Subwoofers / Speakers

just wondering if I am running 75 watts to a set of components, can I run speaker wire from the amp to the factory wiring or do I need to run wire all the way to the comps, not sure on the exact gauge, but its just whatever honda runs to their speakers, probably 18 ga at best? what size speaker wire do I need to run to them if I run the full length? 14?

I've never installed anything other than coaxials in the rear deck of a car... However with my new setup, I'm thinkin of going with 4 Mach 5 MLi-65s. theres going to be tweeters and x-overs aswell. I'm going to be putting one in each factory location. the other two will either go in the pillars, in the dash, or somewhere behind me ( reg cab truck, isn't a rear "stage" useless?) I'm wondering how to wire it up. just been looking at amps online and I'm wondering how it all connects. I have a Pioneer DEH-4900IB for a headunit, and won't be running active.... just a two way component set.

I am looking to run double midbasses along with a midrange and tweeter in each door. They are Hertz HSK 165 components, HL 70 mids, and these crossovers: http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_3W20.pdf All of the speakers are 4 ohm versions. (Picture of this type of setup is also on the link) Could you tell me what they would be running at? I figured it was they would be running at 4 ohm per side when wired up, but got confused when looking at a bunch of different charts. I am looking to run this type of frontstage off of one of the new Zed Audio amps. I was originally going with the six channel and trying to figure a way to go active if needed, but I was thinking …

I don't know what to choose for my 07 yaris sedan soundstream LOS 6.5 component $235 Soundstream Xtream Component $188 Focal Access 1 component $224 Focal Polyglass Coax $217 if i go for focal should i go for the acess component or the polyglass coax because these two have the same price. Anyone heard the soundstream before?

ok i curently have a set of rsd65cs installed. im getting rdy to install new door panels and i dont want to cut holes for tweets. do you think installing coax in all factory locations would sound better then my current comps? was going to go to front 3 1/2 kappa 32.7's in the dash kappa 652.7i in the doors ran in parallel and kappa 692.7i in the rear. was thinking of getting a sd 100.4 or dc 120.4

while still waitin on this sub, can i get some recommendations to the best speakers out there, Money is not an issue because i will be doing research ontop of what i hear from the posts. Thanks FoR all those Who Help!

I'm going to replace the speakers in my 98 blazer. Would it be worth it to put components in the back or just have components in the front and coaxials in the back? i plan on my this amp http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-+Power+Pack+180W+Class+D+Bridgeable+Multichannel+Amplifier+with+High-Pass+Filter/4769803.p?id=1218524495173&skuId=4769803 and these are the components i want to buy http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34373_Alpine-SPS-610C.html If its not worth i plan to buy alpine type s coaxials

Ok, im looking to buy some comps for my car The subs stage is a 15" fully loaded BTL and Hifonics 2600 amp The car is a 2000 Hyundai Sonata 6.5" speakers. Im thinking of doing some of the alpine type Rs in the front and keep the rears stock for a while, so what i think. when i had my 2 15" alpine type r subs, i was fine with my stock speakers, is that weird? lol

I just picked up a 04 crossfire, and have setteled for two tens. I found a box that is .42 x 2, that will face the rear. I haven't went speaker shopping since the mid 90's. I'm used to two 12 inch hollywoods, in a small box for mustangs, with a bazooka 700w amp. almost enough to vibrate your eyes. With a budget in mind, what should I look into? brands, versions, amp???? any suggestions, thanks chris

ok, so yesterday, i took out my cheapo 3.5" dash speakers and taped off the ends of the wires with electrical tape. now, my right door speaker is very quiet, pretty much not even working, and when i turn up my stereo, the music cuts out in my front speakers. is this a short? i assume it is but just checking i guess.

So I finally installed my cheap Rockford components (well tried too) and they don't fit. Every place on line says that my jimmy has 6.5s but these are just barely too big. So since I already have them do i need to buy different speaker housing or can i just cut out a circle of wood, glue it to the housing and then screw the speaker to that?

I am driving a 2006 Dodge quad cab pick up and need suggestions on speakers. The head unit will be an Alpine 138bt and I just bought a Zed Leviaten. I am waiting on a Fox acoustics 12" sealed box with probably a PowerBass 2X subwoofer going in. The truck currently has Polk Momo 6.5(rear) and 6x9(front) in the doors. I like listening to Rock, slow jazz and acoustical music. I'm looking for some tips as to whether I should keep the Polk, run the sub off the Zed or get another amp for the sub. I would like to hear clarity as much as possible. There are also two tweeters in the dash that I don't know what they are.(installer threw them in for me.) Would the recomendation be a…

Which 6.5" speakers put out the best all around sound from 150w max to each speaker. I'll probably only be using two speakers in pvc wakeboard style enclosures. It would be nice to have a little bass as well as decent highs and mids.

