Subwoofers / Speakers

u can get one new for like 294 am i right? and i dont knwo about that wear on the surrounding..lol http://cgi.ebay.com/Fi-Bl-18-inch-subwoofe...%3A1|240%3A1318 thanks

So my buddy had his system stolen and he gave me 2 recone kits for some 15" orion hcca d4 subs...since i got them for free i was wondering if there was a custom basket and motor i could use? Or what basket and motor would fit? Please help cuz i know these recone kits run around $150 so its a lucky break on my side

i was just looking for a price for the DC lvl 4XL woofers, i tried calling and i just got an answering machine thank you.

i have a ab400.1 and i have dd1008a and a dd1510 that im going to recone to 15's.im going to pick up 2 more dd 1515's soon.i was wondering if my ab 400.1 is to much power for 4 dd 1515s4? im going to use this setup for daily use and comp use. this setup will be going in a 1991 ford explorer.

well i am planning on building 6 of these, i have all parts on hand, so i decided to build one, and measure it before i proceed. they will be tc2+ motors, with 6" spiders, a reproduction of the original tc1000 coil, sa8 cones, and baskets. the leads were stitched by me. the first parameters were with the coils paralleled R(e) = 1.005 ohms Fs = 38.36 hz Qts = .356 Qes = .376 Qms = 6.706 Le = .732mh mms = 112.6grams vas = .1479cu. ft. spl = 79.88 these were in series Re = 3.95 fs = 37.68hz Qts = .331 Qes = .351 Qms = 5.882 Le = 2.874mh Mms = 121.5 grams Vas = .1422cu. ft. in case any of you are used too see vas in liters those are both just a tad under 4liters. now i …

I'm looking at the RE SR subs for 600 watts and I may run a pair of the 10s. However I saw that the 12s only require 1.5 subs per sub tuned to 35 hz. Does that sound right? If it is correct what type of sound would that produce? Would it have good SQ and get loud?

Can I get any information on picking up DC sound as a line in my shop? pm me please or post here.

So, is diffraction an issue in car audio as well? I'm thinking both of front systems and sub boxes in particular.

Ok I bought an rd sonance last year for my girls car. I didn't install it for 3 4 weeks after recieving it. After maybe a week of playtime it started cutting out and if I pushed on the cone it'd start back up so I figured it was a bad tinsel lead. Then one side of the coil died off completely so I ran it on one coil for awhile and it was fine until we decided to introduce it to a wall socket lol. Now I have a rd super paper weight lol.. Is it worth a recone or should I just sell the motor n basket if possible?

Ok here is my dillema I now have an old loaded btl 18 an lookin to get louder so, I'm thinkin of sellin this woofer an box and getting a new sub or set of subs an box what would you guys suggest. I have a saz3000d pushin it an it get pretty loud i hit a 147.1 at meca but want to break the 150 mark any input will be appreciated. I'm lookin at the dp 21 or a set of sundown 15 nightshades but willin to look at any brands just want to get louder.

Would you recommend running RL-p's as spl subs?? I have two 15"s in a ported box W/ 2.5cu., and 900w rms each. The box is ported to 32hz. I was told that would be best for an LSQ set up. I was just wondering about going from LSQ to SPL.

Hello i am in the market for front stage, ive been drooling over CDT for years and finally wanna make the leap and buy some, please give your opinions, ill be using (2) sa-8's.....would you rcommend a 3 way CDT set consisting of a 6.5" / 4" / 1" on a sundown 125.2, or would you recommend i do a 2 way set which would be a 4" / 1", and a separate strong CDT 6.5" midbass, >>>point being do you think ill realy need a strong 6.5" midbass with only 8" subwoofers, or a 3 way comp set with slightly less power would be sufficient?

Going in a 99 Yukon Denali...more of a musical setup. Ive only built one box prior to this one and wanna do this one right....any input would be appreciated! Max dimensions are 48" from back seat to back doors and 48" wide between wheel wells Window level is 20" Backseats are 22" I was shooting for something thats not too crazy high above my window line but I'm open for any and all enclosure designs here.

anyone ever use this sub? how did it perform?

