Subwoofers / Speakers

hi, i am helping a freind install re audio xxx comps and i took off the tag that said if the red or the blue was the postive and i am wondering if anyone can tell me how to figure out which is which and or if someone has a set that might know.

Nope.

Ive been told through another post I need to stick to Atomics enclosure reccommendation to get the most out of my APX 18 the enclosure info says sub and port displacement is already figured in their equation which is APX18-ported 6.0ft3 (40six10”long) ( 32Hz)=5000w (SB) So do I figure 6 cubes as if it was sealed then do the port to fit their req.? and I dont know how to read thier port rec. I see a 10" long port, 6" wide, but whats the 40. or is it 6" in height? Please help so I can get this box built! Or if someone wants to give me an easy out and tell me exact outside measurements (.75 MDF.) I have up to 50" in width, 25" in height and 19" depth. Thanks guys!!!

about a yr ago I bought a couple of used 9500's with the full composite cone. I finally have gotten around too testing one, and I am impressed with the amount of effeiciency, considering how much power one is known to handle. what I am wondering is, if I were to recone them with DD pulp cones would that help warm up the tone a bit? when listening too rap or anything with mostly sinewaves they sound fine. when listening too metal, rock, or classical they sound almost lifeless. so if anyone has had a chance to test them with both cone materials please chime in

ok i have an older model mj 18 and was wondering what kind of bass response i would get if i ported it in like 3-4 cubes??

So my buddy had his system stolen and he gave me 2 recone kits for some 15" orion hcca d4 subs...since i got them for free i was wondering if there was a custom basket and motor i could use? Or what basket and motor would fit? Please help cuz i know these recone kits run around $150 so its a lucky break on my side

Hello all i have ever post a similar topic on FI forum... i have two jl audio 12w6v2 sealed (1.25cu each) off a jl audio 1000/1 (1000wrms) on my mercedes clk... SQ is very amazing..... but i want LSQ ..... more db with same SQ i have ordered my new amp : a rockford fosgate T20001BD .... 2600wrms/ 1 ohm but now i must buy my subs... i want to use sealed enclosure and i haven't a big trunk... i can do a 3 cu ft sealed box... (or use my actual box 1.25cu each 12" after diplacement) so could you purpose me a couple of 12" that will be a good combo for LSQ with my new rf t20001bd ? i love to feel the bass kicking at this time i think for a couple of Q12 ... all your an…

AH, my sole is a rest now. My new baby! Now if anyone has a BLACK A404 or 400X and an A1200, let me know! Question is, use this for sub or midbass duty?

I was wondering what the pros and cons were to having subs face each other? ie would they pressurize the air better? (since both subs are compacting air on a certain point) To answer this consider same number of woofers, and for enclosure type consider straight wall compared to clamshell. thank you in advance for any insight.

between these three subs..... 1) sid2 12" 2) re sx12" 3 re xxx12" the sub i chose will be pushed by a hifonics bx1500d @ 1 ohm(whooohooo 1500wrms!!) and put into a ported enclosure( recommmended by the manufactor, of course) in the trunk of my wife's grand prix. i am looking for loud and clean and a price in the $300-$350 range. since this is the wife's car, i want to try something different, ie..no JL, rf,treo,memphis,eclipse,clarion,diamond or anything i can get from local dealers. so..any other suggestions? i will be buying in the next week or so! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i have a ab400.1 and i have dd1008a and a dd1510 that im going to recone to 15's.im going to pick up 2 more dd 1515's soon.i was wondering if my ab 400.1 is to much power for 4 dd 1515s4? im going to use this setup for daily use and comp use. this setup will be going in a 1991 ford explorer.

I dont know how comparable these drivers are but if you had the choice what would you pick and why. What is the SQ like, how loud, how low all of those good things. It would be on 1000RMS.

hey guys, i was wanting to install my jl speakers buttt i had a question i know u guys can help me out with. my stock speaker size is 6x8 in front and back. up front, i have the jl 6.5s and im doing tweeters up in the pillar up front. then in back is where my problem begins, the speakers are 6x9s and the hole is for a 6x8 so how much if any will i have to cut out to make them fit?

From the DC specs page i noticed that the BL for a level 3 15" is 22.18 TM and the BL for the Level 4 15" is 16.15 TM.. now from the specs, the level 3 has 17.5lbs of magnet, vs the level 4's 28.5lbs.. from my understanding, BL stands for magnetic strength.. how come the sub with less magnet material has a higher BL??

