Subwoofers / Speakers

I have a pair of BL 15 1ohm subs. I wanted to keep the subs at 1 ohm. So I should wire them on one side of the coil - to + then connect the + on one sub to the + on the other sub. Then the - on 1 side to the negative on the other side. then a + and a - out to the amp. But instead of the - to the + on the same side I have the - on one coil going to the + on the the other coil. Does it matter?

Can someone describe to me what the Bl/Bl curve of a subwoofer is? I've heard it determines the SQ of the driver.

is there gonna be one cuz i want me some zcon 18s any know? who else is gonna go on a shopping spree

is there gonna be one cuz i want me some zcon 18s any know? who else is gonna go on a shopping spree

i was just wondering if anyone got there sub they ordered on black friday yet. i got an email that it was awaiting shipment but didnt receive any tracking orders. im fine with waiting just curious thats all. ordered 15" XCON if it makes any difference.

http://www.blackmarketaudio.net/productlist.htm chech it out seen it on smd alot of there stuff looks pretty familiar?

Yep, we sent our 12" BM prototype to JimJ without ever listening to it. A lot of people would say that's a pretty stupid thing to do. But we have enough confidence in the new BM line from auditioning the 10" model that we jumped out on a limb and send him the driver. Jim has a prototype with a few things fixed vs. the 10" model - mainly the surround color - but not everything is finalized on this prototype. The only big thing left to do is to treat the dust cap for a different finish. But besides the latter, the driver Jim has will perform just like the production drivers will. Jim sent me an email yesterday letting me know he got the driver and will be testing it…

All right im usually roaming around the caraudio.com forums, but have been browsing here for awhile.... now im hoping someone here can help explain how my subs are blowing cause i cant figure it out. i had 2 dd 1508's hooked up to a Saz1500d, both Svc 4, so 2ohm load ~800wRms, Set the gain using a multimeter to a little bit below the voltage it should have been at for 800w to try to avoid any clipping from the amp. The first sub stopped working without any smell any or any heat even felt on the sub, both of these subs are sealed so there should be no over excursion problems, and they are about 50w under RMS. Now i rebuilt the box for a single 8" since i still had one of t…

Ok, lets dispell some myths about speakers. I figured we could have a small list of the different ways you could "blow" a speaker and have a little technical explanation to go with it. I also want to talked about clipped and unclipped signals and thier effects on a speaker. Ways to blow a driver 1. Degrading of materials This one is plain and simple. Speakers get old. Typically when a speaker gets old the surrounds go first, especially in stock speakers. most surrounds are made of a foam or rubber and time, heat, sunlight (common in dash mounted speakers) cause the materials to degrade, and then when you play them again they fall apart. 2. Thermal Limits of a driver When …

I recently just blew my 15n2 Btl fully loaded. I am looking to recone it and am interested in upgrading it to an n3. Is this possible or just recone it with the n2? Thanks andrew

So after having my sub for 3 weeks the suspension is gone on it . It is a DC Audio Level 3, i had it in a 3.4ft^3 box tuned to 32HZ running less than rated clean power to it (used a DD1). It never over heated to the point I could smell the coil but today it started bottoming out and i took it out of the box and could bottom it out with one finger. Did i do something wrong or was this a manufacturer error?

so i have specs of the driver and i was wondering if i got enough specs togeather if a recone from any company would be possible. ok so it says... cd10aw is the mod number 200 oz mag is what it says, but im not sure if its the actual mag weight or the motor structure in general. they weigh about 27 lbs. each. Dual 4 ohm.... but recone impedence is not important 27mm x max with a 3 inch voice coil if they actually are blown and its not my friends hearing i will get some more pics up and measurements but i really loved these subs and the mag is a decent size so scot or nick or anyone who does or has the parts to possible recone these drives please let me know. Thanks in adv…

One of the coils on my 12" Mag is blown (I Think). when we wired the sub in series on a Volt meter the DCR was only @ like 1.5 ohms. Me and squeak9798 tested it @ his house and I think it took a big bite. Would there be anyway either Stereo Integrity or RE could rebuild this woofer for me? I am willing to pay and ship it to get it Fixed. I am sick of having no bass.

