Subwoofers / Speakers

i had a guy offer me his sa-15 (with or without box) and 2 rolls of audio wrap (15"x10' each) and some pieces of second skin damplifier pro and maybe a little bit of cash for my xl 12 (without box). is it worth it? can i flip the sub for some quick cash while using the deadener in my truck? if so or not so, how much would everything be worth that he is trading me?

Ok, since the FI BL pretty much won the comparison against the maw-15's and the Q (Only because of my application) And since Im pretty sure thats what I am getting I have put it up against stiffer Competition. Now I am only Getting One 15 BL as of right now. But Against the AA Havoc how does it Compare. Its Around same price range. Whatcha Got for me, Thanks in advance. AA Havoc 15 __________________________ Triple stack FEA optimized motor 3" 4 layer aluminum coil Triple layer reinforced collar Triple progressive spiders Ultra rigid reinforced cone body Hybrid foam surround Push terminals 1250W RMS DUAL 2 OHM COILS Re 3.7 (1.85 Ohm per coil) Fs 29.0 Qms 6.42 Qes .50…

hi all i have a buddy just getting into car audio and hes looking to upgrade his juguar xj8s sound system the monly problem is he wants some bass but his gas tank completely seals off his trunk from his cab so nothing gets through. so i am looking for a 5.25 inch set of comps that have some strong mid bass to hold him over the only thing is he doesnt want to spend over 175

I am getting ready to install comp set off of an amp. Is 12 gauge speaker wire the correct size to use for this? Or is there a better choice

Here is my PM to denim... i thought i would ask everyone else this too.... """ Like i probably have told you more then once. Im running 2 jl 10w3v2's and a jl 500/1 amp. I was in my car today after doing some more rear hactch "dynomat" (i use ice and weather shield but thats illrelivant) any-who... I really like the SQ of my subs they hit everynote, and there loud, like 141 is loud, but im looking for more. the SI MAG 15 D2 will that sound as good as these, and have the bass, the pounchy tight bass, even when turned up high? because i know there is a reason they make subs 8"-18" for a reason. I mean would i be better of doing another 2 10"s + another 500/1, or doing 4 12w…

what would the value of a newly reconed DD 3500 18 be? brand new basket, direct connect leads, beefed up to take 2500 +

i am looking for someone withe the specs for 2 18s to be placed in a 2001 tahoe or if a box builder has already made a fit box email me at [email protected] or hotmail.com thank you P.S Fi has differnt speakers which one is best for the sound and what is the rms range for 2 18s for Fi

My son is looking at buying a DCON-12 S4 for his car. He will have a Alpine MRP-M500 pushing the DCON. We want to build a ported box for the DCON. SSA says optimal ported box is 2.25 cu.ft tuned to 28-33 hz. I tried downloading the box design from SSA. I can get the google sketch picture, but not the other file. Can someone help me with the box dimensions?

I've got two Havoc 15's for my extended cab ford ranger. I want to build a box for them but I'm debating between ported and sealed. I know ported can sound good, but there are certain advantages a sealed box will always have. (such as transients) I listen to primarily rock music. I have about 8cu ft available, and two 15s. How should I go about designing or choosing a box?

I am trying to remove the factory speakers from the back deck of the G6 but I am Not sure how to remove them. The Speaker grills dont seem to pop off. There are some clips in the trunk around each speaker but when I undo those, all it does is loosen the entire back deck Any Idea on how to change? Also I have 6x8's from my old car I would like to put in. But the factory size is 6x9? Will it still work out Fitting the 6x8's in? Thanks in advance ~MadroX

i am building a box for 2 a pair of level 4xl's and i was wondering would there be a big difference of i only did 12's instead of 15's?

just got a 12'' lvl 4. gonna put in a 2cuft box after PD in a removable port box @ 32 and 36 hz. i had a 12'' re se in a 1.6cu ft box before. was pushing 700 rms to the re, will be pushing twice that to the lvl 4. u guys think there will be a huge/ noticeable difference in spl?

