Subwoofers / Speakers

The Fi BTL NEO that I ordered has a 2ohm Re rating of 1.8 so wiring in parallel i should be at .9ish ohms before possible box rise and any damping factors. I bought the AA 3800.1D and just purchased a North Star AGM31 for the back. I know my box is built to spec, tuned at 32hz, braced like a champ and stiff as humanly possible...here is my question/concern... I just want to understand as much as i can without getting overly technical on ohm's and voltage vs impedance and it's variance...As a daily listener I'm just looking more about what power I will be feeding this sub while wired to "1" ohm around 13.5v...I just hope I don't fall into some 3 ohm situation after al…

Have a question some of the old-school guys might be able to help out with. A friend of mine has no bass in his 98 Explorer right now. He wants something, but is on a very tight budget. I have had a new pair of old-school 15" MTX ThunderPro 750 watt subs tucked away in my laundry room. The ones with the red rubber surround. Don't ask me how I obtained them. LOL. I offered them up, and of course he accepted. My problem is, even though they are new and still taped up in their original boxes, there was no paperwork/specs with them. Does anyone know anything about these subs? How much box volume do they need? Do they like a sealed or ported enclosure? Etc. Just trying to help…

ok so basically ive been spoiled over the years and had good speakers but i also had a much larger budget to work with earlier in life. i.e. ia death penalty 2nd gen re audio xxx ascendent audio assassins stuff of that nature. well i bought back my old assassins some time back because i loved their sound but they were about 12 years old and finally had enough and the surround fatigued. i already had a nice birch box made and well i couldnt just toss it and i bought some skar audio vvx-3 to fill the holes. well u cant put skars in a box for better speakers and still be in love so im getting rid of them and getting better speakers. dont get me wrong they get loud and p…

Has anyone had alot of coil stuck down in the motor gap before? . . Have a customer that im doing a recone for and almost all of the coil is way down in the gap. . . Just seeing if anyone has any advice on how to get it out . Iv got a little out but just coming out in little pieces . . Its an american bass hd by the way

I need help concerning a recone on my Audiobahn made Dub1200 12in subs. Im not new to car audio but im new to reconing. So please don't tell me hiw bad they are etc. Just practicing recones. Question is will a Sundown SA 12 Recone fit this sub. Audiobahn DUB1200 12" Dub Series 1400 watts peak power handling 700 watts RMS power handling Chrome-Plated Aluminum DUB grill included Wooden gift box included Non-Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Woofer Cone KM3 Coated for virtually no cone distortion Can operate at 2 ohms or 8 ohms depending on wiring configuration Multi-connect lug lock terminals PHAT 2" Foam Surround 2.5…

How can I repair my IDQ 15V1 if the spider partially detached from the landing? Is it time for a recone? Or can I patch it?

Heres the list, I need to narrow it down to one mid woofer and one tweeter pair or maybe none of these at all. First let me go over some requirements and more about what I'm looking for. Seas Prestige ER18RNX 7" Reed/Paper Cone 45-3000Hz, 8 ohm (H1456-08) ($100 or so) Seas Prestige CA18RNX 7" Paper Cone 45-3000Hz, 8 ohm (H1215-08) ($100 or so) Seas Prestige L18RNX/P 7" Aluminum 40-2500Hz, 8 ohm (H1224-08) ($100 or so) Seas Prestige CA18RLY 7" Paper Cone 35-3000Hz, 8 ohm (H1217-08) ($100 or so) Seas Excel W18NX-001 7" Nextel Paper Cone 30-3000Hz, 8 ohm (E0042-08S) ($200 a pop) Seas Excel W18E-001 7" Magnesium Cone 40-2500Hz, 8 ohm (…

Ok guys, I've been on here before and wasn't very helpful. Earned myself a - 70 something rep. Let's change all that and start fresh. I'm gonna do a big ass build in a 02 f250 ext cab. I'm not completely new to car audio but I'm far from pro. Ok, so my goals is to get very very low. I'm looking to do hair tricks and what not. I don't want it to be a one note wonder. I want to be able to play normal music. Meaning not bass boosted or anything but i need to be able to clearly hear the words. Willing to do custom doors and boxes and all that. Gear i can reuse is as follows. Soundqubed comp set,Sundown 50.4, Crescendo bc5500 and a pioneer 80prs. Really what advice …

hey guys im wanting to do a sub setup in my 2012 nissan altima coupe. ive only got about a foot of height to work with in a small odd shaped trunk. im wanting to put in 2 10" dcons. im wanting to go ported but im really looking for some suggestions on what to do with the box since the trunk is very odd shaped. thanks any help is appreciated

Hello folks my name is David and im glad to be new member here. I have 00 s10 extended cab and currently bad subs now lol three yrs later 2-10" re audio sxx d2 in 3.50cubic ft box shared tuned 35hz with mtx 1501d and upgraded electrical system. well since i was low money wise do you think that the soundqubed hds200 10"s would be louder then what i had? considering amp is rated 1500rms@ 2ohms and subs was rated at 1100rms each but the soundqubed hds210 is 600rms each wouldnt it be just as loud or louder considering i would have enought power to push the subs instead of being 250-300rms short of the subs rating rms. I went ahead before this post ordered two of the sq hds210…

So I have had my Evil 15 for about 2 months give or take and love it! I am powering it with a Sundown SCV3000D in a 4.25cuft enclosure tuned to 32hz. I am thinking of increasing my power with an SCV4000D. Will I notice the difference with the increase in power and is it worth it? I also know that I will need to rebuild and go with something on the smaller side but how big should my box be with the increase in power? Any and all help is appreciated!

