Subwoofers / Speakers

Sorry in advance for the stupid questions... I've had my ICON 12" D2 for a week today after owning an Orion 12D for 15 years. I've been playing with it very much. (Review to follow) BUT Yesterday, I changed my speaker wire from 14AWG (regular speaker wire) to 10AWG (Oxygen Free) cable. My questions is: Could this make my sub play louder and harder? I'm running it a 1ohm driven by a Orion 1200D amp. I had to turn down my gain a little cause I found it louder than with the 14 gauge wire. Am I hallucinating? Can it be that much louder? Could it make a difference? I know I'm 46 Years old but c'mon! I changed the wire cause I read somewhere that running on 1 ohm you should use…

So I've heard some amazing things about this sub and willing to plunge into if you guys can agree and give some advice... Review Info I've found: DIYMA Caraudio.com Current sub amp is a Kenwood KAC-X810d - I believe these stats are: 12v output : 300w @ 4ohms or 600w @ 2ohms 14v output : 400w @ 4ohms or 800w @ 2ohms I used to have a dual bandpass setup with 2 10" JLs and feel I've outgrown the boomy sound and low sq... w3 version of the JL sub btw... I am looking at the SSA Dcon 12" and was wondering if it can take the 600w daily because this is my ride to work... If so I would purchase the Dual 4ohm version and run the amp at 2ohms knowing fully that I might not…

When I originally heard the IB3 18's Xmech was "shortly after its 30mm Xmax" I assumed maybe it was 31mm-33mm. So when I heard the IB3 22 was going to have a 38mm Xmax and 96% of the Vd of two IB3 18's, I thought the 22" was going to have a lot more Mechanical clearance than the 18's. But the 22's are going to have the same profile surrounds as the 18's, so the same or similar 41mm - 42mm Xmech. I'm not going to be able to replace my 18's with the 22's. At 8 ohms I already have to be careful to avoid over excursion. I planned on running 8 ohms for the 18's for safety, but 4 ohms for the 22's. The 22" isn't going to work. I'm probably going to have to order a 2nd pair of 1…

I've tried looking on their website, but it only says "N/A". Would anyone know the Specs? to build a custom 33hz box? My local car audio shop needs to know the specs before they build the box. Thank You EDIT: Driver 21 Inch MSRP $799 FS N/A Re 4 ohm series Qms N/A Qes N/A Qts N/A Mms N/A Cms N/A Sd N/A Vas N/A Spl N/A BL N/A X-max N/A Sub Diameter 21 1/4 inches Mounting 19 1/4 inches Mounting Depth 11 7/8 inches Driver Displacement .26 cubic ft/ Power 1500 Wrms / 3000 Peak Driver 21 Inch MSRP $799

hey does anyone know where to find some grills for a set of 5.25" components i'm looking for some fancy grills not just the mesh but having a hard time finding some??

I'm looking to get either 1 18 or 2 15's. I know most of you are going to say 2 15's!!!! But I don't want to spend too much money, ($500) Right now I'm looking at 2 15" Planet Audio Big Bangs, I don't remember the model number but they say 1500 rms a piece. Or i'm looking at like a DC Level 5, Nightshade, or a BTL all 18" I have 3k and 6 cubic feet to play with. What do you guys suggest. I'm open to new ideas too. but thats my power, budget, and room

i checked the coils and they both read 2.1 and 2.2 ohms. its a dual 2 ohm sub ive tried push in on the sub and out and dont hear a thing checked the tinsil leads looked at the cone its self and i dont know what it is... i asked about it in another topic i had going but i felt this need its own post because im sure others have had the same problem. any suggestions on what to do before i send it in for a recone should i take it apart myself first or what help me out

alright im looking to get 2 18''s im working with a crossfire xp2400, and up to 18cf i want it to be good quality and loud n low 28-30hz...im thinking the best subs would be 2 XCONs. anyone have any suggestions??? or are these the right ones:) ty for the help!!!

I would like suggestions for some 8" mid-bass drivers that can easily keep up with my 15" xcon. I would prefer the cost to stay under $150. And to just let you know, I love mid-bass just as much as deep bass. I mean the mid-bass you can feel in your chest. From the 60-120hz range is what I need these to cover. Thanks

Hello all...my 1st post here... Just wanted to share some excitment in my audio world... I have had a little mishap with my 15 year old SUB. Orion 12D. She no longer works... So I have ordered a ICON 12" form Marc a SSA (what a great guy!!!) He suggested I go with an ICON as I wanted an XCON. I trust his opinion totally so I ordered it. Here's what my setup looks like: ... This of course is my car... The trunk liner removed The spare and accessories now gone... The preparation of the 1" wood flooring The box finished... How it fits in the trunk The amp and carpet installed in the back The sub box installed with the side pieces installed on a hinge so I can fold the…

Ok guys, here's my situation . I'm running 1 18" btl with a saz-1500.... I'll be upgrading the sub amp soon. But I have stock speakers right now an they're not cutting it whatsoever. So I picked up an alpine pdx 100.4 for a good ass price. I also ordered a 4 channel 4 ga knukonceptz flex amp kit And I'm looking into a componet set or just speakers. Sizes that will fit in my car are 5-1/4 and 6-3/4. My price range is like 200-250 bucks for speakers. So I was looking into type r componets and my question is, could I run just a type r component set up front with crossovers and just two type r speakers w/o crossovers in the back? Also im wondering if i could run just 4 type …

would it be a good deal to buy a re mx 18 that has one bad coil for 100 cash. ive got a quote on a recone of 182 but shipping will be another 60 there and back. what do you all think

i have been with out subs for sometime now and i am looking to find some 8"s. The last subs i had was some RE 15"s in a ported box. i liked them but wanted my back seat back. what i am looking at is the RE 8"s. looking to have them ported but need some help with a box also. if anyone would like to give there 2 cents feel free thank you also looking for a good 5 channel amp to push the 8"s and 2 sets of 6.5 components.