Hi guys, I'm looking for a system for my X1. There's not much room in the doors, I can only fit a 4" mid, not too deep though. Some companies have direct fit in speakers for that car. I'm thinking about a Focal set (ES 100 K). Buuut I would love to keep my SSA Evil1 tweeters. What 4" mids would you use ? I will use an Incriminator 3.4 amp and 2 Gcons10" on 2K watts.

If I put a 6.5 rms 100 watts and a 3.5 at 45 watts on the same channel would the wattage add together or would I over power the the 3.5 trying to power the 6.5. The 3.5 are for location. And they are both 4 ohm loads.

ok, so im going to need new speakers... if i have $250 right now, what do i do? i want to upgrade the fronts first, but i need to do the rears, then amp them... i dont like the idea of no rears and what speakers for rear? 6x9s http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc...p;idproduct=236 for front, what for rear to match? and then amp?

I'm running out of thread titles.. I'm going to be getting two Mach 5 IXL-12s, and a Orion 2500D to power the two. My truck(see sig) right now, has no head unit and it has one factory speaker that works if I remeber right. I got a replacement headunit, but.. no speakers/component setup/whatever else I can do. What should I do? should I go with 3 way speakers or whatever they are, or go with a component setup? I don't have a lot of cash on tap.. I gotta finish a motor when it arrives, and gotta pay Mark @ Mach 5 when the money transfers to my paypal. Should I worry about a rear stage? I put some older Pioneer subs, Kenwood KAC8103D, and a Kenwood KDC-205 in a sunfire, an…

I just ordered to Fi Q 15 subs and a AQ2200D amp. I currently have some Best Buy pioneer speakers in my truck and would like to know what i should up-grade to for better sound quality at high bass volumes. I am putting this setup in an ext. cab dodge dakota, so i will have to get 2 pair of these speakers or component system. I am will to spend up to about the $200 range. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for your input.

Before I yank my existing Celestion AD15H's, I'm going to try and change the porting, see if it cleans up the sound a bit. I think I'm getting excessive port turbulence, want to increase the diameter of the port to 4" from the existing 3". The specs for the AD15H's: Size : 15" Mag dia: 8.5" Mag Structure wt: 367oz Mag wt: 126oz Voice Coil: 4" dia Former: Kapton Coil winding length: .63" Magnet gap depth: .374" Coil: Copper Coil Section: Round Overall depth: 6.7" Weight: 28.48lbs Freq resp: 30-1K Max X-over Freq: 500Hz Sens (1W@1m): 96 Power handling: 1200 peak, 600 cont Nom Imp: 4 ohms Resonance (fs): 29Hz Resistance (Re): 2.8 ohms Piston dia (d): 12.99" Piston area (Sd):…

Can anyone tell me what's so special about the 9500 series and below? Why is the 3515 series map $500? The AQ HDC3 is way less, the Fi BL is way less, Hell the BTL N2 is less as well. Please, I feel really retarded that I don't hang from DD's nuts since their products are so superior. Please tell me why I should get a DD3500 series sub and pay $500 map pricing or tell me what I am not understanding. I posted here to get non-nuthuggery answers.

I really am interested in buying some maw15's but I would need them to be dual 2's or single 4 ohm. Would this be a possibility?

should i use special speaker wire from my amp to the woofer? what gauge should i use?

How can I repair my IDQ 15V1 if the spider partially detached from the landing? Is it time for a recone? Or can I patch it?

I am just curious as to what would be considered a high spl number on the metwe for a sub woofer set up?

Ok, Here is an easy once. I am looking for a few good 10's that are dual 2 ohm that take will take some power (2500 watts piece) for burps. I had my heart set on the RE MT's since they were at a good price but after thinking about it I am not so sure I want 110 pounds in subs in my trunk. With the box that is roughly 150 pounds in my little Saturn trunk. Hmmm, there has to be something that can get me loud with a little less weight. Here is what I am looking at so far. Mind you these are just for burps, no daily driving with these bad boys. Oh yeah, this is for IASCA Stock 0-160 so it really does need to be 10's. Precision Power DCX 102 Kove ZM 10d_2 JBL PRO P1020 Adire A…