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Section's been her for 3 days and no intros. For Shame. I'd like to see intro's and stats on your members.

Thanks guys for all the support -- this month has been the best in our history for sales. I appreciate all the continued business and support ! To celebrate I may put some things on sale for March

This. OP, remember Hoffman's Iron Law: "You can have low end extension, high efficiency, or small enclosure size. Pick two." If you want to dig deep, a large sealed box, with a low Fs/mid Qts driver may be the ticket. Infinite Baffle would definitely another way to go. Also, "tight kick drums" are a function of your midbass speakers

Any alignment can do both, just requires that you choose the size and box parameters to match your goals. Of course you will need a driver that is appropriate for the box, but that should go without saying.

My choice fell on a RE XXX-18... The RL-p 18's wasn't in stock at that time, and I had a chance to try something new at a reasonable price. You could have tried the ssa xcon 18" !

You must first determine what panels are resonating, There are many ways to stop a panel fron resonating. Any time you can brace something you are effectly Making that panel unable to carry the inertia of motion. If you can put a 2x4 on edge or angle iron as a center support on the back wall you will effectively cut the panel in half. changing the panels inertia, may I add more effectivly than probly 5 layers of dampener. I also use expanding foam to hold panels STILL, where possible. Do you need do cover your WHOLE truck? NO in a short awsner. I would start by working on the worst areas first, AFTER all the bracing you can engineer. Remember a panel does not need to be covered, the dampener is like the 2x4 brace, in stop's the said inertia in the MIDDLE of the panel.

I have 4 10" Dcons and Im loving them. You wont be disappointed. Infact I ran short on space.... couldn't fit a bigger box through the opening but I still managed to get toward the "optimum recommended enclosure size". These subs are awesome. I keep putting off making a video and I really owe it to you guys so I will definitely try to get some pictures and a couple videos up soon. (I believe someone told me if I have some nice pics I might be put on the site and that'd be sick )

Really nothing unusual there. There are a few possible explanations. First, your ear is more sensitive to sound at ~65hz than it is at ~35hz. A sound or tone at ~65hz may be perceived as louder to your ear than a sound or tone at ~35hz even though the actual SPL (as would be measured by a microphone) of the ~65hz tone is lower than the ~35hz tone. SPL competitors are well accustomed to this, and is the reason the experienced competitors will tell you that what is louder to the ear won't necessarily be louder on the mic. This effect has been studied and is known as the Equal Loudness Contour. As you can see from the graph, a 35hz tone requires approximately 10db higher SPL to sound equally loud as a 65hz tone to the ear. Second, just because the enclosure is tuned to 35hz doesn't necessarily indicate there will be a peak in the output at that frequency. Depending on the parameters of the sub and how it responds in the enclosure you have it in, it's possible the output is actually lower at 35hz than it is at 65hz. It's also possible that the output from the subwoofer is pretty equivalent at 35hz and 65hz and you are simply experiencing effects of #1 above and #3 below. Third, I'm not sure where you have the enclosure located or the specifics of the room, but you may be experiencing the effects of some room nodes which will affect the frequency response from various listening positions. While rooms in a house don't have the "cabin gain" that we experience in car audio, there will be locations in the room where the sound waves have constructive and destructive interference which will affect the frequency response. Well, yes, if you lowpassed the subwoofer and that lowpass filter attenuated 64hz you could of course make it sound less loud than 35hz. However, that's not the mechanism(s) causing what you are experiencing.

The only benefit to wiring to a certain ohm load is to get more power from your amp, usually most amps do more power at 1 ohms than 2 ohms and so forth. So what ever amp you get you need to match your sub up with it, if you get a D1 sub (you can wire it to 0.5 or 2 ohms), if you get a D2 sub (you can wire it to 1 and 4 ohms) and if you get a D4 sub (you can wire it to 2 or 8 ohms). Go to www.the12volt.com and play with subwoofer wiring configuration. Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams

Yeah i have removed the ground wire before and it wasnt a problem and hasnt been for years that I know of, never damaged an amp or anything else by removing the ground first and then putting it back.

-1 rep for you, lets try some civility next time eh? I dont think he deserved that -1, read the very first post.. the guy asked to be called a dumbass.

Hey dumb ass go here www.dcsoundlab.com, just contact rusty @ [email protected] or call him, 1-775-425-5700.

-1 rep for you, lets try some civility next time eh?

When it comes to reading specs, they really aren't basically the same so a coin toss wouldn't solve much, I would I go with the DC Level 4 for its higher excursion capability, and they get nice and low. Looking at their site.. DC'S... I would be worried about some copyright infringement or something a long those lines since their logo looks a lot... a lot... like DC Shoe Company's but that really doesn't have anything to do with you.

The metal the coil is made of does not determine the enclosure it will work in.

Click ! Little bit more than 1000w, but you will want a bigger battery with 1000w anyway.

I guess you didnt read anything he said, he would like to keep it under 1000 watts. Does that $1200 budget apply to subs, amp, box, wiring, electrical upgrades or just subs and amps? AND? With $1200 he could buy a battery which he would probably need with 1,000w. Whats your point?