Subwoofers / Speakers

Can i use 2 1/2 dry wall screws to mount my sub in the box? Does it matter what line driver you use? Last question, will any RCA's work, if there cheap or not?

i wanted to know if a 3 1/4 bullet tweeter would fit in a 3 1/2 speaker opening in my dash. right now i have infinity 3 1/2 coaxial speakers and i thought the bullet tweeters might be louder. i was looking at the boss audio 3" and a few others . the depth of the openiing is 2 inches

I just picked up a set a focal components and was wondering what the seasoned guys on here would suggest. My problem is i dont have room to build large pods outside the doors to house the 6.5. Could i use like a 6 inch pvc pipe and seal up the back side of it and glass up a front baffle to mount to the door skin at the factory location. I have about 7 inches between the outer and inner door skins and no window interference. I want the best sound out of these without building pods outside the door panel. Is this going to be enought volume or should i go a different route. Thanks guys.

so im new here but not to forums Bigbill035 at roe! and i was wondering if a ssd 15 would get more spl and better sq than a SA-15 im going to run it off a 1600d hifonix. im going to make a box at 4 cubes probably around 33hz and its going into a caddy fleetwood then to a eldorado when i get the front axel fixed. any answers or input will be appreciated thnx in advance. ~Bill

Hey guys, i've been thinking about upgrading to a different sub, but i cant decide what i want. Right now i have a SSD 12, which i am very happy with sq wise, and it does get decently loud, but not as loud as i would like. Im looking to stay with the 1 12 set up, or possibly 1 15, so what would you guys say would be a good choice to get as loud as possible. I've been thinking maybe a BL or something similar. I would like to keep the price around 400 or under. Thanks.

ok so i have a 2002 Grand Prix GTP and i am woundering what you all think would be louder... a single 15 inch death penalty or 2 12 inch Sa 12s... 15 ported at about 27htz and the 12s bout 32htz open to any suggestions. thank you in advanced. i have a sundown SAE-1200 DV2 and i have the big 3 done...

What's up folks I'm about to buy 2 Fi Bl 15's fully loaded I'm wanting to know whats the most power they can handle daily because I have a Memphis mojo 4000 & I personally don't like just doing rms power that's why I chose this subwoofer & not the btl series. Your responses are greatly appreciated.

Sorry in advance for the stupid questions... I've had my ICON 12" D2 for a week today after owning an Orion 12D for 15 years. I've been playing with it very much. (Review to follow) BUT Yesterday, I changed my speaker wire from 14AWG (regular speaker wire) to 10AWG (Oxygen Free) cable. My questions is: Could this make my sub play louder and harder? I'm running it a 1ohm driven by a Orion 1200D amp. I had to turn down my gain a little cause I found it louder than with the 14 gauge wire. Am I hallucinating? Can it be that much louder? Could it make a difference? I know I'm 46 Years old but c'mon! I changed the wire cause I read somewhere that running on 1 ohm you should use…

So I've heard some amazing things about this sub and willing to plunge into if you guys can agree and give some advice... Review Info I've found: DIYMA Caraudio.com Current sub amp is a Kenwood KAC-X810d - I believe these stats are: 12v output : 300w @ 4ohms or 600w @ 2ohms 14v output : 400w @ 4ohms or 800w @ 2ohms I used to have a dual bandpass setup with 2 10" JLs and feel I've outgrown the boomy sound and low sq... w3 version of the JL sub btw... I am looking at the SSA Dcon 12" and was wondering if it can take the 600w daily because this is my ride to work... If so I would purchase the Dual 4ohm version and run the amp at 2ohms knowing fully that I might not…

I've tried looking on their website, but it only says "N/A". Would anyone know the Specs? to build a custom 33hz box? My local car audio shop needs to know the specs before they build the box. Thank You EDIT: Driver 21 Inch MSRP $799 FS N/A Re 4 ohm series Qms N/A Qes N/A Qts N/A Mms N/A Cms N/A Sd N/A Vas N/A Spl N/A BL N/A X-max N/A Sub Diameter 21 1/4 inches Mounting 19 1/4 inches Mounting Depth 11 7/8 inches Driver Displacement .26 cubic ft/ Power 1500 Wrms / 3000 Peak Driver 21 Inch MSRP $799

hey does anyone know where to find some grills for a set of 5.25" components i'm looking for some fancy grills not just the mesh but having a hard time finding some??