Haven't been around in awhile just though i would throw my new vid up and let yall check it out. Its the same system but i got a yellow top up front now. Im getting a HD video camera for christmas so ill have better ones up soon. Systems in the sig.

to make a long story short i've been bassless for the past week or so so it's forced me to pay close attention to my mids & tweets which today revieled a pleasant surprise remember no subs this is just door speakers I changed the balance on the HU to full left and i noticed the bass response was alot tighter then when i balanced out left and right the same happend when i put the balance to full right, the bass was much tighter then when the balance was even so i swapped the positive and negative speaker wire on the right channel of my amp and BOOM the bass was deep and clear even when the balance was even now i'm almost positive that i followed positive and negative …

I just saw the Scion XB commercial that shows what looks like lower end Lightning Audio subs attempting to "throw down." What's the deal with commercials and TV shows trying to demonstrate subs "tumping" ... and it's always less-than impressive? If they had a new or old Mag in place they'd have themselves a much better commercial IMO.

well i am planning on building 6 of these, i have all parts on hand, so i decided to build one, and measure it before i proceed. they will be tc2+ motors, with 6" spiders, a reproduction of the original tc1000 coil, sa8 cones, and baskets. the leads were stitched by me. the first parameters were with the coils paralleled R(e) = 1.005 ohms Fs = 38.36 hz Qts = .356 Qes = .376 Qms = 6.706 Le = .732mh mms = 112.6grams vas = .1479cu. ft. spl = 79.88 these were in series Re = 3.95 fs = 37.68hz Qts = .331 Qes = .351 Qms = 5.882 Le = 2.874mh Mms = 121.5 grams Vas = .1422cu. ft. in case any of you are used too see vas in liters those are both just a tad under 4liters. now i …

i have a dilema. i have a zx2500.1 now. i am gonna purchase 2 15.2 orion hcca's next week. but since some faggy ass mofos done stripped my other car i think i wanna put more money into this setup. i have a 6cub ft box @ 35hz for these subs. i am contemplating buying another zx2500.1 to run one amp per sub. i am prepared and fully aware of the elec upgrades need to be successful. so with all this being said what would be a realistic difference in the 2 setups. 2 hcca's wit 1 amp or 2 hcca's wit 2 amps. obviously this is a problem cause i need to buy the subs according to the ohm load they will be run at. my goal is to have loud and deep clear bass. i want some movement(fl…

I was at a car comp at Michigan Tech today, took 1st place in Street B with a 143.6 on the TL playing Outkast - Speakerboxx. I also took first in amateur SQ.

So, I recently bought a 98 ford ranger, and the space is ridiculous. Tiniest truck ever, but I love it. Right now, I'm running a old beat up 12" audiobahn, which I hate. I've been looking at subs that will fit, and the audiobahn in the box is slightly pushing it. It has a mounting depth of about 5 1/2", and I know the 187 is around that, so it seems like a good sub while saving space. Now, I can find reviews on the 12's, and 15's, but has anyone had personal experience with the 10"? It's either that, or I pick up a pair of tang band 8" subs, or maybe even one of their shallow mount 10's. I've always wanted to test out tangband and incriminator audio alike. So, my goals a…

Going in a 99 Yukon Denali...more of a musical setup. Ive only built one box prior to this one and wanna do this one right....any input would be appreciated! Max dimensions are 48" from back seat to back doors and 48" wide between wheel wells Window level is 20" Backseats are 22" I was shooting for something thats not too crazy high above my window line but I'm open for any and all enclosure designs here.

u can get one new for like 294 am i right? and i dont knwo about that wear on the surrounding..lol http://cgi.ebay.com/Fi-Bl-18-inch-subwoofe...%3A1|240%3A1318 thanks

I'm wanting to sale a sub I have laying around on Craigslist. I'm not the kind of person to screw someone over so while getting more pics a put the DMM on the coils.. That's one coil. Kinda strange on the other. First test it read 2.5 then after disconnecting the probes and I pushed on the cone. Reconnected at it shows 3.5. Not sure how to understand what's going on. My main concern is trying to sell a f'd up sub to someone. When I had it connected last it sounded decent. Didn't appear to be functioning improperly. No scraping or anything. Help me understand.

Ok what's the deal with separate chambers for running more than one sub? How crucial is it really? I really want to end up with 2 15's in my Toyota Yaris sedan. Biggest box I can get in there is 32w x 16h x 26d (outside dim.). If the subs are exactly the same and amps are gain matched it shouldn't be that bad right? I know it's not ideal, but I really want the 2 15's.