Subwoofers / Speakers

looking at either 2 BM 10's ported or 1 Mag 12 sealed, i figure price will be about the same and box size shouldn't be huge issue. which would be a more efficient use of the power available?

Just thinking about putting 4 of these in my daily driver on a SA-3000d. Wondering what you guys thought of these subs since i have never had any dealings with RE before.

Hey I'm buying some components and i have a guy trying to sell me a pair that he said were amazing but i've never heard of and can't find anything about. I was looking at a pair of crystals but if anyone knows if these are better ill probably just get them http://www.macrom.it/EN/speakers/m2/m2s.61_377.htm

I know the website recommends box specs at 2 cubes net tuned to 32. However, I think that the literature I received with the sub said 2.3 cubes net tuned at 30. I am sure that either will work. This will be my first ported box (don't worry, I am not building it myself) and I admittedly don't know any more than what I have read. Anyway, my question is, which way should I go with this -- 32 or 30? If it helps, I am more into sq than spl. (And would it even make that much of a difference?)

is it getting closer to the time?? just checking to see if there has been any recent development. getting anxious but patient. Also any box recommendations yet for this killa. thanks

I know I know... This is the 2nd time i've asked this question, but noone seems to read old forums so I figured i'd ask again and see if anyone can help me out.... So has Anyone ever heard the Diamond Audio D3 12's? i'm switching from 3 memphis power reference 12's in a ported box (40 htz) in an extended cab truck to 2 D3 12's in a ported box (34) in a trunk of a grand prix... can anyone give me a heads up as to the loudness difference btw the 2? i'm hoping to get at least just as much sound out of the d3's as the pr's...

Was told it's a 12" fi q , theres no Markings or ids. I just wanna make sure it's a q so I can build the right box and send the right power with a jl 1000/1 https://i.imgur.com/5XhcaRe.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8gjemrn.jpg https://i.imgur.com/L0Q6fDQ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/KGI9M2a.jpg https://i.imgur.com/bCRC6Mf.jpg

i want some new door speakers and am thinking about some components but i look at the price of some and say why am i paying that much for nothing.. someone pleez explain this

I've been looking to upgrade to either 2 12 SA's or 2 Lethal Injections. Ill be powering either set with a Sundown Sae 1200 v2 and will build an enclosure to specifications. I know it'll probably just come down to brand preference since both are quality subwoofers. So basically I'd just like to hear other peoples input because I havent heard any sundown or ia subs. Thanks in advance, looking forward to trying something new.

I am new to the forum. I am looking at the 12"Magnum. Currently I have a PG t1200.1 and a t500.2 for my front stage. I am considering downgrading to a second 500.2. Would the Magnum do well with only 500 or so watts? Or should I just keep the big amp. I don't really need tons of output, just loud good sounding music. Also, what would the best cu ft be for a box for a single 12" Magnum? I have done some searching but didn't really find an exact answer. Anyway, any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim

I have a collection of some older subs and some newer subs. All are working. I can use series/parallel wiring to obtain pretty much any total load I want. Is there a way to check to see if any individual sub is less output than the rest?

I drive an Eddie Bauer Explorer and just recently added a 12" Icon and Sundown 1000D to it. It had the Mach Audio system in it already. Well with the added bass, the speakers just can't keep up. They were fine with the factory 8" sub but are too weak now. Here's the thing, since it had the premium sound, I can fit 6x8s in my front and rear doors. I listen to mostly metal and rock with a little bit of rap. I'd say like 80/20 rock vs rap. Should I put 6x8s in the doors for extra midbass or should I just use 6.5s? Also, Ill be staying passive on these as SQ isnt a huge priority. Just trying to get more volume on the treble side.