I'm wanting to sale a sub I have laying around on Craigslist. I'm not the kind of person to screw someone over so while getting more pics a put the DMM on the coils.. That's one coil. Kinda strange on the other. First test it read 2.5 then after disconnecting the probes and I pushed on the cone. Reconnected at it shows 3.5. Not sure how to understand what's going on. My main concern is trying to sell a f'd up sub to someone. When I had it connected last it sounded decent. Didn't appear to be functioning improperly. No scraping or anything. Help me understand.

i have a dilema. i have a zx2500.1 now. i am gonna purchase 2 15.2 orion hcca's next week. but since some faggy ass mofos done stripped my other car i think i wanna put more money into this setup. i have a 6cub ft box @ 35hz for these subs. i am contemplating buying another zx2500.1 to run one amp per sub. i am prepared and fully aware of the elec upgrades need to be successful. so with all this being said what would be a realistic difference in the 2 setups. 2 hcca's wit 1 amp or 2 hcca's wit 2 amps. obviously this is a problem cause i need to buy the subs according to the ohm load they will be run at. my goal is to have loud and deep clear bass. i want some movement(fl…

I purchased an Audiocontrol Epic 160 in Dec. of 2003 to test the original D2 12's in my Jeep Grand Cherokee. It was incredible being able to put in heart pounding bass into what normally wouldn't have any bass. Anyway I had big SPL plans for the Jeep until the ride was officially not mine anymore. Long story short I purchased a lot of great items to help increase your SPL and now I have changed my focus for my new car, '99 Infinity G20T, to LSQ. So I have an Epic 160 used for approx. 3 weeks and a brand new 0 Awg amp kit fully complete but opened because I wanted to feel the difference between my little 4 Awg to the Beasty 0. If anyone is interested reply back with y…

I spent some time on the net looking a different box design programs ,as I'm getting to build my first box ,and now more confused than ever. esp. with WinISD which many seem to use. There always seems to be a box or component of the software I don't know how to complete and so never seem to realize any ultimate box design. I'm leaning to making a sealed box ultimately, but am somewhat interested in a slot ported box if I can get the dimensions right that will fit in one side of the trunk of my car "95 Impala SS" and a programme that will let me configure those measurements. I did find a website with some ported box options, but something just didn't strike a cord right…

Ok what's the deal with separate chambers for running more than one sub? How crucial is it really? I really want to end up with 2 15's in my Toyota Yaris sedan. Biggest box I can get in there is 32w x 16h x 26d (outside dim.). If the subs are exactly the same and amps are gain matched it shouldn't be that bad right? I know it's not ideal, but I really want the 2 15's.

So I was looking at my new Crescendo Audio CCX65's and I noticed 2 possible issues I'd like feedback on. Issue 1. One of the crossovers is loose in its case and rattles around and can be moved around inside the case by pushing or pulling on the block. The other one is rock solid. Will this cause any issues other then an annoying rattle? If not I will just open the case and adhere it down like the solid one. Issue 2. One of the mids is not centered. I am not sure if this will rub or not during use since its not like these things have subwoofer excursion levels. I pushed the cone up and down a bit and didn't see or hear it rub. But I have a damping factor of about -6. So I…

how much do these go for these days in good working order

Hey guys, I am looking for a design for a 12 inch subwoofer box. The thing is that it has to be with kerfed port and flushed driver, 1.75 cub feet for a SA-12 tuned to 35hz. The closed thing I was able to find were these two but no kerfing and the second one is a bit bigger than needed(double baffle will be just redone as flush mount). Does anyone have any already made ones or can help with redoing these? If it was not a kerfed box I would just put another sheet on top for flush mount but it has to be on the inside and that will mess up the net volume. I am just new to all this... Thanks! http://www.soundsolu...all-ported.html http://www.soundsolu...all-ported.html

think ive finally got my system planned out should have money to buy within the next few months, here it is idctx65cs cadence fxa-4060 200.2 bridged cadence fxa-1700 700.1 which sub would give me the best blend of sq and output off of 700w?

ok i'm switching out my 2 15"kicker cvx's for two Fi Q 15"s and don't know which voice coil option to get dual 1 or dual 2ohm?? my amp is 1ohm mono..but i hear the fi subs have some weird voice coil they say the ohm's are like .8 or 1.5 ohm subs???what's the deal with that? if so what do i need to do?

Once again this might be a dumb question ... I think I am mostly just confirming what I already know: I am piecing together components for a new system in my VW CC. I plan on getting the Image Dynamic CTX65CS comps rated at 100w RMS - 200w MAX. I was also planning on the new Kenwood 5 channel amp which put out 80w RMS - 150w MAX. Perfect for the ID comps I thought. I recently did learn about the ZED Leviathan 6 channel amp. This amp looks awesome! Although I am on a budget, it looks very worthwhile to spend a bit extra and get this amp over the Kenwood. The Zed amp is rated at 150w RMS. Don't know what the MAX power is on the ZED. BTW anyone know what the bridged power i…