Subwoofers / Speakers

i just got a real good deal on a kicker kx1200.1 and was wondering if switching from the crossfire vr1000d to the kicker kx1200.1 will make a audible difference?Right now i have my mag 15 in a 3.7cf at 27hz box.According to my friend who's a kicker dealer i should definately hear a difference, what do you guys think?

Experts, can someone help identify this FI Audio 15 inch subwoofer model?

I was planing to build a box that's about 1.50 cubic feet tuned to 36hz that's all I have room for. But I don't know which sub I should get Sa-12 Sa-10 E12v2. My amp should do around 750rms clean. This is for a ext cab truck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

When I originally heard the IB3 18's Xmech was "shortly after its 30mm Xmax" I assumed maybe it was 31mm-33mm. So when I heard the IB3 22 was going to have a 38mm Xmax and 96% of the Vd of two IB3 18's, I thought the 22" was going to have a lot more Mechanical clearance than the 18's. But the 22's are going to have the same profile surrounds as the 18's, so the same or similar 41mm - 42mm Xmech. I'm not going to be able to replace my 18's with the 22's. At 8 ohms I already have to be careful to avoid over excursion. I planned on running 8 ohms for the 18's for safety, but 4 ohms for the 22's. The 22" isn't going to work. I'm probably going to have to order a 2nd pair of 1…

So I'm getting a Sundown SAZ-1500D AMP from a member on here, when I stumbled upon a Sundown Nightshade 15" D2 for a really good deal, I know nothing about the sub. The car will be a daily driver and I was originally going with a RE Audio SXX 15" D2, so is the sundown a better sub? Pro's and Con's of both?

Well i just sold off my XXX that i no longer need and after paying off some of the stuff for my bass race van i have about 300 dollars to put in a new front stage in silverado. Currently im running Kicker SS65.2's active off a 880PR and Sundown SAX-100.4. The kicker were just something temp i got from a buddy until i got time to glass my doors up. Well the time has come and im looking to get started right after christmas or new years. I have a 880PR for processing and a Sundown SAX-100.4 for power. So im looking for recommendations on a mid and tweeter for a 2-way. Im going to glass the doors so i dont realy have a restriction or set driver size. Amp power 100rms @ 4 x4 …

Ok just wondering some opinions on whats a good 10 inch sub woofer has to be round the box is fiberglass and already built I listen to mostly rap the box is about 2 cubic feet with 2 3inch areos in it tuned to about 36 in the back of a hatchback im looking for something beefy amp will be selected after i choose my sub.

Right now I've got an Ascendant Audio Atlas 15, and about 400 - 500RMS to play with. I am thinking of upgrading to the D2 later this year. My question is, on limited power, is the D2 still an upgrade?? The Atlas is no slouch down low and does pretty darn well off of 400 RMS, 18mm xmax. The box I plan on using is going to be a 4.5 cubic foot ABC box tuned to 33hz.

Well im bored and im going to start a new job soon, so naturally i must start a new project... The Car Anyways i'd end up taking the back seats out, doing a fiberglass sealed enclosure, for the mags at a slant fireing back, and probably do some sort of compartment were the rear seats are for 2 extra batteries, along with w.e. else i need, i'll end up pulling the floor up in the back also, if i really wanted to im sure the is enough space to go ported or if i wanted im sure i can have all the subs fireing back instead of at a slant towards the back, I was thinking the new focal 3-way series for a front stage or the CDT ES 3-way's also I was thinking a 250a alt should be …

But what subs should I look at? Ill be running 2 Mmats 2000.1d's . Supposedly rated at 2000@1ohm rms. I know the slightly older d2000.1s were rated at 1500. I dunno. Its a 1995 z28 . My son wants to do an spl car next year. I have no issues losing my cargo area or back seat.

I'm looking at the Rockford Fosgate Power T1652-S for front and Rockford Fosgate Power T1692 for rear. However, I'm a bit scared of the aluminum tweeter. I've had bad experiences in the past with non-silk tweeters (Kappa). I liked the sound from my CDT CL-62's with TW-25S silk dome tweeter. The Kappa's would literally give me a headache and make my ears ring. While TWO sets of the CDT's I could listen to full tilt all day with no side-effects. All properly amped. Another option for me would be the Image Dynamics CTX-6.5cs. But don't know if they are too deep (mounting) for my 2005 Civic doors even with spacers. They have a silk dome tweeter, but I heard they are harsh!. S…

So I have most of the system planned. Truck is a super cab 2014 F150. Subs will be two RE REX 10s Dual 4s. Each sub will get .72 cubic feet sealed. Box is going under the rear seat. Sub amp will be SAE-1000D Comp set amp will be Rockford Fosgate P300x2. I am not sure what comps to go with. Going to be a 6.5" set. Budget up to around 200 ish dollars for them. Top mount depth cant be more than 2 3/8th inch. Have been looking at Kappa 60.11cs, Alpine Type R, JL c2-600 is close enough with a spacer. I might need to spend a little less to get a smaller driver, because I cant space the speaker out from the door too much with out hitting the door panel, and I am not …

A while back I bought a cheap budget system used off one of my buddies friends for $150 bucks. It was an 12" Orion sub, Alpine amp, and a Obcon box. Sounds pretty good and hit fairly hard. So when I bought it, the seller stated it was a 200 watt rms sub running off the amp @ 2 ohms which produces 300 watts rms. He didn't know the model of the sub just the specs the local audio shop told him when he bought the package. Well I am in the process of installing 2 ssd 12" and a 1600 watt amp. So for fun while I am waiting to finish the box I decided to pull the sub from the temp setup just to laugh at the tiny magnet it should have. Based off what he told me and the dust cap I …