Selling to customer. 9/10 looks wise. 10/10 functional wise. Has 1 cube ported box too.

Damn. https://m.facebook.com/sundownusa/

my x8's just shut down last night..I checked all wires..amps good..no foul smells from them..no cone scraping sounds...please any advice would help?

So i have a Pioneer GM-D8604 4 channel amplifier. 2 channels are setup to my front component speakers and the other 2 channels are bridged for my subwoofer. heres the specs for my amplifier 4-channel car amplifier 100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) 125 watts RMS x 4 at 1 ohm 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (250 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 2 ohms) Im almost positive that my subwoofer is bridged at 4 ohms. not sure how to tell exactly? any easy way to check? but also, my subwoofer is meant for 4 ohm. so id assume its been wired properly, since it seems to be working fine. and my subwoofer is the rockford fosgat…

ok, going to build a box for my ID8s. going to angle the back to sit flush to my back seat to help save space instead of making a plain square/rectangle shape. problem comes with the port. I attached a real crude drawing I did in paint, the small diagrams are how I think you are supposed to measure port length when the back wall of the box is plumb just like the front of the box. the large one is the way I am guessing you would measure port length when they arent, if its even doable. red is interior port wall blue is point at which I figure Id measure port length. so, whats the verdict?

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Looking for the best option for sound quality loud. forum keeps eediting S Q L Looking for a 10" for a sealed enclosure I have laying around that is .66 cubic feet and will be ran with 500 watts at 2ohm. So far my options what I have found through my research, is there anything else not on my radar? Out of these options what would be best? I might consider a 12" if it will take up less than 1 cubic foot. Image dynamics ID or IDQ SSA dcon or maybe gcon (enough power?) Sundown EV or maybe SA (enough power?) DC level 2 Alpine type s As far as the ID vs IDQ, the ID has a much lower FS, what difference would this make? I want som…

Hello, I recently set out to upgrade my 2015 F-150 xlt with left over parts from my dad's truck after he passed. Well, long story short, half way through the process I realized all of his stuff was crap, or super old. I currently have Alpine Type R 6x9's in the front, and Type R 6.5 coaxials in the rear door, with a Alpine PDX F6 powering those, and I have 2 12" Orion subs from the 90's 400 watt rms, with an Alpine PDX 1000.1 powering them in a sealed down firing box under my rear seats. The box has 1.32 total cu ft. and are 5-1/4" mounting depth. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TOTRB0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 …

Excuse me, When choosing a woofer, size seems be be everything. A 12" sub is better than a 10". A 6.5" woofer is better than a 4". I do understand that the larger the driver the easier it is for it to reproduce lower frequency sound. Can the measure could also be total displacement? Such as a long throw 10" driver can displace more air/space than a short throw 12" driver. I have seen this referred to as the "hit" or the physical impact the body feels. How does driver extension affect the characteristics of sound and performance?

so i have alpine SPR 60 c speakers in front of my car. powered by an amp. the left tweeter produces sound. but it sounds very weak at times, sometimes i can tell more so than others, in certain parts of songs. but sometimes it just sounds lower volume than the right side. sometimes it sounds almost crackly, like something is loose in the tweeter. not sure how to explain how it sounds. but ive noticed it, and done left and right balance to be sure. and theres quite a big difference in the left to right sides. so what can i do? and what should i check? im thinking it might be the wiring or the tweeter is dying? if the amp channel is dying, i wo…

Can anyone give me a design for my ext cab gmc sierra. Dims are 48 W 22 H 24 D. Please guys my current box sux i have 2 fi bl 15's

I'm considering going to a single twelve to get my trunk back, and I'm having a very difficult time deciding on a driver for my application. I like the output of the BTL 18 I have and I am under the impression I can achieve similar output on a smaller driver because I've never even heard the Btl on more than 1500rms. There's a few too many options for me to pick from, I've been spinning in circles. If I'll have 7500rms on tap and anything from 1.5-2.5cu, what would be a woofer capabile of strong authoritative bass? I'm looking at N2/N3 12's, Evil 12's, Team Sundown 12's but I have no clue how to pick one. Each is a significantly different price and I just want to mak…

To start off I would like to say I have had a love hate relationship with my 12" zcon from day one and also noticed from day one that the surround had a soft spot in it but never questioned it cause it seemed to play just fine. It sounds fantastic on a handful of songs but lacks to play a variety of music very well which they claim this woofer to not be a "one note wonder". I know your enclosure has a lot to do with things so I thought maybe the zcon needed a better home so I moved it from 3 cubes @ 30hz to 2.5 cubes @ 32hz. The new box made a big difference but after having it in its new home for a while I still had a love hate relationship and found it lacking on a lot …

Hello once again! I've had my eyes drooling (yes this makes no sense but roll with it) over a component set of JBL 670 GTi's. Though I ran into a problem. With my knowledge only beginning to spark in the car audio field I've been using Crutchfield as almost a cheat sheet in finding if something fits my vehicle, and they said this set would not, as well did the JBL site. Though their reasoning was only that the depth of the speaker was slightly off (refer to picture). Is this an easy to fix problem?? Or has the pooch been screwed?? Thank you to anyone who replies!