I have been reading and I haven't found a post that is exactly what I'm looking for. I have just been introduced to all these different sub woofer lines that I have never heard or seen before. And I need some opinions from people who have had experience with any woofers. I'm looking for a single setup with no more than 1500 watts. I wont say that I want sound quality since everyone has a their own definition of quality. I am looking for a very deep bass. The kind that you feel. I don't like punchy bass. Very smooth transient response is what I look for the most. And most important is a very crisp sound. I don't know if any of these wants can all be achieved at the same ti…

I'm looking for 8" drivers since the E8a's seem to be all gone What are the SI8's? any links? Thanks ahead of time Erik

I haven't decided between a 12" and a 15" sub. The old phrase "there's no replacement for displacement" keeps coming into my head when I think of getting a twelve. Right now I have a 15" sub, but I think I'd like to save some space. Obviously bigger subs will go down lower and be audible, but in the 30is-100+hz range. Do 15" subs have any advantage over 12" subs. I'd like to find a sub in the ~$200 range give or take. Would you mind recommending me sub for each size or just one. I'd like to know what I'm giving up and gaining by going 12. Obviously I'm gaining space, and giving up some lowend, but will the size affect the musical range? I'm not looking to burp this setup.

i called american bass and they said to run it in a 1.25 cubic feet box with ported to like 37 hertz does that sound right to anyone ?

Actually 2 sets. Budget approx $400 for both sets. They'll both be powered off a Sundown sax100.4...the front set getting full power. The rear set will be set low, so power handling isn't an issue there. They don't need to match, but the front set needs to be loud. They need to be able to handle the sine sweeps of bass music. I burnt out a couple sets of tweets with bass music. Apparantly, I need some components that are tougher than infinity reference's. What would you recommend? Should I get $100 rears and $300 fronts? or two sets of $200 for front and back? Should I buy a low end set of Rainbows or CDT's...or a higherend set of Kickers or Alpines?

I'm buying a new set of components in the next few weeks and was wondering if any one has used a set of Rockford Fosgate Power T1652-S. I've read some pretty good things about them. If any one has expererience with them let me know how the bass, clearity, over all durability of the speakers. thanks

So a buddy of mine gave me his 2 L7's and an amp (that shall not be named as I fear I would be stoned to death). He told me the l7's didn't work but I took them anyways. You can see where there was a little melting going on. For the first sub I tested each voice coil and only one coil worked. The coil that didn't work is pictured above I haven't tested the second sub but the only thing noticably wrong is one of the wires is disconnected on the positive voice coil, which I will solder(sp?) back together. Both the subs move freely by hand and I really don't see anything visibly wrong (except for what is mentioned above). I have never owned a sub so I really don't know wha…

Ok guys, I am ordering subs this week. I still am not sure on which ones or one. No more than $330. Looking at 2 12s, 1 12, or 1 15 in a 06 mustang trunk. Would like to go ported. Audioque, Fi, every brand possible I have looked at and still cant decide. Anyone want to help please. I really need it. Thanks guys. Powering off a Kenwood X1R.

ok so ive came across a MMats juggernaut motor, i know they were more of a back in the day sub, but is it still worth buying and reconing? and what does it even compare to anymore

i have some dayton rs180's ( 7 in.) that i recently purchased. my car takes 6x8's up front and 6x9's in the rear. other then using a piece of wood to mount the speakers what other method could i use that will give me some clearance and also allow me to install the speakers so that they do not come in direct contact with the door. i have heard of adapters but i do not know if they will help me in my case. these are the speakers specs: Specifications: *Power handling: 60 watts RMS/90 watts max *VCdia: 1.5" *Le: .90 mH *Znom: 8 ohms *Re: 6.4 ohms *Frequency range: 40-2,200 Hz *Fs: 38 Hz *SPL: 87.6 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: .88 cu. ft. *Qms: 2.00 *Qes: .47 *Qts: .38 *Xmax: 6 mm *Dime…

Not my install. I finally made my decision. Stopped draggin' my feet and sent Nick some money. I have a Magnum and a set of 302's on their way soon. I must say that Nick is very patient and awesome to deal with. Of course you guys know this already. Now I just need to get the Magnum hooked up to my PG t1200.1 and the 302's hooked to my PG t500.2. Hopefully this will be a system that I can live with for a long time. Done playing the what do I want in there today game, if you know what I mean.

i hate to sound like a major noob but everyone knows how mainstream subs suck ass compared to the i guess u could say "underground" brands like fi. i was wondering when it comes to perfect door speaker quality...whats some kickass midrange speaks?

I don't really have to much time to build another box right now so I have two options. 1.95 cubic feet after displacement tuned to 30hz or 1.88 cubic feet after displacement tuned to 32hz. Single 12 with an alpine mrp650 on it.