Subwoofers / Speakers
Discuss Subwoofers And All Aspects Of Speakers here.
6,865 topics in this forum
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i came here thinking i knew what i wanted and just looking for more information, but i have discovered a couple products i didn't know about. i liten to rap and the inclosure will be 1-1.5' sealed. i am going for sq, but i know me and i love being loud. is any 1 drastically better/worse than the others? fi q12 (how i got here) icon 12 soundsplinter rl-p12
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hey guys I already have some Focal 5x7 CA1 door speakers that have the tweeter built in but I wanna get some seperate 1" tweeters and a crossover do you guys have any recommendations. Im not sure really about any brand as far as just tweeters go which is why im asking. i'd like to keep it around 100.00 if possible.... Thanks guys.
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Was flipping around eBay and noticed a 10" Magnum for sale. Then I woke up .. darn it. The Hammer
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I've had 2 15 inch solo barics for the past 2 years(with a 1500D on each sub) and im use to songs hittin a certain way. I wanted something different so i purchased the nightshade 18(3000D pushing it) and the songs that hit hard in my 15z dont hit as hard in the 18. why is this and what songs should i play to get the full effect of this beast in my hatch??????
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anyone ever use this sub? how did it perform?
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Whats up this is my first Post on SSAudio.com's forums. I have been lurking around for a little bit and am a regular poster on CA.com I just have a quick question... I just picked up a 12" Magnum D2 for a temporary system until the new mags come out (hopefully soon). I know the SI website says either 1.5 cubes @ 32 Hz, or 2.0 cubes @ 29 Hz. The 1.5 cubes seems kind of small but the 2.0 @ 29 Hz seems like too low of a tuning. I was wondering if I could do like 2.5 cubes @ 32Hz? What would you guys recommend? Thanks in advance!
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http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2346787/12 So far they're in 3.25cf sealed a piece... if I need to, I can always port them to 40 or 45hz with a pair of 6" ports per sub, and hit the magical 150 mark fairly easily But I want to try for 150 without porting
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I having been using BBP 6 and WinISD to design a ported box for 2 Icon 12D1 and getting 2 different port lenghts. Could someone confirm which one is more accurate? My box will be made with 3/4 mdf 17 1/4 high 48 wide and 14 deep outside measurements. After sub and port displacement BBP 6 calculates this to be 4.043 cubs with a port 12.5 X 3 at 32 1/4 long tuned at 27h. WinISD says same specs with port length at 27.94. This is going in a 95 Mazda B3000 extra cab powered by a Sundown SAE 1200 for daily usage. I am fairly decent at box building but mainly just built sealed boxes. I want to try a properly designed tuned box for this new setup. Am I heading in the right direc…
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I see quite a few people on here running a one D2 12 set up in a sealed box and am curious if y'all (or anyone else) can shed some light on this. I'm considering going from my current 2 X e10O setup (800 watts in ~ 2 cu ft) sealed to a single D2 12 (~1200 watts in ~2 cu ft) sealed. I realize this is an SI forum but you guys seem pretty mature (well, at least in your advice ) so I'm hoping to get some relatively unbiased advice. I'm looking for noticeable gains in both my low end and that hard-to-breathe bass while maintaining a high level on SQ. Will I achieve this?
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ok so i currently bought this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7216_Pioneer+Premier+DEH-P980BT.html and i have a fi btl 12 on the way with a sundouwn audio 1500d and right now my front speakers are blown and its horrible. I was wondering what speakers u guys think could keep up with the sub.i have a 2002 jeep libertty and the only prob with putting in front speakers is it cant exed a depth of 2.5 thanx
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I got my fiberglass box done sorta. It is done to the point that I can get an internal volume. I packed about 15 gallons of packing peanuts in there. That gives me roughly 2 cubic feet. I know peanuts are not the most accurate, but that seemed like the easiest way. So anywho, I have about 1200w to throw at a Magnum that I am gonna get. Should I go ahead and put something in there to take up some space or let it ride and see how it goes? Then make it smaller if need be? Do you trust the peanut method? I don't want to buy a bunch of sand and then have to vacuum it out. What do you guys think? Thanks - Jim
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Welp, ive decided to ge rid of the chitty MDF look in my truck but all the funky bends in my ports is cutting back on my potential SPL and probably is adding a little noise at high levels though i cant detect it because of rattleing....so ive devided, new enclosure time while im sintalling some SPectrum and Damplifier in my truck along with some open celled acoustical foam (cheap stuff, not Second Skin's stuff) foam between the back metal and the plastic interior panel to help trap waves in that little area and padd the smacking between the metal and the plastic. ive told you all that because i want to eliminate any possible port noises and gain SPL by having the least am…
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I recently installed a pair of Kenwood component speakers in my 00 Trans Am's doors, but for some reason didn't think about the crossovers that came with the speakers till after the install The original ones are hooked up but just want to know if I should pull it apart and replace them with the right ones or will the original ones be ok?
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does any one know the max of these subs the rms is 500 im just scared to put tomany watts and burn it up any help thanks kevin
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is it true you can re cone a sa sub from a 12 inch sub to a 15 inch sub if so how is this possible ?
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any opinions on DD Designs death penalty 12"subs vs. FI audio Bl loaded 12s.......G
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I'll be running a pair of 12W6v2 in a sealed enclosure. I'm getting Alpine PDX amps for the system because they're great amps, I can get a great deal on them, and most importantly, they're SMALL. I'm not sure whether to run a single PDX 1.1000 to the subs, or run a pair of those amps, one to each sub. So the question is, should I just be running them at 500w each or 1000w each? It's a SQ system, but I guess LSQ is more accurate. The rest of the system (6", 3", 1" in the front, no rear stage) will be run by a pair of 4.150s.
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i have a 94 caprice wagon and had purchased infinity693.7i 6x9's for the rear. they work fine up until i actually go to screw them in. they actually seem to be grounding themselves out on the bracket where the speaker goes. i checked all the wires and nothing is wrong as far as i can tell. i think it may just be a defective speaker. any input/help would be greatly appreciated.
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From my reasoning if you ran a dual 2ohm and dual 4 ohm subs in parallel of the same make and power handling it would give you a .75 load. Would there be something hindering me from dueing this as long as my amp can handle the load?
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as said b4 im somewhat of a newb to car audio with some pretty good knowledge but no hands on experience, so a few questions abt wiring..... how should i wire the 500/1 to the d2, ive tried to tech myself through car audio websites with no luck, a link or just some tips would be great! thanx Tom
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Man i must have gotten used to my Magnum 12s because they are not cutting it for me now. Maybe i just need to stop being lazy and go ahead and get my 180amp alternator installed. Dont get me wrong, the bass still hits amazingly hard, but im used to it. So i keep trying to turn the knob up more and more. Anywayz, i thought about selling my old claw style 12s and use that money plus some to go ahead and get two of the 15s. Only problem with that is, i have a 96 Honda accord. My trunk isnt big at all. And i love ported boxes. Right now my 12s are in a 2cu box tuned to 29hz. And thats basically my whole trunk. Im sure i can squeeze a tad bit more room, but not much at all. Ba…
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I have an opportunity to buy TWO practically new T2d412 in box for 600. I know they go for over 500 new not including the box. I also know they are spl subs. My question is a. Is there any reason I shouldnt get them b. Has anyone had experience with the newer model t2s and if so are they musical AT ALL?
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