Subwoofers / Speakers

Obviously there is a difference between the... 1) X-15 2) Z V-3 15 3) Z V-4 15 I Know the difference in the V3 and V4 is the generation but i am wondering if anyone can give me any input on differences between how beefy the components are and the general differences between the 3. Maybe you guys can help me decide which one to get. Going to order 2 15's and they are going in the back of a 2008 Jeep Commander. Had 2 FI BTL's. How would 2 of these subs compare to the 2 BTL's i had?

I know its a noob question but: I have a single 12" Fi BL 12 in a 2.5 ft^3 box tuned to around 33 hz or so. Its dual 2 ohm wired to 1 ohm on a SAZ-1500D. I am wondering what 2 of the Skar 12s or 10s in the optimal box would be like in comparison. I know that based on cone area alone, it should be louder. My Fi is so much beefier though. My current box is sealed to the passthrough with port and sub firing into the cabin when the seats are down. Any new box would be the same configuration.

ok, the difference in sound is pretty obvious, but whats the technical difference between making a sq and a spl sub? i mean if all speakers and subs work by the same principles, how is one more accurate than another? just always wondered that , thanks

Im goin to be buying some 10s soon and I was wanting to know what the difference in the 10 inch FI Q and the 10 inch ICONs are? Im looking for a sub that will sound clean and drop low while being loud aswell. I was goin for the AQ HDC3 10 subs at first but I am wanting to meet my expectations running only 2200 rms watts. Not to mention also sounding clean. I know the FI Q and the ICONs are known for their good sq but which one will get louder off 1k rms to each sub?

Is there much of a difference between the mach 5 15" ixl vs the ssa icon 15". I know the mach 5 seems to have a good sound quality and im not really to sure about the ssa icon. If anyone could give me a little more info about them like which one would get louder with a 1000 watt sundown audio amp. Thanks.

alright, so i currently have an 18" nightshade that im getting reconed...i kinda wanna go with a 15 instead to shed some wait off of my car...its slow as shit as it is lol, so im wanting to go a bit smaller. how much output would i lose if i went to a 15. as long as the box is still just as good it shouldn't be a noticable difference right? any help would be great guys. thanx.

Whats the differences and similar features of the Mach 5 IXL 15 and the SSA Icon 15? Which sub would work better for listening to rap, and for someone mainly looking for loudness not sq. Which Sundown amp would be best suited as well.

Really would like a pair of IXL 10s but I'm not liking the D2 coils. Any chance of some D1 or D4s? Sure would make running a pair on the likes of a 1500D more enjoyable. I'm sure they don't need 750 each, but the headroom would be nice.

for the Mach5Audio IXL can you add any other options to add to the power handling? i like the IXL but need about 500 more watts of therm. power handling to add to my SA 3kd

So, is diffraction an issue in car audio as well? I'm thinking both of front systems and sub boxes in particular.

I notice DD audio subwoofers and i wanted to know if anyone knew about em?

I have a 2002 forester looking for a good starting place for box ideas for 2 9515's and what would be better power wise. M4, M4a, DC 5k?

What are some user reviews of the Digital Designs 2500 15"?

i have two hifonics brz1200 i dont know if i should get two 12" digital designs 2500 or 3500 series i would get each sub d2 and wire each sub at 1ohm to its own amp my max box dimensions are 38W X 15H X 22D i want subs + port firing foward, no sealed

I ended up getting a good deal on the Digital Designs component set today so I bought them. 6.5" Mids along with the tweeters, and all x-overs. My question being, does any here have experience with them...how do they perform...and what are your opinions on them? I'd like to get some other peoples opinions on them... I have a Soundstream 4 channel to push them....and my last question being...as long as I sound deaden the doors, will fitting them in the stock location be sufficient for great sound, or do I need to build pods for them....? Thanks for your help in advance..

Does anyone know the actuall physical dimensions of the crossovers for the 302's? Or the 327's for that matter. I have a piar of 302's ordered but am thinking about switching to the 327's if I get am email back from Nick. I am currently beginning work on my amp rack and would like to know the dimensions. Specifically the l x w. Anyone help out here? I know a few of you guys have the 302's. Maybe Sundownz or Nick can throw out the dims for the 327's. Thanks, Jim

A client swung by to drop off his IXL-10's to figure out what went wrong... Needless to say, he will be getting an SPL-15 and looking for an amp that delivers solid output.

what is the displacement of the the MAW-12? tanks

im shure its on here somewhere but i searched and couldnt find it.

What is the displacement of this sub? I heard .40 cubes others are saying .15

I got a sa-8 sub, and the box i haveis made of that * now my question is this ---How far should the distance be from the back of the sub to the front of the port, the sub is 5 1/4 deep and from the back side of the front to the front side of the port i have 5 9/16 -- is 5/16 of a inch enough room for air movment or what should i do the spec is from ssa so Im thinking they know what is best.just asking

Recently I edited some music, and it had a few really low notes. Decided it was about time I moved my high pass up a little from 15hz. Did that and then for some reason decided it was a good idea to reset my gain even though it sounded perfect as is... As I was doing this and I had the gain all the way down and the deck paused, I noticed a fluttering whine coming from my subs. Thought it was a little weird cause I had never noticed it before. I forgot to mark where I had the gain before which was a mistake.. I tried to set the gain with a 40hz tone, but It was hard to tell where It actually started clipping, I was hearing distortion way before I should have. I thought I h…

so i just recently got a 9512 . never been a fan of mtx. been looking at the dcon. looks damn good. think it wise too, sell the 95 and pick a dcon up? oh btw im jake and new to these forums.

I am planning a new build and I want to run an active 3-way set up. I'm new to the whole active thing but have been told by more than a few people that building my own 3-way is the way to go. My available power is 50x2 rms for the tweeters 100x2 rms for the mids 200x2 rms for the midbass I am at a loss when it comes to choosing raw drivers. Any recomendations? Also will the fact that my amps are not made by the same manufacturer affect the sound?Or would I have to be superman to hear a difference?

So...I need new door panels. I figure while I've got those off, I might as well sound deaden the doors. Then, I figure I might as well upgrade my coaxials to components 80wpc to the Boston FX6's just isn't cutting it anymore... My criteria: * 2 ohm impedance preferred. * At 2 ohms stereo, my PG Tantrum 500.2 does 250W/side. * Going to be mounting the tweet in the A-pillar trim...I prefer the sound of silks over metals...at least for all the ones I've auditioned. * The mid is going in the stock door location, with a 6.5" cutout...I don't know the max. mounting depth as of yet, but the FX6's are 2 1/8" inches deep. So that fits without a problem. * I listen to a lot of cla…