Once again this might be a dumb question ... I think I am mostly just confirming what I already know: I am piecing together components for a new system in my VW CC. I plan on getting the Image Dynamic CTX65CS comps rated at 100w RMS - 200w MAX. I was also planning on the new Kenwood 5 channel amp which put out 80w RMS - 150w MAX. Perfect for the ID comps I thought. I recently did learn about the ZED Leviathan 6 channel amp. This amp looks awesome! Although I am on a budget, it looks very worthwhile to spend a bit extra and get this amp over the Kenwood. The Zed amp is rated at 150w RMS. Don't know what the MAX power is on the ZED. BTW anyone know what the bridged power i…

I’m looking for a bit of knowledge from the bright minds on the forum which is all of you guys since I’m sure you all have a great amount of help you can provide me with. I have an 1998 Chevy Blazer I currently am using two Alpine Type-R twelve’s but want to start building a system leaning toward better SQ. I know the basics about how I want to hook it up but looking forward to some advice on a few components. I am fitting four six and a halves in the doors and two tweeters I am thinking of going from my twelve’s to ten’s for a little better response. From what I see there are a few brands that look good from JL, Focal, Cadence, Seas, Alpine, etc. Now for the subs I w…

I cooked the voice coil in one of my Aura 10 inch midbass drivers So now I need to replace them with something more heavy duty. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/aurasound/NS10-513-4A.pdf I know the t/s parameters should tell me which driver should be a good candidate but don't understand all of them to the fullest yet, SO this is where I am asking for help. The Drivers will be mounted in my doors IB and will be getting 300 watts RMS. They will be bandpassed 50hz to 400hz, give or take whatever it takes to blend them. Based on my installation I ASSUME that I need a driver with a total Q value of around .35? I ASSUME that because I burnt the voice coil in the Aura I s…

Hi guys. I currently am running a single Alpine SWX-1242D with a pdx 1.1000 in a 2.25 - 2.5 cubic foot enclosure in the back of my Hummer. I csn't remember what it is tuned to, as I got the design off of a forum a couple years ago. Unfortunately I haven't been able to get the ouput I want. I am not sure why, but there just doesn't seem to be enough bass. My input source is a Mac mini running to an Alpine PXE 650 with the Ant EQ, which has 4 volt pre outs. I also run a stock batt, with a yellow top optima in the back. Stock alternator and all power And grounds are 0 gauge welding cable. So since I can't firgure out the problem other than the box may not be right, …

Hey guys i'm playing with kerf port design. But i'm clueless on how big the kerf needs be, compared to the size of the port. The port i'm using is 2.5 x 37.5. Should the kerf be the the same size as the port width or half the port width? Here is the design so everyone can see how i'm tring to get the kerf.

So I was told not to open the back hatch\tailgate in my Tahoe while my subs are playing (in a ported enclosure)..Something about it bottoming them out? Is this true, and if so why do I see videos of people doing it to put paper or other items in front of their port?

Hey guys..im having a little trouble with my sub right now..right when i start the car up, everything is fine..but after a little while it seems like the sub gets quieter. Sometimes it will play normal for 5-10 mins, and sometimes it will only last for a minute of less. I have no idea what could be causing this. Anyone have an idea?

I am going for a SQ setup and I am going to be doing this in a Dodge ram crew cab. My question is, would you put one really good set of components up front and leave the rears stock or would you put a good set of components up front and a good set of coaxials in the rear? The price would be pretty much the same. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Ok so i blew 2 alpine type r 12s dual 4 ohm ran at one ohm to a sae-1200d and now i am looking to replace them.... i have a 2002 grand prix and am looking into buying a 15... i was thinking a night shade or incriminator audio... maybe an xcon... i am looking for as loud as a woofer as poss. i have bout 500 dollors to work with... any sugestions are always welcomed

how much battery do i need for a 1500w rms amp? what about if i bridged two amps so 3000w rms? will one kinetic hc2400 cut it?

I just bought a used Sundown Saz-1500d. For the moment I will be running it at 2 ohms with my dual 4 ohm voice coil DD2510. Within the next two paychecks, I wanna get something that will take the full 1 ohm power of the 1500. I am leaning towards a 15", but a couple of 12"s could be cool also. Just as long as I can wire to 1 ohm and get the full 1500 or so watts. -This is a daily driver, but if I can potentially get loud enough, I would maybe compete in street beat or similar. -budget is a $350 ish (used or new). less would be nice. -before installing the amp, I'm adding a yellow top in the trunk and one run of 1/0 for it. as well as big 3.

Hi all.Im wanting to replace my 2 type r 15's with 1 18 or maybe 2 different 15's.I would like to just have 1 18 so I was wondering what would be a good 18 to replace my 2 15's?Right now I have a clarion CZ 200 head unit, and a Autotek 1500 Street Machine amp.My car is a 1977 oldsmobile Delta 88 and my subs are in the trunk and thats where the 18 would go also.I was thinking about the FI BL 18" sub.Im not real familar with any other brands so any suggestions would be appreciated.Thanks. EDIT: Forgot to mention I would like the single 18 to be louder than the 2 15's