Does anyone know if these horns are worthwhile? I'm gonna tell u what i have and what it's doing so if u got any other recommendations, let me know. I have 2 ID 6.5s in the front and 2 ID 6.5" midbass woofers in the rear. They are all ran off of a sundown 100.4 I had first set the HP for the fronts around 300hz and the rears were bandpassed from 50-400hz. When i had it setup this way, the rears were 100% inaudible. I have redid the x-over since then i have it setup something like this- fronts are HP at 700hz and rears are bandpassed from 50-800hz. This makes the music sound more deep and rich-like but because there is so much range lost up front, there's quite a few songs…

So basically I am trying to figure out which subwoofers would be best for me. Background info: Vehicle: 2000 suburban (space is really no issue for me) Amps: 2 planet audio ap1000d's (rated for 650 but i believe put out well over 800 watts) Plans: currently im running 4 12'' cvrs and im ready to upgrade so i want to run 2 18's , I plan to get dual 2 ohmn coils so i can wire at 1ohmn with one sub per amp, this will be a daily pounder, and i will be pushing everything hard, I have the big 3 and a 220 amp iraggi alt, i have the best knu koncepts 0ga wire, and all i need to beef up my electrical is a second battery. I am choosing from Fi subs and my gut is telling me that …

So I have been tossing around a few ideas. 1st I am thinking of running 2 IXL 10's in a center console, vented enclosure tuned to 32hz (not sure what cuft would be best?) these would be run off my 1200.1 Tantrum @ 2 ohms The goal of this set up is to save some space over my current set up while maintaining similar output. My current set up is a single TC sounds 15 3k 3.2ft^3 tuned to 32hz. (I love everything about this set up, just wanting to try something new) The space I would like to stay in for this new set up would be 20" high x18"wide x 24"depth subs and port both facing back. what would be the optimal cuft and port area? so that is the 1st and most practical set up…

I have these mystery 15" subwoofers, I need some help finding out who makes them and what they're rated. The way they are installed atm in this guys tahoe would make it a real pain to take them out and check the back, so hopefully this is the easiest solution. The dust caps say five star champion series, Anytime I try to search the internets for them I get 5star ratings on subs and pioneer champion series.

I have a single 12 dcon on 400w in a sealed box I was thinkin of either gettin another dcon and have two sealed or port this dcon now and then later switch to gcon??? Either way I have to get a new box sub and amp. Which would be louder the gcon will get 800w rms at least and the two dcons would get around 750-800 aswell

I have a 2005 F150, Supercrew. I've come up with a plan of action that I had planned on doing. I currently have a Jensen VM9022( I know it's not the best), and 4 way 6x8 Pioneers(want to replace) I really want to components, with an amp and 2 10s under the seat(or if I can make my own seat lift) 2 12s under the seat. I listen to Rap, and Country mostly so I like it to REALLY knock. I have this setup planned 1. Alpine SPX-17REF= $359.98 179.99(each) 2. Alpine MRP-F600= 242.47 3. 10" Kicker Subs/Box Package=359+shipping? 4. Kenwood Excelon X1200M=269 5. Kicker PKD1 Dual amp kit= 102.99 6. Kicker SI27 2 pair RCAs=29.98 7. Monster Cable MPC S302 2C 15M=34.99 Total: 1403 …

Hi, I'm going to order my first Sundown sub))) And want to start from 8 inch, but I don't know which one to choose, D2 or D4??? I don't have an amp right now and box, want to buy sub first. Any suggestions? Thanks

So I was at a car show the other day and heard a setup with 4 sets of components in the doors. I was astonished by the loudness and clarity. I want to do something similar. I am on a budget and am looking to spend around $600 as far as speakers go. So yes (8) total midbasses and (8) total tweeters. I have looked on parts express and it is possible. I just don't know what to get and what would best suit my needs. I am looking for loudness and clarity. Obviously sound quality or staging is not of importance. I am trying to keep up with my 4 18s and this seems to be the best way to do it. I listen to a lot of techno and hip hop. I would like to cross over around 60 hz as f…

just got my shipping email today, man im so excited. still undecided on if i should just leave the jl in for now or go ahead n put the sundown in. i really want 2 xcons and 2 sundown 1500s for an upcoming show but im trying to get a box built. i think that would hit pretty hard in the cab of my truck. even tho everybody has seen em already imma still post pics when it gets here lol

super small budget build... sub is 99 bucks on woofersetc so i figured what the hell, there's a guy over on ca doing ported boxes for 30+ shipping so 130-150 for box and sub isn't too shabby.... * Peak Power Handling: 1400 Watts * RMS Power Handling: 700 Watts * Frequency Response: 16 300 * Subwoofer Size: 15" * Impedance: dual 2 ohms * Dual Voice Coils * Basket: Cast alloy basket * Recommended Box 1 (Vb): 1.50 cu. ft. sealed * Sensitivity: 1,6dB * Cone Material: Treated paper diaphragm / Poly parabolic dustcap * Former: Kapton * Terminals: Gold binding posts * Mounting Depth: 6 3/4" says 1.50 sealed, so i figure about …

I thought about painting the basket on my subwoofer. I wonder would preventing the paint to get through the vent windows on the bottom of the basket be a issue when painting the basket of a speaker that is still working. I figured i ask before i try and if it would be bad i would just paint the basket on the avalanche i need to recone.

Alright, well i told a friend that i would help him out with getting some subs in his car. He really isnt into getting loud, he just wants a little extra. So i told him like a smaller sized sub, like an 8" or 10" would be good. He doesnt want to spend too much on this setup so i was wondering if you guys could help me out with some subwoofers that might be a good choice. Probably close to around $200. Ill buy used if i need to, just need some help on what some good options would be.