Subwoofers / Speakers

Ok so i might be building a sub box for my truck. It is a 2000 f250 SuperDuty. I have stock electrical. I have alpine type r 5x7 all around I have pioneer hu. I need help in choosing subs. I plan on putting 3 10's my budget is spending around 200 for speakers and 50 for the materials for the box i have this so far top depth 3 3/4 ' bottom depth 6 1/4' length 52' height 16' should i do ported or sealed????

Since I only have room for 1, thats what I would have to work with. Again, I have 1200 watts to feed it. Box can be up to 3 cubes externally measured. I can give dimensions later because I will need help designing the box.

Okay DEI Viper 12's in a ported box. Is like .2 cu ft bigger than specs. suggest. Tuned to 28 htz. When in the Mountaineer I could put the bass to positive 3 and it slammed and sounded awsome. Now I have to have it at like -1 or 0, or else it sounds like ass. The box is now in a 1995 Dodge Intrepid in the backs seat. Reason it's not in the trunk is beacuse the trunk rattled like hell with the old subs and these murder my old ones so the trunk would be all I would hear. I want it to slam like it used to and sound good again. Got any ideas??? BTW Subs hit towards the roof and ports towards the front of the car. J

With a budget of $600 what individual comps would you order from Madisound to fill out your system. Your size choices are limited to 7inches for the woofer, 4 inch mid and 1 inch for the tweeter.

I tried to find other threads that might have helped, but didn't stumble upon any.. (maybe I didn't search the right keywords). But either way, my problem is that my sub will just randomly stop playing, and then start again. Here's my list of equipment - btl d2 sundown 1500d v.2 @ 1 ohm all knu wiring including big 3 alpine hu The first thing I did was check to see if it was the amp going into protection mode, and it's not. The blue power light stays on the whole time, even when it's not playing. The second thing I did was check to make sure all speaker wires were still connected/not lose, and they were all snug as a bug. I'm pretty damn sure my ground is good, as the ste…

I'm looking to get either a Fi SSD 15, or an SSA Icon 15... Which ever one I get will be in a ported enclosure, tuned to ~30hz. What are the pros/cons for each of these subs, and how do they differ? Thanks in advance for the help.

I'm planning to purchase a 3500D I also plan to purchase a new sub for it in the near future. I'd like to hear some opinions on which I should buy a fully loaded Fi BTL 15" or a DC LVL 5 15" I debated on a Nightshade 15 as well but they are not rated for this much power daily, maybe when the monster is released I'll switch over to a sundown sub. Thanks

I just built a box for two audiopulse axis's sealed, with one ive used for a while and a brand new one. They are both dual 2 ohm, I got the box all finished and wired all the coils in series for an 8 ohm load for my home amp for testing, and nothin came one. I checked the final resistance of the box and it read invalid. I pulled the new sub out and checked each coil and they showed the right resistance, i pulled my older one out and it showed resistance in one coil but in the other it was invalid. I pulled the older sub out of its old box two days ago and it had a thin layer of saw dust on parts of it, i guess i didnt clean out the box all the way. I used one of the micro…

I am looking into getting a 18" Fi Bl or Q for daily use. Just a little caught in between the two right now. Is going in a Hyundai xg300 powered by a kicker zx1500.1. my only concern is space(32w 17h 33d) those are external demolitions before displacements if i go with the bl it has to have a ported box and they tend to be bigger than regular sealed boxes. i would prefer to do this by making a deep box that takes up my whole trunk but at the same time i wont be able to slide it in easily or at all if i go with the Q i am sure i can get a sealed box made that will fit in probably with a little poly fill. Only concern with that is even with the BP power option will it …

They do a good job, but I gotta listen to them for longer tommorrow before I can say anything further, besides that the midbass on these things is GOOD

hey everyone. i am looking at doing my front setup very soon and i would like opinions on component speakers. i will most likely be getting the Sundown SAZ-100.4 amp.(or the 125.2)really trying to decide if i wand sound in the bak. im thinkin i do. becuz i dont want to completely screw my friends while listenin to music. i have 6.5 speakers in the doors. and tweeters in the armrest(all stock) in the back, there are 6x9's and tweeters.(stock as well) its a 1994 Toyota Camry Wagon. so...let the opinions flow. how are these Image Dynamics CTX65CS 's ?ive been reading on them and they seem good overall. opinions? ALSO, can i get them any cheaper from another authorized dealer…

CVLT-50 1" TITANIUM BULLET TWEETERS SPECIFICATIONS: Oversize 1” High Temperature Kapton Voice Coil High Density Neodymium Motor Structure Weight Titanium Dome Structure with Ferro Fluid Cooling Cast Aluminum Frame with Chrome Finish Impedance: 3 ohm Power: 50W RMS / 100W peak SPL @1w/1m: 109dB+ Frequency Response: 3KHz-20KHz Mounting Depth: 1.6” Packed in pairs with Mylar Bass Blocking Capacitors. Replacement Diaphrams Availible. CVLT-60 - TWEETERS - Cadence Acoustics, LTD If you have heard or heard of these, what do you think? -- No results found for 'CVLT-50'.

