Subwoofers / Speakers

I currently have a ssd15 in about a 4cuft box with an 8" sonotube port... the port i believe is causing unloading problems because it is so long it is basicaly resting o. The motor of the sub. So would one 6" pvc port be big enough? Ill flare the ends either making fiberglass flares or heating the pvc up annd forming it around a dog water bowl. But please... im getting slightly aggrivated...

Hey Mark, Just curious how much it would cost to get one of my Mach 5 SPL-12s fixed. It fell in my box, and cracked the basket. My dad and I used some epoxy and got the basket as true as it could be before we epoxied it, however I'd like to get it repaired right. It would need a new recone and basket I would think. Are you able to repair your subs, and if you can, how much would you figure it would cost?

ok, so yesterday, i took out my cheapo 3.5" dash speakers and taped off the ends of the wires with electrical tape. now, my right door speaker is very quiet, pretty much not even working, and when i turn up my stereo, the music cuts out in my front speakers. is this a short? i assume it is but just checking i guess.

Ive got two 18" death rows in my truck atm. Lately its been annoying not having a window to look behind when i back up and changing lanes can get scary since i cant really see anything to the right of my except by looking at my right side mirror. Recenly i have been offered a 275 cash plus an 18" death penalty for my 18s. Ive been considering it since it would be nice to have a back window again. My question comes down to would this be a pretty good trade?

ok so if a quad coil 1.4 ohm sub has a bad coil how do you wire it to cut that coil out? is this possible...

ok I wanted to get a rl-i8 but they wont br in stock for a while so i found these AA Assassin Series 8"D4 and I have heard they r almost the same thing so...witch one do you think I should go with.

what are people getting into their doors ? i dont mind some cutting and whatnot, but i'm not looking to make a whole new door skin. i had hoped to get a set of 6.5 comps and a mid base in the door. the comps look easy enough , but where could i put the mid base ? would it be bad to put the mid base in the back doors? or under seats ? any pics would go a long way for me. thanks

Lots of info in this post, but I will bold the important bits and questions I have. Feel free to read it all but my main questions stem from box design perspectives. I can create another thread about electrical if needed so try to limit the discourse to enclosure related topics, cheers!! After much trial and error the only reasonable design choice left is to go for a slot port. I have tried and tried to fit an aero port however I have come across two problems. 1. I have to make my box far too large for my power >5 cubes net or 2. my port becomes feasibly too long to fit inside my box or outside (>28") along with airspeed issues with an 8 inch port (50 i…

My girlfriend has a 2010 Elantra and wants a single 12 and has a Kicker ZX750.1 to power whichever we choose. The ones listed as the one's we're deciding between. Price isn't an issue between them, so please don't take that into consideration when choosing one of the options. She usually prefers the sound of sealed, but I know a ported 12 could also sound tight and hit hard.

I got a sa-8 sub, and the box i haveis made of that * now my question is this ---How far should the distance be from the back of the sub to the front of the port, the sub is 5 1/4 deep and from the back side of the front to the front side of the port i have 5 9/16 -- is 5/16 of a inch enough room for air movment or what should i do the spec is from ssa so Im thinking they know what is best.just asking

I see quite a few people on here running a one D2 12 set up in a sealed box and am curious if y'all (or anyone else) can shed some light on this. I'm considering going from my current 2 X e10O setup (800 watts in ~ 2 cu ft) sealed to a single D2 12 (~1200 watts in ~2 cu ft) sealed. I realize this is an SI forum but you guys seem pretty mature (well, at least in your advice ) so I'm hoping to get some relatively unbiased advice. I'm looking for noticeable gains in both my low end and that hard-to-breathe bass while maintaining a high level on SQ. Will I achieve this?

I thought cabin gain was supposed to make a sub sound louder and play lower, yet with my doors closed and windows up, it is signifigantly quieter than with a window down or door open, especially in the low bass region. FYI, I have an audioque LW8 (awesome sub btw) in a 1 cu. ft. enclosure with 16in^2 of port tuned to 35hz behind the driver's seat of a 1998 ford ranger extended cab facing backwards. It seems like there is some sort of cancellation going on; in my HT I could help this by adjusting the phase, but i've never heard of a phase adjustment on a car amp. Anything to fix this, or am I doomed to rolling the windows down when I want to bump? I've already tried rev…

I know it was mentioned in the "mag 15 pored for SQ" topic but I thought it deserved its own thread. Has anyone tried this or does anyone know of a good tutorial to make a transmission line box? Beyond being fairly large are there any other drawbacks to using them in a car?

