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That’s a great explanation and really helps people understand the difference between how pro audio speakers and regular coaxial ones perform. I’ve used PRV speakers myself, and tuning them right makes a big difference. You are absolutely right about not pushing them to play outside their natural range because it keeps the sound much cleaner. I’ve been testing a few setups lately, including some marine boat speakers, and the same principle applies there too. When you match the right crossover points and balance your midbass and mids properly, the sound becomes more natural and powerful without distortion. I would definitely like to see that in-depth write-up you mentioned since it would help a lot of people who are trying to build a balanced sound system.

First, check how much power your amplifier gives per channel at 4 ohms because that tells you how much power each speaker will get. If your amp is 300 watts total, it’s probably giving around 150 watts per channel. When you connect two speakers to one channel, each one will get about half of that power, around 75 watts each. So you should look for speakers rated close to that, around 75 to 100 watts RMS, so they can handle the power safely without distortion. If you’re not sure how the speakers are wired, remember that wiring them in parallel will lower the resistance and draw more power, while wiring them in series will raise it and reduce power. For the best sound and safety, try to match the speaker power handling to what each channel of your amp can provide.

Evening fam

Welcome, looking forward to build pictures.

Im new to the group and just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Christian I live in Greenfield Massachusetts, I work as an extrusion operator at Mativ International and go to school at Full Sail University for Audio Production. I am currently building my fiancés car with a SSA Zcon. Hope you guys have a great day. Thanks, Christian

Checking in!

bump

ihop is still here.

Which profile info in particular?

Also can you take a look at the Optional Profile Information Some of it is VERY dated now

Got it twice ... Also I recommend everyone change their password if they are going to be on here again. Google recommends it

Just curious if you guys got the newsletter about the forum upgrade.

And another one.

Just curious, how everyone who has one, is liking theirs.

How did this turn out?

Yes sir!!

Finally had some time to mess with the software and the lack of function the previous version had. Sorry for the delays.

More pictures of everything done. The center channel sits right below the TV.

They are a pro audio company that has been around for decades. The 6174 was one of the first true pro audio subwoofers. Once the Aura Sound NRT came on the scene, it sort of dethroned the 6174, but more in sheer output. I don't know of too many other drivers available to this day that are as efficiency as a 6174 on the last octave, if enclosure size isn't a concern.

i work at a shop and have a customer who wanted to buy a large power amp. none of our main dealers have anything in his wattage range. so.. down for sound has a JP53 that calls for 600 amps of fusing... then we have a tara amp thats calling for 209 (music) 419 amps sine. both claiming 5KW of power. 120 - 390 amps of difference is (any way you slice it) a massive change in electrical system demand. why would anyone buy a ...? is tara incorrect? bottom line - im digging into efficiency numbers that ive never really had to care much about when working with 500-1500w JL and rockford amps...

Hello all I have a 2015 Silverado crew cab and I finally have the funding to play a little my goal is to have a 5k amp and 2 15s subs in ported box, the whole back cab will be sacrificed. I need to know if a 250a alt and a good batt would be sufficient for what I’m looking for or maybe that and an extra batt? Also I keep reading about this donut deal on my negative battery cable that regulates alt voltage, and that it’s a pain to get around? I haven’t dug too deep into it, but i wanted to start with at least a big 3. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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I've had my subwoofer installed for just over 2 years now with no issues. Now when I start my car (No music playing) The power light on my bass knob flashes and I can hear my subwoofer slightly thumping. I've checked the ground and the power cables but can't figure out what causing it. The clipping light doesn't flash red, just the power light. I attached a video of this. You cant hear the thumping because its very low. The amp I'm using is a Sundown SAZ 1500D and I'm using the bass knob that came with that amp. This issue will happen almost every time I start my car but last week it stopped for about 4 days and now its back and even worse than it was before. Bass Knob Flash.mp4

We all start somehwere, and learn as we go. I have plenty of projects, I go back to, and and wonder what the fuck I was doing.