Hey guys I have a buddy who blow his midbass and he says his other midbass isalso starting to go. He told me a bunch of stuff and i will post it all here! basically i am baffled about it and though maybe someone can see somethign wrong with his setup! thanks for your time everyone and any and ALL help! here goes what he told me! let me know if you need any mroe info! " My head unit is the stock unit that comes with my 2009 Mazda 3, so I have this signal feeding into an MTX ReQ, which then splits the signal to sub and full range RCA's. The full range RCA's then feed into an Audio Control EQL ( http://www1.dealtime.com/xPO-Audiocontrol-EQL ) This ensures the signal that…

Hey fellas. My brother called me up yesterday saying his subwoofer was making a funny buzzing noise. The woofer resides in a sealed box we made for his truck (custom console). He said that he hadn't driven his truck in about 3 weeks, and when he had driven it last it hadn't made any noises. I was there when we installed about a year ago, and it sounded wonderful actually. The woofer in question is a IA Death Row, wired to 1-ohm. Since I live a few states over, I had him take the woofer out of the box and put a meter on the coils. Both of the coils read fine as they would brand new. I told him to press on the cone to see if he could hear/feel any rubbing. He said n…

I got a Memphis M3 10 (2008) and its def. blown but it still barely vibrates and makes the faintest bass when I turn it up. What does that mean? I already ordered a recone so I was just wondering if it would be possible to fix? The coil looks fine and both terminals still have the correct resistance. Tinsel looked okay but I didnt really look that good due to it being a bulky 10 so its hard to see anything. Anybody know what it might be and how to fix it?

So I just bought an Alpine Type-R 12" sub (dual 4 ohms). I had it wired at 4 ohms initially, because I was trying to "break it in" like I was told over and over. I wired it down to 2 ohms after a few weeks to get the full power, and after a few days, it took a shit. I'm not quite sure why. The wiring was done professionally too. My amp (Alpine MRP M500), is essentially perfect for the sub, and the box was 1.94 cubes (recommended is 1.0 - 2.0). I don't know what happened. So if anyone might have an idea why, I'd GREATLY appreciate it. This was my first sub; I'm 16, and I can't go out and buy a new one whenever I like. And this is off topic, but it's a big concern as well…

well i got a little happy with my volume knob today, and blew my driver side tweeter. i admit it was my fault. but anyway, i cant find any tweets for sale, so i was wondering if i could buy a different set for the mids. They are polk momo 6.5's. any cheap tweeters you could suggest? thanks!

Somehow i just discovered that the tweets are blown in my door speakers. Right now i have american bass SQ coaxials in there and i was thinking about going with their component line. The closest i have found to match the components that AB has are the pro series sm16-90 from soundstream. I have the amp to power them but wanted to know how they would sound in my doors, i have plenty of highs and bass to compliment more mids.

Well, apparently i blew my sub this evening and i am very frustrated =/ If someone with any idea of what i can do to fix the sub id gladly appreciate your comments. I posted a thread in another forum and heres the link to what happened. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f27/uh-ohh-334243/ Does anyone happen to have the phone number to reach Fi headquarters so that i can talk in person? I believe Scott is the man to talk to

Good evening, my underseat truck setup finally kicked the bucket so I'm going to finally upgrade like I've been wanting to, doing a budget friendly soundqubed setup to match what I have now, (SQ amps and highs and mids) I drive a 2002 F150 supercrew (4 door, 5.5 foot bed) too and powering low end stage off an SQ 2200d. My questions are: 1. Is a regualr ported blowthrough possible with 4 15's ? All I see are 4th or 6th orders around (trust me I have searched a lot) My goals are to be loud, low and clean. I modeled different enclosures with WinISD and I get the best response with a ported box versus a 4th order (probably because of the stupid high QTS). 2. Is a clamshell a…

some guy offered me a brand new re xxx 18 even trade for my fi bl 15s. the bls are only like 4 months old. do i do it. no goals just loud well defined music

What it says, I have an oppurtinity to change the subs out. I have ~2000rms to work with per sub, just curious which one would be louder and if the DMXs can get low, cuz the BLs don't get the lows I want. '

Just wondering if ANY Members remember these Sub's. They were manufactured by Still Water Designs back in the Early 90's. Most remember there 15" box because it had a whole row of 2 1/4" ports all way across the bottom of the box. But they also made some Bad A_S 10's that were sold in bass tubes. They were isobaricly stacked. If you didn't know what you were looking at you just thought it was a 10" sub in a tube. But if you looked close you would wonder WTF when you noticed that it's mounted in a 12" hole with what looks to be bolts going through the normal mounting holes. . . . . . . . . . . . They were Very expensive back then not to mention in efficient. $700 a tube an…

I am wondering if I could power a pair at 4 ohms 1500 watts rms, I know the BM's rms is only 400 watts rms, but I am just wondering if this is at all possible if I am carefull with the gain and volume?