Tell me what you think! Just got everything done yesterday! Sounds awsome, I love it. Well worth the wait/money. Thanks SI!

Man i must have gotten used to my Magnum 12s because they are not cutting it for me now. Maybe i just need to stop being lazy and go ahead and get my 180amp alternator installed. Dont get me wrong, the bass still hits amazingly hard, but im used to it. So i keep trying to turn the knob up more and more. Anywayz, i thought about selling my old claw style 12s and use that money plus some to go ahead and get two of the 15s. Only problem with that is, i have a 96 Honda accord. My trunk isnt big at all. And i love ported boxes. Right now my 12s are in a 2cu box tuned to 29hz. And thats basically my whole trunk. Im sure i can squeeze a tad bit more room, but not much at all. Ba…

OK guys here's the question, will it be a big difference on the meter and by ear going from 4x RE SX 12" (powered by 2x USAmps MD-3D in an 7 ft^3 tuned at 34Hz) to 4x RE MT 12" in the same box and tuning but power by (4x MD-3D thus one Amp per MT's) I assume the MT is similar to the BTL's and they recommend 1.75ft^3 per 12" BTL drivers, so it will work ok. Will you notice a Big difference in loudness, and is it worth it the change? and how about to 4x FI BTL 12" in the same box and the 4x MD-3D? Anyways, thanks. Aruman

Recently this weekend me and my friend traded cars becasue mine gets better mileage. he has my old subs in them and this weekend the amp started going into protect mode. this happens on any note lows or highs. my friend says its happened to him before on only one song. but the amp does not get hot it is not clipping or distorted as im running them at maybe 800 to 1000 watts. when i go back to listen to them one sub sounds like it pops then the amp goes into protect. what could that sound be? the song i was playing this weekend was rack city a lot because of its good bass (in my opinion). could i have possibly have torn the spider or the tinsel leads? when i push on sub …

lol silly question but do the IXL series (12" to be more specific) have mach5 printed on the dust caps? Cant remember where, but I've seen pictures of the IXL's without mach5 written, on the internet On your official website it is printed on there except the 15" & 18" so just want confirmation, also do you send out stickers when purchasing your subs?

any opinions on DD Designs death penalty 12"subs vs. FI audio Bl loaded 12s.......G

soooo i wanted to play around with differnt designs in bass box pro, but there is no stereo integrity on the list? is there a place where i can get the full T/S pramateres for the mags?

hello everyone i just got a quick question. i need some advice, I have a 2006 cadillac escalade with 26"s on it and i got 1 12inch jl audio w7 with a 2000 watt amp. it pounds really hard, its hits 135 on the decimal reading. i want to know what kind of door speakers to get so that I have amazing hi's in my doors. i want to be super loud and screaming over my base . what should i get? give me some insight. i got money so the cost dnt matter. hit me up

My uncle ordered a four channel for his bike and gave me an arc audio mini amp ( http://www.arcaudio.com/p/ks-125-2-bx-mini# ). Does 70 RMS @ 4 ohms x 2 and 125w @ 2 ohms x 2. So now I'm looking for a good set of 5.25 component speakers. I have a 2001 Buick lesabre and that's wat size comes stock in the front doors. For substage I'm going to be running a 18" SSA Icon sealed off on approx 1000 watts. I want crisp highs and warm mid bass that will blend well with my sub stage. Looking for good suggestions on a set in the 100-150 dollar range. My uncle has all Polk components in his truck and bike and think they ssound good. Any opinions on them?

Would it be ok to temporarily run my bl 15 (dual 2) on one voice coil at 2 ohms from a kicker 300.1 until i get my t10001bd. or will this blow the sub from lack of power.

So I have an alpine v12 707 amp 2 channel which does 70rms at 4 ohms. Im just generally looking into components and these seem legit. Has anyone heard them? Are they any good? They will be for my front stage and I'm not sure if I'll be running a rear stage yet. Also, will 70rms be enough for them? rated at 85rms. I just dont want them to distort once I turn the volume up. (obviously not full blast)

Plan is to run one of these in a ported 1.0 box, My amp; Arc Audio 900.6, will put out 550 wrms bridged @ 4 ohms. How much of this power can I safely run to this sub?