Need to build a new box for my suv. Im running two RF t212d4 on two rf t1500bdcp. I want to go subs up port back now that im not in a trunk car. Does anyone have experience with what box size/tuning/port area these subs excel in? Right now they are in 2 cube box tuned to 35 and do ok, but im sure they have way more in them. I will post the t/s if anyone would be kind enough to see what any programs might spit out as best box size. Vehicle is 04 dodge durango. Thanks in advance Power Handling (Watts RMS): 1200 Watts RMS 2400 Watts Max Voice Coil Diameter: 4.0" (101mm) Magnet Weight (oz): 292 oz. (8.28 kg.) …

Ditto ^^

OK, well I'm looking to buy a SI Magnum 12, and I have a problem picking an amp. I have Directed 1500D that does around 1100 watts at 1 ohm, but I was looking at the Crossfire VR600D that does 600 watts at 1 ohm. I'm looking at putting the sub in around 1.75 cubes at 30hz. Which amp should I use and why? And any recommendations on the box size and tuning?

i just passed on a jl audio w7 13.7 for 2 fi audio 15 btl's... i have a 2004 grand prix and i want know if i can put both of them in the trunk or will it sound better if i go with just one with a large box... i want to get loud and low, and be heard from very far away, what size should i make my box to get the best sound out of this speaker and what size should my port be???

Here is the delima, I can either run 2 15" Fi Q sealed in a 4.5 cuft enclosure (net vol.) or 1 15" ported in a 4 cuft enclosure (net vol.) tuned to 30 Hz. Now what am looking for is clean, low end bass with the potenial to get loud. Looking at both setups, which would produce cleaner low end bass. Am not looking to compete or anything, its just a nice low end daily setup for my personal uses. Am also willing to play around with tuning if there is any suggestion. Thanks in advance for the response.

I've noticed that the level 3 subs have small vented requirements. I am looking to use two level 3 tens in a jeep wrangler. The enclosure size would be the recommended 1.4 cu. ft. (for both subs combined) using a 4" precision port for tuning. Can I start cutting or is this a bad combo?

Currently deciding between an 18" Bl or an 18" RL-P.. I am basically looking for just a loud daily driver that will pound the lows. I have 1500 watts on hand to power them.. What could I expect from each sub, and how do they compare?

if you take a fully loaded btl D1 coils and wire up one autotek mean machine 1500d to each coil would it put each amp at 1 ohms since its a 1 ohm coil?

I will be looking forward to upgrading the stock components in my 2008 xb here soon. Stock has a 6.5 in the lower part of the door and a tweeter in the door in the section where the side mirror is. I know from reading post that you should go listen and pick for yourself but the problem is I live in a small town on the coast of Oregon and the only place in town that has car audio.....well their stuff is at least 5 years old and 2x the price of retail. I can drive east about an hour and a half to Portland and check out stereo shops/stores but most I've seen only carry name brands at inflated prices. So should I just wing it and take a chance on a set? My goals are just t…

how much power can they handle daily?

because I'm a noob to active setups. So I'm trying to plan out an active two way setup for my Tahoe. My question is can I use any speakers I want? I'm used to buying what is packaged and put together for me and now I'm swimming in possible options. I see all the Morels ,but none are the ones for the car setups, then there are seas and ScanSpeak and peerless.........Do they need to be made for car audio and what are things I need to look for in the graphs and such. I have no way to demo all these options!

My son really likes the SA8s and wants to upgrade his stereo system. Can someone help with a box design? I assume someone has done this already and has posted a box design of what they did. I've been looking but have found some crazy installs. We only want to do two subs. Ported since that is the recommended design. If going sealed does not hurt that much, then that would be an easier build. This will be our first sub project together so want to do something on the easy side. We built a pirogue so have skills. BTW, he will be powering these with a Cadence ZRS-2002 going with 2 channel, 2ohm loads. http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningc…

I saw on CL with a guy with only a dented in dust cap for $75. He said that's all that's wrong. It's a first version icon. I would love to have it. Can I get a new dust cap for it?