Well, after much testing and some talking with Scott I've been given the OK to go and do a group buy for Hybrid Audio Legatia L3's. I would like a minimum of 5 buyers. This will go on for a month. The normal price on these is 250$ and Scott is letting these go for 200$ for this group buy. Also I do not have an exact price but Scott said if interested we can see about including the Hybrid tweeters but obviously for a higher price which is not yet determined. He will also include the diagram for the crossovers to anyone who wants them, unfortunately the crossover is not yet in production so you'd have to make your own. If interested email me at [email protected] an…

Alright guys I have a problem, my Bravox component set's left side tweeter isn't working. Before I took the door apart I switched the RCA's from left to right and the tweeter was still inoperable. Whenever I would hit a bump the tweeter would crackle and turn on then turn off. The tweeter was confirmed working On low power when i put the tweeter on the amp and it worked perfectly. I'm not sure what went wrong with the X-over seeing how I JUST installed and it had been sitting in my closet since i bought them and it hasn't been exposed to any moisture what-so-ever. I purchased them new from the SSA store some time ago.

midbass(6x9"s too he says) highs and it seems the "highs" are sharing airspace with the subs

will we EVER see an LMT driver which is optimized for home theater use? The Tumult 15d2 should have some competition in this area. That said, i would just love to get my hands on an rls-15 and put it in a sealed box with a LT circuit or Bassis unit. If we could only get some good T/S...

tryin to see what 12s would u guys choose to run on a aq2200 @ 1? lookin to spend about $500. this is goin in a 03 impala and i got 5 cubes to play with. lookin mostly for SPL.

Hey guys, first post. I just picked up a 2012 gmc. It needs a system. I want it to out do my four door integra (alpine type s components on Kicker 250.2, DD 1512 in pre fab ported box on 750 watts rms.) I'm thinking two SA 8 v.2, RE XXX6.5 components. I already have the head unit, Sony XAV-63. What do you guys think?

Frankenwoofer aint scared of nothing! First burp Second burp

Okay. The sub system is powered off of 1 JL 500/1. I have already asked you guys about a Dcon setup.. I figure these are my options: 1. I can install my 04S15L7 which is a 2 ohm DVC which I would wire to 4 ohm. This would require that I get an enclosure for it, which would run me in the $200 range. 2. Next is a 12" Dcon in a ported enclosure to spec which would run me about $300-$350. 3. Lastly, I was thinking dual 12" Dcons in a sealed/ported enclosure which would run me about $405-$500. Add another $400 on top of that because their is a big chance I will be get a DC Power alternator during this process. What do you guys think?

Hello guys, I am looking to put together a system with one 10 inch driver in a ported box for my mustang. I am looking for something with around 1500 watts rms, long throw excursion with 30mm or greater xmax. These are the choices that i have found and liked so far: Sundown x10 Sundown z10 Tantric Sounds hd10 I seen some others like ssa xcon 10 but it is still based on the old style basket and spider setup and while it has an xmax of 31mm, Jacob of Sundown said that these older designs reach xmax and xmech at the same time whereas the new styles like the x,z and tantric subs are designed with way more throw built in so over excursion wont damage the woofer to an exten…

I am looking to build a ported box for a pair of rl-i8s. The maximum trunk space I can give up is 37.5x16.5x8.5. Can I build a ported box this small and would these subwoofer be good for this setup? I am also considering useing 2 or 3 Crystal CMP8s. I am looking mostly for SQ but want those extra low tones a ported box can give. Thanks

which one is going to be best for daily ground pounding ??? sorry i do the comparison threds?

Hey all, Im trying to decide what I want to do for my summer sub setup. It will be going in a 1998 Acura 3.5RL, trunk system with about 4ft.^3 after displacement. I will be using around 3500 watts for either setup and dont plan on more power (not looking for number really but that would be nice). Im looking for more of a daily ground pounder with a great low end response that can be brutal when I turn it up. For tuning im planning on 31hz, I listen to mostly chopped and screwed music/r&b/old school and rap. Here are the options, any more questions just ask. Sub Options: 3-10" Fi Q's 2-12" SSA Xcons or DD 3512s 15" AA Mayhem *Electrical will be a DC Power H/O Alternato…

Just had a simple question is it better to do a slot port box or one that uses an aero port