped doors back apart aech driver is reading 2ohms on driver side they are in series running to passive crossovers but when i check input side of the crossover it reads 4ohms no matter how many speakers i put to it i even tried running all 4 to 1 channel and i still get 4ohms could the crossover have a way to change the load like this?

i havent seen this vid on here yet.so if it is and i didnt catch it sorry but if not its a kool lil vid of the spl sub in action 2aO2Z-DP6qQ