So I've seen a ton of videos featuring hair tricks and I figured it'd be cool to see if my system can pull it off..Only problem is that I'm clueless how to go about it. Obviously someone with long hair is needed. I'm not sure what song would be best, or what window for that matter... Any tips for me? Is it pretty much just trial and error? Any reason my system wouldn't be able to hair trick? Does hairspray\hairgel have a negative impact on it?

alright im looking to get 2 18''s im working with a crossfire xp2400, and up to 18cf i want it to be good quality and loud n low 28-30hz...im thinking the best subs would be 2 XCONs. anyone have any suggestions??? or are these the right ones:) ty for the help!!!

I'm looking to get either 1 18 or 2 15's. I know most of you are going to say 2 15's!!!! But I don't want to spend too much money, ($500) Right now I'm looking at 2 15" Planet Audio Big Bangs, I don't remember the model number but they say 1500 rms a piece. Or i'm looking at like a DC Level 5, Nightshade, or a BTL all 18" I have 3k and 6 cubic feet to play with. What do you guys suggest. I'm open to new ideas too. but thats my power, budget, and room

Ok guys, here's my situation . I'm running 1 18" btl with a saz-1500.... I'll be upgrading the sub amp soon. But I have stock speakers right now an they're not cutting it whatsoever. So I picked up an alpine pdx 100.4 for a good ass price. I also ordered a 4 channel 4 ga knukonceptz flex amp kit And I'm looking into a componet set or just speakers. Sizes that will fit in my car are 5-1/4 and 6-3/4. My price range is like 200-250 bucks for speakers. So I was looking into type r componets and my question is, could I run just a type r component set up front with crossovers and just two type r speakers w/o crossovers in the back? Also im wondering if i could run just 4 type …

i have been with out subs for sometime now and i am looking to find some 8"s. The last subs i had was some RE 15"s in a ported box. i liked them but wanted my back seat back. what i am looking at is the RE 8"s. looking to have them ported but need some help with a box also. if anyone would like to give there 2 cents feel free thank you also looking for a good 5 channel amp to push the 8"s and 2 sets of 6.5 components.

Once again this might be a dumb question ... I think I am mostly just confirming what I already know: I am piecing together components for a new system in my VW CC. I plan on getting the Image Dynamic CTX65CS comps rated at 100w RMS - 200w MAX. I was also planning on the new Kenwood 5 channel amp which put out 80w RMS - 150w MAX. Perfect for the ID comps I thought. I recently did learn about the ZED Leviathan 6 channel amp. This amp looks awesome! Although I am on a budget, it looks very worthwhile to spend a bit extra and get this amp over the Kenwood. The Zed amp is rated at 150w RMS. Don't know what the MAX power is on the ZED. BTW anyone know what the bridged power i…

i checked the coils and they both read 2.1 and 2.2 ohms. its a dual 2 ohm sub ive tried push in on the sub and out and dont hear a thing checked the tinsil leads looked at the cone its self and i dont know what it is... i asked about it in another topic i had going but i felt this need its own post because im sure others have had the same problem. any suggestions on what to do before i send it in for a recone should i take it apart myself first or what help me out

would it be a good deal to buy a re mx 18 that has one bad coil for 100 cash. ive got a quote on a recone of 182 but shipping will be another 60 there and back. what do you all think

So I was told not to open the back hatch\tailgate in my Tahoe while my subs are playing (in a ported enclosure)..Something about it bottoming them out? Is this true, and if so why do I see videos of people doing it to put paper or other items in front of their port?

Hey guys..im having a little trouble with my sub right now..right when i start the car up, everything is fine..but after a little while it seems like the sub gets quieter. Sometimes it will play normal for 5-10 mins, and sometimes it will only last for a minute of less. I have no idea what could be causing this. Anyone have an idea?

I am going for a SQ setup and I am going to be doing this in a Dodge ram crew cab. My question is, would you put one really good set of components up front and leave the rears stock or would you put a good set of components up front and a good set of coaxials in the rear? The price would be pretty much the same. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Ok so i blew 2 alpine type r 12s dual 4 ohm ran at one ohm to a sae-1200d and now i am looking to replace them.... i have a 2002 grand prix and am looking into buying a 15... i was thinking a night shade or incriminator audio... maybe an xcon... i am looking for as loud as a woofer as poss. i have bout 500 dollors to work with... any sugestions are always welcomed

Hey guys i'm playing with kerf port design. But i'm clueless on how big the kerf needs be, compared to the size of the port. The port i'm using is 2.5 x 37.5. Should the kerf be the the same size as the port width or half the port width? Here is the design so everyone can see how i'm tring to get the kerf.

how much battery do i need for a 1500w rms amp? what about if i bridged two amps so 3000w rms? will one kinetic hc2400 cut it?